Scratchy volume control.

[Peter Jason]

I have one of these......

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VHkWsb9MY0/maxresdefault.jpg


The volume control wheel (at the side) has lost
all fine-tuning capability, and makes appalling
noises when operated as it jumps at random from
high to low volume.

Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or
grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.

Otherwise the radio works well.

[John Robertson]

There are a number of good professional spray products for fixing bad
volume controls. I use M G Products Nu-Trol and my customers are happy
with the results. Use a spray that is specifically for volume controls
as the composition of the sprays varies from ones for switches, etc..

Do NOT use WD-40!!!!!(and on!!! and on!!!)

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

[Phil Allison]

John Robertson insane WD-40 HATER wrote:

>
>
>
> There are a number of good professional spray products for fixing bad
> volume controls. I use M G Products Nu-Trol and my customers are happy
> with the results. Use a spray that is specifically for volume controls
> as the composition of the sprays varies from ones for switches, etc..
>

** Same composition as WD-40 at *many times* the price.

> Do NOT use WD-40!!!!!(and on!!! and on!!!)
>
> John :-#)#
>

** Wot a bloody lunatic.



.... Phil

[Peter Jason]

On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 17:41:12 -0800, John Robertson
<sp...@flippers.com> wrote:

>On 2019/02/19 5:06 p.m., Peter Jason wrote:
>> I have one of these......
>>
>> https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VHkWsb9MY0/maxresdefault.jpg
>>
>>
>> The volume control wheel (at the side) has lost
>> all fine-tuning capability, and makes appalling
>> noises when operated as it jumps at random from
>> high to low volume.
>>
>> Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or
>> grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.
>>
>> Otherwise the radio works well.
>>
>
>There are a number of good professional spray products for fixing bad
>volume controls. I use M G Products Nu-Trol and my customers are happy
>with the results. Use a spray that is specifically for volume controls
>as the composition of the sprays varies from ones for switches, etc..
>
>Do NOT use WD-40!!!!!(and on!!! and on!!!)
>
>John :-#)#

Thanks, I'll check out the local radio shop.

[Fox's Mercantile]

On 2/19/19 10:31 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 17:41:12 -0800, John Robertson

>> I use M G Products Nu-Trol and my customers are happy
>> with the results.

<https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaning-products-for-electronics/cleaners/specialty-cleaners/nu-trol-control-cleaner-401b>

> Thanks, I'll check out the local radio shop.

I use Faderlube by Caig.
<http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.350/KB.218/.f>



--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

[tabb...@gmail.com]

Sometimes all one need to is twiddle the control back & forth a dozen or 2 times. Sometimes it also needs some cleaner sprayed into the pot. Sometimes that doesn't fix it & it needs its terminals resoldering.


NT

[tabb...@gmail.com]

and rarely the track is worn out.

[Look165]

Generallly, it comes from a bas contact between the cursor aand the
resistive track (dust or oxyde).
It can also come from a miscontact between this track and the connecting
pad or a "dry solder".
First step : re-solder everything.
Second step : use some KF or equivalent in large quantity inside
(through the opening of the leads).

[Fred McKenzie]

In article <0i9p6eh1b8ngk1tqf...@4ax.com>,

Peter-

You have a number of good suggestions above.

While you in the radio, check to see if there is a capacitor coupling to
the volume control. It is possible that a leaky coupling capacitor is
causing a DC current to flow in the volume control. Such a current can
cause any "scratchiness" to be made worse.

Fred

[Ian Jackson]

In message <6c49be26-2a37-465f...@googlegroups.com>, Phil
Allison <palli...@gmail.com> writes

I feel that the horrors of WD40 are greatly exaggerated. Since I lost my
tube of 'the real thing' (about 40 years ago) I've occasionally used
WD40 as a switch and volume control cleaner - and I've never had a
problem with it.
--
Ian

[Phil Allison]

Ian Jackson wrote
:
> Phil Allison

> >John Robertson insane WD-40 HATER wrote:
> >
>>
> >>
> >>
> >> There are a number of good professional spray products for fixing bad
> >> volume controls. I use M G Products Nu-Trol and my customers are happy
> >> with the results. Use a spray that is specifically for volume controls
> >> as the composition of the sprays varies from ones for switches, etc..
> >>
> > ** Same composition as WD-40 at *many times* the price.
> >
> >> Do NOT use WD-40!!!!!(and on!!! and on!!!)
> >>
> >> John :-#)#
> >>
> > ** Wot a bloody lunatic.
> >
> >.... Phil
> >
>
> I feel that the horrors of WD40 are greatly exaggerated.
>

** The name is WD40 - not WMD40.

> Since I lost my
> tube of 'the real thing' (about 40 years ago) I've occasionally used
> WD40 as a switch and volume control cleaner - and I've never had a
> problem with it.
> --

** Nor has anyone else.


... Phil

[peterw...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 at 8:52:40 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:

> ** Same composition as WD-40 at *many times* the price.

Twit:

Please note on the description: "Moderate Evaporation", and then try to learn something not covered by your closely held beliefs. Or are you one of those who wishes to have it both ways?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[Phil Allison]

Some utter FUCKWIT & moron called pf...@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 at 8:52:40 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
>
> > ** Same composition as WD-40 at *many times* the price.
>
>
> Twit:

** Vile troll.

>
> Please note on the description: "Moderate Evaporation",
>

** Please do the planet a favour - go top yourself.

Autistic nut cases like are no use to anyone.



.... Phil

[Peter Jason]

Are you in the correct NG? Are you lost?

[Peter Jason]

On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 17:41:12 -0800, John Robertson

<sp...@flippers.com> wrote:

>On 2019/02/19 5:06 p.m., Peter Jason wrote:
>> I have one of these......
>>
>> https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VHkWsb9MY0/maxresdefault.jpg
>>
>>
>> The volume control wheel (at the side) has lost
>> all fine-tuning capability, and makes appalling
>> noises when operated as it jumps at random from
>> high to low volume.
>>
>> Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or
>> grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.
>>
>> Otherwise the radio works well.
>>
>
>There are a number of good professional spray products for fixing bad
>volume controls. I use M G Products Nu-Trol and my customers are happy
>with the results. Use a spray that is specifically for volume controls
>as the composition of the sprays varies from ones for switches, etc..
>
>Do NOT use WD-40!!!!!(and on!!! and on!!!)
>
>John :-#)#

Would finely-powdered graphite work in this case.
Like the type used for door locks?

[Phil Allison]

Peter Jason wrote:


>
>
> Are you in the correct NG? Are you lost?
>

** You are obviously lost AND on the wrong NG.

Smart arsed shits like you are a dime a dozen you know.




.... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Some retard called Peter Jason wrote:

>
>
> Would finely-powdered graphite work in this case.
> Like the type used for door locks?
>
>

** Yeah - go ahead use plenty of it.

It can only be good for electronics.




..... Phil

[peterw...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, February 21, 2019 at 3:46:30 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
>
> Would finely-powdered graphite work in this case.
> Like the type used for door locks?

Graphite is a rather good conductor. Not an ideal material for the purpose.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

No.
1. It does not remove the gunk causing bad contact
2. It tends to short the resistance in use
3. It tends to create a short from track to case, which sometimes would be a problem.

It was sometimes used in the 1940s on pot tracks that had worn away, but that is not likely to be the problem, and certainly was not used by pouring powder in, and was at best a temporary bodge.


NT

[peterw...@gmail.com]

Imagine if our Tourette's Twit from Australia were to engage in its little fits face-to-face with its neighbors, acquaintances and customers?

Dubious that it would still be alive, much less at liberty.

I have often thought about asking a friend of mine who travels throughout the Down Under on a regular basis to see if he can get a picture of Mr. Allison - just for giggles. He is an ordained minister, so no threat.

[Phil Allison]

pf...@aol.com wrote:



** Grandiose, autistic shitheads need to be got rid of.

People like Peter Wieck are a pox on the face of the earth.

In ordinary life one simply avoids complete pricks like them - but on usenet the cretins are in your face and will not go away no matter how many times you direct them.

> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA

This old fool is a demented troll who thinks he OWNS the NG.

He fucking well does not.



..... Phil

[peterw...@gmail.com]

Yo, twit:

Watch for that stranger with a phone pointed in your direction. Could happen at any time, anywhere that you crawl out from under your rock, or out of your cellar. Really.

Pete Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[tabb...@gmail.com]

now there's irony

[Tom Del Rosso]

Phil Allison wrote:
> Ian Jackson wrote

>>
>> I feel that the horrors of WD40 are greatly exaggerated.
>
> ** The name is WD40 - not WMD40.

But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
something to do with that.

[Phil Allison]

Tom Del Rosso wrote:

>
> Phil Allison wrote:
> >
> >> I feel that the horrors of WD40 are greatly exaggerated.
> >
> > ** The name is WD40 - not WMD40.
>
>
> But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
> something to do with that.
>

** The propellant is CO2



.... Phil

[thekma...@gmail.com]

WD-40 is a CLEANER - for mechanical
movements only, not electronics. As such,
it should be followed up with a proper lubricant
in door hinges, latches, or anything else it
has been used to free up around the home
or business.

For electronics, use electronics cleaner. That's
why it's called 'electronics cleaner/spray'.

[Phil Allison]

thekma...@gmail.com wrote:


> WD-40 is a CLEANER


** It's a lubricant too - says so right on the can, fuckhead.

- for mechanical
> movements only, not electronics.

** Correct it is no use on capacitors, transistors or ICs.

Wot a moron !!!!!


Redundant bullshit sniped.



.... Phil

[Ian Jackson]

In message <63f77b92-f736-4233...@googlegroups.com>,
thekma...@gmail.com writes

>WD-40 is a CLEANER - for mechanical
>movements only, not electronics. As such,
>it should be followed up with a proper lubricant
>in door hinges, latches, or anything else it
>has been used to free up around the home
>or business.

Have you ever read the specs for WD40?

>
>For electronics, use electronics cleaner. That's
>why it's called 'electronics cleaner/spray'.

Most cleaners clean things that are 'not on the tin'.
--
Ian

[gregz]

Used to have propane. I used it on tent worms. Now very hard to ignite.

Greg

[Phil Allison]

GS wrote:
>
>
> >> But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
> >> something to do with that.
> >>
> >
> >
> > ** The propellant is CO2
> >
> >
> >
> > .... Phil
>
> Used to have propane.

** The propellant was changed to CO2 about 20 year ago.

> I used it on tent worms. Now very hard to ignite.
>

** The liquid is still highly lethal to cockroaches.



.... Phil

[micky]

In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 20 Feb 2019 00:33:16 -0800 (PST),

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

>On Wednesday, 20 February 2019 01:06:16 UTC, Peter Jason wrote:
>> I have one of these......
>>
>> https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VHkWsb9MY0/maxresdefault.jpg
>>
>>
>> The volume control wheel (at the side) has lost
>> all fine-tuning capability, and makes appalling
>> noises when operated as it jumps at random from
>> high to low volume.
>>
>> Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or
>> grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.
>>
>> Otherwise the radio works well.
>
>Sometimes all one need to is twiddle the control back & forth a dozen or 2 times.

Definitely t hat's the easiest and likely to make it work for a while.
I just left on a trip and the radio that was supposed to play to make
it sound like I was home had t he no-play problem, but twiddling the
volume a bit made it good enough to last until I get home, probably,
since no one will be moving it.

[Peter Jason]

On Wed, 20 Feb 2019 12:06:09 +1100, Peter Jason
<p...@jostle.com> wrote:

>I have one of these......
>
>https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VHkWsb9MY0/maxresdefault.jpg
>
>
>The volume control wheel (at the side) has lost
>all fine-tuning capability, and makes appalling
>noises when operated as it jumps at random from
>high to low volume.
>
>Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or
>grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.
>
>Otherwise the radio works well.

I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

[Fox's Mercantile]

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
> I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
> wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
> harder to turn though this might improve as
> remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

[Phil Allison]

Peter Jerkoff Jason wrote:

>
>
> I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
> wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
> harder to turn though this might improve as
> remaining traces of solvent evaporate.
>

** Nobody here suggested you do that.

What a fucking idiot you are.



.... Phil

[Peter Jason]

On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jda...@att.net> wrote:

>On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
>> I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
>> wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
>> harder to turn though this might improve as
>> remaining traces of solvent evaporate.
>
>It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
>it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?

[Peter Jason]

How rude! Your endless brawling with other posters
has got me flummoxed and confused.

[Fox's Mercantile]

What we told you to use to begin with.
<https://caig.com/fader-f-series/>

[Fox's Mercantile]

On 2/27/19 7:10 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
> How rude! Your endless brawling with other posters
> has got me flummoxed and confused.

You have two choices with Phil, agree with him, or
ignore him.

[Peter Jason]

On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 19:13:47 -0600, Fox's

Mercantile <jda...@att.net> wrote:

>On 2/27/19 7:09 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
>> On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
>> Mercantile <jda...@att.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
>>>> I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
>>>> wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
>>>> harder to turn though this might improve as
>>>> remaining traces of solvent evaporate.
>>>
>>> It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
>>> it.
>>
>> ....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?
>>
>
>What we told you to use to begin with.
><https://caig.com/fader-f-series/>

Thanks, I'll find some & report back.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

Ignore Phil, he's strange.


NT

[Phil Allison]

tabb.. the Troll puked:

>
>
> Peter Jason wrote:

> >
> > Thanks, I'll find some & report back.
>
>
> Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.
>

** How fascinating.

FYI, Mr NT, Peter Jason has been a notorious troll and resident quarter wit on aus.legal for more than 10 years.



> Ignore Phil,


** At your peril.


> he's strange.


** NT is completely demented, he thinks he thinks.

Like most of the autistic fools infesting usenet.



... Phil

[peterw...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much. After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

[John-Del]

I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

[Stephen Wolstenholme]

I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
ruined the lubrication. The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
smoothly before assembly continued. A component replacement cost time
and time cost money!

Steve

--
http://www.npsnn.com

[Peter Jason]

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?

[John Robertson]

Cassette players use 'rubber' belts and 'tires' for various mechanical
drive sections. Most of these parts can probably be found, but it will
take some hunting...
In many cases the old rubber-like compound has turned to goo and first
needs to be cleaned out. Then take out your calipers/micrometer and
start measuring! To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out. Measurement is usually IC
(Inside Circumference) of the circle size of the measured string. Allow
a fudge factor and get at least one size smaller and one size larger
than you think you need to save time.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, 28 February 2019 12:33:59 UTC, pf...@aol.com wrote:

> On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabby wrote:
>
> >
> > Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.
>
> While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much.

I've never had that problem.

> After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

it doesn't flow like oil, but it's easily moved by squeezing, so will get in there albeit slower. It may suffice.

> However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA

not only is it long term stable, but unlike most lubes it doesn't break down into corrosive substances when electrified.


NT

[tabb...@gmail.com]

Rubber belts tends to have disintegrated, less often rubber pulleys too. Cheap stationery rubber bands are often good enough, but not always.


NT

[Phil Allison]

Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:

>
>
> I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
> arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
> took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
> the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
> it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
> ruined the lubrication.
>

** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.

For the simple reason it stops the pot working.

> The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
> smoothly before assembly continued.

** Pots with a nice. smooth feel have grease packed into the BEARING where the shaft rotates - usually clear silicone.




.... Phil

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *

You claimed it was the same as LPS2, IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.

When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust that it collects maybe not. Even if there are not say carbon particles in the environment, even dander and other types of dust, even though they MIGHT be electrically inert, they won't be when the humidity is high. If it is dander you can be sure there is is/are salt(s) in it. Much dust is dander.

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"Dubious that it would still be alive, much less at liberty. "

I say give him a gun and watch the fun...

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
something to do with that. "

Hair spray is much better, but don't use it on electronics.

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>" ** The propellant is CO2 "

Yup.

What you smell is what burns.

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"You have two choices with Phil, agree with him, or
ignore him. "

I have a third choice, I can be fifty times as vile without even trying.

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out."

I tried to do that mathematically. Like Oºo. The diameters and distance between.

It didn't work out. (pun optional)

[Phil Allison]

jurb is a cunt ...@gmail.com wrote:


> >"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *
>
> You claimed it was the same as LPS2,
>

** I did no such thing - you lying fuckwit.

IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.
>

** Utter BULLSHIT !!!!!!!!!!

ANYTHING that contains oil will make RF tuned circuits drift.

> When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off
> with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust
> that it collects maybe not.

** He says, while clutching at imaginary straws

- what a FUCKING NUT CASE !!

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.

For the simple reason it stops the pot working. "

They put that sh it in the shaft/bushing to get the "feel". Not in the whole thing obviously. It has a pretty high viscosity to say the least. Disassemble one like that and you see the shit is like wax.

[Peter Jason]

The little radio is working so well that I'll
leave off the lube for a while. The wheel is a
bit easier to twirl now.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohg...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
>filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
>high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
>returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
>how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
>it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
>the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
<https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases>
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] <https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795>

--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[gregz]

Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohg...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
>> filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
>> high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
>> returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
>> how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
>> it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
>> the guy happy.
>
> Maybe next time, try damping grease:
> <https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases>
> I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
> I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
> necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
> last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
> viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
> ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.
>
>
> [1] <https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795>

Been looking for something like damping grease.

Greg

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 3 Mar 2019 08:52:10 -0000 (UTC), gregz <ze...@comcast.net>
wrote:

If you're thinking of making your own, forget it. I tried and failed.
The trick is that it should not evaporate, not creep, and has to be
constant viscosity over a wide temperature range. If you read the
optics forums, you'll find that volatized thread lubricant, deposited
on the internal optics, is a really bad idea. This is not much of a
problem with electronic controls, except perhaps security cameras
inside waterproof domes. Creep is having the grease melt and drip all
over the front panel and the owners fingers. Constant viscosity is
needed to keep the controls from feeling loose when hot, and stuck
when cold. I gave up on making my own and over-paid for the real
stuff.

I suggest you NOT use silicone grease, which will creep and land on
the resistance material of a potentiometer or contacts of a switch.
Silicone grease is a good insulator and might produce a bad
connection, especially when mixed with dust and dirt. If this
happens, methinks the best cleaning solvents are hexane or Coleman
camp fuel which is about 25% hexane, and a soapy water cleanup.

[gregz]

For sliders that sit upright. The particular plastic rails seems
problematic. I tried everything I had including silicone damping fluid, not
on resistance part. The only thing that works is absolute clean, or Deoxit
after it's fully dried. I kept thinking some kind of thick stable grease.
Silicone with TFE nope. Got kit ordered.

Greg

[Peter Jason]

On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 08:32:56 -0000 (UTC), gregz

What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
on motherboards?

[John-Del]

I assume you mean heat conducting stuff? Way too viscous, but I don't know if it will creep (prob not).

[gregz]

My experience shows it dries up. Sure is messy.

Greg

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 5 Mar 2019 08:22:00 -0000 (UTC), gregz <ze...@comcast.net>
wrote:

>> What about the conducting stuff they use for CPUs
>> on motherboards?

>My experience shows it dries up. Sure is messy.
>Greg

Are you talking about "liquid metal" (gallium-indium) thermal paste?
<https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en>
The paste offers an improvement in thermal conductivity, but with some
issues. It rots aluminum heat sinks. It tends to run and drip when
hot, shorting out everything it touches. It's difficult to clean up.
It's expensive. I haven't tried liquid metal, but have cleaned up a
motherboard and video card where the customer applied some.

W/m*K
Diamond 1000
c-BN 740 (Cubic Boron Nitride)
h-BN 600 (Hexagonal Boron Nitride)
Silver 406
Copper 385
Gold 314
AlN 285 (aluminum nitride ceramic)
Aluminum 205
Graphite 200
Carbon 150
SiC 120
Brass 109
Indium 86
Liquid Metal 73 (Indium-gallium-tin)
ZnO 50 (zinc oxide)
Al2O3 25 (aluminum oxide ceramic)
Pastes 4.0
SilPad 2000 3.5
Circuit Works 1.84
Dow Corning 340 0.67

[Lucifer]

On Mon, 4 Mar 2019 14:51:11 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohg...@gmail.com>

I used contact cleaner to fix a noisy volume control in a
Commander telephone.