Ev SX300 speaker problem

[N_Cook]

In for a horn problem, but also loose bits inside rattling around.
These are 2 coppery looking monkey metal flanges from the speaker bolt
"hank" bush/anchors into the plastic. They seem non functional, the
bolts will tighten without the remaining bush turning. 7 of the 8 bolts
would take a 1/4 turn tightening fully again. These flangey closers look
as though they are deformed in the tightening process and then burst
away at some point. Hammer and old chisel to break off the remaining six
? concerned about shearing the functional part of these monkey metal
bushes with hammering action.

[dansabr...@yahoo.com]

If these are what I recall from working on these in the past, they are what are called T-Nuts. They should be fine as is. I would replace the broken one only. These are common in speaker cabs to hold down the speakers.

Dan

[N_Cook]

On 10/02/2016 17:53, dansabr...@yahoo.com wrote:
> If these are what I recall from working on these in the past, they are what are called T-Nuts. They should be fine as is. I would replace the broken one only. These are common in speaker cabs to hold down the speakers.
>
> Dan
>

Yes T-nuts , well sort of, T nuts proper have flats and slide in
channels for moveable locking purposes.
I should have said they were surrounding the bass driver, not the horn.
I don't remember seeing them before. Perhaps cast aluminium , rather
than junk zinc-heavy metal. At least not magnetic , but with much van
travelling , and being conductive metal, they could land up somewhere
they shouldn't. I think I'll try removing one of the complete six bolts
, insert a ball bearing and then tighten the bolt, to burst the end off,
and repeat if it works. Then a spring washer under each bolt, nothing
like that on the original fitting

[Gareth Magennis]

"N_Cook" wrote in message news:n9fs9a$442$1...@dont-email.me...

I've tried to work out what you are saying here, but I am coming to the
conclusion that whatever you are describing is not OEM.
Perhaps someone has put some stuff in there

I have worked on a few EV SX300 and as far as the bass driver is concerned,
8 bolts go into 8 t-nuts embedded into the plastic housing.

It doesn't get much simpler than that.


Gareth.

[N_Cook]

My previous would not work, these are more like hank bushes, the barbs
bind , or not, into the plastic surround and those flanges provide the
reaction force, or not now.
I protectively knocked one of the broken ones out ; without the back
flange , the barbs will bite in more and bolts slacken until dropping
out with vibration, regardless of how much torque on the bolts. There is
no metal skirting in the plastic surround and eventually the barbed push
part would move until touching the speaker rim, so no anchoring.
I'll take a pic of these bush anchor things tomorrow and upload.
I'll run a large amount of hotmelt over the remaining 6 flanges, to
retain them in place if they break, and longer Allen head bolts and
washers and lock nuts for the broken 2 fixings.

[Gareth Magennis]

"N_Cook" wrote in message news:n9g9cq$qcn$1...@dont-email.me...

Don't use hotmelt,it doesnt stick to a lot of things for very long,
particularly shiny plastic/metal surfaces.
I've stopped using that stuff now.

Silicon sealant/glue adhere's well to most things, and can be peeled off if
necessary.
That is what I use now.



Gareth.

[Gareth Magennis]

http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?pageSize=25&st=silicon+glue&catalogId=15001&categoryId=700000004397&langId=44&storeId=10151

[N_Cook]

noted, fair comment. If there was holes or undercuts in the plastic then
hotmelt would be ok, but all smooth surfaces here.

[N_Cook]

pic of that anchor, with obvious fracture plane
http://diverse.4mg.com/EV_speaker_anchor.jpg
and the other broken flange, showing the coppery side