Anyone have a trick for getting Husqvarna chainsaw brake kickback spring back on?

[Danny D.]

A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
up to the task because we stripped the hold-down bolt threads:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7348/16576214195_edee2d2572_c.jpg

So I lent him my Husqvarna 18" chainsaw for chopping up the fallen trees:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg

End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
I think it happened exactly as this picture was taken, actually:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7333/16389857079_8bd6f14257_z.jpg

The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
chainsaw spinning drum:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7285/16388368248_c088a7f82c_c.jpg

I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
but the spring popped out of his slot in the process:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg

The problem now, is getting the kickback clamp spring back on:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7349/16574371231_5e52e56134_z.jpg

I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7281/16389735569_221282dc75_z.jpg

Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

[Phil Kangas]

"Danny D." >

> Anyone know the trick to get that
super strong spring back on?

Try sliding it down a thin strip of metal.

[Tom Miller]

"Danny D." <dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:mc3j5c$err$2...@dont-email.me...

Search on "coil spring compressor" for some ideas. I would use a couple of
washers with some tabs and a long screw, washer and nut to compress it.

[jurb...@gmail.com]

Fucking Christ. Take a Dremel tool and get rid of that shit and just run it. If you ain't strong enough to run a chainsaw, don't run a chainsaw.

Watch your balance, that's all.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 2/18/2015 10:24 PM, Tom Miller wrote:
>
>> Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?
>
> Search on "coil spring compressor" for some ideas. I would use a couple
> of washers with some tabs and a long screw, washer and nut to compress it.
>

Did you actually look at the pictures?

I'll admit, I only looked at one or two.
But, the bolt thing won't do much good
here.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

[Pico Rico]

"Danny D." <dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:mc3j5c$err$2...@dont-email.me...

do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 02:52:28 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:

>So I lent him my Husqvarna 18" chainsaw for chopping up the fallen trees:
> https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7455/16388696590_ca981a9d47_z.jpg

Model number please?

Looks familiar:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/chain-saws.jpg>
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Husqvarna-136-chain-saw.pdf.jpg>

Here's a video on how to do it:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gK7eKakMCz8>
He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.

--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

[Tom Miller]

"Stormin Mormon" <cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:tflFw.1774930$UR.7...@fx04.iad...

Sorry, I did not explain it clear enough for you to understand. The bolt is
outside of the spring. A tab on the edge of the washer goes to the inside of
the spring.

There might be better solutions that one could explore.

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 08:47:48 -0800:

> Model number please?
>
> Looks familiar:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/chain-saws.jpg>
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Husqvarna-136-chain-saw.pdf.jpg>
>
> Here's a video on how to do it:
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gK7eKakMCz8>
> He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.

Hi Jeff,
It's the Husqvarna 445, from the local Lowes and it's about a year
old. My neighbor, who is building that suspension bridge here in the
redwoods in your neck of the woods (a bit further north than you),
borrowed it, and chopped up a nice hard madrone (lovely wood) that
had fallen in the last pineapple express.

You probably lost a few antennas in recent weeks (we did).

Anyway, the video was very helpful. I'm amazed you actually found
that video, because it's EXACTLY what I need to do! You're utterly
amazing, and I don't say that all too lightly.

The video makes it look all so easy, but doesn't mention how fantastically
strong that spring is, and, that it flies out all over the place
(ask me how I know)...

I like the trick of bolting down a hold-down clamp, as that spring
has already bounced all over my garage this morning ...

[Danny D.]

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 08:08:56 -0500:

> I'll admit, I only looked at one or two.
> But, the bolt thing won't do much good
> here.

Chris understood. There's no room, really, for a "spring compressor".
I've done McPherson struts, and, this is NOTHING like that since
any flimsy metal that fits between the spring coils is NEVER gonna
compress that spring.

If you held that spring in between your fingers, for example, you'd
NEVER get it to compress visibly. It's also VERY BOUNCY so it sproings
all over the place, as you wrestle with leverage tools (e.g.,
long screwdrivers).

There's no room to get a C-clamp on the ends either, as both ends fit
into a recessed slot.

It's not a 0.5-second job, that's for sure.

[Danny D.]

Pico Rico wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 05:29:02 -0800:

> do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

If it was as easy as you're intimating, then this video that Jeff
kindly found, would never have been needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gK7eKakMCz8

That guy did it, and said, verbatim "I'm sure there is some official
way to do this, but, I don't know what it is ..."

There are two steps that are not intuitive how to do:
1. Compress the spring to get it in place without poking out an eye,
and,
2. Setting the chain brake into the unlock position since it has to
be in the locked position in order to get the spring in place.

Luckily, I know how, and it should work for me, and I'll report back
when I try it (after responding to these posts).

[Danny D.]

trader_4 wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 05:57:18 -0800:

> I've never had to do one of these. But the procedure for getting
> any spring like that back on is first to get as much room as possible.
> From the picture, the part that it pushes against is in it's most
> forward position, not retracted. IDK what it takes to get that to
> retract, but if it's retracted, then less compression of the spring
> will be necessary.

Thanks. I watched the video Jeff suggested, and I think that method
will work as the guy has overcome exactly the two problems that I need
to overcome, which are:

1. Compress the spring enough to get it to STAY in the slot
(It bounces all over the place because the amount of force is
akin to what it takes to move a refrigerator with one hand
pressed up against the bottom with the tip of a screwdriver.)

2. Reset the chain brake without the leverage afforded by the chainsaw
handle (you have no leverage and you need to spin a very hard to
spin little spoked wheel). The force necessary to spin the spoked
while is sort of like spinning a lag bolt with just the tip of
a screwdriver wedged into one of the hex crests.)

But, I'm pretty sure I can do it now, as I know *exactly* how not
do to it by now!

[Danny D.]

Tom Miller wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 14:51:26 -0500:

> Sorry, I did not explain it clear enough for you to understand. The bolt is
> outside of the spring. A tab on the edge of the washer goes to the inside of
> the spring.

I have compressed automotive springs, so, I know what you're talking about.
It's never gonna work in this particular case.

There's just no room and the spring is too strong for any metal that would
actually fit in between the coils and you can't touch the ends since they

fit into a recessed slot.

Here it is before it sprung:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7322/16388575300_6361db036e_c.jpg

Here is the after sprung:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7288/16389735629_1cf166b3b8_c.jpg

Plus, there is a fragile plastic insert that goes more than 1/3 of the
way through the one end.

Classic spring compressor?
Nope. Not gonna work at all.
But, it's a good idea for other applications.

[Danny D.]

TimR wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 11:08:42 -0800:

> Big C-clamp, maybe?
> You'd want to run a stiff rod in the center to keep it from jumping out.

I have a LOT of C clamps.
Normally, if you had the room, it might work, but, there is absolutely
no way *any* c-shaped spring compressor is gonna work in this application.

I think I have it though.

The trick is really simple, but it *has* to be done well:
1. You MUST hold down the spring somehow (otherwise it will sproing every time).
2. You MUST leverage on a teeny tiny spot at the END of the spring (only one end)!
3. You MUST then spin the dial, again with leverage on a single point, to
unlock the brake without the benefit of the huge brake lever on the saw.

Anyway, I think I have it now. I hope to report back success once I finish
responding to the posts (just in case a better idea pops up).

Thanks for the help and advice.

[Ralph Mowery]

"Jeff Liebermann" <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:jv2cea5lbuk7gci2n...@4ax.com...

>> Here's a video on how to do it:
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gK7eKakMCz8>
> He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.
>
>

As the fellow said there is probably an offical tool to do it. Sometimes it
would be nice to see the offical tool and the way the factory puts things
together. They probably use an expensive tool that is too much for a one
time job, so it is nice to know how to do it at home with minimal tools.

[Danny D.]

TimR wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 10:39:36 -0800:

> Just thinking out loud.
>
> Compress it all the way in a vise, run some thin steel wire down the inside
> and around, twist tightly.
>
> Shove the spring in place, cut the wire?
>
> Or, do you have a bar clamp? might be able to get the spring halfway
> in place, put the jaws of the bar clamp on it, turn the handle to compress.
> Good chance of it popping out and nailing you in the face though,
> might want to wear goggles.

That spring has popped out probably twenty or thirty times already, and,
when it flies, it flies.

I figured it out, with the help of Jeff's video which explained the two
details that I was lacking in my attempts.

I didn't use the method the guy used in the video; but I stole all his
ideas on what the critical danger spots were.

Instead of metal to hold the spring inside, I used packing tape.

I bolted the assembly into a vise and then leveraged with a 2-foot long
screwdriver on the end of the spring (all smaller sizes failed).

You'll notice I leveraged the OPPOSITE end that the guy did in the
video that Jeff kindly posted.

That leverage, along with the packing tape on the other end, got the spring
into the slot without the otherwise inevitable bouncing around the room
when the screwdriver inevitably slipped (the force is akin to tilting a
refrigerator with the tip of a screwdriver ... nothing you can't handle -
but when it slips, the spring goes flying).

Here's a re-enactment picture of how I got the spring in place!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg

Notice the screwdriver at bottom left instead of at top right (where the
video applied leverage with needle-nose pliers).

Now, it's time to spin the brake lock wheel, and I'll be done.
Thanks for all your advice!

[Danny D.]

Ralph Mowery wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 16:06:48 -0500:

> As the fellow said there is probably an offical tool to do it. Sometimes it
> would be nice to see the offical tool and the way the factory puts things
> together. They probably use an expensive tool that is too much for a one
> time job, so it is nice to know how to do it at home with minimal tools.

Yes. I agree. If Husqvarna supplies a video on how "they" get that spring
back in place, that would be informative.

Just as you suggested though, just *watching* the video that Jeff supplied
taught me to pay extra special attention to three things which were inhibiting
success.

Armed with that example, I found a *different* way to accomplish getting
the spring in place.

Instead of leveraging with pliers on the outside end of the spring, I
leveraged with a two-foot long screwdriver on the *inside* edge of the
spring.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg

And, I used a few wraps of strong packing tape to hold the spring in
place on the outside half:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8596/16389080810_da0b97e8ab_c.jpg

Now all I have to do is spin the wheel of fortune to the left of
that photo, which I'll probably do with a screwdriver or pliers
as the guy did in Jeff's wonderful video.

Thanks!

[et...@whidbey.com]

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 00:16:39 -0800 (PST), jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

>Fucking Christ. Take a Dremel tool and get rid of that shit and just run it. If you ain't strong enough to run a chainsaw, don't run a chainsaw.
>
>Watch your balance, that's all.

After watching a friend of mine using his Stihl saw with a chain brake
I knew how good they were and are. Every time he set his saw down he
would bump the brake with the back of his hand. That way the chain
never ran through the dirt. He told me his chains need sharpening way
less often since he got a saw with a brake. My Stihl has the brake and
a no tool chain adjustment. Both features are great. In over six years
of use I never experienced a serious kickback. Last summer though it
kicked back hard enough to get the bar about two feet from my face and
the brake stopped the chain before the motion of the bar stopped. I am
very impressed. But jurb, go ahead and senselessly remove any brake
you may have on any saw you own.
Eric

[Danny D.]

Pico Rico wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 05:29:02 -0800:

> do you have a neighbor that is a MAN?

Oren.

Can you do me a favor and send Pico Rico pictures of the garage door
springs and McPherson struts we've removed, replaced and compressed.

He seems to think that those of us endowed with small springs don't
also have far larger ones lurking around in our garage that need to
be wound ...

[Ralph Mowery]

"Danny D." <dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:mc5jq4$k1b$8...@dont-email.me...

.
>
> Armed with that example, I found a *different* way to accomplish getting
> the spring in place.
>
> Instead of leveraging with pliers on the outside end of the spring, I
> leveraged with a two-foot long screwdriver on the *inside* edge of the
> spring.
> https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg
>
> And, I used a few wraps of strong packing tape to hold the spring in
> place on the outside half:
> https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8596/16389080810_da0b97e8ab_c.jpg
>
> Now all I have to do is spin the wheel of fortune to the left of
> that photo, which I'll probably do with a screwdriver or pliers
> as the guy did in Jeff's wonderful video.
>

Sort of reminds me the first time I replaced the drum breaks on my car years
ago. I tried using a screwdriver and finally got the spring on after
several tries on each wheel. Just as the spring would get near where it was
suspose to be, it would slip off. Then next time I was at the auto store I
found a special tool that had a hook on it that would go over the stud.
Worked just fine the first time.

I wonder if the Husqvarna people use somethink like that , or if the spring
comes compressed with a string or wire holding it in the compressed state
and they cut the string when it is in place.

[Danny D.]

TimR wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 13:17:53 -0800:

> Also, instead of holding the saw and turning the brake with the needle
> nose jaws, I think I've had clamped the needlenose in the vice with
> the jaws slightly open and used both hands on the saw to twist the
> brake back locked.

Well, I chipped off the edge of the cast aluminum, trying to wedge
lever the spring into the unlocked position.

I think I'll hold tight, as I left the rest of the saw at my
neighbor's house.

I'm gonna try to see if I can temporarily assemble the brake on
top of the saw, and use the saw's own lever, to unlock it.

That seems safest, but, I won't go back to that neighbor 'till
tomorrow. Luckily, no trees need felling today ...

[Oren]

Sorry I can't today, I'm busy. I would gladly advise him to not let
his sprung spring poke his eye out after a spring sprung again.

The Jeff video appears to be the best and easiest method without a
special tool used by professionals - this is basic DIY stuff.

Your packing tape idea was interesting, so I figure it worked.

Pico doesn't live in Californication, USA ...

You and I are shade tree mechanics!

[Danny D.]

Ralph Mowery wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 17:49:33 -0500:

> Then next time I was at the auto store I
> found a special tool that had a hook on it

Heh heh., I have that tool with the little pigs' tail on the end.
Maybe.... just maybe ... it will fit.

[Oren]

I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set that is about to be
placed in service again for my drum brakes.

<http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST102B.jpg>

[Leif Neland]

Ralph Mowery udtrykte præcist:

(Sorry, my news server does not carry alt.home.repair)

>>
> Sort of reminds me the first time I replaced the drum breaks on my car
> years ago. I tried using a screwdriver and finally got the spring on after
> several tries on each wheel. Just as the spring would get near where it
> was suspose to be, it would slip off. Then next time I was at the auto
> store I found a special tool that had a hook on it that would go over the
> stud. Worked just fine the first time.
>

I can still get shudders thinking about when my father was changing the
front shock absorbers, and his home-made spring compressor slipped.
His finger(s) got stuck in the coil spring, and I had to help him get
it out. That really hurt, and I had thoughts about that I had to cut a
finger off...

It was about 40 years ago, a Ford Consul Corsair. (UK)

Leif

--
Je suis Charlie

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 15:27:28 -0800, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:

>I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set that is about to be
>placed in service again for my drum brakes.
>
><http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST102B.jpg>

Won't work. The problem is that one end of the spring has a nylon
prong thing blocking the center of the spring. Even if you could
compress the spring fully, there's no way to insert the nylon prong
thing with the brake spring compression pliers in place.

[Phil Kangas]

"Jeff Liebermann" <
> wrote in message

> On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 15:27:28 -0800, Oren <

> wrote:
>
>>I think you mean "brake pliers". I have a set
>>that is about to be
>>placed in service again for my drum brakes.
>>
>><http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST102B.jpg>
>
> Won't work. The problem is that one end of the
> spring has a nylon
> prong thing blocking the center of the spring.
> Even if you could
> compress the spring fully, there's no way to
> insert the nylon prong
> thing with the brake spring compression pliers
> in place.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann

LMAO at all the responses! The only way to install
it is to shoehorn it in. Go look in the silverware
drawer,
there may be a serving spoon in it with a rounded
end
of the handle to match the spring O.D. If the guy
in the
video can compress it with needle nose pliers then
you sure can compress it with a shoehorn type
tool!
Sure that spring is strong but not _that_ strong.
It is
after all seated into a magnesium cover, how
strong
is that cover? And with the needle nose plier
stunt,
the spring can only be inserted half way
putting a terrible strain on the lips of that mag.
pocket!
dannyd has already admitted to breaking his. So,
good luck to you guys out there, I'm gonna shut my
trap now and enjoy the comments... ;>)} BTDT

[Danny D.]

Phil Kangas wrote, on Fri, 20 Feb 2015 15:45:43 -0500:

> dannyd has already admitted to breaking his. So,
> good luck to you guys out there, I'm gonna shut my
> trap now and enjoy the comments... ;>)} BTDT

Well, I undid the tape and tried to straighten the spring
in the saw itself, using the brake as the lever.

But, I had to have the cover on halfway only (because
it wouldn't fit over the drum due to the brake itself
being contracted).

And the spring sprung.

So, now I'm back at the beginning.
Step 1 is relatively easy (which is getting the spring in
place). It's step 2 that's hard (loosening the brake).

Will try again, but, with Jeff's video, I know what to do.
It just has to be done without damaging the cover more than
I already have.

[Danny D.]

Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 00:03:37 +0000:

> And the spring sprung.

Ah, I see where I went wrong!

Look at this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usP5XaXO7-8

The two steps are:
1. Getting the spring in (not too hard, once you get the hang of it).
2. Unlocking the chain brake (this is the harder part).

What he did differently is that he left the duct tape on
when using the chain brake to unlock the spring.

I agree with him when he said at 1 minute and 35 seconds "good fuckin' luck"
using the pliers to spin the chain lock clockwise to unlock the brake.

I'm gonna try again, using the prybar method to get the spring
in, and then the duct-tape method when unlocking the brake.

[Danny D.]

Ralph Mowery wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 17:49:33 -0500:

> I wonder if the Husqvarna people use somethink like that

This is most likely the shape of the tool used to spin
the brake release wheel!

1. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7439/16595963175_f4604227cf_b.jpg
2. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7391/16594779561_196d987d3c_b.jpg
3. https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8677/16594779481_f7921a12ae_b.jpg

Those are screenshots from this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=KfQDjDBdq0Y#t=255

What the guy did was sacrifice a hole saw, by notching it
to fit the chain brake spoke wheel.

That seems to be the easiest method of all.

[Danny D.]

Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 00:39:04 +0000:

> This is most likely the shape of the tool used to spin
> the brake release wheel!

This is apparently the "official" method:
http://blog.vminnovations.com/how-to-reset-husqvarna-chain-brake-fix-stuck-or-locked-brake-problem/

It seems so easy in that video.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 00:24:44 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Ah, I see where I went wrong!
>
>Look at this video:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usP5XaXO7-8
>
>The two steps are:
>1. Getting the spring in (not too hard, once you get the hang of it).
>2. Unlocking the chain brake (this is the harder part).
>
>What he did differently is that he left the duct tape on
>when using the chain brake to unlock the spring.
>
>I agree with him when he said at 1 minute and 35 seconds "good fuckin' luck"
>using the pliers to spin the chain lock clockwise to unlock the brake.
>
>I'm gonna try again, using the prybar method to get the spring
>in, and then the duct-tape method when unlocking the brake.

I've only done this once, about 10 years ago, on a similar Husky chain
brake mechanism. I had the same problem, where I couldn't compress
the spring because one end had a plastic center prong blocking any
kind of spring compression tool. So, I used some large pointed
pliers, similar to what was used in the video. I didn't think of
using a piece of scrap metal to old the spring in place, so I just put
a 2x4 over the spring, and LOOSLY clamped the sandwich in a bench
vice. The back end was propped up against the bench so that I could
apply pressure to compress the spring.

I had problems with the pliers, so I made a tool for the purpose. I
slipped a small hose clamp around the pliers and placed a nail ahead
of the hose clamp in the jaws of the pliers. The idea was that the
nail would provide something to push against two sides of the spring
while the hose clamp kept the nail from slipping. That worked.

For rotating the chain lock, I shoved two screwdrivers on opposite
sides of the mechanism, and rotated it with a larger third screwdriver
as a lever arm. It was clumsy, but worked well enough. Or, you can
make a special tool:
<http://www.doityourself.com/forum/outdoor-gasoline-electric-powered-equipment-small-engines/346696-husqvarna-460-chain-brake-stuck.html>

Of course, as soon as I released the bench vise jaws, the 2x4 fell
out, and the spring went flying. So, I did it again, this time
holding the 2x4 to the spring with a woodworking clamp. Eventually, I
was able to slither the spring cover between the spring and the 2x4,
reattach the screws, and live happily ever after.

These might also help:
<http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/18020/Husqvarna-s-built-in-chain-brake-problem-repair-how-to>
It's very long, but there's quite a bit of useful advice in there.
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/profile/>
Here's his method of spring compression:
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-14.jpg.html?o=40>

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Fri, 20 Feb 2015 20:28:20 -0800:

> Of course, as soon as I released the bench vise jaws, the 2x4 fell
> out, and the spring went flying. So, I did it again, this time
> holding the 2x4 to the spring with a woodworking clamp.

Hi Jeff,

I solved it, sort of like how you did, thanks to your help and
advice, and to the various suggestions in the videos (and to
one innovation on my own that was shown nowhere else).

While, in the end, I learned how to do it in just five
minutes, it took probably a dozen attempts overall to
come up with the following strategy using the four
hints below, one of which was never described anywhere
as I came up with it on my own).

TRICK #1: Make a cover plate (as described in one video):
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7453/16410601090_8172e71525_c.jpg

TRICK #2: Make a female star tool (as described in another video):
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7292/16411791159_84b7dd9775_c.jpg

TRICK #3: Remove the circlip & pry up (not described in any video):
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7289/16597628155_942786b3ea_z.jpg

TRICK #4: Only use the cover plate for HALF the procedure!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7282/15975460464_8dbabda7ea_z.jpg

After I built the tools for tricks #1 and 2, and after I came
up with the unique procedure for trick #3, the final task,
using trick #4 was trivially easy.

While coming up with the procedure took hours, if I were to
do it again tomorrow, with these tricks and tools, it would
take about five minutes, and probably work the very first time.

Thanks for all your help and advice. The video you provided
kicked off all the good ideas.

[Danny D.]

Oren wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 15:19:51 -0800:

> Your packing tape idea was interesting, so I figure it worked.

Hi Oren,

I had tried packing tape:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7306/16388881368_afb75a36fe_c.jpg

I tried electrical wire:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7284/16597630615_ff28f652dc_z.jpg

But, what worked best was making a temporary cover plate!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7453/16410601090_8172e71525_c.jpg

Even so, that cover plate only works for HALF the procedure!

The latter half, you use the original black plastic!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7351/16410598560_de1ffccf41_c.jpg

Of course, that black plastic idea only works if you make
a special female socket tool...
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7292/16411791159_84b7dd9775_c.jpg

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Fri, 20 Feb 2015 20:28:20 -0800:

> For rotating the chain lock, I shoved two screwdrivers on opposite
> sides of the mechanism, and rotated it with a larger third screwdriver
> as a lever arm. It was clumsy, but worked well enough.

Hi Jeff,

With a two-foot long pipe wrench and a special tool that I made,
rotating the chain lock turned out to be very easy!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8565/15977856143_8e2d399445_c.jpg

The problem was that the spring sprung the moment I removed
whatever it was that was holding down the spring!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7339/16410601870_363e06db33_c.jpg

I lost the spring EVERY SINGLE TIME I removed the covering holding
the spring down!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7289/16571648146_b3f917358b_c.jpg

The trick was to use the cover plate for only HALF the procedure!
Without the female socket I made, it wouldn't have worked.

But, once I realized how EASY it was to twist the chain lock
with the tool I made, I then realized that the easiest solution
was to put the black plastic holder back on first, and THEN twist
the chain lock.

Voila!

The secret is having the right tools, and knowing the right
sequence. For example, NOBODY came up with the idea of removing
the circlip, which turns out to be the EASIEST way to get the
spring into the first position.

I'll write up a textual HOWTO so others can benefit.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 05:03:48 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Thanks for all your help and advice. The video you provided
>kicked off all the good ideas.

Congrats. It might be helpful if I explain how I found the videos and
other relevant links. I did NOT use Google web search. I used Google
image search. Something like this:
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=husqvarna+chain+brake+repair>
Use your imagination for the buzzwords, but what's important are the
pictures. Select anything that looks useful and see what appears.
Same with YouTube videos.
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=husqvarna+chainsaw+brake+repair>
Trying to do the same with a text search is much less useful.


Incidentally, I just blundered across this video on the 455 that
claims there's a "special tool" for reinstalling the brake spring.
I'll ask the local dealer or rep for the specifics. It's no in the
catalog.
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjaVFLII4DE>

[Danny D.]

Danny D. wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 02:52:28 +0000:

> Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?

Here's the 5-minute sequence, in a nutshell, once you know how to do it!
- Remove the star-wheel circlip & position the spring in the slot.
- Screw the temporary cover plate on (which holds the spring down).
- Leverage the spring into position #1 (bent) with an 18-inch screwdriver.
- Replace the circlip.
- Remove the temporary cover plate (hold the spring down with your hands).
- Replace the permanent plastic cover plates (watch the rubber post!).
- Spin the star wheel into position #2 (straight) using a special socket.
- Voila!

Here's a more detailed pictorial DIY.
It's easy, once you know these tricks and make the special tools!

1. Fabricate a female socket for the chainlock star wheel:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7395/16411792279_46ddab4f57_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7397/16410603900_02b4cddeca_c.jpg

Note: Forget about standard drum brake tools; they don't fit:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7339/16410598970_33a26618e9_c.jpg

2. Fabricate a hold-down plate for 1/2 the spring tensioning:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7453/16410601090_8172e71525_c.jpg

3. Lock the magnesium clutch plate upright in a vise and remove
the circlip and pry up with an 18-inch screwdriver:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8571/16411787569_765c0f3a41_z.jpg

4. Replace the circlip once you have the spring in the 1st position:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7290/15977854503_6993ccff87_z.jpg

5. REMOVE THE TEMPORARY COVER PLATE!
You can finish the job without removing the plate, but you'll
lose the spring a half dozen times before you realize the folly
of trying to get the spring into the second position with the
cover plate on! If you're VERY LUCKY, you can get the cover
plate off with the spring in the straight (second) position,
but you MUST be very lucky for it to stay in place:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8579/16596438151_34b09b602e_z.jpg

6. Instead, remove the cover plate while the spring is in the
first position and replace the black original plastic cover:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7351/16410598560_de1ffccf41_c.jpg

NOTE: You can do this ONLY if you've made the special socket
tool described in step #1.

7. With an 18-inch pipe wrench, spin the chainlock into the
second (straight) position using the special socket tool
you made in step #1:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7282/15975460464_8dbabda7ea_z.jpg

8. Do not make the mistake I made, which is to forget to put the
rubber protection strip on the post UNDER the black plastic!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8580/15977853143_10b400741f_z.jpg

I had it all done, and had to do it over again because of
that simple faux pas (you can see the rubber endcap in the
middle of this picture above; it's supposed to be inserted
under and through the black plastic, so it has to go on 1st!).

In summary, the tricks that make this task easy are:

A. The socket tool allows you to spin the spring into the second
(straight) position while the black plastic is on. This is
immensely helpful because there is no danger of the spring
springing out when you try to move from the temporary cover
plate to the black plastic (ask me how I know this).

B. The cover plate is still useful, in the first stage of
spring compression, as it keeps both the spring in place,
and it keeps the circular friction clutch in position. With
tape and wire, the friction clutch moves out of position
and is impossible to get back in place due to the enormous
tension so you have to start all over again (ask me how I
know).

C. The cover plate is a hindrence for the second step, that of
straightening the mechanism, becuase that adds tremendous
additional tension, which springs the spring when you remove
the cover plate. So, best to NEVER remove it, by replacing
it with the permanent black plastic (ask me how I know).

D. The unique trick of removing the circlip makes pushing the
spring into the first position IMMENSELY EASY! There is no
easier way to get the spring into that first position (ask
me how I know). In all the videos, they left the circlip
in place, and tried to compress the spring from the other
end, but, it turns out to be easiest to PUSH on the spring
from the attached end. Putting the circlip back on is easy,
so the only danger is to be careful not to bend the brass
pin and not to lose the circlip retaining ring.

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Fri, 20 Feb 2015 21:45:30 -0800:

> Congrats. It might be helpful if I explain how I found the videos and
> other relevant links. I did NOT use Google web search. I used Google
> image search.

Hi Jeff,

Thanks. I understand your search mechanism, and I see how it would work.

I had searched google first and hadn't found the very nice videos you
found, which gave me the ideas of the star socket and the temporary
cover plate.

I came up with the idea of removing the circlip on my own, and you can
see in some of the videos what people thought of the idea of using the
needlenose pliers (fat chance).

With the combination of tricks, procedures, and special tools, the job
is actually *easy*, although I did it at least a dozen times, because
either the spring sprung out (most of the time) or I forgot to put the
rubber post *under* the black plastic.

Most of the trouble was getting the spring in place, and keeping it
there, which is why the tricks and tools were needed.

Thanks. I don't EVER want to do this again, but, if I do, I have the
tools and procedures to make it easy. The real trick is to NEVER remove
the clutch plate when the brake is on!

[Danny D.]

Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 05:46:47 +0000:

> Here's the 5-minute sequence, in a nutshell, once you know how to do it!
> - Remove the star-wheel circlip & position the spring in the slot.
> - Screw the temporary cover plate on (which holds the spring down).
> - Leverage the spring into position #1 (bent) with an 18-inch screwdriver.
> - Replace the circlip.
> - Remove the temporary cover plate (hold the spring down with your hands).
> - Replace the permanent plastic cover plates (watch the rubber post!).
> - Spin the star wheel into position #2 (straight) using a special socket.
> - Voila!

BTW, in case someone asks, it's IMPOSSIBLE to turn the star wheel
with just the special female socket tool.

It still takes a lot of force, which is *easy* to apply using an
18-inch pipe wrench on the socket tool.

But, without the pipe wrench leverage, you're never gonna spin that
star wheel.

Here's a list of tools required:
- Special temporary cover plate (to hold down the spring)
- Special female star socket tool (to spin the star wheel)
- 1/8th inch screwdriver (to remove & replace the circlip)
- #2 Philips screwdriver (to remove & replace the screws)
- 18-inch screwdriver (to leverage the spring to position #1)
- 18-inch pipe wrench (to leverage the spring to position #2)
- Vise (to hold everything in place - this is mandatory!)

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Fri, 20 Feb 2015 21:45:30 -0800:

> <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=husqvarna+chainsaw+brake+repair>
> Trying to do the same with a text search is much less useful.

That found this video, which, I must say, is doing things the hard way:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PIDvWmJEo4

[Jeff Liebermann]

Good find. I rather like the way he did it. However, he was lucky
that the spring didn't fly off. Actually, I don't really like the
screwdriver which might slip putting a hole in my other hand. I used
pliers, which will make a smaller hole.

I also don't like your "easy way" of pushing the spring from the other
end using the plastic parts. The spring could bend and break the
projecting white prong thing as it is bent into position. While it
takes more brute force to shove the spring in place as in the above
video, there's less risk to breaking plastic parts.

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 09:35:54 -0800:

> I also don't like your "easy way" of pushing the spring from the other
> end using the plastic parts. The spring could bend and break the
> projecting white prong thing as it is bent into position. While it
> takes more brute force to shove the spring in place as in the above
> video, there's less risk to breaking plastic parts.

Hi Jeff,

I don't disagree with you that there is a risk of breaking the nylon
insert.

The biggest risk, I would think, is that you have to do the procedure
about a dozen times before you realize the key elements to avoid, most
of which revolve around the spring bouncing all over the garage.

That spring flew into the air at least a half-dozen times on me, and,
I was amazed. You don't see it. You may hear it land, but each time it
flew, there was absolutely no way I could *see* where it went.

I'm surprised the thing moves that fast.

Today I cut a trail about 500 feet down a mountain. I have another
2000 feet or so to go, and I'll have a dandy shortcut! Whew! Time
to wash off that poison oak covering my body.

I have a secret formula:
1. I shower with Dawn detergent over every inch of my body (surfactant).
2. I splash a very dilute solution of bleach (to oxidize the alcohol/oil).
3. I soap down with Dawn (or Palmolive) again, to wash off the alcohol/oil.

Seems to work.

[Oren]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 08:01:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:

>That found this video, which, I must say, is doing things the hard way:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PIDvWmJEo4

Looked easy. I wonder how he lost part of his left thumb?

[Oren]

On Fri, 20 Feb 2015 21:45:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>
>Incidentally, I just blundered across this video on the 455 that
>claims there's a "special tool" for reinstalling the brake spring.
>I'll ask the local dealer or rep for the specifics. It's no in the
>catalog.

From your image link, I found this tool made to compress the spring.

"...made a tool up to compress the spring back in place. This works
with the handle off, with the handle on, with the brake spring in
place and the spring out with little effort."

<http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hardest-repair-ever-chain-brake-assembly.90197/page-2>

<https://tinyurl.com/qarvqr3>

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 21 Feb 2015 19:14:47 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:

>I don't disagree with you that there is a risk of breaking the nylon
>insert.

On later models, the nylon prong morphed into a metal equivalent:
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-17.jpg.html>
My guess(tm) is that this would not happen unless there was a problem.

>The biggest risk, I would think, is that you have to do the procedure
>about a dozen times before you realize the key elements to avoid, most
>of which revolve around the spring bouncing all over the garage.

I was wondering why some of the videos showed little effort involved
in retaining the spring after insertion, while others showed a major
nightmare keeping the spring from flying away. Looking at a few
videos, I found that all the springs had the ends filed flat as in:
<http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-15.jpg.html>
(Sorry, that's best I could find). Theoretically, that provides even
pressure to the case when the spring is inserted. However, the thin
part of the ground down spring end provides much less pressure than
the thicker part. The vertical part of the end of the slot in the
orange case, is also not quite vertical to allow for mold release.
That means that different orientations of the spring in the slot offer
different side pressure, which is what causes the spring to buckle and
fly away. With the heavy part of the ground down end on top, the
spring is pushed down, which keeps it from being launched. With the
heavy part of the ground down end at the bottom of the slot, the
spring will buckle out of the slot, causing the spring launches which
you experienced. However, if the end of the slot is radically off
vertical, the spring will buckle and launch, no matter how the spring
is rotated.

Insanity is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting
different results. If it doesn't work, either try something different
or stop to figure out why it's failing. Methinks "a dozen times" is
too many.

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 16:06:40 -0800:
> On later models, the nylon prong morphed into a metal equivalent:
> <http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-17.jpg.html>

That's a nice find, Jeff, as I would have expected the nylon post
to be too fragile also.

> I was wondering why some of the videos showed little effort involved
> in retaining the spring after insertion, while others showed a major
> nightmare keeping the spring from flying away.

Yup. For example, when I tried the chain-brake-lever trick, my spring
flew out from under the chain brake so fast I didn't even see where
it went. Yet, in the video, the guy made it look so easy (although,
it's a lot harder than he made it look to get the clutch plate on
when the brake is set. It's like trying to get a car drum on when
the drum brakes are in the set position.)

> I found that all the springs had the ends filed flat as in:
> <http://s51.photobucket.com/user/mantidontowel/media/husqvarna/032408offhusqcorespondprocdureil-15.jpg.html>

Yes. BOTH ends are filed flat on my spring also.

> However, the thin
> part of the ground down spring end provides much less pressure than
> the thicker part.

Very interesting (and astute) observation.

> That means that different orientations of the spring in the slot offer
> different side pressure, which is what causes the spring to buckle and
> fly away.

Makes a lot of sense.
Sometimes my spring stayed in relatively well; other times it flew off.

> Insanity is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting
> different results. If it doesn't work, either try something different
> or stop to figure out why it's failing. Methinks "a dozen times" is
> too many.

Ah, but *each* of the dozen times was using a different set of tools
and procedures. In the end, I think I came up with the *easiest* and
safest way possible, which borrowed heavily from the video you found,
but, which also added the unique element of "leveraging" the spring on
from the closed end (everyone else "compressed" the spring from the open
end).

I saw your post where you thought that might be dangerous, but, the spring
isn't compressed any more in either method, so, I think it's OK, as long
as there is a temporary cover plate.

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 22 Feb 2015 18:37:04 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<dannyd...@gmail.com> wrote:

>> However, the thin
>> part of the ground down spring end provides much less pressure than
>> the thicker part.
>
>Very interesting (and astute) observation.

In the distant past, I worked as a sewing machine "attachment maker"
in my father's garment factory. Such spring related problems were
part of the learning experience.

>Ah, but *each* of the dozen times was using a different set of tools
>and procedures.

After a dozen attempts, with different tools and procedures, perhaps
you might consider that something is wrong that does NOT involve the
tool or procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct,
beyond any need of checking, is usually the problem. In this case, it
was the rotation of the spring, which is never mentioned in any of the
videos or instructions.

>In the end, I think I came up with the *easiest* and
>safest way possible, which borrowed heavily from the video you found,
>but, which also added the unique element of "leveraging" the spring on
>from the closed end (everyone else "compressed" the spring from the open
>end).

It's possibly easier, but as I mentioned, carries the risk of breaking
the plastic prong if the spring is excessively bent on insertion.
There's quite a bit of force in the spring and only a little of that
is required to break the plastic prong.

>I saw your post where you thought that might be dangerous, but, the spring
>isn't compressed any more in either method, so, I think it's OK, as long
>as there is a temporary cover plate.

I don't have any problem exposing myself to danger. I'm considerably
more hesitant to do the same to readers trying to follow my
instructions. Think of it as litigation avoidance. Just pretend
you're writing the repair instructions for the teenage daughter of a
successful personal injury attorney.

The dangerous part is the requirement to hold the chain saw casing in
an area where the tool might land if it slips. It's considered a good
idea to think about where tools will land should they slip. I have a
few knife cuts on my left hand to assist in remembering this
principle. A vise won't work because it will tend to rotate as
pressure is applied. A backstop to push against (such as the bench
vise in one of the videos) is probably good enough, unless the casing
decides to rotate and go sideways.

[Oren]

On Sun, 22 Feb 2015 10:57:15 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>that something is wrong that does NOT involve the
>tool or procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct,
>beyond any need of checking, is usually the problem.

Occam's razor?

"...The principle states that among competing hypotheses, the one with
the fewest assumptions should be selected. Other, more complicated
solutions may ultimately prove correct, but擁n the absence of
certainty葉he fewer assumptions that are made, the better."

:)

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Sun, 22 Feb 2015 10:57:15 -0800:

> After a dozen attempts, with different tools and procedures, perhaps you
> might consider that something is wrong that does NOT involve the tool or
> procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct, beyond any need
> of checking, is usually the problem. In this case, it was the rotation of
> the spring, which is never mentioned in any of the videos or instructions

In hindsight, with a dozen of these attempts under my belt, my advice
would be to never remove the clutch plate when the chainsaw brake is in
the tightened position!

That's apparently the root of all the problems! (Inexperience.)

The second most important admonition is to NEVER REMOVE ANYTHING from
the clutch plate! All of us made the mistake of removing the spring
in our attempts to get it back in the locked position.

But, the trick is to MAKE THE SPECIAL SOCKET TOOL so that we can twist
the star wheel back into the unlocked position, without removing anything!

With those two tricks (i.e., experience), the job is easy because the
spring is never removed. The only step needed is the unlocking step.

Once the spring is actually removed, then TWO steps are required, namely
the insertion of the spring, and then the unlocking of the spring.

In the insertion step, a vise is (almost certainly) mandatory, as is
a temporary cover plate. Everyone but I compressed the spring from the
open end, simply because that was the only accessible end.

I made the closed end accessible by removing the retaining ring, which
allowed me to leverage the spring into place. Without a cover plate,
this would never have worked, so, that's why the cover plate is mandatory
if the spring is to be re-inserted.

Once the spring is inserted, then we're back to the trick of using the
star-shaped socket.

In summary, these are what I would have HOPED someone would have told
me, *before* I took the spring out in the first place! :)

[Danny D.]

Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Sun, 22 Feb 2015 10:57:15 -0800:

> Just pretend you're writing the
> repair instructions for the teenage daughter of a successful personal
> injury attorney.

:)

You really would like the inventors' lunch we go to in Palo Alto every
Wednesday at noon ....

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 22 Feb 2015 14:25:45 -0800, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:

>On Sun, 22 Feb 2015 10:57:15 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>wrote:
>
>>that something is wrong that does NOT involve the
>>tool or procedure? Hint: That which is most obviously correct,
>>beyond any need of checking, is usually the problem.

>Occam's razor?

No. It's my variation of Finagle's 3rd Law.
In any collection of data, the figure most obviously correct,
beyond all need of checking, is the mistake.

There are also corollaries:
- No person asked for assistance will see the mistake.
- Everyone who drifts by with unsought advice will see it immediately.

to which I've added:
- Nothing can be done to fix a problem until the blame is assigned.
- The person who identifies the problem will be sentenced to
overtime in order to fix the problem.
- Never blame the person who is expected to fix the problem.
Blaming the uninvolved, innocent, and those on vacation is
usually best.
- The application of an expensive, ugly, and marginal band aid to
fix a problem is preferred over admitting that there is a problem.
- Once the blame is assigned, this genie cannot be stuffed back
into its bottle.
- Blood, fire, and smoke are sure signs of a problem.
- When deciding on an approach, the prime criteria for acceptance
is determining which scheme will keep the phone from ringing.
- If one person can do something in one hour, two people will take
two hours, three people will take three hours, etc.

[Jeff Liebermann]

There are old inventors and bold inventors, but no old and bold
inventors. The successful inventors don't have time to attend
meetings. The losers talk about inventing things, but rarely go
further. Those that boldly go further, get sued for infringement. I
suspect that membership is therefore self-limiting to those that don't
invent anything.

I've attended writers guild meetings, where everyone talks about
writing, but nobody writes. I erratically attend ham radio meetings,
where few of those attending know which end of the soldering iron to
grab. I attended flying club meetings, where the main topic of
discussion were administrative matters, and not flying. At least when
I attend a concert, I can be certain that I'll hear some music. I
can't imagine what I would do at an inventors lunch meeting? Invent
something on the table cloth? If I'm expected to invent something
during lunch, I would need access to my reference material so that I
know what to steal.

The adage about the teenage daughter of the personal injury attorney
was told to me many years ago by a successful attorney in a discussion
on how to avoid ending up in court. So far, his advice has been quite
useful and accurate.

[Will Boyd]

replying to Danny D., Will Boyd wrote:
Be nice to know if Husqvarna makes a tool for it, but you can buy the entire
side (spring installed) for about $20 and the tool would probably cost that
much or more.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/anyone-have-a-trick-for-getting-husqvarna-chainsaw-brake-kic-824119-.htm