SPDIF to Analog converter.
Jamie
SPDIF to analog converter because My LCD TV only has
SPDIF for audio output, my new Home theater only has
LINE inputs (stereo) but does have digital output? (go figure).
I would like one that passes the 5.1 signal, so that my
surround system will process it.
Those I have found, seem to indicate this 5.1 signal is
filtered out?
Adrian C
> This isn't a repair question how ever, I need a
> SPDIF to analog converter because My LCD TV only has
> SPDIF for audio output, my new Home theater only has
> LINE inputs (stereo) but does have digital output? (go figure).
>
> I would like one that passes the 5.1 signal, so that my
> surround system will process it.
Your surround system is Pro Logic or something earlier. Replace it.
--
Adrian C
Jamie
Actually, its not that early, I just got it(New)!
It was a gift so it's not like an easy return.,,.
It has USB, SD card options, HDMI outputs, Component outputs and LINE
input . Along with a COAX digital programmable output!.
it just does not have a SPDIF input on it. and the TV does not have
the analog line output..
It does have how ever, a head jack (stereo) output which I am
wondering if that carries the 5.1 signal ?
admittedly, it's a cheap system..
1000Watts Colby. But, since it was free, I'd like to
get the TV piped into it.
Dori
What? Huh? If you want 5.1 signal then you need a Dolby Digital decoder
built into the receiver itself. They have SPDIF to analog converters but
those faggots will only covert a uncompressed stereo stream into line
level but will probably ingore the dolby digital stream if your lucky.
Since your Home Theater is new, take the dicksucker back and exchange it
for something that has a Dolby Digital input.
Also you didn't specify if the digital output is Optical or Coaxial.
SPDIF is the data flowing through the motherfucker, not the connector
itself. SPDIF does not support 5.1 surround sound, it only supports
stereo sound.
Dori
>
> It was a gift so it's not like an easy return.,,.
>
> It has USB, SD card options, HDMI outputs, Component outputs and LINE
> input . Along with a COAX digital programmable output!.
>
to a real surround system to play the USB and SD Card through it.
> it just does not have a SPDIF input on it. and the TV does not have
> the analog line output..
> It does have how ever, a head jack (stereo) output which I am
> wondering if that carries the 5.1 signal ?
>
No, and neither will the SPDIF because SPDIF is stereo only. You're
confusing SPDIF with Dolby Digital. They are not the same thing.
> admittedly, it's a cheap system..
>
> 1000Watts Colby. But, since it was free, I'd like to
> get the TV piped into it.
>
Then you have nothing to lose by taking the faggot out to the back yard
and beating it to death with a sledgehammer.
You can use the headphone jack but you're only going to get stereo
sound, not surround. It sounds like you would only get stereo out the
digital output because like I said, SPDIF is stereo, not surround sound.
SPDIF is the protocol flowing through the cable, not the connectors on
the cable.
Robert Macy
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
> Adrian C wrote:
> > Jamie wrote:
>
> >> This isn't a repair question how ever, I need a
> >> SPDIF to analog converter because My LCD TV only has
> >> SPDIF for audio output, my new Home theater only has
> >> LINE inputs (stereo) but does have digital output? (go figure).
>
> >> I would like one that passes the 5.1 signal, so that my
> >> surround system will process it.
>
>
> Actually, its not that early, I just got it(New)!
>
>
> It has USB, SD card options, HDMI outputs, Component outputs and LINE
> input . Along with a COAX digital programmable output!.
>
> the analog line output..
> It does have how ever, a head jack (stereo) output which I am
> wondering if that carries the 5.1 signal ?
>
>
> 1000Watts Colby. But, since it was free, I'd like to
> get the TV piped into it.
Don't know if this will work:
Will a Creative Labs EMU1212 convert for you?
It has 24 bit SPDIF port built in and they cost $100 to $200
From experience using them, that 24 bits is REAL, well, at least 23 of
it.
I'm not associated with Creative Labs, or gain from their sales.
Originally I have evaluated the performance of both the EMU0404 and
the EMU1212 and started using their products when the 1212 exceeded
performance of my $3,500 Data Acquisition system! Since then, have
used the 1212 several times in different projects.
Robert
William Sommerwerck
AZ Nomad
>Dori, your pointless use of nasty/vulgar language is not appreciated.
Oh, you poor baby!
William Sommerwerck
>> is not appreciated.
> Oh, you poor baby!
He or she is doing it for the sake of doing it. And if he/she used the N
word or the K word, he/she would be quickly struck down by the group.
Dori
O.K. My Mistake, the O.P. should plug the HDMI output from his TV to the
HDMI output on his HTIB and enjoy all the Dolby Digital UNCOMPRESSED!
Surround Sound there is.
Of course I'm lying. He wants to get the HTIB to do something it wasn't
designed to do. That is, decode a 5.1 Dolby Digital stream via external
source. The HTIB was obviously made for DVD viewing and decoding the
surround sound stream from DVD players.
Even if they made a box which would decode 5.1 channels how would he
feed it to the surround sound system which more than likely doesn't have
the 5 channel and 1 low frequency inputs?
The solution is that he needs to buy an entirely new surround sound system.
Dave Plowman (News)
What 5.1 signal comes from a TV? Just curious.
--
*Starfishes have no brains *
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Adrian C
> On Wed, 23 Sep 2009 17:59:51 +0100, Adrian C
>>>
>>> I would like one that passes the 5.1 signal, so that my
>>> surround system will process it.
>> Your surround system is Pro Logic or something earlier. Replace it.
>
> years should have a digital input.
Since Jamie has broken the cardinal rule of not supplying model numbers
we haven't a clue what on earth he has.
However, if the surround setup is some sort of cheep and cheery
integrated system that includes a built-in DVD player, then there is a
chance it may not include an input for Dolby Digital/DTS carried over
S/PDIF type connections, to connect his TV.
Should that TV have a standard analog stereo output which will include
the original Dolby Surround information from the transmitted film
soundtracks. Maybe there might be smarts inside the surround system to
process that as Pro Logic. Dunno. No model number.
If the system Pro Logic capable, and line level analog stereo audio is
not available on the TV, I think Jamie should be capable, as someone who
has an FCC radio ticket, of wielding a soldering iron and sorting that
out. Or padding down the headphone output.
Or buying a better (and 5.1/7.1) home theatre system based around a
separate amplifier/receiver, and using the digital connection.
--
Adrian C
Jamie
into the surround. It properly decodes the 5.1 just fine.. !.
I don't know where you're getting this idea from.
The line inputs of my new home Theater does decode properly when
I use a smaller LCD TV I have that just happens to have analog line out
on it. So I know the system works as it should.
I just need to convert this signal from the coax digital with out
great pain.
Jamie
I tried the head phone output, that does work also how ever, I need to
pass that through a impedance match amp to properly match that.. It just
does not have the volume level needed, but does work. I may resort to
that since that is a simple project I can through together.
I know this system is a cheapy, but it was a gift. And yes, it's an
integrated system..
I could just simply give it away to my kid how ever, he has the same
tv and it wouldn't work either..
This unit is sold as a Colby 1000Watt system. And take my word for it.
the 1000Watt is a full out lie!.
You don't need to be an electrical engineer to quickly discover this
when you examine the AC mains max demand that is labeled on the device!.
boardjunkie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
> 1000Watts Colby. But, since it was free, I'd like to
> get the TV piped into it.
Coby. 1000w my ass.
http://www.nextdaypc.com/main/products/details.aspx?PID=4435165&rsmainid=ND0130014
Look like that? It is what it is.....
Jamie
Yes, its close to it. The one I have has all of that plus it
as a USB and SD card reader in the back. Maybe this one also has
it but just doesn't state it.
And of course, the Wattage is a big fat lie!..
They must be using some metric other than what we're
accustom to.
The supplied wire for the speakers at best is, 22 AWG and
may even be 24 AWG.
I once saw a labeling on a package from china, I can't remember
the exact abbreviation used.. but something like PM,.CM ,PCM etc
wattage..
Must be a different scale of watts!
;)
gree...@neo.rr.com
I'm not trying to defend a piece of junk, but a system *can* be
designed to handle that peak power without drawing that same amount of
power from the mains. Back in the days of just regular stereo, I was
always amazed that I could play my system at an almost painful level
and with the average power to the speakers remaining below 5 watts. Of
course, the peaks were many many times higher. A good system would
put out 5 watts with 200 watt peaks. A cheap system would put out 5
watts with 10 watt peaks. The difference in sound quality was very
obvious.
Anyway, my only point is the peak power output of any system can be a
lot more than multiplying the mains volatage by the mains current.
Large power supply capacitors provide the energy for the short peaks.
Gnack Nol
The actual output wattage vs the computed instentanious peak wattage is
the key to wattage measurements. Every manufacturer uses their own
formulas but most actually include the wasted current used by the output
stages as actual effective wattage.
I had a Fisher unit that was rated at only 8 watts from 8 to 20,000
cycles and it was far superior to the then current 2-300 watt peak
stereos because the rating on the Fisher was 8 watts continuous across an
8 ohm speaker for an actual output current of 1 amp across the speaker.
This was actually higher than the rated peak output on others.
As far as I know Fisher was the only maker that ever used actual power
output in their ratings.
They generated a very stiff power supply by using 65,000 MF filter caps on
the positive and negative supplies with a very heavy power transformer.
The total voltage across the output IC pacs was around 120V total and the
power supply was fused at 5 amps max.
So yes it is possible to build a quality system but cheap usually wins out
over quality.
Gnack
Arfa Daily
"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_v...@charter.net> wrote in message
news:B%Num.191914$8B7...@newsfe20.iad...
These unrealistic sounding figures are not always an out and out lie - as
such. More the way that they are marketed to the public. For a start, they
always use some proprietry "backpedalling peak music with a good following
wind into 1 ohm" type power measurement, which results in a figure of 180
watts for a channel based on a car radio output IC, that can actually do
about 5 watts RMS on a good day, if you're lucky. Then, they add all the
channels together. So if you have an eight channel amplifier, it becomes
very easy to reach figures like "1000 watts" ...
I recall back in the day, Sir Clive Sinclair bringing out a small IC based
power amp, before the public really understood what a chip was. The power
output for this thing was claimed at some ridiculous figure like 30 watts.
The story goes that this figure had been achieved for 1 second with the
thing cooled in liquid nitrogen, or some such nonsense :-)
Probably the stuff of urban myth, but the actual amp was, I suspect, capable
of no more realistically, than 2 watts RMS.
Arfa
Dave Plowman (News)
Arfa Daily <arfa....@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> For a start, they always use some proprietry "backpedalling peak music
> with a good following wind into 1 ohm" type power measurement, which
> results in a figure of 180 watts for a channel based on a car radio
> output IC, that can actually do about 5 watts RMS on a good day, if
> you're lucky.
5 watts is about the figure for a basic amp running on 14 volts into 4
ohms - but most use something rather more sophisticated these days.
There's actually a DIN standard for measuring car radio outputs.
--
*When companies ship Styrofoam, what do they pack it in? *
Bob Larter
>> This unit is sold as a Colby 1000Watt system. And take my word for it.
>> the 1000Watt is a full out lie!.
>>
>> You don't need to be an electrical engineer to quickly discover this
>> when you examine the AC mains max demand that is labeled on the device!.
>
> These unrealistic sounding figures are not always an out and out lie - as
> such.
According the webpage, it's "1000W RMS", which is obviously a blatant
lie. Looking at it, & based on what the OP has said, I'd guesstimate its
true output at 10W RMS, or maybe (being very generous) as high at 20W RMS.
--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
William Sommerwerck
Must be a pretty cheesy product...
Dave Plowman (News)
Meat Plow <me...@petitmorte.net> wrote:
> I don't recall ever seeing a home surround system that didn't have
> some kind of digital input.
Depends on what you mean by surround. Plenty of Dolby Pro Logic stuff
didn't have digital inputs.
--
*Never kick a cow pat on a hot day *