JVC TV model AV-2749S vertical size adjustment
Van Gardner
problem.
The problem is that the menu screens such as volume bars are
disappearing at the bottom of the screen. This also applies to any
programs he watches that are subtitled. About half of the subtitle is
cut off at the bottom of the screen.
I had him look for a height or vertical size pot on the back of the
set and on the circuit board. He said the only pots he saw were FOCUS
& SCREEN. Then it dawned on me that this set probably has a service
menu.
Does anyone know if this set has electronic adjustments and what is
the secret to getting to the service menu. He still has the original
remote control.
Thanks,
Van
john
The TV has a fault in the Vertical Deflection section most probably bad
filter caps.
Fix it first before attempting to adjust in the Service Menu.
Adjusting does not cure a fault.
kip
"Van Gardner" <van...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:84e8709e.02122...@posting.google.com...
David
for proper repair now before the vertical problem takes out many more
parts increasing the repair cost. Probably multiple high ESR
capacitors need found and replaced.
David
van...@worldnet.att.net (Van Gardner) wrote in message news:<84e8709e.02122...@posting.google.com>...
grimm
to access the service menu so can make this adjustment? It's a 13
year old set and used mostly for video games these days so I'm not
wanting to spend money to have it serviced. If I can't adjust it
myself then I will just live with it as is.
dkuh...@locl.net (David) wrote in message news:<68f82f5b.02122...@posting.google.com>...
john
Find the bad filter caps in the deflection circuit.
kip
"grimm" <b...@usa.net> wrote in message
news:462710d4.02122...@posting.google.com...
grimm
I take it in the guy doesn't just go in to the service menu and make
the adjustment himself? Were only talking about 3-4 lines at the top
and bottom here.
A doubt I will make things worse by making the adjustment. Sure if
the problem still exists that over time the problem will happen again.
But I don't really know that I will have the set for that long.
Do you know how to access the service menu on this set? If so please
share that info with me and let me make the decision of if I will take
it in to be serviced or not.
Thanks.
"john" <k...@istop.com> wrote in message news:<nKZO9.1849$lk3.10...@news.nnrp.ca>...
Sofie
Gosh.... why didn't I think of that..... instead of me spending 45 minutes
of shop labor to troubleshoot, find, and replace a handful of high esr
electrolytics..... all this time I could have just gone into the service
menu and adjusted out the problem and charged the customer for repair work
that I never did........ and in 2 months or less they would be back with a
more expensive vertical deflection failure that I could charge them for
AGAIN ......
....you certainly have to watch out for these clever service techs......
but as much as you don't trust them.... they have the experience, knowledge,
test equipment, tools and parts to do the repair job correctly.....
.....AND, they know how to access the service menu. ! !
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Jason D.
>How do you know that's what needs to be done? How do you know that if
>I take it in the guy doesn't just go in to the service menu and make
>the adjustment himself? Were only talking about 3-4 lines at the top
>and bottom here.
>
>A doubt I will make things worse by making the adjustment. Sure if
>the problem still exists that over time the problem will happen again.
> But I don't really know that I will have the set for that long.
>
This is exactly what happened to owners who didn't realize their
vertical is early warning that vertical IC is overheating and about to
blow because of dried up capacitor in that vertical circuit.
Just get tv in and ask them to replace that capacitor in vertical
circuit. Will only cost you a medium labor + a part.
JVC always fries vertical IC because of that capacitor cooking too
close to hot vertical IC heatsink. If caught early, cap only. If
not, vertical IC resistor, and cap oh, maybe diode.
Cheers,
Wizard
grimm
service techs are dishonest and not to be trusted. I just asked how
do you know it needs something more then a vertical adjustment and
that I don't want to have to pay someone to do that if that's all they
end up needing to do.
It's my TV...I bought and paid for it...and your acting as if I have
"no right" to access the service menu. That you "know" making the
adjustment to the vertical will cause an even worse problem. If this
is the case then why does a vertical adjust even exist in the service
menu?
Remember....this is a 13-year-old set and this did not just happen
yesterday. It's probably been a good 2-4 years it has been like this
and in that time it has not gotten gradually worse.
Are you telling me that the single act of adjusting my set so that the
3-4 lines at the top and bottom are adjusted back into the viewable
area will damage my set?
Or are you telling me that whatever is failed/failing can potentially
get worse regardless if the vertical is adjusted or not?
"Sofie" <so...@olypen.com> wrote in message news:<v0v8trl...@corp.supernews.com>...
grimm
we started to use the set to play video games. Who knows how many
years before that it actually happened. If what you say is the
case...that this is an "early warning sign" that something bad or
worse is going to happen...then shouldn't it have happened by now?
If not are your telling me that making a slight adjustment to the
vertical is going to light the fuse on this timebomb?
jp...@sympatico.ca (Jason D.) wrote in message news:<3e0fa57c....@news1.on.sympatico.ca>...
john
"grimm" <b...@usa.net> wrote in message
news:462710d4.02123...@posting.google.com...
Jason D.
>Like I've said before...I only noticed the problem 2-4 years ago when
>we started to use the set to play video games. Who knows how many
>years before that it actually happened. If what you say is the
>case...that this is an "early warning sign" that something bad or
>worse is going to happen...then shouldn't it have happened by now?
>
>If not are your telling me that making a slight adjustment to the
>vertical is going to light the fuse on this timebomb?
>
Why worry? Just in case is best thing to do. Also good time for tech
to dust out the set. High voltage power present is very strong static
attaction that draws in dust and coat everything inside. Not good
thing since heatsink needs surface area to radiate off heat, dust is a
pretty good insulator.
Trust me, I deal with JVC sets daily at our shop, 50% of them was
vertical problems of any kind. Ditto to Panasonic. I have yet to see
RCA come in with vertical issues. (!!) Other brands like Sharp,
Jutan, Daewoo, Toshiba and others still have issues with vertical but
not as often.
Pay less now or pay more later; pick one. Decent 27" sets are worth
fixing due to original and current cost for an 27" size especially if
current tube is still decent and crisp.
The difference in vertical reliablity was in heatsink size & type of
metal and vertical IC types. Steel is lousy, even excellent aluminum
is no good if too small. Ditto to too crowded circuit board, Both
times in JVC, almost all was steel heatsinks, especially in JVC D
series had too small aluminum vertical heatsinks. Same for solder
joints.
Oh, I had one poorly designed tv (cheap) had blew apart in sequence
when hot running vertical IC shorted out because of that slow cooked
capacitor for vertical. Cause: designer/bean counters omitted
flameproof resistor as an fuse for vertical's power. Note: Nearly all
TV's has this way for vertical IC to take power from flyback. Blew in
that order: vertical IC & cap, horizontal transistor (about $20 part),
stressed flyback transformer $70, shot voltage regulator, again $20
along with burned resistors, in all tv too much to rebuild for age and
value. Quoted that estimate to owner and flunked it for excessive
service.
When you are at shop with your JVC, ask them about how hot vertical
heatsinks run. I expect same answer, almost finger burning.
Secondly, JVC service mode settings aren't present in very old sets,
JVC started doing that in mid 1994's and RCA more eariler.
Thirdly, service setting is not as clear and it's easy to screw up
without service manual which needs to buy for about 70 from JVC and I
think it's already NLA considering this TV's age except the parts is
still available.
Cheers,
Wizard
Tom MacIntyre
>How do you know that's what needs to be done? How do you know that if
>I take it in the guy doesn't just go in to the service menu and make
>the adjustment himself? Were only talking about 3-4 lines at the top
>and bottom here.
>
>A doubt I will make things worse by making the adjustment. Sure if
>the problem still exists that over time the problem will happen again.
> But I don't really know that I will have the set for that long.
>
>Do you know how to access the service menu on this set? If so please
>share that info with me and let me make the decision of if I will take
>it in to be serviced or not.
>
>Thanks.
I'll tell you a little story about customers making adjustments. A guy
brought a set in with a vertical problem. I found the problem, but
when I had replaced the bad parts...no video. I determined where the
video was being lost, but was unable to find why at first, until I
noticed the sub-bright tweaker appeared to be down all the way. I
checked, and yes...that's where the video was gone. In addition, the
vertical was adjusted too high, and the gray-scale was a mile out,
requiring more time and labour cost. The guy almost priced the set
beyond repair by simply tweaking a few knobs without knowing what he
was doing.
You question in another post why the adjustments are there in the
first place. Well, they are there for the final tweaking; since there
is a range of difference in the various chassis, yokes, etc, any
tweaker or service menu adjustments are often for that purpose, to
compensate for the differences. When a unit develops faulty
components, they should be replaced. If the same factory settings of
tweaker pots or the service menu no longer result in a good picture,
the problem is almost certainly the failure of one or more parts.
Tom
grimm
the only advice I am getting is "take it to a service tech".
I called a couple of places today. They told me the same
thing....they could take a look at it but with it being such an old
set it is possible the parts that need to be replaced might not even
be available anymore.
I also looked at what it would cost to replace my tv. Today I can
pick up a new 27" JVC from the local Best Buy or Circuit City for only
$260. I could get something for even less if I went with another
brand.
It's usually a good rule of thumb that if something (especially
something this old) is going to cost greater then 50% to repair then
it would be to to replace with a new one then that money is better
spent investing in a new one.
The labor I was quoted was $55 and $60 an hour. Now IF parts need to
be replaced and IF they are available do you think it is LIKELY that
it can be done for less then $130 total? Do you think that is money
well spent on a system this old? One that could require another
repair just as expensive in the following year?
Tom MacIntyre
>OK...ok...everyone giving advice here seems to be a service tech and
>the only advice I am getting is "take it to a service tech".
>
>I called a couple of places today. They told me the same
>thing....they could take a look at it but with it being such an old
>set it is possible the parts that need to be replaced might not even
>be available anymore.
In this case that is unlikely. It is a reality for many repairs, but
not usually for what you describe. It is likely several generic
support parts, although it may be an obsolete jungle IC with bad
vertical drive circuitry. I doubt that the vertical IC is obsolete,
and it is unlikely that any IC is the cause of this.
>
>I also looked at what it would cost to replace my tv. Today I can
>pick up a new 27" JVC from the local Best Buy or Circuit City for only
>$260. I could get something for even less if I went with another
>brand.
Yes, we know. That is what we are up against as well trying to stay
alive in this business. :-) or :-( ...?
>
>It's usually a good rule of thumb that if something (especially
>something this old) is going to cost greater then 50% to repair then
>it would be to to replace with a new one then that money is better
>spent investing in a new one.
How old is it? I wonder what the track record for this set is?
>
>The labor I was quoted was $55 and $60 an hour. Now IF parts need to
>be replaced and IF they are available do you think it is LIKELY that
>it can be done for less then $130 total? Do you think that is money
>well spent on a system this old? One that could require another
>repair just as expensive in the following year?
Good questions. We don't get close to that per hour here, because the
cost of living is lower, we have a poor economy, etc. Somewhere where
it is more expensive to live, the higher labour becomes a reality, but
labour always must compete with replacement value; it's what the
market will bear. I can only guess, but those quotes likely mean they
can't be bothered, because they have better fish to fry. If I have
misjudged that, then I apologize, but from my viewpoint, having had
some involvement, and having decent financial insight, that is the way
I see it. There is always a possibility for a subsequent repair within
a year for any TV, and the age of it is the determining factor in
almost all cases as to whether it is worth doing the first one or the
followup.
The set is still usable, and I have one suggestion. If you are going
to get rid of it without repairing it, donate it to goodwill,
Salvation Army, a shop that will repair it and sell it, etc...it's not
time for the landfill yet. You might want to just keep it as a second
TV also. As you have pointed out, and it's true...it's yours to do
with what you want. :-)
Tom
Jason D.
<tom__ma...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>On 31 Dec 2002 14:03:04 -0800, b...@usa.net (grimm) wrote:
>
>>OK...ok...everyone giving advice here seems to be a service tech and
>>the only advice I am getting is "take it to a service tech".
>>
>>I called a couple of places today. They told me the same
>>thing....they could take a look at it but with it being such an old
>>set it is possible the parts that need to be replaced might not even
>>be available anymore.
>
>In this case that is unlikely. It is a reality for many repairs, but
>not usually for what you describe. It is likely several generic
>support parts, although it may be an obsolete jungle IC with bad
>vertical drive circuitry. I doubt that the vertical IC is obsolete,
>and it is unlikely that any IC is the cause of this.
Tom is right as I stated, vertical section especially the vertical IC
is standard part and replaceable. In your case it is capacitor or two
that is causing your problem. Shop you tried isn't ones I want to
bring my tv in. What is best is should take that tv in yourself and
leave both tv and estimate fee (usually $20). Shops can
pickup/deliver a set for a fee (usually 50 to 60) and give a estimate
when set is looked at.
We look at and fix sets all kinds new ones still in the box and
ancient ones like 15+ years old so on.
What kills the whole deal due to cost especially if set is very old or
tube bit worn and warrenty ran out; in this order: tube, flyback and
finally jungle or micro IC every of these said parts are expensive,
CRT most expensive, jungle or micro least. Vertical IC, transistors,
capaciators and other items like tuners are always rebuildable or
readily available.
Examples of our routine work.
1. I had estimated a Panasonic 32" tv (still shuddering at horrid
common chassis, same kind even in 20"!) requiring horizontal
transistor expensive part and can't be subbed due to strange design in
those panasonic chassis and required modification kit to prevent HOT
from blowing again. TV was 9 years old too and that what flunked the
estimate.
2. Few weeks back estimated a old decent JVC 27" tube pix quality is
still acceptable (1989) but no response to remote but tv otherwise
works great via front user buttons. Quickly tracked down to micro bad
IR input pin. (!!) Again customer refused. Oh, JVC still sells
parts like that! Very interesting failure but failures in micro or
jungle is very rare except Sharp sets. Ugh.
3. Citizen tv owner okayed regulator rebuild (six caps total & bit of
resoldering to correct regulator slamming to 160V and set shuts down,
caps to improve pix & increase reliablity.) for $110 + tax. Fixed and
pix is pretty good for that 1991 19" set.
4. I got a Hitachi 42" projector that was butchered by customer but I
determined it to be repairable after quick fixes to determine rest of
set for estimate of $350, and approved.
Tom, JVC sets are decent as good as RCA but JVC tend to die at hint of
surges, in fact I have two in progress to finish and surged JVC is
usually are dogs. Advise owners to put surge protector on all their
expensive electronics.
>>I also looked at what it would cost to replace my tv. Today I can
>>pick up a new 27" JVC from the local Best Buy or Circuit City for only
>>$260. I could get something for even less if I went with another
>>brand.
Low end JVC especially circuit boards still is same JVC quality as in
high end except for design is cut down and tube is bit cut rate. Get
mid-range JVC or mid RCA. Forget Samsung, Daewoo, Citizen, Sony etc.
One warning, careful that if you're shopping for RCA sets, make sure
is really made by RCA (easily seen on rear cover label where model #
and chassis numbers are. If not, these RCA sets were made by other
makers for RCA. Chassis numbers that begins with CTCxxx, ATCxxx are
RCA's, RCA projectors were PTKxxx also ATCxxx. RCA true flat crt sets
are relabeled also. RCA does not make true flat CRTs as far as I
know.
>Yes, we know. That is what we are up against as well trying to stay
>alive in this business. :-) or :-( ...?
Yup. Always but note that $280 is rather low for 27". I see that kind
for 20" or crappy 25" generics. Decent ones (mid range) starts from
350 and up, and needs the input cluster on rear for audio, s-video,
component input (DVD is here to stay. Playing DVDs via RF cable
doesn't cut the mustard. Tapes is starting to fade out, also inputs is
nice to have for those game consoles.) Preferably to have stereo for
enjoyable experience. Even 20" ones do have stereo speakers with said
stereo audio inputs, just look for one or special order it.
>How old is it? I wonder what the track record for this set is?
JVC is decent sets low, mid and high end and like RCA they all have
minor flaws but nothing impossible to fix.
JVC sets used either JVC or RCA CRTs we like RCA best for good yokes
and CRT decent life, JVC CRTs are still decent life too if lucky ones
have quiet yokes. If you have a buzzing JVC especially 27" of recent
manufacture date usually months old to 3 years old range, it's the
horrid yoke coil made by Samsung making that noise. We're
experimenting with two coats dipped in vanrish paint after cutting two
holes on inside where two plastic halves meets to let paint flow into
to coat inside. I have two dipped yokes waiting to try out after
holiday break. That was after few unsuccessful new yoke swaps from
JVC even still in warrenty repair!
JVC and RCA CRTs IN JVC sets are direct swap except RCA CRT for JVC
sets requires yoke wire adapter again available from JVC or take wires
and plug from old yoke and solder it to RCA yoke pins.
I'll keep everbody updated on this fix.
>>The labor I was quoted was $55 and $60 an hour. Now IF parts need to
Keep looking, Grimm.
Also shop must provide repair warrenty 90 days usually but we can deny
warrenty depending on particular case. IE water damage, drops etc.
Our shop charges per set adjusted case by case and we do provide
warrenty. This forces us to keep on feet to make sure repairs is 110%
to keep repeats rare.
>Good questions. We don't get close to that per hour here, because the
>The set is still usable, and I have one suggestion. If you are going
>to get rid of it without repairing it, donate it to goodwill,
>Salvation Army, a shop that will repair it and sell it, etc...it's not
>time for the landfill yet. You might want to just keep it as a second
>TV also. As you have pointed out, and it's true...it's yours to do
>with what you want. :-)
>
>Tom
Again, I prefer that sets kept in repair or given to others providing
chassis is easily repairable and CRT still decent pix. Landfill is
very limited capacity-wise and many are starting to refuse TVs and
monitors because of EPA rules coming in force in foreseenable future.
Cheers,
Wizard
grimm
> On 31 Dec 2002 14:03:04 -0800, b...@usa.net (grimm) wrote:
> >It's usually a good rule of thumb that if something (especially
> >something this old) is going to cost greater then 50% to repair then
> >it would be to to replace with a new one then that money is better
> >spent investing in a new one.
>
> How old is it? I wonder what the track record for this set is?
It's about 13 years old.
> The set is still usable, and I have one suggestion. If you are going
> to get rid of it without repairing it, donate it to goodwill,
> Salvation Army, a shop that will repair it and sell it, etc...it's not
> time for the landfill yet. You might want to just keep it as a second
> TV also. As you have pointed out, and it's true...it's yours to do
> with what you want. :-)
>
> Tom
The set is still VERY usable as it is. As I have said before the only
time it is even noticable is on "some" video games. It's not enough
of an issue to motivate me to take it to a shop and spend money to
fix. I was hoping for such a little thing that I could just tweak it
myself.
I seem to have hit a wall here though as no one is willing to part
with the info I need to do this. This is not something I am used to.
I hack and tweak my computer all the time and have hacked into my TiVo
as well. The information to do this is out there and people are
willing to share it...all with the understanding that if you have a
warranty you will void it and it is a possiblity that you may render
your piece of equipment useless.
I've been told that making the adjustment won't fix the "cause of the
problem" and that I should fix the "cause of the problem". But if I'm
not going to fix the cause of the problem due to all the factors I
have mentioned....then what harm is there in making the adjustment?
Yes, I understand the cause of the problem will still be there but it
will still be there regardless...right?
Jason D.
The dangerous part is the power supply box in any computer and you
haven't seen what tv or power supply looks like when opened let alone
finding bad parts. Tivo has bare power supply but you only did was
change hard drive and adjust key software on low voltage mainboard to
make your hacking successful.
>
>I've been told that making the adjustment won't fix the "cause of the
>problem" and that I should fix the "cause of the problem". But if I'm
>not going to fix the cause of the problem due to all the factors I
>have mentioned....then what harm is there in making the adjustment?
>Yes, I understand the cause of the problem will still be there but it
>will still be there regardless...right?
The point is you like to keep that set around till it dies and what
next? Chuck it or get it fixed bec crt is still good, in long run
cost much less to get it fixed now and for your safety.
The problem is the uninsulated lethal voltages on circuit boards in
all TV and monitors when back cover is removed. Off or on even
unplugged holds powerful charge in tube and certain capacitors that
really hurts or injure even death. I have gouges blown off on my
meter probes from those accidental short across charged medium sized
capacitor even killed other parts by accident through metal tools.
Say, if I ask you to indentify vertical circuit area, find faulty with
tools & fix a same type of vertical problem on a given set in half a
hour? Then test set & twreak adjustments before closing up on
isolated transformer (safety).
Key in successful fix is in the spotting and knowing specific
functions of key IC and few transistors. Twiddling in service mode or
twirling many unlabeled veriable resistors pots is last after checking
and repairing is performed.
My advice if you're really serious on fixing, my grave advice: Go
slow, Leave TV unplugged for several days before opening up. No point
in take off that fat red wire that goes to the suction cup on the TV
tube. Tube still hold charge around 29,000 volts. Have meter to make
sure your large capacitors is discharged before doing any repairs.
The vertical is pair of wires closer together at the mainboard plug
from the tube yoke coil. The other pair that is father apart is for
horizontal, Horizontal section has around 1,000V spikes when running.
1 2 3 4. This is rough location of pins for the yoke plug that
goes onto mainboard pins. 1 & 2 is for horizontal. 3 & 4 is for
vertical pins. Follow the tracks from that vertical pins to the
vertical IC. Near vertical IC there is a diode that is "pointing" in
electically connection to the capacitor That diode that is connected
to that capacitor also goes to the one of vertical IC pin. That's the
capacitor that is giving you blues. It's bit bigger than small
capacitors and on the capacitor's markings it says 100uF 35V or 220uF
35V. Find it and have the correct uF unit but uprate the working
voltage to 50V, preferably rated for temperature of 105C.
That capacitor acts as a battery in series for very short time to the
vertical IC power source to kick electron beam that completed whole
screen from bottom right corner back up there with around 50V kick
instead of normal 26V vertical power to upper left corner to begin
new scan.
That diode is for charging that capacitor for next kick by that
vertical IC. 60 times a second. Capacitor fades away with age &
heat from hot vertical IC heatsink that kick voltage decreases and top
screen edge gradually compresses down till noticeable. Not repaired
asap, vertical IC get stressed more and more finally blows in turn
burns open flameproof resistor for the vertical power, sometimes
shorts out the supply diode that is off the flyback for vertical
power. Sometimes you actually hear that failure as frying noise and
stinky.
Horizontal squealing along at 15.7KHz. But jungle IC kept both 60Hz
vertical rate and horizontal 15.7KHz in sync and at right timings to
inject video info via modulated triple electron beams group (red, blue
and green) create whole image twice from odd and even frame by
interlacing.
While you are preparing to fix yours, go to your liberary, several
books devotes to repairing TV stuff and bit of theory of operation,
pick one that is fairly recent book like 10 years or less. This will
HELP you lot.
Once again, Leave tv unplugged for few days to let charge drain away
in certain capacitor. Keep in view of that unplugged plug when
working inside that tv and that set must be buttoned up before
plugging in. Makes easier work on mainboard to untie few tied down
wires bundles noting where they're routed and unplug few wires to let
you prop up that board to expose solder side without tugging tight
those wires. Don't touch that fat red wire w/ suction cup.
Many capacitors are polarized, put it in same polarity.
Cheers,
Wizard
grimm
> The dangerous part is the power supply box in any computer and you
> haven't seen what tv or power supply looks like when opened let alone
> finding bad parts. Tivo has bare power supply but you only did was
> change hard drive and adjust key software on low voltage mainboard to
> make your hacking successful.
You are correct. But I did do something that voided my warranty and
could have potentialy rendered my TiVo useless. There are other more
extreme hacks that I could do IF I wanted to...the point is the info
is available if I choose to.
> The point is you like to keep that set around till it dies and what
> next? Chuck it or get it fixed bec crt is still good, in long run
> cost much less to get it fixed now and for your safety.
I don't think so....this set has given me a lot of good years and at
this age I don't think it is worth investing much more money into it.
I'll continue to use it till it goes bad and then replace it.
> The problem is the uninsulated lethal voltages on circuit boards in
> all TV and monitors when back cover is removed. Off or on even
> unplugged holds powerful charge in tube and certain capacitors that
> really hurts or injure even death. I have gouges blown off on my
> meter probes from those accidental short across charged medium sized
> capacitor even killed other parts by accident through metal tools.
I am not wanting to crack open my TV to fix this issue anymore then
I'm wanting to take it in to be serviced. The problem is not bad
enough for me to do either. All I have been asking is if there is a
service menu adjustment that will let me tweak the vertical and how
may I access it.
IF this was a newer set and IF the problem was worse and IF a new
replacement was more expensive then of course I would take it in to be
serviced. To me...with my set of circumstances it would not be
logical to throw more money at this TV for such a minor problem. I
understand that it would be cheaper to fix now then it would be to fix
later....but I'm not going to fix it later either.
Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:
>Does anyone know if this set has electronic adjustments and what is
>the secret to getting to the service menu. He still has the original
>remote control.
Come on people, give this guy a break ... by email if you have to.
Just remember how many times *you* have needed a small amount of info
and were denied it.
-- Franc Zabkar
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
Bill Jr
The vertical size pot is at location R432.
This means you will have to take the back off to get to it.
There is no service menu item for this adjustment.
The set is too old for those type adjustments in service menus.
Good Luck,
Bill Jr
"Franc Zabkar" <fza...@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3e14aac...@news.optusnet.com.au...
john
kip
"Franc Zabkar" <fza...@optussnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3e14aac...@news.optusnet.com.au...
john
He has been told twice that there is NO service menu
I really dont know what he is looking for maybe a driver
to remove the back or something.
kip
"Bill Jr" <bi...@nospam.usa2net.net> wrote in message
news:Z74R9.56767$j8.14...@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
Bill Jr
David
point it really should be repaired. Most manufactures very first use
of the service menus were 10 years ago, with very limited service menu
functions.
2. Impending expensive failure ANY day, even though you noticed it
first 2 years ago. The changes the last two years have probably
happened so slowly that you have not noticed how much more things have
changed. It will suddenly go past the failure critical point and take
out the entire vertical circuit.
3. Average total repair if you take the set in, $75 to $90 (or about
one days pay, per average US income). About 1/3rd the cost of a
decent replacement. The junk lower cost tv sets simply are not likely
to last 1/3rd as long as this one has.
David
b...@usa.net (grimm) wrote in message news:<462710d4.0301...@posting.google.com>...
grimm
> The vertical size pot is at location R432.
> This means you will have to take the back off to get to it.
> There is no service menu item for this adjustment.
> The set is too old for those type adjustments in service menus.
>
> Good Luck,
> Bill Jr
Thanks Bill....how refreshing...finally a straight answer to a straight question.
grimm
> He has been told twice that there is NO service menu
> I really dont know what he is looking for maybe a driver
> to remove the back or something.
Interesting coming from you John. In your first post to this thread
you said "Fix it first before attempting to adjust in the Service
Menu" which implies there is a Service menu.
In your next response to this thread you said, "Fix the fault and keep
out of the service menu" which again implies that there is indeed a
Service Menu.
Of all the responses to this thread I could find only one that said
there wasn't one (before Bill Jr.). Jason posted "JVC service mode
settings aren't present in very old sets, JVC started doing that in
mid 1994's and RCA more earlier".
I considered that....but also had to consider that no one else had
said any such thing or even replied in agreement. In fact just the
opposite....people like yourself insisting that we stay out of the
Service Menu.
Above you say "I really dont know what he is looking for..." and that
much is obvious. All I was looking for was a straightforward answer
to a straightforward question.
From the original post by Van "Does anyone know if this set has
electronic adjustments and what is the secret to getting to the
service menu." In my post I added that I too was having the same
problem and would like to know how to access the service menu.
Only two people (Jason and now Bill Jr.) took the time to give us the
answer we were looking for.
This is not to say that some of the other advice wasn't good
advice....because some of it was and some of it was educating. But it
did take a rather long time to get the answer.
grimm
David wrote:
> 1. Too old for a service menu. You have to open the tv up, at which
> point it really should be repaired. Most manufactures very first use
> of the service menus were 10 years ago, with very limited service menu
> functions.
Thanks
> 2. Impending expensive failure ANY day, even though you noticed it
> first 2 years ago. The changes the last two years have probably
> happened so slowly that you have not noticed how much more things have
> changed. It will suddenly go past the failure critical point and take
> out the entire vertical circuit.
Don't really think that's the case (not about the impending
failure...with a set this old that could always be the case). It's
actually been more then 2 years. That was the number I just threw out
without really thinking about it. We noticed it when we started to play
video games on it and now that I think about it that was 4 years ago at
the least. The problem today is still the same from 4 year ago. On
"some" games were data is placed at the edge of the top and bottom of
the screen a few lines are cut off.
> 3. Average total repair if you take the set in, $75 to $90 (or about
> one days pay, per average US income). About 1/3rd the cost of a
> decent replacement. The junk lower cost tv sets simply are not likely
> to last 1/3rd as long as this one has.
>
>
> David
If I'm being quoted $55-$65 an hour labor I would be shocked if I was
charged only $75 for all this work I'm being told that needs to be done.
But you could be right. But even IF I'm lucky enough and it's only
$75-$90 chances are high with a set this old (13 years) I could be
spending the same or more within the coming year on some other needed
repair.
But thanks...now armed with the knowledge from this discussion I know
that there is no service menu. For the minor problem I have it is not
worth me cracking open the set and it is also not worth me taking in and
paying to have it serviced...in my opinion. I'll continue to use it
as-is and if it's still working good when I get around to purchasing a
nice 36" set I'll move this one into the bedroom.
john
I had assumed that you had removed the back to look at least for a pot
failing that the set would have a service menu and if that was the case
KEEP out of it.
Fix the fault after all this thread is getting real old not to mention
boreing.
kip
"grimm" <b...@usa.net> wrote in message
news:462710d4.03010...@posting.google.com...