VCR won't rewind but plays
J. Wagner
go to eject the tape the tape gets tangled inside. I carefully opened up
the vcr and watched it as it went through it's eject mode and discovered
that the tape doesn't fully retract back into the case it just falls
loosely around the capsan and rollers. Am I correct to assume that this
problem is related to the vcr not rewinding the tape thus it's not
sucking it back in before ejecting the tape. Finally, anyone know if it's
worth getting this fixed....and just what exactly needs to be fixed....motor?
Thanks for the help!
WEBPA
carrier begins to rise. Your machine is evidently not actually turning
the reel tables at all as the guide posts retract. Two possible causes:
Linkage that connects the reel tables to the main drive motor is binding
and therefore fails to engage the clutches. Or, if the machine uses
rubber tires to transmit power, one or more could be glazed (hardened with
age and wear) so that it can't transmit torque to the reel table(s). It
is hard to do, but try to trick the mechanism into going through a
tape-load and unload cycle with no cassette present. Then watch the
linkages move. Try to figure out what should be moving in order to
connect the reel tables to the main motor, then see if it works. Bottom
line: use your creativity and powers of observation...In the end, you'll
probably have to try to find a shop manual. Good Luck.
we...@aol.com
Paul Weber
Albuquerque, NM
webpa
Sam Goldwasser
> I have an older NEC mono NEC VCR which plays tapes fine however when you
> go to eject the tape the tape gets tangled inside. I carefully opened up
> the vcr and watched it as it went through it's eject mode and discovered
> that the tape doesn't fully retract back into the case it just falls
> loosely around the capsan and rollers. Am I correct to assume that this
> problem is related to the vcr not rewinding the tape thus it's not
> sucking it back in before ejecting the tape. Finally, anyone know if it's
> worth getting this fixed..and just what exactly needs to be fixed....motor?
> Thanks for the help!
Repeat after me: idler, idler, idler,...idler. Since this comes up about
once a week, here are the cleaning etc. notes. Note that your problem could
be something else, but if general maintenance has not been doen in a couple
of years (or more) then this is the place to start epseically if it appears
to be trying to rewind the tape - i.e., making whirring noises but not
accomplishing anything.
General Guide to VCR Cleaning and Rubber Parts Replacement:
----------------------------------------------------------
All the guideposts, wheels, and rubber parts of a VCR should be cleaned
periodically - how often depends on usage. Of course, no one really does it
unless something goes wrong.
Do not attempt to clean the video heads until you read the procedure
below, you can break them - very expensive lesson. In most cases, they
do not need attention anyhow.
Qtips and alcohol (91% medicinal is ok, pure isopropyl is better. Avoid
rubbing alcohol especially if it contains any additives) can be used
everywhere except the video heads. Just dry quickly to avoid leaving
residue behind.
Cleaning may get your machine going well enough to get by until any replacement
rubber parts arrive.
Things to clean:
1. Capstan and pinch roller. These collect a lot of crud mostly oxide which
flakes off of (old rental) tapes. Use as many Q-tips (wet but not dripping
with alcohol) as necessary to remove all foreign matter from the capstan
(the shiny shaft that pulls the tape through the VCR for play and record).
Just don't get impatient and use something sharp - the crud will come off
with the Qtips and maybe some help from a fingernail.
Clean the pinch roller (presses against the capstan in Play and Record)
and until no more black stuff comes off. Use as many Qtips as necessary.
If the pinch roller is still hard and/or shiny, it will probably need
replacement. Many are available for about $6 from the sources listed
below. It is sometimes possible to put the pinch roller in an electric
drill, drill press, or lathe, and carefully file off the hard shiny dried
out rubber surface layer, but only use a last resort - and this fix is
probably temporary at best.
2. Various guideposts including the roller guides (the white rollers on metal
posts which are near the video head drum when in play or record mode).
When in FF or REW, or with no tape present, these move on tracks to
a position toward the front of the VCR.
3. Idler tire (idler swings between reels and transfers motor power to
reels - clean until no more black stuff comes off. A dirty or worn idler
tire is probably the single most common VCR problem.
If the idler tire appears cracked, glazed, or dried out, it will need to be
replaced. About $.50-$1.00. As a temporary measure, you can usually
turn the tire inside-out and replace it. The protected inner (now outer)
surface will grip well enough to restore functionality until a replacement
tire arrives - and verify the diagnosis as to the cause of your problem.
Also, the idler assembly includes a slip clutch. If this weakens, the
idler may not have enough force to press on the reel table edges. When in
doubt, the entire idler assembly is often available as a replacement part.
4. Reel table edges - surface on the reel tables where the idler contacts.
5. Audio/control head (right side) and full erase head (if you have one, left
side). Q-tips and alcohol are ok for these.
6. Anything else that the tape contacts on its exciting journey through your
machine.
7. Rubber belts. Access to some of these will probably require the removal
of the bottom cover. After noting where each belt goes, remove them
individually (if possible) and clean with alcohol and Qtips or lint free
cloth. Dry quickly to avoid degrading the rubber from contact with the
alcohol. If a belt is trapped by some assembly and not easy to remove,
use the Qtip on the belt and/or pulley in place. However, if it is
stretched, flabby, or damaged, you will need to figure out how to free it.
Any belts that appear loose, flabby or do not return instantly to
their relaxed size when stretched by 25% or so will need to be replaced
and may be the cause of your problems. Belts cost about $.30-$2.00
and complete replacement belt kits are often available by model for $3.-$12.
Meanwhile, the belts will function better once they are cleaned, maybe
just enough to get by until your replacements arrive.
8. Video heads: READ CAREFULLY.
While VCRs should be cleaned periodically, the video heads themselves
usually do not need cleaning unless you have been playing old or defective
rental tapes which may leave oxide deposits on the tips of the delicate
ferrite head chips. Unless you are experiencing video snow, intermittent
color, or loss of or intermittent HiFi sound (HiFi VCRs only, the HiFi
heads are located on the video head drum) leave the video heads alone.
I have used wet type cleaning head cleaning tapes with some success.
Follow the directions but wait sufficient time for everything to dry out
or you will have a tangled mess - 15 minutes or so should do it..
To clean by hand, you will need what are called 'head cleaning sticks'.
These are covered by chamois and are safest. DO NOT USE QTIPS (COTTON
SWABS). These can catch on the ferrite cores and damage them or leave
fibers stuck in the heads. Qtips can be used for cleaning the other
parts like the rollers and audio/control head as described above but
not video heads.
To use the cleaning stick, moisten it with head cleaner or alcohol.
Pure isopropyl is best, however, the 91% medicinal stuff is ok as long
as you dry everything pretty quickly. Don't flood it as it will take
a long time to dry and you run the risk of any water in the alcohol
sitting on surfaces and resulting in rust (very unlikely, but don't
take the chance).
Gently hold the flat portion of the chamois against the upper cylinder
where it is joined to the lower (non-rotating) cylinder. Rotate the upper
cylinder be hand so that the heads brush up against the moist
chamois. DO NOT MOVE THE HEAD CLEANING STICK UP AND DOWN - you
will break the fragile ferrite of the heads - $$$$. Side
to side is ok as long as you are gentle.
Depending on how dirty your heads are, a couple of passes may
be enough. Let everything dry out for at least 1/2 hour. This
process can be repeated. However, one pass will usually do it.
The following are good sources for consumer electronics replacement parts,
especially for VCRs, TVs, and other audio and video equipment:
MCM Electronics (VCR parts, Japanese semiconductors,
1-800-543-4330. tools, test equipment, audio, consumer
electronics including microwave oven parts
and electric range elements, etc.)
Dalbani (Excellent Japanese semiconductor source,
1-800-325-2264. VCR parts, other consumer electronics,)
Premium Parts (Very complete VCR parts, some tools, adapter
1-800-558-9572. cables, other replacement parts.)
--- sam
Kim Dykeman
: I have an older NEC mono NEC VCR which plays tapes fine however when you
: Thanks for the help!
I had the same problem not too long ago. Turned out to be the idler tire.
Since there was a lot of crud around it that would have had to be
removed to replace it, and a replacement was not readily available,
I found a temporary fix that is still working 6 months later.
At your local automotive parts store, they have some stuff that is
called "Belt Dressing" or something. It is supposed to be used
to condition slipping fan belts. I applied some of this to my
finger -ooh sticky- and rubbed it onto the tire. Distribute it
around the wheel, and allow it to set for a minute. This resolved
the problem for me.
As a second resource, brake fluid is an excellent rubber moisturizer.
Note that these should only be used if a proper solution is unavailable
or not really worth the trouble.
Lee Pollack
>: Thanks for the help!
I`ve found that you should NOT handle belts, pinch rollers,head drum assys,
and idler tires with your naturally oily fingers. Either wear thin rubber
or cotton gloves or clean your fingers with 99% alcohol. If the pinch roller
is really glazed, remove it and q-tip it with 99% iso. and lots of effort
until the rubber looks clean and dull (glaze removed) and feels porous and
grabby like new. Before going thru the MANY q-tips cleaning process, look
closely at the inner pinch roller bearing and move it around. If the race
moves slightly from side to side ,it`s shot and will cause excessive sound
wow and flutter no matter how well it`s cleaned. You can also try to move
the pinch roller from side to side while it`s still mounted in the machine
on the pinch roller shaft. This will give you a good idea of how bad
the bearing REALLY is. Even new pinch rollers can have a defective bearing--
I have gotten stuck with several so far.... Make sure that tape back tension
is not too heavy or light.If too light, the sound will fade in and out as
slack occurs during movement. If back tension is too heavy, the machine
stains it`s milk stretches the tape or simply shuts down. The supply reel
back tension arm and brake band work together and must be adjusted properly
for proper back tension. I tend to lean toward the loose end of the
adjustments for good performance. Without a tentelometer, I have to guess
at what works well with no damage. Occasionally, the reel table brake band
has to be changed as the cotton lining gets dirty and worn out. More later---
LEE