Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Magnetic door holders question
886 views
Skip to first unread message
captainvi...@gmail.com
Feb 10, 2014, 12:32:26 PM2/10/14
to
I work on commercial fire alarm systems mostly in apartment houses. Many of these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units mounted on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors. When the doors are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet the doors are held open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers on them as well which are always applying a force in the opposite direction to try to close the door.
When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the pneumatic unit. This doesn't always work because in spite of the opposing force applied by the pneumatic unit, in many cases the electromagnets seem to hold enough residual magnetism to keep disks from releasing and the doors from closing. It often becomes necessary to increase the opposing pneumatic force tremendously in order to overcome this.
I have discussed this with various manufacturers of these electromagnetic units and in all but one instance have received the same bullshit answer that they've "never heard of this".
The one exception was one tech who ventured that perhaps momentarily reversing polarity on alarm before DC drop out might work, however he had never tried it. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks, Lenny
When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the pneumatic unit. This doesn't always work because in spite of the opposing force applied by the pneumatic unit, in many cases the electromagnets seem to hold enough residual magnetism to keep disks from releasing and the doors from closing. It often becomes necessary to increase the opposing pneumatic force tremendously in order to overcome this.
I have discussed this with various manufacturers of these electromagnetic units and in all but one instance have received the same bullshit answer that they've "never heard of this".
The one exception was one tech who ventured that perhaps momentarily reversing polarity on alarm before DC drop out might work, however he had never tried it. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks, Lenny
Ken
Feb 10, 2014, 12:38:58 PM2/10/14
to
coupling with the magnet? I would think you could find a point where it
would still hold the door when needed, and release it when 24v is removed.
Cydrome Leader
Feb 10, 2014, 1:16:35 PM2/10/14
to
the plate to add some space, or get somebody to "accidentally" paint over
the mating surfaces, although this is likely to make them stick as well.
hrho...@sbcglobal.net
Feb 10, 2014, 2:06:37 PM2/10/14
to
On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:32:26 AM UTC-6, captainvi...@gmail.com wrote:
> I work on commercial fire alarm systems mostly in apartment houses. Many of these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units mounted on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors. When the doors are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet the doors are held open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers on them as well which are always applying a force in the opposite direction to try to close the door. When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the pneumatic unit. This doesn't always work because in spite of the opposing force applied by the pneumatic unit, in many cases the electromagnets seem to hold enough residual magnetism to keep disks from releasing and the doors from closing. It often becomes necessary to increase the opposing pneumatic force tremendously in order to overcome this. I have discussed this with various manufacturers of these electromagnetic units and in all but one instance have received the same bullshit answer that they've "never heard of this". The one exception was one tech who ventured that perhaps momentarily reversing polarity on alarm before DC drop out might work, however he had never tried it. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks, Lenny
Ken and Cydrome's idea to put a thin spacer on the disc to make it easier to release sounds like a good idea. My experience has always been that the magnetism was not strong enough to hold the door open, not that it would not release.
> I work on commercial fire alarm systems mostly in apartment houses. Many of these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units mounted on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors. When the doors are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet the doors are held open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers on them as well which are always applying a force in the opposite direction to try to close the door. When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the pneumatic unit. This doesn't always work because in spite of the opposing force applied by the pneumatic unit, in many cases the electromagnets seem to hold enough residual magnetism to keep disks from releasing and the doors from closing. It often becomes necessary to increase the opposing pneumatic force tremendously in order to overcome this. I have discussed this with various manufacturers of these electromagnetic units and in all but one instance have received the same bullshit answer that they've "never heard of this". The one exception was one tech who ventured that perhaps momentarily reversing polarity on alarm before DC drop out might work, however he had never tried it. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks, Lenny
Tim R
Feb 10, 2014, 2:11:20 PM2/10/14
to
On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:06:37 PM UTC-5, hrho...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Ken and Cydrome's idea to put a thin spacer on the disc to make it easier to >release sounds like a good idea. My experience has always been that the >magnetism was not strong enough to hold the door open, not that it would not >release.
I've never seen this and I have a fair amount of experience with these doors in hospitals.
> Ken and Cydrome's idea to put a thin spacer on the disc to make it easier to >release sounds like a good idea. My experience has always been that the >magnetism was not strong enough to hold the door open, not that it would not >release.
It is more commonly hard to get them to stay open.
I would suspect a door closer problem first.
RobertMacy
Feb 10, 2014, 3:39:04 PM2/10/14
to
On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 10:32:26 -0700, <captainvi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> ...snip...
other is not a good idea. Add a 3 mil layer of kapton tape between the
two. the extra distance will prevent the 'residual' magnetism from having
enough strength to hold and keep the doors open. More likely difficulty
keeping them open.
>> ...snip...
> The one exception was one tech who ventured that perhaps momentarily
> reversing polarity on alarm before DC drop out might work, however he
> had never tried it. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks, Lenny
I've always found that having ferrous metal in a DC field touching each
> reversing polarity on alarm before DC drop out might work, however he
> had never tried it. Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks, Lenny
other is not a good idea. Add a 3 mil layer of kapton tape between the
two. the extra distance will prevent the 'residual' magnetism from having
enough strength to hold and keep the doors open. More likely difficulty
keeping them open.
Adrian Tuddenham
Feb 10, 2014, 3:47:02 PM2/10/14
to
however, it has one very big drawback:
The safety of the whole system depends on the doors closing if anything
goes wrong. If the wires were burned through, the control box would
lose contact with the magnets and could not demagnetise them. The
fail-safe aspect of the system would be lost.
The usual method is to insert a non-magnetic shim of some kind, but this
can wear down and fail after a few years. A more subtle way is to
abrade or machine down one of the pole faces so that it is not quite in
the same plane as the other. If these are 'pot' magnets, you could skim
a thou or so off the centre pole if you have access to a lathe.
Unfortunately this would destroy any anti-corrosion plating on the
metal, but that might not matter if the buildings are dry.
An alternative would be to 'dish' the armature plate so that the concave
side was towards the magnet. To do this you would need to take it off
the door and stand it outside on a solid foundation (or an anvil, if you
have one). A supporting ring to back up the outer edge can be
improvised from a piece of hard wood with a hole in it or a short offcut
of steel pipe. To dish it slightly you will need a steel bar or other
hard object with one end slightly rounded - and a sledge hammer to hit
it with. Try to do it in one hit, so as to avoid peening the surface.
--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
Cydrome Leader
Feb 10, 2014, 8:51:15 PM2/10/14
to
altering a safety device. A little tape here and there could have been
done by anybody who just didn't know better.
Granted, it's unlikely to cause the building to catch on fire, with the
doors stuck open killing everybody inside, but these are not really
devices to mess with. The door might just slam into somebody's face- you
never know.
While I may have done electrical work before, if it's conduit painted red
(at least here in Chicago this is common) or marked Life/Safety or L/S or
something similar, the rule is don't open it, don't touch it.
Michael A. Terrell
Feb 10, 2014, 11:46:09 PM2/10/14
to
can't fix the problem that you will post the video and details online,
in case of a fire. Put it some place like Youtube or Vimeo, where it is
sure to be seen by people and asked the OEM what it will do to their
reputation and their insurance costs.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
Adrian Tuddenham
Feb 11, 2014, 5:11:05 AM2/11/14
to
by a simple modification but this is prevented by the legislation which
is there to make things safer.
My biggest worry would be how such a badly-designed "safety" system with
an easily-recognised fault came to be made by a manufacturer who
presumably specialises in that field. Add to that, the inspection and
checking processes which must all have failed to pick up the problem.
It isn't as though D.C. electromagnetism is a new and unknown field full
of unsuspected effects - this problem has been well-understood for over
100 years.
Perhaps the O/P should contact the manufacturer and suggest they stamp
their armatures slightly concave in future.
Leif Neland
Feb 11, 2014, 5:55:15 AM2/11/14
to
captainvi...@gmail.com:
That should prevent the doors to get permanently magnetized.
I don't know if that'll make the doors/magnets hum though.
Leif
--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
> I work on commercial fire alarm systems mostly in apartment houses. Many of
> these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units mounted
> on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors. When the doors
> are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet the doors are held
> open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers on them as well which
> are always applying a force in the opposite direction to try to close the
> door.
>
> When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the doors
> are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the pneumatic
> unit.
Would it be possible to feed the electromagnets with 24V AC?
> these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units mounted
> on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors. When the doors
> are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet the doors are held
> open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers on them as well which
> are always applying a force in the opposite direction to try to close the
> door.
>
> When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the doors
> are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the pneumatic
> unit.
That should prevent the doors to get permanently magnetized.
I don't know if that'll make the doors/magnets hum though.
Leif
--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
Adrian Tuddenham
Feb 11, 2014, 7:49:12 AM2/11/14
to
Leif Neland <le...@neland.dk> wrote:
> captainvi...@gmail.com:
> > I work on commercial fire alarm systems mostly in apartment houses. Many
> > of these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units
> > mounted on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors.
> > When the doors are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet
> > the doors are held open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers
> > on them as well which are always applying a force in the opposite
> > direction to try to close the door.
> >
> > When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the
> > doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the
> > pneumatic unit.
>
> Would it be possible to feed the electromagnets with 24V AC?
>
> That should prevent the doors to get permanently magnetized.
[...]
> captainvi...@gmail.com:
> > I work on commercial fire alarm systems mostly in apartment houses. Many
> > of these buildings in the common hallways employ electromagnetic units
> > mounted on the walls and an iron disk on the back corner of the doors.
> > When the doors are opened and the disks are mated with the electromagnet
> > the doors are held open in place. These doors all have pneumatic closers
> > on them as well which are always applying a force in the opposite
> > direction to try to close the door.
> >
> > When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the
> > doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the
> > pneumatic unit.
>
> Would it be possible to feed the electromagnets with 24V AC?
>
> That should prevent the doors to get permanently magnetized.
A.C. magnets can also get stuck because of residual magnetism, depending
on whereabouts in the cycle the current is broken.
I occasionally have to file down areas of the pole faces of A.C.
contactors that have become polished through frequent use and have
started randomly sticking in the "on" position (highly embarrassing if
they control motors).
Cydrome Leader
Feb 11, 2014, 12:21:43 PM2/11/14
to
much voltage will likely cause them to be too strong.
Adrian Tuddenham
Feb 11, 2014, 2:11:58 PM2/11/14
to
magnetisation is above a certain minimum level, the residual is not much
affected by any extra energisation. The limit to the power source is
more likely to be the temperature rise of the energising coils.
I don't know how the O/P's system is arranged, but I think the UK ones
have the magnets in series around the building, so that the circuit can
be broken near any doorway and all the doors on that circuit will shut.
In that case the PSU would either be constant-current or would have a
transformer with adjustable tappings which can be set according to how
many magnets are in circuit.
captainvi...@gmail.com
Feb 11, 2014, 5:08:58 PM2/11/14
to
Each coil draws .015A at 24VDC. Putting them in series would not be practical especially in a large building. There are systems that use 120VAC coils but the circuits have to have the correct cable, (Romex) pre wired for them. Most buildings are wired using 18 or 16 AWG. FPLR low voltage cable for initiation and indicating circuits. You would not want to run 120V through these. Further, most fire alarm guys are certified in low voltage and although I wired my own house and I could certainly wire a 120V circuit, we are not electricians. For this reason all the door holders I've run into are the 24VDC variety.
I do like Michael's idea of video taping the failure and sending it to the manufacturer. Perhaps that will get them off their asses to come up with a solution. Lenny
I do like Michael's idea of video taping the failure and sending it to the manufacturer. Perhaps that will get them off their asses to come up with a solution. Lenny
John-Del
Feb 11, 2014, 5:55:18 PM2/11/14
to
Any chance the door closer arms can be relocated to have a better angle to act on the door? Maybe when the door is fully open, they're pulling "across" the door too much.
bud--
Feb 12, 2014, 10:39:00 AM2/12/14
to
On 2/11/2014 4:08 PM, captainvi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I do like Michael's idea of video taping the failure and sending it to the manufacturer. Perhaps that will get them off their asses to come up with a solution. Lenny
>
The panel and other components are likely UL listed. I would set a video
>
> I do like Michael's idea of video taping the failure and sending it to the manufacturer. Perhaps that will get them off their asses to come up with a solution. Lenny
>
to UL. May not help your immediate problem but could prevent similar
problems elsewhere in new installs.
Michael A. Terrell
Feb 12, 2014, 1:42:00 PM2/12/14
to
Adrian Tuddenham
Feb 12, 2014, 1:48:03 PM2/12/14
to
contactors with A.C. coils to be quite certain of that.
Michael A. Terrell
Feb 12, 2014, 7:36:36 PM2/12/14
to
Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> >
> > All I've seen in use, use AC to prevent this problem.
>
> ...except that A.C. doesn't prevent it. I've seen enough stuck
> contactors with A.C. coils to be quite certain of that.
They are not contactors. Some hold the door open for years between
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> >
> > All I've seen in use, use AC to prevent this problem.
>
> ...except that A.C. doesn't prevent it. I've seen enough stuck
> contactors with A.C. coils to be quite certain of that.
operations. Contactors get beat to death by repeatedly slamming the pole
piece into the metal on the moving contacts.
You're comparing apples to water melons.
Adrian Tuddenham
Feb 13, 2014, 5:50:45 AM2/13/14
to
> Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
> >
> > Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > All I've seen in use, use AC to prevent this problem.
> >
> > ...except that A.C. doesn't prevent it. I've seen enough stuck
> > contactors with A.C. coils to be quite certain of that.
>
>
> They are not contactors. Some hold the door open for years between
> operations. Contactors get beat to death by repeatedly slamming the pole
> piece into the metal on the moving contacts.
>
>
> You're comparing apples to water melons.
These D.C. magnets with flat pole faces are getting stuck because of
> >
> > Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > All I've seen in use, use AC to prevent this problem.
> >
> > ...except that A.C. doesn't prevent it. I've seen enough stuck
> > contactors with A.C. coils to be quite certain of that.
>
>
> They are not contactors. Some hold the door open for years between
> operations. Contactors get beat to death by repeatedly slamming the pole
> piece into the metal on the moving contacts.
>
>
> You're comparing apples to water melons.
residual magnetism - A.C. contactors with laminated pole faces which
have become hammered flat, get stuck in exactly the same way.
This is not because the contactors have had to do a lot of work in order
to develop flat pole faces, it is because the residual magnetism is the
same, regardless of whether it resulted from D.C. or the last half-cycle
of A.C.
Michael A. Terrell
Feb 13, 2014, 7:14:07 AM2/13/14
to
Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
> > >
> > > Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > All I've seen in use, use AC to prevent this problem.
> > >
> > > ...except that A.C. doesn't prevent it. I've seen enough stuck
> > > contactors with A.C. coils to be quite certain of that.
> >
> >
> > They are not contactors. Some hold the door open for years between
> > operations. Contactors get beat to death by repeatedly slamming the pole
> > piece into the metal on the moving contacts.
> >
> >
> > You're comparing apples to water melons.
>
> These D.C. magnets with flat pole faces are getting stuck because of
> residual magnetism - A.C. contactors with laminated pole faces which
> have become hammered flat, get stuck in exactly the same way.
>
> This is not because the contactors have had to do a lot of work in order
> to develop flat pole faces, it is because the residual magnetism is the
> same, regardless of whether it resulted from D.C. or the last half-cycle
> of A.C.
weights were pretty much foolproof. They didn't need electricity, and
there was little you could do to screw them up. Once they were moving,
you couldn't hold them open.
Those laminated contactors take thousands and thousands of operations
to flatten into a solid face.
Message has been deleted
ABLE1
Mar 23, 2014, 10:34:49 PM3/23/14
to
<captainvi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:70f7ee84-725c-48df...@googlegroups.com...
First the problem you are having is unusual. Since this is a commercial
fire panel it needs to be worked on by the servicing alarm company to make
any adjustment or corrections to the system. This is required by NFPA as
well as the AHJ in your jurisdiction. There are procedure that can
determine the cause and correction of such issues.
Personally I would be checking residual voltage at the mag door holders when
power is removed. Also checking the door plates to see if they are somehow
magnetized and applying the extra holding force you describe. Depending on
the above results there are certain device applications that can correct the
problem.
Also knowing the mfg, model and the vintage of the Fire Alarm Panel itself
could go along way to solving the problem. Again, doing work on a
Commercial Fire Panel needs to done by trained professionals. If you are
not, don't touch it.
Les
Tim R
Mar 25, 2014, 3:44:44 PM3/25/14
to
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 6:33:37 PM UTC-5, Mick Nowell wrote:
> Disconnect the PU from the door. Get a scale and see how much force it
>
> takes to open each unit.
>
> Before any modification I suggest exercising them. Pop each one open
>
> and "brillo" the oxidization/whatever on each surface. Repeat.
+1
All the speculation is based on the conclusion that residual magnetism is the problem, and that may be premature.
Turn the power off, take an ordinary piece of steel like a cover plate, and see if it sticks to the magnet. If it does (which I doubt) put a multimeter on it and confirm the power is really off. Then use the spring scale to see how hard the steel sticks.
Compare that to how hard it is to pull the door open.
> Disconnect the PU from the door. Get a scale and see how much force it
>
> takes to open each unit.
>
> Before any modification I suggest exercising them. Pop each one open
>
> and "brillo" the oxidization/whatever on each surface. Repeat.
+1
All the speculation is based on the conclusion that residual magnetism is the problem, and that may be premature.
Turn the power off, take an ordinary piece of steel like a cover plate, and see if it sticks to the magnet. If it does (which I doubt) put a multimeter on it and confirm the power is really off. Then use the spring scale to see how hard the steel sticks.
Compare that to how hard it is to pull the door open.
Tim R
Mar 25, 2014, 3:45:38 PM3/25/14
to
adide...@gmail.com
Jul 8, 2016, 1:43:18 AM7/8/16
to
Pat
Jul 8, 2016, 8:01:23 AM7/8/16
to
on the electromagnets instead of DC solve the problem?
Rheilly Phoull
Jul 8, 2016, 8:16:53 AM7/8/16
to
it fail safe. It would involve major rebuild costs to do that.
pf...@aol.com
Jul 8, 2016, 8:46:46 AM7/8/16
to
It has been my experience that these beasts fail in three typical ways:
a) they are so seldom checked that dirt accumulates under the leaf and cements the door in place (!!).
b) the plate rusts to the magnet.
c) see a) above but insert carpet.
All due to systematic and systemic negligence. Under my watch, such devices are tested weekly, typically on Friday at office (or school) closing. I have never seen residual magnetism sufficient to hold the door. Neither plate nor magnet has enough mass for that.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
a) they are so seldom checked that dirt accumulates under the leaf and cements the door in place (!!).
b) the plate rusts to the magnet.
c) see a) above but insert carpet.
All due to systematic and systemic negligence. Under my watch, such devices are tested weekly, typically on Friday at office (or school) closing. I have never seen residual magnetism sufficient to hold the door. Neither plate nor magnet has enough mass for that.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Pat
Jul 8, 2016, 9:14:22 AM7/8/16
to
dansabr...@yahoo.com
Jul 8, 2016, 9:25:09 AM7/8/16
to
> Remember the power in these systems comes from a backup battery to make
> it fail safe. It would involve major rebuild costs to do that.
As matter of fact, during a fire inspection we will trigger these doors in one of two ways: 1) Fire alarm trip and 2) power failure. In order for the facility to pass the inspection, both methods need to work.
Dan
legg
Jul 8, 2016, 9:37:33 AM7/8/16
to
<snip>
without a back-up battery. Fail safe is the de-energized state.
RL
>> I know this is an old post, but I find it interesting. Would using AC
>> on the electromagnets instead of DC solve the problem?
>>
>Remember the power in these systems comes from a backup battery to make
>it fail safe. It would involve major rebuild costs to do that.
For this service, loss of power would invoke the fail safe condition,
>> on the electromagnets instead of DC solve the problem?
>>
>Remember the power in these systems comes from a backup battery to make
>it fail safe. It would involve major rebuild costs to do that.
without a back-up battery. Fail safe is the de-energized state.
RL
legg
Jul 8, 2016, 10:42:43 AM7/8/16
to
unlikely to be the issue - so a different coil or drive method would
be unlikely to solve it, in an application where the installation has
been previously vetted. Fire doors have varying construction,
involving metalic or other heat resistant materials, but once
adjusted, performance should be repeatable.
It's much harder to get predictable performance from a pneumatic door
mechanism and the door it's controlling - without considering any
involvement from various external hold/release mechanisms. This is
complicated if staff are fiddling with the available adjustments at
their extremes, rather than examining other issues such a cleanliness,
lubrication or possible obstructions.
I understand his frustration, but safety critical features are best
addressed by those responsible for their installation and servicing.
This hardware operates on the principles of an electromagnet, as is
more commonly evident in solenoids and relays, so advice on their
operation is relevant.
RL
Jon Elson
Jul 8, 2016, 3:46:29 PM7/8/16
to
adide...@gmail.com wrote:
>> When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the
>> doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the
>> pneumatic unit. This doesn't always work
Try putting one layer of wide vinyl tape over either the electromagnet or
>> When the alarm is activated the 24VDC is removed from the coils and the
>> doors are supposed to be automatically pulled closed by the force of the
>> pneumatic unit. This doesn't always work
the door plate. (A couple parallel strips of ordinary electrician's tape
could also be used to test this idea.) If it now releases, remanent
magnetic field is certainly the problem. Possibly you could get a thin
durable material that could permanently replace the tape, which will
eventually wear down and cause the problem to recur.
Jon
Rheilly Phoull
Jul 8, 2016, 7:47:41 PM7/8/16
to
avag...@gmail.com
Jul 8, 2016, 8:16:35 PM7/8/16
to
Clean hinges with CRC Spray Silicone/\...use the spray as a cleaning hose..
then lube hinges with a drop or 2 of
http://www.3inone.com/images/3in1/product-lock-dry-lube.jpg
at HD
then lube hinges with a drop or 2 of
http://www.3inone.com/images/3in1/product-lock-dry-lube.jpg
at HD
0 new messages