Tube fuse stuck in the tube

Chipperoni

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Apr 8, 2013, 1:00:54 PM4/8/13

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Hi, I have a ceramic tube fuse that is stuck. The fuse blew last week,
and is set inside a tube that is just barely larger than the fuses
diameter. The fuse is recessed about a 1/2" back. It's not magnetic,
so a little magnet rod won't work. I've tried a little super glue on
the end of a nail head, but that didn't work either, the glue connection
failed. It's really stuck. This happened once before and we ended up
tearing apart the fuse trying to dislodge it and in turn tore up the
housing. Cost us $125 to replace that. I'd prefer not to go that route
again if it's avoidable. Any ideas???

Thanks!
Chip

--
Chipperoni

Baron

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Apr 8, 2013, 4:13:12 PM4/8/13

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Chipperoni Inscribed thus:

Drill a small 1mm hole in the end and use a barbed fish hook
straightened out, grip with pliers to pull it out.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Jamie

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Apr 8, 2013, 8:15:01 PM4/8/13

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get a 6/32 start tap (tapered) and proper drill bit, something tells
me it maybe a #29 but don't quote me on that one. Drill a hole in the
end cap of the fuse, and then try to tap it. Use the tap or a 6/32 screw
to gently pull it out.

Jamie

Cydrome Leader

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Apr 8, 2013, 8:02:04 PM4/8/13

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If you have a good ironwith a chisel tip you may be able to solder a lead
to the end cap and yank it out. You might also melt something.

N_Cook

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Apr 10, 2013, 4:12:31 AM4/10/13

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Chipperoni <Chipperon...@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:Chipperon...@diybanter.com...

I would find a metal cylinder sleeve to protect the housing and a small
sharp drill bit, Don't drill for long or the heat will break the bond to the
cap. Stop the drill , in situ, and hopefully pull out the fuse. Failing that
, assuming you have a hole, then a thin tapered screw jammed in the hole and
pulled.
If the cap, only, dislodges then use the fuse barrel as a sleeve and
continue drilling to the end , for a second attempt at snagging the drill
bit.

Phil Allison

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Apr 11, 2013, 2:48:35 AM4/11/13

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"Chipperoni"

>
> Hi, I have a ceramic tube fuse that is stuck. The fuse blew last week,
> and is set inside a tube that is just barely larger than the fuses
> diameter. The fuse is recessed about a 1/2" back. It's not magnetic,
> so a little magnet rod won't work. I've tried a little super glue on
> the end of a nail head, but that didn't work either, the glue connection
> failed. It's really stuck. This happened once before and we ended up
> tearing apart the fuse trying to dislodge it and in turn tore up the
> housing.

** There was a certain brand of 3AG size cartridge fuse holder that was
widely on sale in Australia - it was labelled as having local ( WA)
Energy Authority approval too - a rarity indeed. This was mainly based on
the fact it was " finger safe" even when the circuit was live.

It seemed rather well mad,e so I bought a number of them for use in various
situations, as did many others.

Soon I found they had a major flaw - if the 3AG fuse ever got hot, the
plastic body shrank and trapped it inside for ever.

A 5 amp rated fuse running at 5 amps or so was enough to do it over time.

A 10 amp fuse running at 10 amps would do it in a matter of minutes.

So fucking much for authority approval - eh ?

.... Phil

Cydrome Leader

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Apr 11, 2013, 6:56:14 PM4/11/13

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It's like the UL stickers on stuff in US. It only means somebody payed for
the holographic sticker, and if you can't get those fake, in China I'd be
shocked, even more than from the device itself.

I'd be terrified to even run 24 volts though the christmas tree lighting
stuff they sell here.

Phil Allison

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Apr 11, 2013, 7:17:23 PM4/11/13

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"Cydrome Leader"

>
>> ** There was a certain brand of 3AG size cartridge fuse holder that was
>> widely on sale in Australia - it was labelled as having local ( WA)
>> Energy Authority approval too - a rarity indeed. This was mainly based
>> on
>> the fact it was " finger safe" even when the circuit was live.
>>

>> It seemed rather well made, so I bought a number of them for use in

>> various
>> situations, as did many others.
>>
>> Soon I found they had a major flaw - if the 3AG fuse ever got hot, the
>> plastic body shrank and trapped it inside for ever.
>>
>> A 5 amp rated fuse running at 5 amps or so was enough to do it over time.
>>
>> A 10 amp fuse running at 10 amps would do it in a matter of minutes.
>>
>> So fucking much for authority approval - eh ?
>
>
> It's like the UL stickers on stuff in US. It only means somebody payed for
> the holographic sticker, and if you can't get those fake, in China I'd be
> shocked, even more than from the device itself.

** The labelling was not fake, the supplier was one of Australia's largest
and the holders were not from China.

My information was that the testing required for agency approval did not
include operating with a fuse that dissipated several watts of heat.

The failure mode was not unsafe - just damn stupid.

.... Phil.

Peter

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Apr 12, 2013, 7:09:15 PM4/12/13

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qOn Fri, 12 Apr 2013 09:17:23 +1000, "Phil Allison"

<phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:

>My information was that the testing required for agency approval did not
>include operating with a fuse that dissipated several watts of heat.
>
>The failure mode was not unsafe - just damn stupid.
>.... Phil.

That is true that the approvals testing is absolutely only for the
electrical safety of the device. No consideration is made of the
suitability or whether it does what it claims. But so long as it does
not burn the environment, or allow little fingers to probe into live
parts, then that is all that is being tested.

peter

Chipperoni

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Apr 12, 2013, 5:34:54 PM4/12/13

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Well, after a couple days (and a trial run on another fuse) I attempted
the drill/screw/pull technique. I'm happy to say it was successful.
Here's what happened. There is a plastic ring that heat shrunk around
the middle of the fuse. The ring's purpose was to give the end cap
something to lock on to. So I got the fuse out, but the ring came with
it. So now I have to figure out how to get the cap to stay depressed in
the unit so the fuse stays connected. A much easier problem to contend
with. Thanks for all the help!

--
Chipperoni

Ian Field

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Apr 14, 2013, 1:28:26 PM4/14/13

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"Baron" <ba...@linuxmanic.net> wrote in message
news:kjv87u$mth$1...@dont-email.me...

And if none of the suggestions so far get the fuse out - replacing the fuse
holder outright would be a *VERY* good idea!

Ian Field

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Apr 14, 2013, 1:31:01 PM4/14/13

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"Chipperoni" <Chipperon...@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:Chipperon...@diybanter.com...
>

Sounds like that fuse holder will just be a PITA again at some later date -
best bet is replace it with one that isn't a bit dodgy.

micky

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Apr 20, 2013, 12:31:20 PM4/20/13

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I like this but don't think you need the tap. It's hard to tap sheet
metal anyhow. Drill the hole, use a sheet metal screw that at the
hole's diameter is still getting bigger, screw it in until it's hard
to screw, pull it all out with needle nose.
>
>Jamie

Jamie

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Apr 20, 2013, 5:42:44 PM4/20/13

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Well I always have a portable tap drill set with a battery operated
drill in my tool set, it isn't much (small) but it gets me by. I also
use it for screw and nut driver functions. Using the tap to extract an
end cap of a fuse would be handy for me since I would already have it..

Also, depending on how deep the fuse end would be, would determine if
a skinny sheet metal screw long enough to reach would be available.

Jamie