Multiple Mutsubishi large TV problems
ToasterKing
not projection), model number CK-3530R. The problems follow:
1. Picture is very dark, even with the brightness turned all the way up.
I could not find a "sub-brightness" adjuster pot on any PCB inside the
set. Maybe I'm crazy and there isn't supposed to be one.
2. Focus problems. With the on-screen display displaying words on the
screen: The words drift out of and into focus as the picture changes. I
have tried adjusting the focus pots on the flyback transformer assembly
but they don't help.
3. Streaking. Wherever there is a well-defined outline on the screen, a
blue streak/haze will be projected from it to the right on the screen.
Anybody have any ideas on what the problem in this set could be? Is it
the flyback transformer or something else? ...Or do I have more than one
faulty component?
I'd really like to get this set working well but don't know too much
about TVs. It is only 9 years old and shouldn't be giving me this much
trouble already. Let me know of any ideas.
Thanks!
--
Please send a copy of your reply via e-mail, if it's not too much
trouble. :>
--
-=ToasterKing=-
Toast...@SPLATmindless.com
Please delete the word "SPLAT" from my email address to reply.
(Sorry for the inconvenience, but I do not receive SPAM and don't really
care to. I appreciate the extra effort it takes to delete one word.
Thanks!)
This message was posted on a Macintosh with Nuntius 2.0.4, if anyone
cares.
Tom MacIntyre
wrote:
>Hi there! I'm having multiple problems with a Mitsubishi 35" TV (CRT,
>not projection), model number CK-3530R. The problems follow:
>
>1. Picture is very dark, even with the brightness turned all the way up.
>I could not find a "sub-brightness" adjuster pot on any PCB inside the
>set. Maybe I'm crazy and there isn't supposed to be one.
>
>2. Focus problems. With the on-screen display displaying words on the
>screen: The words drift out of and into focus as the picture changes. I
>have tried adjusting the focus pots on the flyback transformer assembly
>but they don't help.
>
>3. Streaking. Wherever there is a well-defined outline on the screen, a
>blue streak/haze will be projected from it to the right on the screen.
>
>Anybody have any ideas on what the problem in this set could be? Is it
>the flyback transformer or something else? ...Or do I have more than one
>faulty component?
>
>I'd really like to get this set working well but don't know too much
>about TVs. It is only 9 years old and shouldn't be giving me this much
>trouble already. Let me know of any ideas.
>
>Thanks!
>
>--
>Please send a copy of your reply via e-mail, if it's not too much
>trouble. :>
You need to determine the HV, the G2 (may require some interpretation,
depending upon what it's measured with), the cathode DC voltages and
waveforms, and the heater voltages. Any of these could be causing your
problems.
Tom
ToasterKing
tmac...@ns.sympatico.ca writes:
>You need to determine the HV, the G2 (may require some interpretation,
>depending upon what it's measured with), the cathode DC voltages and
>waveforms, and the heater voltages. Any of these could be causing your
>problems.
>
>Tom
Thanks, but I don't know how to do all of that. I don't know where to
probe for those variables you mention, nor do I have access to an
oscilloscope. I was hoping it would simply be a defective part I could
replace.
Tom MacIntyre
wrote:
>In article <3768c81f...@news1.ns.sympatico.ca> Tom MacIntyre,
>tmac...@ns.sympatico.ca writes:
>>You need to determine the HV, the G2 (may require some interpretation,
>>depending upon what it's measured with), the cathode DC voltages and
>>waveforms, and the heater voltages. Any of these could be causing your
>>problems.
>>
>>Tom
>
>Thanks, but I don't know how to do all of that. I don't know where to
>probe for those variables you mention, nor do I have access to an
>oscilloscope. I was hoping it would simply be a defective part I could
>replace.
>
Arguably, you shouldn't be in there, but, since you are, at least read
the FAQ concerning safety. Along with, or prior to, the other things
mentioned, you need the CRT tested...a restore may be needed...or,
your cathode supply cap, usually near the FBTand 250 volts or so, may
have low value, high ESR, or be leaky. This is why, for the
unequipped, TV repair is hit-and-miss. If the cap is bad, swap in a
good one, and you luck out...be careful of the polarity when replacing
it.
Tom
David Kuhajda
Since the tv is 9 years old, it has by far exceeded the life expectancy of
the manfacture.
I noticed in the post, he cannot believe the tv is having problems after only
9 years!!!!
Currently, if you get 3 years out of a new tv set you are considered lucky
before your first repair, let alone 9 years.
The blue gun in these is always the first to go weak.
Typical estimate on these sets if you take it in is usually under $50 and
total repair aside from the picture tube runs under $250.
I use to have the same model, which now is in my sisters house. Still has an
A1 picture.
I did check, the picture tube new costs almost $3000 delivered from Mitz.
David
JURB6005
Well put, these things can't be over a hundred bucks or so !