Sherwood RD6106 tuner amp, prob 2000 year

N_Cook

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Oct 27, 2010, 11:34:02 AM10/27/10

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I though that hygroscopic brown glue stuff went out in the 70s. Used to
secure 12.288M crystal for the digital interface processor was around and a
pin and had rusted through at the epoxy bond. Plenty of opportunity for
liquid to pass through top vents but no sign of liquid anywhere so
presumably this duff glue stuff again. Luckily easily replaced.
Unfortunately looks as thogh it was used as flip-chip temporary bonding
before soldering, hopefully away from anything rustable there.

Does anyone have a sure-fire way of dealing with delatching those white
nylon board spacer+pcb holders? Sometimes a banana plug/ wander plug cover
works, sometimes a small nut driver. So often in too awkward a place to get
pliers in at board level. One of these on this amp I ended up cutting one of
the pair of tangs off, to free the board. Perhaps a range of metal cylinders
with dowel handles, various bore sizes.

Cydrome Leader

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Oct 27, 2010, 4:41:22 PM10/27/10

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If you have a pair of crappy needlenose pliers you don't love anymore you
can try to bend the tips inwards a bit. Those spacer things still suck,
especially when they're old and brittle and just break off.

Jeffrey Angus

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Oct 27, 2010, 9:05:54 PM10/27/10

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On 10/27/2010 10:34 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> Perhaps a range of metal cylinders
> with dowel handles, various bore sizes.

Head down to the hobby store and get a selection
of small diameter brass tubing.

Jeff

N_Cook

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Oct 28, 2010, 3:16:20 AM10/28/10

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Cydrome Leader <pres...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:iaa2pi$4f1$2...@reader1.panix.com...

Needlenose slide off unless coming in sideways (rarely applicable). I will
try one of those double flat type that I've no idea what their intended
purpose is. Grind a pair of cylindrical internal surfaces , to locate over
the nylon tangs, and then a bit of serious heating and that inward bending
of the tips to overcome the angles of the tangs

N_Cook

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Oct 28, 2010, 7:32:25 AM10/28/10

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You'd think they'd use mineral bulking agent like French chalk , not corn
starch, or whatever is hygroscopic, in that glue that starts light tan
colour and goes browner and browner with age

Mark Zacharias

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Oct 28, 2010, 8:34:19 AM10/28/10

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"N_Cook" <div...@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ia9gph$8l6$1...@news.eternal-september.org...

I have several pairs of hemostats, curved and straight, which serve me well
in situations like this.

Mark Z.

N_Cook

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Oct 28, 2010, 10:10:16 AM10/28/10

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Mark Zacharias <mark_za...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4cc96dcb$0$18564$c3e8da3$3863...@news.astraweb.com...

I just tried some forceps, ok the serrations don't slide on the nylon but
they also bottom out against the angle of the nylon , necessitating bending
the tips inward to work.
I dug out the pair of (i thought) flat ended pliers to convert but only one
side is flat the other is convex along its length, I've even less idea what
those are for. Box-jawed so someone had a respecable use for them. I will
have to find some grotty long nose ones and grind back the ends , then
concave and bend probably grind undercuts if the jaws open enough/ come
apart, rather than heat and bend

N_Cook

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Oct 29, 2010, 4:20:32 AM10/29/10

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Worked a treat with the Sherwood and all the nylon standoffs I had laying
around.
Starting with an old pair of 2 inch long arm needle nose pliers. Grind off
the tips to give about 3mm wide. Dremmel and cutoff grinding disc cut a V
slot in each face to about 5mm up the arms, then hollow grind progressively
deeper for the next 10mm or so each side, not much just enough so the tops
of the standoffs don't bottom out on the faces.
Now to make a tool for cutting silicone sleeving into spiral wrap, first
attempt failed