AA-sized conductor (fake battery) wanted
Eldor
I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
(N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
"configurable voltage" battery.
I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
level. I don't think it exists.
Thanks for any help
baron
Whats wrong with a piece of rolled up cardboard ?
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
D Yuniskis
> Hello all NG
>
> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
> "configurable voltage" battery.
>
> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
Many handheld radios are equipped with exactly this sort of
thing (i.e., I have a couple of such radios, each with a pair
of die-cast "fake batteries" -- nothing more than 0 ohm spacers).
This allows different battery technologies to be used in the
radio.
You could fabricate one using a length of copper pipe with
suitable "end caps" soldered on.
D Yuniskis
Cardboard isn't a very good conductor at low voltages :>
JW
Message id: <4d2edb51$0$77558$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com>:
How about this:
http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-ES2-Dummy-Battery-Energy/dp/B0000C5RR8
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43271-REG/Quantum_Instruments_ES2_ES2_Energy_Saver.html
William Sommerwerck
> http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-ES2-Dummy-Battery-Energy/dp/B0000C5RR8
>
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43271-REG/Quantum_Instruments_ES2_ES2_Energy_Saver.html
These would obviously do what the OP wanted -- though the price is not
right. One might solder lengths of copper tubing (which you can get at hobby
stores) to metal disks -- but I don't know how sturdy they'd be.
WARNING! The following is off-topic -- but worth thinking about.
These dummy cells are supposed to be energy savers, because they let you use
only three AA alkaline cells in a four-cell flash. This works, because most
flashes operate correctly with nicad or NiMH cells, which are nominally
1.25V (rather than the 1.5V of alkalines).
However, this is a great way to waste money -- and not just the cost of the
dummy cell. With only three cells in the flash, you won't be able to
discharge them to as low a voltage as you would with four. That means you'll
have to discard them sooner, and you'll get less total energy out of them.
PeterD
It is if you start with a piece of 18 AWG wire in the center!
Wild_Bill
reply already has.
That Shack store used to supply those with some of their products.. you
might see if they can get them for you.
D Yuniskis' comment refers to a fairly common usage, the dummy cells first
became popular when AA nicads batteries became commonly available.
Many portable devices were capable of being powered by AA cells, and since
nicad cells were only 1.2V, it required 10 of 'em to operate a device where
8 non-rechargeable cells of 1.5V would be adequate.
So, the equipment manufacturers made the dummy AA "fillers" available to
give the user the option of using nicads or conventional cells.
I believe all of the dummies that I've seen have been simple single-piece
zinc/aluminum alloy diecast items, with round ends and a flat bar center
section to make them more lightweight and cheaper to produce (using less
metal).
In recent years, when I've needed such fillers, I've formed them out of
heavy gage solid copper wire.
I'll start with a close spiral forming a flat disc shape, then move away
from it and form another one (with a center pip) at the other end. A
straight section in the center, separating two round flat discs the same
length as a AA cell.
Any metal washers or discs of the correct diameter with a rigid center
separator could be soldered together faster than forming one from solid 12
ga wire.
Brass, copper or plated steel parts would be adequate, and the center
doesn't need to be cylindrical.
When I was making an external power adapter for a camera, 4 AA cells were
arranged in 2 lengthwise pairs (4 cells, 2x2), so I used some nylon rod the
same diameter as the cells. I used a plated brass disk for the (-) terminal,
and an end cap from a glass fuse for the (+) top terminal.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Eldor" <el...@example.com> wrote in message
news:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
William Sommerwerck
> These dummy cells are supposed to be energy savers, because they
> let you use only three AA alkaline cells in a four-cell flash. This works,
> because most flashes operate correctly with nicad or NiMH cells, which
> are nominally 1.25V (rather than the 1.5V of alkalines).
> However, this is a great way to waste money -- and not just the cost
> of the dummy cell. With only three cells in the flash, you won't be able
> to discharge them to as low a voltage as you would with four. That means
> you'll have to discard them sooner, and you'll get less total energy out
of
> them.
I just called Quantum, and found out that these actually aren't "energy
savers" at all. In fact, there might be circuitry in them (which is why
there are two models).
If you own a Canon flash (I assume Nikons are the same) and have read the
wretched manual, you know that, when using an external power pack, you must
leave the AA cells in the flash, because they continue to power the control
circuitry. It appears that going from 4 cells to 3 reduces the drain on the
cells, and presumably extends their life.
Jim Yanik
news:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:
get a dowel of the same diameter as your batteries,cut to length of each
cell,cut a groove down the side,and put a copper wire in it,folded over and
curled around at the ends. if you wish,you can get fancy and epoxy the wire
down.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
Smitty Two
Eldor <el...@example.com> wrote:
As an alternative, Radio Shack and other suppliers have AA and AAA
battery holders, in say 3-cell and 4-cell configurations, with movable
contacts. This permits you to use different numbers of cells, or choose
between parallel and series configurations, just by slipping the stamped
metal contacts out of one groove and into another.
I designed a little gadget for a customer using a 4-cell AAA unit. I set
it up for 3-cell operation, and use the 4th slot for a small circuit
board. The boxes come with a cover and an integral ON-OFF switch. Pretty
handy. They're about $2 each at Radio Shack, and I pay about a $1 each
in 100 pc. qty. from Mouser, etc.
Jeff Liebermann
>I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
>so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
>(N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
>"configurable voltage" battery.
Find a dead AA battery. Make sure it's totally discharged. Wrap with
aluminum foil. Instant shorted battery.
If you want elegance, take a brass or aluminum shaft that's the same
diameter as the AA positive tip. Build up the diameter until it's the
same size as the AA outer diameter with cardboard, Duct Tape, or some
combination thereof. Maybe a wooden dowel center drilled for the
metal rod. Hide everything under some nice looking shrink tube. You
may need a wider negative contact area depending on the holder, so
adding a brass washer at the base might be useful.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
nesesu
> Eldor <el...@example.com> wrote innews:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:
Or drill a hole up the centre and put a nail through it cut accurately
to length.
Neil S.
Baron
Sorry ! My brain fart :-(
I meant to write "Whats wrong with a piece of alloy foil wrapped over
Meat Plow
Radio Shack used to sell them.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
D Yuniskis
Wrapping the foil might be tricky -- especially if it
*is* "foil" -- since you want a durable and reliable
contact surface yet can't really tolerate lumps, bumps,
etc. "Shrink-wrap-aluminum"! Now *that* would be
an idea! :> (not "shrink-WRAPPED-aluminum")
The ideal would be to turn a length of copper dowel to
the correct profile and then encase in shrink wrap.
But, I suspect the OP doesn't have access to a lathe
(though many people *have* lathes so "asking around"
could be an option -- note that the profile is probably
published as a standard someplace so it's just a matter
of getting someone to give you 3 minutes of time on a
lathe).
My "dummy cells" look like "I" beams in cross section.
I.e., imagine the top and bottom 1/10th of an inch of a
cell joined by a thick *sheet* of metal. Very obviously
castings and saved on material by not making them
solid cylinders.
Spehro Pefhany
You could probably adapt a AAA->AA adapter pretty easily. Cost < $1
each from China a couple at a time.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
Larry
"Eldor" <el...@example.com> wrote in message
news:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
Check at Home Depot for aluminum rod.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=aluminum+rod&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Larry
Eldor
Now I have a few things to try!!
:-D
baron
I've actually used rolled up cardboard and wrapped aluminium cooking
foil round it, folding the ends over to make contact surfaces. It
works quite well. I imagine that its current carrying capacity would
be quite low.
> The ideal would be to turn a length of copper dowel to
> the correct profile and then encase in shrink wrap.
> But, I suspect the OP doesn't have access to a lathe
> (though many people *have* lathes so "asking around"
> could be an option -- note that the profile is probably
> published as a standard someplace so it's just a matter
> of getting someone to give you 3 minutes of time on a
> lathe).
Actually a hacksaw and a short length of 0.5" or 13.0mm bar/rod cut to
2" or 51mm long would do !
> My "dummy cells" look like "I" beams in cross section.
> I.e., imagine the top and bottom 1/10th of an inch of a
> cell joined by a thick *sheet* of metal. Very obviously
> castings and saved on material by not making them
> solid cylinders.
I've seen something similar made from mazak alloy.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Michael A. Terrell
Why do you need a lathe? Just use a piece of drill rod the right
length, and insulate it if there is any chance of a short in the holder.
It isn't expensive and comes in a lot of sizes:
You could get some scrap 6 AWG solid copper wire and wrap it with
paper to make it the right size, if you don't want to use steel.
A piece of wood dowel, two brass screws and a piece of wire run from
end to end is the traditional method.
> My "dummy cells" look like "I" beams in cross section.
> I.e., imagine the top and bottom 1/10th of an inch of a
> cell joined by a thick *sheet* of metal. Very obviously
> castings and saved on material by not making them
> solid cylinders.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
Ian Field
"Eldor" <el...@example.com> wrote in message
news:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e...@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
Use a whiskered (shorted) NiCd cell.
D Yuniskis
My comment was intended more as "tongue-in-cheek" (I have a
friend that I *never* ask for things like this as he *would*
turn something on a lathe for me and I often end up embarassed
at the "excessive quality" of his solution! :> )
Some batteries (against which the "dummy" may mate) require
the little "nub" on the + end to ensure contact. Likewise,
some battery holders "guard" the + terminal with a bit of
raised plastic to protect against a battery installed backwards.
(i.e., a "flat surface" -- like the - terminal -- won't connect)
Jim Yanik
news:lo3Yo.23358$zr1....@newsfe10.ams2:
that could LEAK electrolyte.
Better to just cut a dowel to size,cut a slot for a wire from end to
end,fold over the ends,maybe epoxy in place.
Cheap,easy. follows the KISS principle.
Wild_Bill
handy folks, I think.
If some cells are arranged end-to-end in the equipment's battery holder,
placing the dowel version between 2 other cells would eliminate the need for
a more sophisticated top and bottom terminal, which some battery holders
actually require.
Additionally, it's about as lightweight as can be, and durable (won't
collapse or leak, etc).
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Jim Yanik" <jya...@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9E6DD3D6CE067...@216.168.3.44...
Baron
Us mechanical engineer types take great pride in our hobbies ! :-)
> Some batteries (against which the "dummy" may mate) require
> the little "nub" on the + end to ensure contact. Likewise,
> some battery holders "guard" the + terminal with a bit of
> raised plastic to protect against a battery installed backwards.
> (i.e., a "flat surface" -- like the - terminal -- won't connect)
Ah ! In that case you would need to turn it to produce the pip on one
end.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
D Yuniskis
>> My comment was intended more as "tongue-in-cheek" (I have a
>> friend that I *never* ask for things like this as he *would*
>> turn something on a lathe for me and I often end up embarassed
>> at the "excessive quality" of his solution! :> )
>
> Us mechanical engineer types take great pride in our hobbies ! :-)
Well, *he's* the mechanical type: lathe, end mill, surface grinder,
shadow graph, coil winder, etc.
Of course, another friend has a sinker EDM and a couple of wire EDM
machines... a bit too expensive to qualify as "toys" :-/
>> Some batteries (against which the "dummy" may mate) require
>> the little "nub" on the + end to ensure contact. Likewise,
>> some battery holders "guard" the + terminal with a bit of
>> raised plastic to protect against a battery installed backwards.
>> (i.e., a "flat surface" -- like the - terminal -- won't connect)
>
> Ah ! In that case you would need to turn it to produce the pip on one
> end.
Yes, that was why I suggested the lathe instead of just cutting drill
rod, etc.
Though, with copper, I think you could *almost* use a file as "cutting
tool" and a large electric (hand) drill to spin the work. Wouldn't have
much control over the dimension of the pip but I suspect you could
fashion a functional one in a few minutes. Heck, even putting a
slight taper on the one end would work!
Baron
> On 1/15/2011 10:46 AM, Baron wrote:
>>> My comment was intended more as "tongue-in-cheek" (I have a
>>> friend that I *never* ask for things like this as he *would*
>>> turn something on a lathe for me and I often end up embarassed
>>> at the "excessive quality" of his solution! :> )
>>
>> Us mechanical engineer types take great pride in our hobbies ! :-)
>
> Well, *he's* the mechanical type: lathe, end mill, surface grinder,
> shadow graph, coil winder, etc.
>
> Of course, another friend has a sinker EDM and a couple of wire EDM
> machines... a bit too expensive to qualify as "toys" :-/
>
Ooo ! I feel the green eyed monster coming on. :-)
>>> Some batteries (against which the "dummy" may mate) require
>>> the little "nub" on the + end to ensure contact. Likewise,
>>> some battery holders "guard" the + terminal with a bit of
>>> raised plastic to protect against a battery installed backwards.
>>> (i.e., a "flat surface" -- like the - terminal -- won't connect)
>>
>> Ah ! In that case you would need to turn it to produce the pip on one
>> end.
>
> Yes, that was why I suggested the lathe instead of just cutting drill
> rod, etc.
I wasn't aware of that limitation. Though my son just pointed out the
battery holder in the Wii was shaped so you couldn't put the battery in
backwards.
> Though, with copper, I think you could *almost* use a file as "cutting
> tool" and a large electric (hand) drill to spin the work. Wouldn't
> have much control over the dimension of the pip but I suspect you
> could fashion a functional one in a few minutes. Heck, even putting a
> slight taper on the one end would work!
Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged bolts.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
D Yuniskis
> D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
>
>> On 1/15/2011 10:46 AM, Baron wrote:
>>>> My comment was intended more as "tongue-in-cheek" (I have a
>>>> friend that I *never* ask for things like this as he *would*
>>>> turn something on a lathe for me and I often end up embarassed
>>>> at the "excessive quality" of his solution! :> )
>>>
>>> Us mechanical engineer types take great pride in our hobbies ! :-)
>>
>> Well, *he's* the mechanical type: lathe, end mill, surface grinder,
>> shadow graph, coil winder, etc.
>>
>> Of course, another friend has a sinker EDM and a couple of wire EDM
>> machines... a bit too expensive to qualify as "toys" :-/
>
> Ooo ! I feel the green eyed monster coming on. :-)
Yeah, when I hear complaints about all of my crap ^H^H^H er, *toys*,
I think about *these* sorts of things! :> The first friend (above)
gave me a 3KW FERRUPS (UPS) one day. I was trying to figure out how
to get it *into* the truck (weighed a couple hundred pounds... the
batteries alone weighed more than 100 pounds). He "disappeared".
And came back a few minutes later with a front-end loader, scooped
the UPS into the bucket and dropped it onto the truck.
Sheesh!
>>>> Some batteries (against which the "dummy" may mate) require
>>>> the little "nub" on the + end to ensure contact. Likewise,
>>>> some battery holders "guard" the + terminal with a bit of
>>>> raised plastic to protect against a battery installed backwards.
>>>> (i.e., a "flat surface" -- like the - terminal -- won't connect)
>>>
>>> Ah ! In that case you would need to turn it to produce the pip on one
>>> end.
>>
>> Yes, that was why I suggested the lathe instead of just cutting drill
>> rod, etc.
>
> I wasn't aware of that limitation. Though my son just pointed out the
> battery holder in the Wii was shaped so you couldn't put the battery in
> backwards.
Yes. It's the same sort of problem you face with "untabbed"
NiCd or Li cells. They don't always want to conduct abutted
"end to end".
Michael A. Terrell
Baron wrote:
>
> Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged bolts.
How rebolting! ;-)
Baron
> On 1/15/2011 2:20 PM, Baron wrote:
>> D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
>>
>>> On 1/15/2011 10:46 AM, Baron wrote:
>>>>> My comment was intended more as "tongue-in-cheek" (I have a
>>>>> friend that I *never* ask for things like this as he *would*
>>>>> turn something on a lathe for me and I often end up embarassed
>>>>> at the "excessive quality" of his solution! :> )
>>>>
>>>> Us mechanical engineer types take great pride in our hobbies ! :-)
>>>
>>> Well, *he's* the mechanical type: lathe, end mill, surface grinder,
>>> shadow graph, coil winder, etc.
>>>
>>> Of course, another friend has a sinker EDM and a couple of wire EDM
>>> machines... a bit too expensive to qualify as "toys" :-/
>>
>> Ooo ! I feel the green eyed monster coming on. :-)
>
> Yeah, when I hear complaints about all of my crap ^H^H^H er, *toys*,
> I think about *these* sorts of things! :> The first friend (above)
> gave me a 3KW FERRUPS (UPS) one day. I was trying to figure out how
> to get it *into* the truck (weighed a couple hundred pounds... the
> batteries alone weighed more than 100 pounds). He "disappeared".
> And came back a few minutes later with a front-end loader, scooped
> the UPS into the bucket and dropped it onto the truck.
>
> Sheesh!
Indeed. :-) In my case it would still be in the truck.
>>>>> Some batteries (against which the "dummy" may mate) require
>>>>> the little "nub" on the + end to ensure contact. Likewise,
>>>>> some battery holders "guard" the + terminal with a bit of
>>>>> raised plastic to protect against a battery installed backwards.
>>>>> (i.e., a "flat surface" -- like the - terminal -- won't connect)
>>>>
>>>> Ah ! In that case you would need to turn it to produce the pip on
>>>> one end.
>>>
>>> Yes, that was why I suggested the lathe instead of just cutting
>>> drill rod, etc.
>>
>> I wasn't aware of that limitation. Though my son just pointed out
>> the battery holder in the Wii was shaped so you couldn't put the
>> battery in backwards.
>
> Yes. It's the same sort of problem you face with "untabbed"
> NiCd or Li cells. They don't always want to conduct abutted
> "end to end".
>
>>> Though, with copper, I think you could *almost* use a file as
>>> "cutting
>>> tool" and a large electric (hand) drill to spin the work. Wouldn't
>>> have much control over the dimension of the pip but I suspect you
>>> could fashion a functional one in a few minutes. Heck, even putting
>>> a slight taper on the one end would work!
>>
>> Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged bolts.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
David Nebenzahl
> Baron wrote:
>>
>> Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged bolts.
>
> How rebolting! ;-)
Aaaaaah, the guy's nuts I say. Cross-threaded between the ears. Tapped
out, ready to die.
--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:
To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.
Baron
> On 1/15/2011 9:28 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>
>> Baron wrote:
>>>
>>> Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged bolts.
>>
>> How rebolting! ;-)
>
> Aaaaaah, the guy's nuts I say. Cross-threaded between the ears. Tapped
> out, ready to die.
>
Ooo Nasty. ;-)
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Michael A. Terrell
Baron wrote:
>
> D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
> >
> > I think about *these* sorts of things! :> The first friend (above)
> > gave me a 3KW FERRUPS (UPS) one day. I was trying to figure out how
> > to get it *into* the truck (weighed a couple hundred pounds... the
> > batteries alone weighed more than 100 pounds). He "disappeared".
> > And came back a few minutes later with a front-end loader, scooped
> > the UPS into the bucket and dropped it onto the truck.
> >
> > Sheesh!
>
> Indeed. :-) In my case it would still be in the truck.
You need one of these!
<http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-scissor-table-cart-93116.html>
Michael A. Terrell
David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> On 1/15/2011 9:28 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>
> > Baron wrote:
> >>
> >> Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged bolts.
> >
> > How rebolting! ;-)
>
> Aaaaaah, the guy's nuts I say. Cross-threaded between the ears. Tapped
> out, ready to die.
Left hand thread in a right handed world!
Baron
>
> Baron wrote:
>>
>> D Yuniskis Inscribed thus:
>> >
>> > Yeah, when I hear complaints about all of my crap ^H^H^H er,
>> > *toys*,
>> > I think about *these* sorts of things! :> The first friend
>> > (above)
>> > gave me a 3KW FERRUPS (UPS) one day. I was trying to figure out
>> > how to get it *into* the truck (weighed a couple hundred pounds...
>> > the
>> > batteries alone weighed more than 100 pounds). He "disappeared".
>> > And came back a few minutes later with a front-end loader, scooped
>> > the UPS into the bucket and dropped it onto the truck.
>> >
>> > Sheesh!
>>
>> Indeed. :-) In my case it would still be in the truck.
>
>
> You need one of these!
>
>
<http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-scissor-table-cart-93116.html>
>
Hey that looks nice ! Don't know what I would do with it ! But it
looks nice.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Baron
>
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
>>
>> On 1/15/2011 9:28 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>>
>> > Baron wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Very true ! A trick I've used to clean up the end of damaged
>> >> bolts.
>> >
>> > How rebolting! ;-)
>>
>> Aaaaaah, the guy's nuts I say. Cross-threaded between the ears.
>> Tapped out, ready to die.
>
>
> Left hand thread in a right handed world!
>
That reminds me of a little tale. Many many years ago, an apprentice
was given the task of drilling some holes in a piece of metal. He was
given a drill of the right size and told to get on with it.
He came back quite some time later with a very badly burnt and blunted
drill, a piece of metal with a burned depression in it.
The foreman had sneakily given the lad a left hand drill... :-)
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
D Yuniskis
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-scissor-table-cart-93116.html>
>
> Hey that looks nice ! Don't know what I would do with it ! But it
> looks nice.
Great for moving (light) pool (billiard) tables, pinball machines, etc.
Of course, the latter can be moved by a person with a suitably strong
*back*
Baron
Well that rules me out then ! ;-)
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Michael A. Terrell
Get heavy things from the bed of a pickup truck to your workbench.
You should have seen the fun Ihad unloading a 60 Gallon air comressor
from my truck last year. Two guys with a forklift loaded it, and slid
it all the way forward. I had to use a chain hoist to inch it back to
the tailgate, then lift it an inch above the bed before I pulled the
truck out. Then I lowered it to the ground and 'walked' it into my
shop.
Michael A. Terrell
The boy's not too sharp, I say! He tried to back up his hard drive
on the Xerox machine! ;-)
JW
wrote in Message id: <1mcui6d11u0epvqpf...@4ax.com>:
>Find a dead AA battery. Make sure it's totally discharged. Wrap with
>aluminum foil. Instant shorted battery.
I'd be worried that it'd start leaking.
Jeff Liebermann
Add another layer of aluminum foil wrap. It will take a while for the
electrolyte to eat its way through two layers of aluminum foil.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jim Yanik
> On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 06:13:55 -0500, JW <no...@dev.null> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 09:22:07 -0800 Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>>wrote in Message id: <1mcui6d11u0epvqpf...@4ax.com>:
>>
>>>Find a dead AA battery. Make sure it's totally discharged. Wrap with
>>>aluminum foil. Instant shorted battery.
>
>>I'd be worried that it'd start leaking.
>
> Add another layer of aluminum foil wrap. It will take a while for the
> electrolyte to eat its way through two layers of aluminum foil.
>
Foil can have pinholes. plus,you add more thickness with each layer of
foil.
Why take the risk?
Use a dowel with a longitudinal slot cut for a wire. You can make them with
just a hand saw.
Simple,long lasting,safe.
Angelo Campanella
> Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in
> news:jmv8j6dkku0eabtv7...@4ax.com:
>
>> On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 06:13:55 -0500, JW <no...@dev.null> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 09:22:07 -0800 Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>>>wrote in Message id: <1mcui6d11u0epvqpf...@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>>Find a dead AA battery. Make sure it's totally discharged. Wrap with
>>>>aluminum foil. Instant shorted battery.
>>
>>>I'd be worried that it'd start leaking.
>>
>> Add another layer of aluminum foil wrap. It will take a while for the
>> electrolyte to eat its way through two layers of aluminum foil.
>>
>
> Foil can have pinholes. plus,you add more thickness with each layer of
> foil.
>
> Why take the risk?
Easy: "bird;in-hand.....".
> Use a dowel with a longitudinal slot cut for a wire. You can make them
> with
> just a hand saw.
> Simple,long lasting,safe.
I suppose.
I just use a dead AA cell with a jumper.. foil is a neat alternate.
Ange
Jeff Liebermann
wrote:
>Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in
>news:jmv8j6dkku0eabtv7...@4ax.com:
>
>> On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 06:13:55 -0500, JW <no...@dev.null> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 09:22:07 -0800 Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
>>>wrote in Message id: <1mcui6d11u0epvqpf...@4ax.com>:
>>>
>>>>Find a dead AA battery. Make sure it's totally discharged. Wrap with
>>>>aluminum foil. Instant shorted battery.
>>
>>>I'd be worried that it'd start leaking.
>>
>> Add another layer of aluminum foil wrap. It will take a while for the
>> electrolyte to eat its way through two layers of aluminum foil.
>Foil can have pinholes. plus,you add more thickness with each layer of
>foil.
Embalm the 2 layers of aluminum foil with some tape or shrink tubing.
Maybe drill a hole in the negative end, heat the battery, and let any
liquid drain. There's always a way to make it work.
Incidentally, I always embalm my flashlight batteries in household
cellophane wrap because of the large number of leaky batteries that
have made my life interesting.
>Why take the risk?
Because I'm cheap and lazy. My suggestion was intended to be
sufficiently outrageous to not warrant serious consideration. I was
amused at the idea of someone asking how to create a dead short, which
is literally one of the easiest electronic components to fabricate.
Note that I also suggested core drilling a wooden dowel, shoving a
brass rod down the center, and soldering a brass washer on the
negative end. I have several like that, but with a different purpose.
Inserted in a battery pack, they act as a voltage monitor and
sometimes a battery eliminator connection point. I also have some
inserts setup for battery or device current measurement.
>Use a dowel with a longitudinal slot cut for a wire. You can make them with
>just a hand saw.
>Simple,long lasting,safe.
Yeah, but that's too easy and no fun. I just hate it when someone
takes me literally.
I once worked for a company that seemed to specialize in minimalist
design. At the time (before robotic assembly), the incremental cost
per component was a serious cost issue. Minimizing the component
count was a major part of the production engineering process. The
problem was that the dividing line between economical and outright
crude was difficult to define. Your dowel would be considered a good
economical solution, while my aluminum foil wrap would be considered a
kludge. Some of the abominations the came the failure to recognize
the distinction were scary. For example, when the device decided to
draw more than the rating on the 3 terminal regulator, instead of a
larger regulator, a resistor was simply added between the input and
output terminals.