solder pot solder
jasee
solder pot. Does anyone know where I would get this (in the uk, I suppose)
It doesn't matter to me whether it's lead based or not as it's only being
used for tinning wires.
Apparently normal fluxed solder isn't suitable.
--
Vista: the hd dvd player that thinks it's an operating system �JC 2009
All men are islands
Invalid
<ja...@btinternet.com> writes
>I need a small amount (about a cubic inch, I would guess) of this for a
>solder pot. Does anyone know where I would get this (in the uk, I suppose)
>
>It doesn't matter to me whether it's lead based or not as it's only being
>used for tinning wires.
>
>Apparently normal fluxed solder isn't suitable.
>
>
something to do with the need to ensure drinking water pipes are not
contaminated.
--
Invalid
jasee
"Anthony R. Gold" <not-fo...@ahjg.co.uk> wrote in message
news:lmp875pqua0msi497...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2009 16:13:16 +0100, "jasee" <ja...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>> I need a small amount (about a cubic inch, I would guess) of this for a
>> solder pot. Does anyone know where I would get this (in the uk, I
>> suppose)
>>
>> It doesn't matter to me whether it's lead based or not as it's only being
>> used for tinning wires.
>>
>> Apparently normal fluxed solder isn't suitable.
>
>
Thanks but looks to be about four times as much as I need
jasee
"Invalid" <ne...@wisty.plus.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:xqmgCpAM...@wisty.plus.com...
If this really suitable it would be good, basically I'm tinning lintz wire.
Arfa Daily
"jasee" <ja...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:ydqdnZn3ftbf8enX...@bt.com...
Litz wire can be very difficult to solder to. I certainly wouldn't recommend
trying to use lead-free solder, unless you have to - and contrary to what
you say, it *does* matter if the tinned wires are to be used in any
equipment that is going to be offered for sale in the EU. In this case, it
is a legal requirement that you observe the RoHS directive, which mandates
that you may not use leaded solder, or components containing lead, or having
lead-solder tinned leadouts for any part of the product. If the wires are
only going to be used for something you're doing for yourself or a small
group of you - a ham radio project or some such, at your local radio club
for instance - then you need not conform to the requirements of RoHS.
If the Litz wire is modern stuff, then the insulating material should burn
off in the solder pot, but you may need to hold the wire in the molten
solder for a few seconds to ensure that you are down to bare metal. You
*can* use normal flux-cored solder, if you have a temperature controlled
iron that you can turn up the temperature nice and high on, with a nice big
chisel tip. You can pinch the iron up in a vice at an angle so that the flat
part of the tip faces up and is horizontal. You can then apply the wire in
one hand, and the solder in the other, and form a pool of molten fluxed
solder on the tip, which you can hold the wire in, before slowly drawing it
out. No slower really, than using a solder pot.
Arfa
jasee
> recommends 60/40 tin/lead:
>
> http://www.litz-wire.com/pdf%20files/Soldering_of_Litz_wire_231507.pdf
>
It _is_ bundled strands of insulated wire, difficult to solder together.
60/40 tin lead is traditional solder which solders much better than the
awful lead free stuff. Interesting link (thanks) though my solder pot's max
temperature is much lower.
Wild_Bill
otherwise, it's the same alloy as common wire solders.
If you can find a spool/roll of solid wire solder, you can melt that in a
solder pot with the same results.
You can feed solid wire solder (not acid or rosin core) into your solder
pot, and apply a suitable amount of liquid rosin flux to the ends of the
wires before dipping them.
Rosin core solder would also work, but you would need to skim the flux off
the top of the molten solder (flat hardwood stick similar to a tongue
depressor) to minimize smoking of the hot rosin.
You would still want to flux the wire ends properly.
You should probably do the initial melt outdoors if you use rosin core
solder because the smoke may be a problem.
I'm guessing that a half-pound (8 oz) spool of solder would approximate the
1 cu in supply you referenced, although that's a very low volume for a
standard solder pot.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"jasee" <ja...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:LeOdnSfkAejmxunX...@bt.com...
> Vista: the hd dvd player that thinks it's an operating system �JC 2009
> All men are islands
>
jasee
"Wild_Bill" <wb_wi...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Crkdm.489515$Tp1.3...@en-nntp-01.dc1.easynews.com...
> Solder used for solder pots typically wouldn't have flux in it, but
> otherwise, it's the same alloy as common wire solders.
>
> If you can find a spool/roll of solid wire solder, you can melt that in a
> solder pot with the same results.
> You can feed solid wire solder (not acid or rosin core) into your solder
> pot, and apply a suitable amount of liquid rosin flux to the ends of the
> wires before dipping them.
>
> Rosin core solder would also work, but you would need to skim the flux off
> the top of the molten solder (flat hardwood stick similar to a tongue
> depressor) to minimize smoking of the hot rosin.
> You would still want to flux the wire ends properly.
>
> You should probably do the initial melt outdoors if you use rosin core
> solder because the smoke may be a problem.
>
> I'm guessing that a half-pound (8 oz) spool of solder would approximate
> the 1 cu in supply you referenced, although that's a very low volume for a
> standard solder pot.
Sorry for the late reply, thanks all for the advice, I've got plumbers old
lead/tin and new type solders, from what's been said, I think I'll try
lead/tin first. Someone off list mentioned using meths to burn the
insulation of the wire but I think it's too thin for that.
Thanks everyone.