Re: Safe to use WD40 as switch or potentiometer cleaner?
Ron Hardin
>
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
I have great results with Caig DeoxIT, which prevents oxidation as well. WD40 sounds
very unlikely.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=3
I use the brush-on mostly, on plugs and jacks; the spray for some pots.
Actually works.
--
Ron Hardin
rhha...@mindspring.com
On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.
Agonia
that attracts dirt.
Use a real electronic cleaner (usually a heavy freon type) cost is about the
same.
"Franky" <frank...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:9548AEBCB...@127.0.0.1...
ji...@specsol-spam-sux.com
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
> Any views on this?
Some rambling thoughts:
The carrier and other volatiles may or may not attack plasic parts
depending on the type of plastic.
I've seen contact cleaners that leave a residue detune RF circuits at
VHF and UHF frequencies.
I've seen contact cleaners that leave a residue cause problems with
high voltage (several hundred volts) circuits as well as high impedance
circuits. I'm guessing that the residue caused dust, etc. to stick
which was just conductive enough to cause a problem.
In general, if all you have is WD40 and you are judicious in applying
it, it should be OK.
--
Jim Pennino
Remove -spam-sux to reply.
John Miller
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
The following is offered for information/trivia value only. If ex-Tek
repair guy Jim Yanik happens to read this, he will be able to confirm,
clarify or refute.
If memory serves, WD-40 has been specified in some Tek service manuals for
certain contact cleaning applications (definitely not all, and please do
not use it on the basis of this anecdotal information.)
--
John Miller
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
Life is one long struggle in the dark.
-- Titus Lucretius Carus
kony
wrote:
>Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
>circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
Not really, there is nothing particularly good/appropriate about
using it. It will leave oily film behind that dissolves the
grease in moving parts (which should stay in those parts) and
will attract dust.
>
>I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
>cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
>WD40?
Generally a pot will clean itself good enough if you just turn it
back and forth a few times, unless the spring-metal contacts's
tension has been reduced though wear. If that's the case it's
"sometimes" possible to gently pry open the pot and (re)bend
contacts back out, but it's really a last-ditch effort if you
can't find another pot or need immediate fix.
>
>Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
>thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
>use WD40 all the time.
>
>Any views on this?
Why would anyone want to use a degreaser that leaves behind a
residue of it's own? It may work a bit but mostly if that pot
had decades-old hardened grease, not for parts that were
regularly used. WD40 may help with mechanical function of the
pot but electrical contact should be worse over time.
Michael Black
John Miller (m...@privacy.net) writes:
> Franky wrote:
>> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
>> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>>
>> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
>> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
>> WD40?
>>
>> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
>> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
>> use WD40 all the time.
>>
>> Any views on this?
>
> The following is offered for information/trivia value only. If ex-Tek
> repair guy Jim Yanik happens to read this, he will be able to confirm,
> clarify or refute.
>
> If memory serves, WD-40 has been specified in some Tek service manuals for
> certain contact cleaning applications (definitely not all, and please do
> not use it on the basis of this anecdotal information.)
>
they said something about using WD-40 to clean the blue case on the scopes.
Michael
Bob Stephens
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
I used to work with a former safe and vault mechanic/locksmith who said
that WD40 was the worst thing you could do to a piece of machinery, because
the residue attracts grit and ends up being more abrasive than if you had
left it alone in the first place.
Bob
--
"Just machines that make big decisions
programmed by fellas with compassion and vision."
-D. Fagen
(remove yomama)
Graham W
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
WD40 is a Water Dispersant and should never be used as a switch
cleaner since it isn't, by design, either a cleaner or lubricant.
--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.
Sam Wormley
>
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
The product designs for cleaning pots, connectors and switches is
DeoxIT D5 (Caig Laboratories, Inc.)
http://www.caig.com
Mark (UK)
??
I think it is a lubricant, but maybe not an electrical one.....
It certainly lubricates parts on my car :-)
Yours, Mark.
John Miller
> I think it is a lubricant, but maybe not an electrical one.....
>
> It certainly lubricates parts on my car :-)
While it might technically have lubricant properties, it's not a very good
lubricant, having been formulated as a water dispersant. In particular, it
doesn't have much film strength.
It is a pretty good solvent for lots of things, though, and can sometimes be
used to "rejuvinate" dried up lubricants (which is by no means a substitute
for proper cleaning and re-lubing).
--
John Miller
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
When bad men combine, the good must associate; else they will fall one by
one, an unpitied sacrifice in a contemptible struggle.
-Edmund Burke
nospam
>Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
>circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
>I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
>cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
>WD40?
>
>Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
>thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
>use WD40 all the time.
I have a Philips frequency counter with PCB mounted radio button type
switches. After about 10 years the switches were intermittent and a getting
to be a real pain in the arse.
I tried cleaning them several times with solvents (PCB cleaner and IPA tape
head cleaner) which made little difference I tried some WD40 which worked
wonders. It is probably another 10 years on now and the switches are still
fine.
I have also used WD40 very sparingly as a lubricant for PGA processor pins
in the days before motherboards had ZIF sockets. It made a huge difference
to the force required to get a chip in or out and had no noticeable
detrimental effects.
gothika
wrote:
>Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
>circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
>I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
>cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
>WD40?
>
>Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
>thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
>use WD40 all the time.
>
>Any views on this?
NO! WD40 isn't even a good lubricant and certainly not a contact
cleaner or pot washer.
You didn't give any details as to the type of pot you want to clean.
some of the larger/older pots can be taken apart and washed out, then
relubed(lithium grease) and put back together.
You can use a regular contact cleaner or a solvent such as denatured
alchohol or isobutane(lighter fluid) to clean it out.
Blow it out with clean dry air.(or set it up and let it air dry)
A very thin coat of lithium based lube(I use Lubriplate) then
reasemble it.
If it's a newer style pot that has a sealed plastic case the best you
could do is spray or drip sonme contact cleaner around the base of the
shaft.( Sit unit up on it's back panel to allow gravity to force the
cleaner in.).
Let it sit for a few seconds and work the pot up and down to get the
grit/dust worked off the contact area.
If the pot's seam around the shaft looks like it has enough gap to put
a little air in you can try that to get the dust out.(I turn the unit
facing down, cover the pot with clean white paper towel and blow air
in using a fine point nozzle. You'll see if your getting any dirt out
by looking at the paper towel.)
Art Leonard
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
WD40 is a mixture of kerosene and light spindle oil, not much good for
cleaning since it doesn't evaporate at any rate that would leave a dry
surface in your life time.
Art Leonard
Kim
coating of slimy sticky oil, when cans of proper cleaner are only about 1.00
more expensive than a can of WD 40...hell you might as well use PAM!
Kim
"Art Leonard" <Kufu...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:yXwUc.26155$9Y6....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Van Gardner
> Mark (UK) wrote:
>
> > I think it is a lubricant, but maybe not an electrical one.....
> >
> > It certainly lubricates parts on my car :-)
>
> While it might technically have lubricant properties, it's not a very good
> lubricant, having been formulated as a water dispersant. In particular, it
> doesn't have much film strength.
>
> It is a pretty good solvent for lots of things, though, and can sometimes be
> used to "rejuvinate" dried up lubricants (which is by no means a substitute
> for proper cleaning and re-lubing).
There is an interesting history of WD40 on the web at:
http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html
I had used it for a long time to loosen rusted nuts & bolts. One day
I washed my car engine off at the car wash and got water in the
distributor cap and was trying to dry it out with a paper towel and
some man came over with a can of WD40 and sprayed some in the cap and
the engine started immediately. I later saw a program on TV telling
of the development of WD40 as a water displacement solution.
Van Gardner
gothika
wrote:
The water displacement properties came about some years back with the
formula of WD40.
Up until then it was really just a light duty oil. And as anyone
versed in corrosion control knows light oils can actually promote rust
by holding water onto a metal surface.
This was WD40's major failing, it might loosen a stuck part up but if
left on would result in rust.
If you want a good lubricant AND corrosion control material then you
go with LPS.
It comes in different grades from very light (LPS1) to very heavy(LPS4
or even 5)
It displaces moisture/water and provides reduction in surface
friction.
You can use LPS 1 or 2 for electromechanical lubrication and it does
have some cleaning properties.
I used it for many years in industrial electronics in relays and
solenoids etc...
Even with the formulation change most professionals still consider
WD40 to be crap.
To clean out your pot use a good contact cleaner followed by the
proper grease.(Lithium based such as Lubriplate)
Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"
"nospam" <nos...@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
news:s7t4i0l730cgpirep...@4ax.com...
Well, so far, after reading at least ten followups to this thread,
you're the only one that's for using WD-40. The others are all against.
Sorry to say it, but I agree with the others. WD-40 leaves a film that
attracts dust and just causes more problems later.
A week ago I took one of the smog control sensors apart on my car, and
found it to be working okay, but I'm still getting the trouble light.
The sensor has a spring loaded pin that sticks out and touches the
diaphragm, and as the pin is pushed in, the resistance of the sensor
varies from 2k or so to zero. The end of this pin had a small dab of
white grease to lube it. It's essentially a pot with the ends at ground
and +5V, and the wiper at somewhere in between. But the three pins on
the connector were coated with a clear grease, which prevents corrosion
but doesn't insulate the mating contacts from one another. This
connector is sealed with a rubber gasket to keep out all that nasty junk
from the engine. So these sensors rely on a small amount of special
grease and a good seal to protect them from corrosion, and keep them
from giving the wrong position info to the controller.
Whatever lubricant you use on a switch, it should be designed to do the
proper job, and WD-40 was not designed for that purpose. Use a contact
cleaner and lubricant that's made to clean and lubricate contacts.
Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"
"gothika" <Vamp...@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:tv55i01jnfch519e3...@4ax.com...
My thought is that using something other than clear grease could cause
the pot's resistance to change. Grease with an additive could be less
than an insulator, causing a reduction in the pot's resistance.
ANother point. If a pot is worn, no amount of cleaner or lubricant is
going to make it unworn. It will need to be replaced if the equipment
has to perform like it was when it was new.
Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"
"Art Leonard" <Kufu...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:yXwUc.26155$9Y6....@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
And oil turns to varnish over a longer period of time.
> Art Leonard
Graham W
> Franky wrote:
>> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
>> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> for cleaning since it doesn't evaporate at any rate that would leave
> a dry surface in your life time.
Except if you use WD40 to free-up and lubricate some mechanism
it'll all be gone in a fortnight!
Ken G.
then the rest have not tried it and are hell bent that it wont work .
For ordinary pot , switch , control cleaning wd40 works fine . More is
not better . It does not leave gunk behind .
Bob
smells badly and any good that it can do is far exceeded by using better
stuff. Besides, it's very expensive.
There is another cult that seems to want to use this crap for almost any
purpose.
It's true that if a mechanism is sticky, you can use even plain water as a
lubricant to get it going. That doesn't mean it's a good idea in the long
run.
There is no substitute for careful cleaning and then replacement of proper
lubricant if needed. I have repaired many a noisy control simply by
exercising it, without chemicals. The problem with many controls is that
they sit in the same position so long they lose their function due to dust
and coagulation of lubricant.
Alan Douglas
>> > thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
>> > use WD40 all the time.
>>
>> for cleaning since it doesn't evaporate at any rate that would leave a
>> dry surface in your life time.
>
>And oil turns to varnish over a longer period of time.
Referring to the Material Safety Data Sheet and other sources:
WD40 is 70% Stoddard solvent, a controlled-flash-point kerosene.
WD40 also contains 20% petroleum-base (paraffinic) oil, and less than
10% proprietary corrosion inhibitor, wetting agent, and fragrance.
The aerosol cans add 25% isobutane/propane propellant.
Over time, the paraffinic oil will react with atmospheric oxygen
and polymerize, creating what is technically termed a "gummy mess."
If you want a solvent, use a straight solvent. If you want
lubrication, use a good oil (they do vary in resistance to oxidation).
If you need to clean and maintain electrical contacts, use a product
made for that purpose.
Regards, Alan
ptaylor
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
I tried to use it one to clean a dirty volume pot in an older TV.
It worked great,for about 3 minutes,then the volume control was
stiff,and sticky.The carbon resistance trace and become "goo" and the
pot was completely destroyed. WD40 sux for pots. Use DeOxit or something
similar.
RonKZ650
>It worked great,for about 3 minutes,then the volume control was
>stiff,and sticky
I haven't had any problems. I've been using it to clean pots since tuner
cleaner turned to crap when it went CFC free. When was that? about 1990? I'm in
the business and have cleaned many thousand controls with WD40 and it works
great.
Ron
gothika
You have NO idea what you are talking about.
This comes from my training and 3 decades of experience as an Avionics
corrosion control technician.
WD40 is pure crap.
Mike Diack
news:et19i0dvnp0mhe7bp...@4ax.com:
Totally agree - you might as well spray peanut butter in your pots.
It does have its uses however -
the "Iwo Jima" method of flushing out the rat that the cat mislays behind
the woodstove springs to mind.
M
RonKZ650
>It does have its uses however -
>the "Iwo Jima" method of flushing out the rat that the cat mislays behind
>the woodstove springs to mind.
>M
Well then I guess I've just been darn lucky that the thousands of pots I've
cleaned with WD40 worked out great. I'll find something different now that I
have read the truth.
Ron
gothika
Like I said LPS #1 will work for cleaning and lubricating pots that
use lube.
Any good brand of contact cleaner will do on "dry" pots.(graphite
element)
John Robertson
to think that WD-40 is NOT good inside machines. Everything gums up
about five to ten years after some one sprays that stuff on moving
metal bits, then you have to take it apart somehow (lots of solvent)
and clean the glazed crap out.
I only use WD-40 for it's original intent - as a tool preservative.
It's WaterDisplacement-40th formula, anything else is based on it
comes out as a liquid there for it 'must' be good for lubrication.
Never designed as a lub...I'd never use it as a lube.
OK, the web site suggests using it to lubricate a dish washer arm ,
but read the other uses...
http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40.cfm I fail to see volume controls or
any valuable electronic equipment mentioned...
John :-#)#
www.flippers.com
On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 06:45:47 -0600, good...@webtv.net (Ken G.) wrote:
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Leonard G. Caillouet
concur that the best cleaner/preservative is, and has been for a couple of
decades, Caig's Deoxit (aka Cramolin). WD40 is what it is, a relatively
poor lubricant and cleaner. Numerous other cleaners and lubricants do a
better job on pots. What is the advantage to even considering WD-40 unless
you are in a pinch and have nothing else? The best products are just not
that much more expensive.
Leonard
"John Robertson" <sp...@flippers.com> wrote in message
news:hfbci09t7k7qdhs20...@4ax.com...
gothika
<lcail...@devoynet.com> wrote:
`Correct, much to much said about it.
I'd just reiterated the obvious the times I did to try and get the
message through that using WD40 was a very bad idea.(If the poster's
pots survived it in the past it could attributed to the pots being of
good quality and very forgiving to such abuse, certainly not to any
"quality" of WD40.)
I've not used Cramolin, mostly the usual stuff from CRC or Chemtool or
LPS.
I'll have to search it out locally and give it a try.
gothika
wrote:
>My experience in twenty-five+ years of amusement game service leads me
>to think that WD-40 is NOT good inside machines. Everything gums up
>about five to ten years after some one sprays that stuff on moving
>metal bits, then you have to take it apart somehow (lots of solvent)
>and clean the glazed crap out.
>
>I only use WD-40 for it's original intent - as a tool preservative.
>It's WaterDisplacement-40th formula, anything else is based on it
>comes out as a liquid there for it 'must' be good for lubrication.
>Never designed as a lub...I'd never use it as a lube.
You'd get much better results using LPS4 to keep your tools rust free.
It is one of the few lubricants that won't gum up, yet provides a
water resistant coating.
I used it years gone by when I too worked in the vending business
servicing onsite vending machines.
Great for loosening up sticky coin control units and such.
Ken G.
because i have no trouble with it gumming up anything .
You all are using to much or something .. i have sprayed it on things to
just clean them and had to leave them sit . When i returned the next day
all was dry .
I have noticed many people like to just follow the first person who says
something without really trying it . I have a can of Deoxit because it
was bragged about so much and it does work very well but no different
than WD . The Deoxit has a very funny rot smell too .
Ray L. Volts
"Franky" <frank...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:9548AEBCB...@127.0.0.1...
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
>
> I know that you can get the proper aerosol spray cans of switch
> cleaner but if I find myself without one of those then can I use
> WD40?
>
> Personally I would guess it is not OK as I figure there is always a
> thin layer of oil but several people I have spoken to say that they
> use WD40 all the time.
>
> Any views on this?
As some have suggested, you can temporarily restore a scratchy/dirty pot or
switch by just moving it thru its range 5-10 or so times. But, as I said,
this is only a temporary fix. I've tried this on hundreds of different
kinds of pots and switches over the years and this method just doesn't last
long at all for controls that aren't in practically constant use afterward.
If you don't use the control often, you'll find the next time you try to use
it, it will once again be scratchy.
To clean scratchy pots and switches that have a case hole, I flush them with
tuner (or contact) cleaner sprays using a plastic extender tube. I've found
these cleaners work very well on the pot wipers and switch contacts over
time. These contact restorers all basically do the same thing, which is to
clean, lubricate and protect without having to disassemble the control. Of
course, if the pot or switch shaft originally had grease on it and the spray
removed it, you'll need to replace it -- GC's Lubriplate is thin and easily
worked down into the shaft housing.
Some pots are designed to offer heavier resistance to movement in order to
appear "smoother" (read high-quality) to the operator. These may employ a
special high-viscosity "damping" lube. This is similar to the lube that's
used on a record player's cue arm to allow it to lower the needle onto the
vinyl slowly and softly. It's also used in cassette decks, et al, to make
the door operation smoother. It is very thick and should be applied
sparingly. This is not readily available; you'll likely have to mail order
it.
Pots and switches in high frequency applications may be better served by
cleaning with a non-residue cleaner and then lubed with special high-freq.
grease (I use GC's Tunerlub).
WD-40 may not be great for pots, but it does last a good while on garage
door wheels and the like. Slick 50 spray is a good alternative for
garden-variety needs.
WD-40 is superb for removing dried contact cement! I use it to clean up DAP
cement after applying laminate (Formica, Wilsonart, etc.). It works better
than many other solvents I've tried. I wouldn't recommend it on porous
surfaces where it can soak in and cause probs, but on non-porous surfaces
such as these laminates it works wonders and it can be cleaned off easily
enough.
WD-40 also dissolves the gum backing from price stickers and the like, but I
prefer to use Chemtronics Label Adhesive Remover because it foams up and
stays in place (handy on vertical surfaces). It also smells a lot better
than WD-40.
But I digress...
Use products designed specifically for electronics use and you'll be happier
with your repairs in the long run.
Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:
> WD40 is a mixture of kerosene ...
See http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html
What does WD-40 contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40
does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water,
wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing
agents.
> ... and light spindle oil, not much good for
>cleaning since it doesn't evaporate at any rate that would leave a dry
>surface in your life time.
>
>Art Leonard
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
Michael A. Covington
Actually, they have to disclose quite a bit in the MSDS:
http://www.wd40.com/Brands/msds_usa.html
Richard Henry
"Franc Zabkar" <fza...@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:fagdi0h179glij93o...@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 23:57:18 GMT, Art Leonard <Kufu...@earthlink.net>
> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> > WD40 is a mixture of kerosene ...
>
> See http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html
>
> What does WD-40 contain?
>
> While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40
> does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water,
> wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing
> agents.
>
> > ... and light spindle oil, not much good for
> >cleaning since it doesn't evaporate at any rate that would leave a dry
> >surface in your life time.
Just this week I used WD-40 to lubricate the garden gate hinges and sprayed
some on the cutters after pruning some shrubs.
Years ago in youthful ignorance I tried to clean a coffee spill out of a
computer keyboard with it. I eventually just got a new keyboard.
Woody
"Ken G." <good...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:18920-41...@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net...
The old favourite was carbon tetrachloride (if you can still get it) with a
drop if machine oil in it - usually one drop of 3-in-1 in a teaspoonful of
CTC.
--
Woody
gothika
HAHAHAHA! (I love it when someone gets harpooned.)
nostickyresidue
<rayl...@SPAMRIDhotmail.com> wrote:
>
>But I digress...
>Use products designed specifically for electronics use and you'll be happier
>with your repairs in the long run.
>
I recommend using LPS instead of wd40.
mitch perkins
>
> Just this week I used WD-40 to lubricate the garden gate hinges and sprayed
> some on the cutters after pruning some shrubs.
>
> Years ago in youthful ignorance I tried to clean a coffee spill out of a
> computer keyboard with it. I eventually just got a new keyboard.
If you can manage to sneak a squirt of WD40 into your slot-car motor
just before a race, victory will be yours! Not, however, if the track
is full-living-room sized and the race is more than 15 laps. Also the
resulting aroma, while exceedingly pleasant, will give you away.
Make sure not to spill any on the rear wheels, or you're *done*.
Mitch
Ken Weitzel
Woody wrote:
Yikes! Scary scary stuff!
Carbon tet has been banned here since I was a
young fellow, and that was back about the time
they invented dirt :) Or dirty controls, anyway :)
Don't even think about buying it. And if you should
happen to have some, please get rid of it. Safely.
Call your hazardous waste folks.
Ken
gothika
wrote:
Geez Ken, there are some of us who can and do handle hazardous
materials in our work every day.
Carbon Tet is way down on the list of some of the hazardous materials
I've used.
Just avoid ignition devices around it and have plenty of ventilation
to avoid breathing any of the fumes.
Look up the MSDS on use and handling and you'll be fine.
gothika
More specifically LPS #1.
Ken Weitzel
Hi Gothika...
We must be talking about different stuff... the stuff I
used to clean controls with as a young fellow are now
known to cause liver, kidney and central nervous system
damage. Most likely a carcinogen. At high levels coma
or even death. Can be taken by ingestion, breathing the
fumes, skin contact, or drinking contaminated water.
Add to that, it destroys the ozone layer.
Must be different stuff, carbon tet isn't flammable
either.
Banned completely here; used only in a few industrial
apps in your country.
Read more...
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts30.html
Take care.
Ken
gothika
wrote:
I've afeeling we're probably about the same age.
I used Carbon tetrachloride in various apps for cleaning everthing
from industrial electrical components to stripping optical coatings.
Most of the grades I used were flammable and yes very toxic.
I've had to use much worse.
Try high grade ether, I used that for years and it can be a bug to
contain or avoid inhalation or skin contact.
Yet it's one really good super-solvent.
If you REALLY want to sweat try packing and transporting weapons grade
uranium or plutonium.(In my service days I worked on a hazardous
material disposal squad and had to move everthing from old bombs/mines
to ICBM components)
John Miller
> I've afeeling we're probably about the same age.
> I used Carbon tetrachloride in various apps for cleaning everthing
> from industrial electrical components to stripping optical coatings.
> Most of the grades I used were flammable and yes very toxic.
???? It used to be used as a fire extinguisher. Don't take my word for it,
though -- check it out again to refresh your memory.
--
John Miller
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
It's hard to drive at the limit, but it's harder to know where the limits
are.
-- Stirling Moss
Asimov
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Safe to use WD40 as switch or potentiometer
cleaner?"
go> From: gothika <Vamp...@nettaxi.com>
go> On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 03:29:52 GMT, Ken Weitzel <kwei...@shaw.ca>
go> wrote:
>
>
>Woody wrote:
>
>> "Ken G." <good...@webtv.net> wrote in message
>> news:18920-41...@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net...
>>
>>>There is a large ``cult`` against wd40 because someone chose to start it
>>>then the rest have not tried it and are hell bent that it wont work .
>>>
>>>For ordinary pot , switch , control cleaning wd40 works fine . More is
>>>not better . It does not leave gunk behind .
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> The old favourite was carbon tetrachloride (if you can still get it) with a
>> drop if machine oil in it - usually one drop of 3-in-1 in a teaspoonful of
>> CTC.
>
>Yikes! Scary scary stuff!
>
>Carbon tet has been banned here since I was a
>young fellow, and that was back about the time
>they invented dirt :) Or dirty controls, anyway :)
>
>Don't even think about buying it. And if you should
>happen to have some, please get rid of it. Safely.
>Call your hazardous waste folks.
>
>Ken
go> Geez Ken, there are some of us who can and do handle hazardous
go> materials in our work every day.
go> Carbon Tet is way down on the list of some of the hazardous materials
go> I've used.
go> Just avoid ignition devices around it and have plenty of ventilation
go> to avoid breathing any of the fumes.
go> Look up the MSDS on use and handling and you'll be fine.
I went to the car parts mart the other day looking for phosphoric acid
to pickle a bit of metal before painting and the clerk drone told me
they don't sell dangerous chemicals anymore because of environmental
rules, etc. So I turned around and went to the electric soldering
department and picked up a bottle of hydrochloric acid and showed it
to him. Some people...
A+s+i+m+o+v
... Dunno if we'll get that past the CSA und UL 'owever.
Keith Willcocks
ribbon on a dot matrix printer by opening the cassette and spraying the
ribbon with WD40. Sounds daft but works extremely well, a friend has
ribbons that have been sprayed 3 or 4 times and are years old and still
working.
--
Keith Willcocks
(remove .nospam from address to reply)
"mitch perkins" <mitchs...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:64dddc3d.04082...@posting.google.com...
mitch perkins
>
> "mitch perkins" <mitchs...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:64dddc3d.04082...@posting.google.com...
> > "Richard Henry" <rph...@home.com> wrote in message
> news:<cmQVc.123523$sh.72032@fed1read06>...
> > >
> > > Just this week I used WD-40 to lubricate the garden gate hinges and
> sprayed
> > > some on the cutters after pruning some shrubs.
> > >
> > > Years ago in youthful ignorance I tried to clean a coffee spill out of a
> > > computer keyboard with it. I eventually just got a new keyboard.
> >
> > If you can manage to sneak a squirt of WD40 into your slot-car motor
> > just before a race, victory will be yours! Not, however, if the track
> > is full-living-room sized and the race is more than 15 laps. Also the
> > resulting aroma, while exceedingly pleasant, will give you away.
> > Make sure not to spill any on the rear wheels, or you're *done*.
> You reminded me that you can drastically extend the life of a worn out
> ribbon on a dot matrix printer by opening the cassette and spraying the
> ribbon with WD40. Sounds daft but works extremely well, a friend has
> ribbons that have been sprayed 3 or 4 times and are years old and still
> working.
Really? Me? I had an old VCR that had an audio-dub feature. We would
tape Star Trek and The X Files and then dub in the most ridiculous
dialogue. Always something to do with hats or cheese or the captains
Bovril stash. Those two shows were perfect because the actors are so
*serious*.
Anyway, when it began to die, (the thing had a fake wood finish!), I
somehow got the idea to open the tape slot and - *spray everything
inside with alcohol*.
Punchline: it added at least a year to the life of a dear old
friend. (I think the alcohol "re-stickied" the belts.)
Moral: they don't make 'em like they used to.
Mitch
Double-A
I had a track-drive garage door opener that was sticking. I sprayed
it with WD40 and it worked like a charm to keep the thing operating
trouble free for a couple more months.
The plastic links in the track-drive suffered catastrophic failure,
probably due to exposure of the plastic to the solvent in WD40! Had
to replace the whole thing.
Some people use WD40 on their arthritic knees (well if it works on
hinges...). Fact is that the solvent in WD40 is DMSO, the same
substance once touted for its miraculous healing qualities. So yes,
WD40 can give at least temporary relief for the arthritic knee. But
one must consider the toxins in WD40 that are being absorbed into the
body along with the medicating solvent.
Not recommended. Your body might suffer a catastrophic failure just
like my garage door opener!
Double-A
Dave Platt
Double-A <doub...@hush.com> wrote:
>I had a track-drive garage door opener that was sticking. I sprayed
>it with WD40 and it worked like a charm to keep the thing operating
>trouble free for a couple more months.
>
>The plastic links in the track-drive suffered catastrophic failure,
>probably due to exposure of the plastic to the solvent in WD40! Had
>to replace the whole thing.
>
>Some people use WD40 on their arthritic knees (well if it works on
>hinges...). Fact is that the solvent in WD40 is DMSO, the same
>substance once touted for its miraculous healing qualities.
The Material Safety Data Sheet for WD-40 aerosol makes no mention of
DMSO. The hazardous ingredients listed are "aliphatic petroleum
distillates", "petroleum base oil", "LVP hydrocarbon fluid", and
carbon dioxide. Each of these ingredients is identified by a specific
CAS registry number, and none of the numbers match the CAS for
dimethyl sulfoxide (67-68-5).
I suspect that the idea that WD-40 contains DMSO is simply an urban
legend.
--
Dave Platt <dpl...@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
Tadeusz Jerzy Korsak
> Is it safe to use WD40 as a switch (or potentiometer) cleaner on
> circuit boards and in electronic equipment?
I have used WD40 to clean residue of silicone sealant from acrylic shower
tub in my bathroom!
Spray it on, wait 30 seconds and clean it with wooden spatula or figernails
and paper towel.
Repeat on thicker patches.
Kind regards!
Tadeusz
jakdedert
"Tadeusz Jerzy Korsak" <tko...@polbox.com> wrote in message
news:cgsv4g$nk6$1...@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...
residue. I don't know why, but it works almost as well as stuff actually
made for the purpose.
jak
Spehro Pefhany
It's got a lot of solvent in it. I've got some strange orange oil
natural stuff that works fairly well and is allegedly less toxic. I
like the smell of WD40 better.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
gothika
Could be all that kerosene.(petroleum distillates.)
TMG
> "Tadeusz Jerzy Korsak" <tko...@polbox.com> wrote in message
> news:cgsv4g$nk6$1...@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...
>
>>I have used WD40 to clean residue of silicone sealant from acrylic shower
>>tub in my bathroom!
Vinegar works better or as well. Acetic acid is one of the solvents in
most silicone caulks. And it doesn't leave an oily residue.
gothika
Acetic acid is good.
I use toulol or toulene based carbuerator cleaner.(It comes in a spray
can, also has acetone.)
It's a good silicone solvent and cleans just about anything off.
Good for removing paper labels and adhesive off of glass jars.
78 cents a can at Wal-Mart. Super Tech brand.
Also good for cleaning video and audio heads and tape guides,
rollers.(Just spray it on a swab and wipe, leaves no residue.)
Richard Henry
"gothika" <Vamp...@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
news:5nf8j0pt4iokbmhd2...@4ax.com...
Don't breathe the vapors or get any on your skin. I guess it's ok to look
at it.