How to find the 5v line on a power supply?
Doc
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
locate this line?
Thanks.
beenthere
"Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
news:c0hhg.2312$lf4...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Red and one Black = 5V.
Yellow and one Black=12V.
do_not_...@my-deja.com
The pinout for the 20-pin ATX connector:
http://xtronics.com/reference/atx_pinout.htm
The pinout of the 24-pin connector (the most common type of 24-pin
connector; there are 3 types):
http://pinouts.ru/Power/btx_mbpower_pinout.shtml
+5V = red
+3.3V = orange (sometimes brown; blue with white stripe on some Dells)
+12V = yellow
+5V standby = purple
-12V = blue
-5V = white (not found on all power supplies)
Mike T.
"Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
news:c0hhg.2312$lf4...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Someone gave you bad advice. If there is any question at all about a power
supply, replace it. Don't fuck around with a multimeter, or "range holding
multitester". Voltage dips that can cause instability will not necessarily
register on a multimeter, as the multimeter display won't update as fast as
the voltage regulator switches. Plus, not all PSUs fail gracefully. They
often destroy other connected components when they go. So while you are
dinking around trying to get voltage readings, the PSU is a ticking time
bomb that is ready to fry your mainboard (etc.) at any moment. So while you
might "capture" a voltage drop, this is like taking a picture of an airplane
as it explodes. Good to satisfy your own curiosity, but not good for the
airplane.
If you ever have a PSU that will show a bad reading on a multimeter, then
the multimeter will be redundant at that point, as there will be NO DOUBT in
your mind that the PSU is bad . . . even if the nearest multimeter is in the
next zip code. -Dave
Michael Kennedy
save $25 isn't worth it. Especially if your inexperenced at fixing power
supplies.
Here is a list of 400W power supplies for sale
http://www.pricewatch.com/power_supply_for_case/2638-1.htm
- Mike
"Mike T." <no...@nohow.not> wrote in message
news:4485ac69$0$15765$892e...@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net...
Michael Kennedy
http://www.pctekonline.com/pen4readatxp1.html
but any of them would work.. I'd just stay away from the really cheap ones.
"Michael Kennedy" <Mike...@remthis.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:qZidnUzLtsLPIRjZ...@comcast.com...
kony
<no...@nohow.not> wrote:
>
>"Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
>news:c0hhg.2312$lf4...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>> Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
>> holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do
>> I
>> locate this line?
>>
>> Thanks.
>
>Someone gave you bad advice. If there is any question at all about a power
>supply, replace it.
That's rather ridiculous advice, since myriad problems could
be caused by a poor or failing PSU but one can't go and
replace the PSU every time Windows/etc hiccups. They would
need to reduce the variables, using the tools at their
disposal. A multimeter is one of those tools. Perhaps more
important is this question:
What did you think is a more valid indicator of PSU
malfunction? Ok, a 'scope, but who that had one, would have
an aversion to even using a 'meter?
>Don't fuck around with a multimeter, or "range holding
>multitester". Voltage dips that can cause instability will not necessarily
>register on a multimeter, as the multimeter display won't update as fast as
>the voltage regulator switches.
Actually, yes they will register. If the event was so short
that a reasonable meter can't register it, it was also short
enough to be buffered by the bulk electrolytics that just
about any and all parts have. When a PSU problem becomes
evident through system malfunction, more often it can be
realized though a meter reading.
>Plus, not all PSUs fail gracefully. They
>often destroy other connected components when they go. So while you are
>dinking around trying to get voltage readings, the PSU is a ticking time
>bomb that is ready to fry your mainboard (etc.) at any moment. So while you
>might "capture" a voltage drop, this is like taking a picture of an airplane
>as it explodes. Good to satisfy your own curiosity, but not good for the
>airplane.
Same is true of a brand new replacement, if you have a PSU
that might be working fine and introduce another PSU that is
not yet qualified or proven working properly (a multimeter
is nice here, too), simply adding that additional variable
is a potential to cause damage or just unnecessary expense
while not resolving anything. Replacement should be a last
resort if other methods of determining PSU fitness can't be
absolute.
>
>If you ever have a PSU that will show a bad reading on a multimeter, then
>the multimeter will be redundant at that point,
obviously not, because if one was measuring the PSU voltage
there was still the suspicion that the PSU might not be the
problem. One does not tend to replace parts that they feel
might not be the problem unless they happened to have
exhausted all other ideas and had a PSU lying around. How
do they know the PSU lying around is good? I suppose they
guess that it is if they don't take voltage readings. How
many system owners happen to have that spare known-good PSU
just lying around instead of having to order, wait, put the
$ into that? The percent is close to zero, if the # of
systems brought to me with a PSU problem is any indicator
then they did not have the spare, and did not know it was a
PSU problem else they would've just replaced it had they
known exactly what was needed. A meter is a source of info
so one does approach knowledge instead of guesses.
>as there will be NO DOUBT in
>your mind that the PSU is bad
No, at that point of a bad reading you have exactly what you
wanted, evidence to support your suspicion that it was, or
refute that it wasn't, a PSU problem. You could have the
ideal situation, KNOWING you have a psu problem based on the
bad reading instead of only guessing. Guessing can be
expensive if the system is anything more than a low-end box,
or time consuming if this system is set up for specific
needs/desires/etc and stores important data.
If there is a strong suspicion that the PSU is bad but that
the other parts are ok, it could be helpful to use an
(invaluable) load instead of critical parts, but having
tried the system with the PSU (pretty much manditory, that's
what was running the system up until that point), odds are
low that the PSU would have caused a problem, but be working
enough that it's much of a risk to
>. . . even if the nearest multimeter is in the
>next zip code.
Multimeter testing is never redundant, it is always the
first source of real information. OTHER guesses, anecdotal
evidence, software readings or even replacement of the PSU
and finding it then resolving the situation, can only be
redundant to actual determination though measurement, the
multimeter being the obvious cost-effective tool to do it.
This is all within a certain context though, that if one
needed to be told to measure a supply voltage with a meter,
they may not have the experience (or even the meter) to do
it. In such cases it would be better to just take the
system to an experienced technician if fast resolution is
important. They could instead buy the replacement PSU for
about the cost of the technician's bench fees, but they may
not get the system working either... and if the owner isn't
able to even use a multimeter, I'd have second thoughts
about having them muck around inside a system (that already
had a problem) TOO much. This may introduce yet another
problem, instead of keeping things static except only to
reduce the # of variables in troubleshooting.
Mike T.
> be caused by a poor or failing PSU but one can't go and
> replace the PSU every time Windows/etc hiccups.
I agree, to a point. But I still believe that replacing the power supply is
a good idea, for many reasons. First, even good name-brand power supplies
are surprisingly unreliable. The only component that fails almost as often
is a floppy drive, and those are becoming more of a rarity. So it's good to
have a spare power supply on hand anyway. You really lose nothing by
swapping it. And, you reduce the risk that, if the other power supply was
bad, it will damage other components. -Dave
Doc
"Mike T." <no...@nohow.not> wrote in message
It might be a moot point, apparently this Compaq power supply isn't
something you can just grab off the shelf, it's form is non-standard.
Arno Wagner
It is red. Ground is black.
Arno
kony
<no...@nohow.not> wrote:
>> That's rather ridiculous advice, since myriad problems could
>> be caused by a poor or failing PSU but one can't go and
>> replace the PSU every time Windows/etc hiccups.
>
>I agree, to a point. But I still believe that replacing the power supply is
>a good idea, for many reasons. First, even good name-brand power supplies
>are surprisingly unreliable. The only component that fails almost as often
>is a floppy drive, and those are becoming more of a rarity.
Err, no. Floppy drives almost never fail, I have several
that are a decade old and just needed the heads cleaned.
Cheap fans tend to fail quite often, and motherboards.
Maybe a PSU more often than that, but a PSU failure is not
more likely than "everything else" combined, including the
operating system itself becoming infected, malfunctioning or
being undermined by user action (configuration, registry,
drivers, etc).
>So it's good to
>have a spare power supply on hand anyway. You really lose nothing by
>swapping it. And, you reduce the risk that, if the other power supply was
>bad, it will damage other components. -Dave
If the other power supply were bad, it has already been
powering the system you now allege it would damage. I
suggest buying decent enough PSU that you have safety
shutdown on it. System had ran for years and it takes only
a few seconds to use a multimeter. Perhaps your method of
checking voltage needs reconsidered if you have actually
damaged gear while trying to take a voltage reading.
It's good to have a spare everything- board, video, power,
etc, but in the end there has to be reasonable suspicion it
was power, and without the multimeter reading there often is
not reasonable suspicion until AFTER one had changed the PSU
and then found the problem resolved... or not resolved, then
it was a waste of money and time. PSU do not fail often
enough that it is reasonable to simply assume it is bad and
immediately replace it, unless the PSU was a very poor match
to the system (or low quality generic) to begin with.
kony
A lot of Compaqs were, but still used standard connectors to
the mainboard. If the connector and wiring (voltages,
pinouts) are the same then it need not be mountable in the
chassis to just see if the system runs still or if there
were another problem. Does the label on the PSU give any
indicators? What system is this?
As someone already mentioned, the drive plugs will have 5V.
"usually" that is a red wire but proprietary gear including
Compaq's has been know to stray from the standard color
schemes from time to time. Looking at the 4 pin molex drive
plug, with the tapered side of the connector facing up, 5V
is the furthest left pin. If you accidentally had it upside
down and it measured 12V, just take the reading of the
opposite end since 5V is on one end, 12V on the other, and
two (usually black) grounds inbetween.
If this PSU is one Compaq made in the taller format, with a
92mm fan on the back, it may not supply 5VSB (I don't recall
for certain) but it supplies 3VSB. If you remain uncertain
about anything take some good pictures and post to a server,
linked here instead of posting the pictures themselves here.
Richard Brooks
> "Mike T." <no...@nohow.not> wrote in message
> news:4485ac69$0$15765$892e...@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net...
>> "Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
>> news:c0hhg.2312$lf4...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>>> Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
>>> holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How
>>> do I
>>> locate this line?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>> Someone gave you bad advice. If there is any question at all about a
>> power supply, replace it. Don't fuck around with a multimeter, or "range
>> holding multitester".
> I agree.. Risking your motherboard and everything else plugged into it to
> save $25 isn't worth it. Especially if your inexperenced at fixing power
> supplies.
>
> Here is a list of 400W power supplies for sale
>
> http://www.pricewatch.com/power_supply_for_case/2638-1.htm
>
> - Mike
I also agree as I lost six drives and every single board in a silent PSU
blowout.
Also, a computer PSU cannot be tested in the same way as your ordinary
home or hobby PSUs. Some light reading;
<http://computer.howstuffworks.com/power-supply.htm>
<http://www.silentpcreview.com/article148-page1.html>
Richard.
--
Two updates tools for 3D Studio Max
<http://www.kdbanglia.com/maxtools.html>
do_not_...@my-deja.com
Doc wrote:
> "Mike T." <no...@nohow.not> wrote in message
> news:4485f61d$0$15296$892e...@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net...
> It might be a moot point, apparently this Compaq power supply isn't
> something you can just grab off the shelf, it's form is non-standard.
Directron has a good selection of nonstandard and micro ATX (mATX)
power supplies. Don't try another supply unless its connector wires
match in color with those of the original supply's, pin for pin,
because some incompatible supplies use mechanically identical
connectors but have the wire colors arranged differently.
I'm not sure what a range holding meter is. Many meters will hold at
the peak voltage read, but this won't be very useful for your purpose.
Better would be a fast-responding meter that can record minimum and
maximum readings, as this can record the worst fluctuations over time.
Voltage meters can't diagnose all power supply problems, but in
practice supplies are OK when all their voltages remain well within
tolerance.
do_not_...@my-deja.com
kony wrote:
> On Tue, 6 Jun 2006 17:39:43 -0400, "Mike T."
> <no...@nohow.not> wrote:
> Err, no. Floppy drives almost never fail, I have several
> that are a decade old and just needed the heads cleaned.
I had the highest failure rate with Mitsubishi 3.5" drives because
their load mechanism would bind and cause the heads to clamp at the
wrong time and scratch the disk or heads and sometimes even cause a
head to tear off. My next most troublesome floppy drives were TEACs
because their heads would go out of alignment.
do_not_...@my-deja.com
Michael Kennedy wrote:
> Here is a list of 400W power supplies for sale
>
> http://www.pricewatch.com/power_supply_for_case/2638-1.htm
> This one appears to be somewhat good,
> http://www.pctekonline.com/pen4readatxp1.html
> but any of them would work.. I'd just stay away from the really cheap ones.
That supply is probably seriously deficient, and I would not use one
even if it were free.
kony
kony
wrote:
>
>Doc wrote:
>> "Mike T." <no...@nohow.not> wrote in message
>> news:4485f61d$0$15296$892e...@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net...
>
>> It might be a moot point, apparently this Compaq power supply isn't
>> something you can just grab off the shelf, it's form is non-standard.
>
>Directron has a good selection of nonstandard and micro ATX (mATX)
>power supplies. Don't try another supply unless its connector wires
>match in color with those of the original supply's, pin for pin,
>because some incompatible supplies use mechanically identical
>connectors but have the wire colors arranged differently.
>
If it's the supply type I suspect it is, it's proprietary in
pinout as well as form-factor. There were spares available
online the last time I looked, the best luck at finding them
is to enter the supply part/replacement numbers from it's
label into Google, which may also provide an alternate part
# that can also be sought.
Mike Berger
Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:
The power supply monitors its own voltage rails and lowers the POK
signal if any are below spec. When this happens, the motherboard
should normally reset/restart itself. Note that the voltage you
measure at the PSU will be somewhat higher than what you measure on
the motherboard. This is because of voltage drops in the harness and
at the connector itself.
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
David Maynard
> On Tue, 06 Jun 2006 15:17:28 GMT, "Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx>
> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>
>>Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
>>holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
>>locate this line?
>>
>>Thanks.
>
>
> The power supply monitors its own voltage rails and lowers the POK
> signal if any are below spec.
In theory, perhaps. In practice they're not that accurate and I wouldn't
count on POK as any kind of proof the voltages are in spec.
do_not_...@my-deja.com
Franc Zabkar wrote:
> On Tue, 06 Jun 2006 15:17:28 GMT, "Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx>
> put finger to keyboard and composed:
> >Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
> >holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
> >locate this line?
>
> The power supply monitors its own voltage rails and lowers the POK
> signal if any are below spec. When this happens, the motherboard
> should normally reset/restart itself.
That typically doesn't occur until a voltage drops at least 15% below
nominal value, or far below the normal 5% tolerance allowed for the
voltages, and it's done more to protect any switching regulators on the
motherboard, video card, or even disk drives, from reaching extreme
duty cyclea rather than to prevent unreliable operation of the computer.
CBFalconer
> Franc Zabkar wrote:
>> "Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx>:
>>
>>> Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with
>>> a range holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and
>>> within range. How do I locate this line?
>>
>> POK signal if any are below spec.
>
> In theory, perhaps. In practice they're not that accurate and I
> wouldn't count on POK as any kind of proof the voltages are in
> spec.
I prefer to do rough checks of power supplies with a scope probe,
if available. That way you can see unusual ripple or other faults
invisible to a voltmeter.
--
"Our enemies are innovative and resourceful, and so are we.
They never stop thinking about new ways to harm our country
and our people, and neither do we." -- G. W. Bush.
"The people can always be brought to the bidding of the
leaders. All you have to do is tell them they are being
attacked and denounce the pacifists for lack of patriotism
and exposing the country to danger. It works the same way
in any country." --Hermann Goering.
Michael Kennedy
name brand computer (they usually use the cheapest crap you can get). I
woudn't gurantee that it would deliver 400w but most computers don't need
that much current.
- Mike
<do_not_...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1149679556.4...@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Michael Kennedy
acceptable quality.
I know OEM's (dell, hp, compaq) aren't using Antec or any other quality
psu's
"Mike Berger" <ber...@shout.net> wrote in message
news:e66p7m$e4t$1...@roundup.shout.net...
do_not_...@my-deja.com
Michael Kennedy wrote:
> <do_not_...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
> news:1149679556.4...@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>> Here is a list of 400W power supplies for sale
>> This one appears to be somewhat good,
>> http://www.pctekonline.com/pen4readatxp1.html
>> but any of them would work.. I'd just stay away from the really cheap
>> ones.
> >
> > That supply is probably seriously deficient, and I would not use one
> > even if it were free.
> I'd guess its probably as good or better than most oem power supplies in any
> name brand computer (they usually use the cheapest crap you can get).
False. OEM supplies tend to be among the best, such as Delta, Lite-On,
Enhance, and high-end Channel Well, and I've never seen deficient ones
except in old e-Machines and some containing defective capacitors.
John Doe
the abrupt replies, but it's not easy.
You say the power supply is "AMD certified" and the advertising says
"Intel Certified / AMD Recommended"
But after a tiny amount of research, I don't find any evidence that
it's AMD recommended or Intel certified. About 30 power supply
makers are listed on AMD's web site, but Rexus isn't one of them.
Searching for "Intel certified" and "Rexus" produces no meaningful
results.
"Michael Kennedy" <Mikek400 remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Path: newssvr27.news.prodigy.net!newsdbm04.news.prodigy.com!newsdst02.news.prodigy.com!prodigy.com!newscon06.news.prodigy.com!prodigy.net!border1.nntp.dca.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!local02.nntp.dca.giganews.com!nntp.comcast.com!news.comcast.com.POSTED!not-for-mail
> NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 12:57:30 -0500
> From: "Michael Kennedy" <Mikek400 remthis.comcast.net>
> Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.misc,sci.electronics.repair,alt.computer,alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt
> References: <c0hhg.2312$lf4.638 newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net> <4485ac69$0$15765$892e7fe2 authen.yellow.readfreenews.net> <qZidnUzLtsLPIRjZnZ2dnUVZ_rKdnZ2d comcast.com> <mcadnfo11qN_IRjZnZ2dnUVZ_qidnZ2d comcast.com> <e66p7m$e4t$1 roundup.shout.net>
> Subject: Re: How to find the 5v line on a power supply?
> Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2006 13:57:29 -0400
> X-Priority: 3
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2869
> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2869
> X-RFC2646: Format=Flowed; Response
> Message-ID: <mM6dnbhbr-qX-BXZnZ2dnUVZ_oOdnZ2d comcast.com>
> Lines: 18
> NNTP-Posting-Host: 68.59.168.15
> X-Trace: sv3-9gaTa2/8gb/HPKJIfTcD5FSMpNkJJeCs3fOYVkBFwwXQtzS+kk+cGB7fyjiA0wndwAHTxkWg/lhcVTI!6HPok7wMFMNsT9eGulgvQoBWn02ok1k8HmVOIYM9TbucrMsNA6q/QFhnCXfWQDTkJHSNOzN8dMWL!H2aUPe3x1/Zm
> X-Complaints-To: abuse comcast.net
> X-DMCA-Complaints-To: dmca comcast.net
> X-Abuse-and-DMCA-Info: Please be sure to forward a copy of ALL headers
> X-Abuse-and-DMCA-Info: Otherwise we will be unable to process your complaint properly
> X-Postfilter: 1.3.32
> Xref: prodigy.net comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.misc:193542 sci.electronics.repair:452843 alt.computer:268921 alt.comp.hardware:310790 alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt:467701
>
> Well it is AMD certified... I've found that most AMD certified psu's are of
> acceptable quality.
>
> I know OEM's (dell, hp, compaq) aren't using Antec or any other quality
> psu's
>
>
> "Mike Berger" <berger shout.net> wrote in message
> news:e66p7m$e4t$1 roundup.shout.net...
do_not_...@my-deja.com
Michael Kennedy wrote:
> "Mike Berger" <ber...@shout.net> wrote in message
> news:e66p7m$e4t$1...@roundup.shout.net...
> > I'd classify that one as one of the really cheap ones.
> >
> > Michael Kennedy wrote:
> >> This one appears to be somewhat good,
> >> http://www.pctekonline.com/pen4readatxp1.html
> >> but any of them would work.. I'd just stay away from the really cheap
> >> ones.
> Well it is AMD certified... I've found that most AMD certified psu's are of
> acceptable quality.
AMD and Intel certifications are very low standards, practically
meaningless, as shown by all the Deer and Powmax supplies approved by
them. Only Nvidia's SLI certification may be worth anything.
> I know OEM's (dell, hp, compaq) aren't using Antec or any other quality psu's
And why should they when Antec is but a marketer that produces nothing?
Large OEMs instead deal directly with the manufacturers, and at least
one of the OEMs
you listed has used a company that supplies Antec: Channel Well.
Michael Kennedy
me as I have had no name brands die... Just saying from my experince in
working on computers in the last 10 years. To be totally honest though I
can't remember that many systems with dead psu's. Most of the time if there
is a problem with the psu it was the fan or it was hit by lightning.
I guess my point is that just about any moderately priced psu will last as
long as your computer is not obsolete. I've had the 350w psu that came with
my $50 case for 3 years now on 24/7 with no problems except I had to change
the fan about 6 months ago.
- Mike
<do_not_...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1149797885.1...@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
larry moe 'n curly
> "Mike Berger" <ber...@shout.net> wrote in message
> news:e66p7m$e4t$1...@roundup.shout.net...
> This one appears to be somewhat good,
> http://www.pctekonline.com/pen4readatxp1.html
> > I'd classify that one as one of the really cheap ones.
> Well it is AMD certified... I've found that most AMD certified psu's are of
> acceptable quality.
Three of these PSUs are AMD certified, two are not:
1. http://static.flickr.com/39/79711182_55eb38f55b.jpg
2. http://static.flickr.com/41/75125024_161da61ad7.jpg
3. http://static.flickr.com/38/75117436_1de7a3142d.jpg
4. http://static.flickr.com/28/67715167_9880b9e1c4.jpg
5. http://static.flickr.com/41/79709280_e68a4d0001.jpg
Which are AMD certified and which are not?
What is the power rating of each PSU?
Do not top post, dammit. ;)
Michael Kennedy
- Mike
"larry moe 'n curly" <larrymo...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:1149816879....@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
kony
<Mike...@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
>I'd guess its probably as good or better than most oem power supplies in any
>name brand computer (they usually use the cheapest crap you can get). I
>woudn't gurantee that it would deliver 400w but most computers don't need
>that much current.
>
Not at all, the typical Dell, HP, Compaq, Gateway, etc, 300W
PSU is better than it.
OEMs tend to use accurately rated but no-frills units. It's
beside the point though, a normal ATX supply cannot replace
his proprietary supply.
kony
<Mike...@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
>Well it is AMD certified... I've found that most AMD certified psu's are of
>acceptable quality.
>
>I know OEM's (dell, hp, compaq) aren't using Antec or any other quality
>psu's
>
Completely untrue. Watt per watt, HP, Compaq, Dell and
Gateway all use equivalent quality to an Antec.
Antec isn't "high quality" though, merely upper mid-grade
that is marketed hence more popular.
kony
<Mike...@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
>Fair enough, but it seems that I have had just as many oem supplies die on
>me as I have had no name brands die... Just saying from my experince in
>working on computers in the last 10 years. To be totally honest though I
>can't remember that many systems with dead psu's. Most of the time if there
>is a problem with the psu it was the fan or it was hit by lightning.
>
Surge resistance and fan longevity are both factors in PSU
quality. A dollar here for higher voltage rated parts, a
dollar there for a filter, another dollar for a better
fan... it all adds up, and all differentiates between them.
larry moe 'n curly
Michael Kennedy wrote, by immorally top posting::
> "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymo...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
> news:1149816879....@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>> "Mike Berger" <ber...@shout.net> wrote in message
>> news:e66p7m$e4t$1...@roundup.shout.net...
>
> This one appears to be somewhat good,
> http://www.pctekonline.com/pen4readatxp1.html
>
> > > I'd classify that one as one of the really cheap ones.
>
> Well it is AMD certified... I've found that most AMD certified psu's are
> of acceptable quality.
> >
> > Three of these PSUs are AMD certified, two are not:
> >
> > 1. http://static.flickr.com/39/79711182_55eb38f55b.jpg
> > 2. http://static.flickr.com/41/75125024_161da61ad7.jpg
> > 3. http://static.flickr.com/38/75117436_1de7a3142d.jpg
> > 4. http://static.flickr.com/28/67715167_9880b9e1c4.jpg
> > 5. http://static.flickr.com/41/79709280_e68a4d0001.jpg
> >
> > Which are AMD certified and which are not?
> > What is the power rating of each PSU?
> >
> > Do not top post, dammit. ;)
> I'd guess 2,3 and 4 due to the larger heat sink.
Do you mean they're AMD certified? You didn't specify.
And what is the power rating of each PSU? Hint: They range from
200-550W.
Michael Kennedy
Power rating... hmm well this is just a wild guess but I think that
1 is a 200W
2 is a 300W
3 is a 400W
4 is a 350W
5 is probably some cheap 550W
- Mike
larry moe 'n curly
> "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
> news:1149816879....@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> > Three of these PSUs are AMD certified, two are not:
> > 1. http://static.flickr.com/39/79711182_55eb38f55b.jpg
> > 2. http://static.flickr.com/41/75125024_161da61ad7.jpg
> > 3. http://static.flickr.com/38/75117436_1de7a3142d.jpg
> > 4. http://static.flickr.com/28/67715167_9880b9e1c4.jpg
> > 5. http://static.flickr.com/41/79709280_e68a4d0001.jpg
> Power rating... hmm well this is just a wild guess but I think that
> 1 is a 200W [not AMD recommended]
1. 350W, not AMD recommended.
Codegen. But your power estimate is probably much more realistic.
> 2 is a 300W [AMD recommended]
2. 300W, AMD recommended.
Key Mouse/MaxPower/Soyo. It actually did put out 300W when I tested it
for ten minutes (I can't test longer -- my load resistors get too hot),
but I cheated and paralleled a second diode for the +5.0V rail (empty
space on the circuit board for it). Originally there was no EMI filter
(or AM radio reception), but at least this PSU and the case it came in
didn't cost me anything
> 3 is a 400W [AMD recommended]
3. 300W, not AMD recommended.
Delta DPS-300BB from an Acer computer. It managed to put out 380W, the
limit of my test load resistance, so maybe by common standards it is a
400W, especially because its filter capacitors are larger than those in
any other 300W PSU I've seen, and the transformer is larger than normal
despite operating at 95 KHz rather than the more common 60 KHz.
$13-15. Kony can tell you more about this model PSU..
> 4 is a 350W [AMD recommended]
4. 200W, not AMD recommended.
Delta 200W NPS200PB from a Dell. The only tipoffs that this is not a
350W are the small transformer (but this one runs at 100 KHz) and the
470uF high voltage filter capacitors (too small for such well-made PSU
rated for 350W).
> 5 is probably some cheap 550W [not AMD recommended]
5. 550W (peak), AMD recommended.
Q-Tec. Like the 200W Delta/Dell, its high voltage filters are 470uF.
How did you know that this cheapo PSU was the one rated for 550W rather
than 200W?
JAD
you..............
"Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
news:c0hhg.2312$lf4...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
> holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do
I
> locate this line?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
JAD
"JAD" <kapa...@earthcharter.net> wrote in message
news:iNnig.1714$b37...@fe05.lga...
> ok well first you wet a finger and drab the case....then with your tongue
> you..............
<<< Grab*>>>>>> the case
Michael Kennedy
> Q-Tec. Like the 200W Delta/Dell, its high voltage filters are 470uF.
> How did you know that this cheapo PSU was the one rated for 550W rather
> than 200W?
The 2 fans and the gold plating.. They always blow the numbers out of
proportion on those for some reason.. I'd say its more like a 300W psu max..
That one is really amd certified? Wow..
- Mike
Michael Kennedy
> The 2 fans and the gold plating.. They always blow the numbers out of
> proportion on those for some reason.. I'd say its more like a 300W psu
> max..
>
*clarification... I'd say it shouldn't be rated for more than 300W...
kony
<larrymo...@my-deja.com> wrote:
>3. 300W, not AMD recommended.
>Delta DPS-300BB from an Acer computer. It managed to put out 380W, the
>limit of my test load resistance, so maybe by common standards it is a
>400W, especially because its filter capacitors are larger than those in
>any other 300W PSU I've seen, and the transformer is larger than normal
>despite operating at 95 KHz rather than the more common 60 KHz.
>$13-15. Kony can tell you more about this model PSU..
>
I still have a couple of those, one of them powering an
overclocked Mobile Barton Athlon, the other in a dual PSU
system with a 2nd, 240(?)W Delta. Good unit... Delta always
uses HQ parts, targets for sustained current, and overall is
just a tremendous bang for buck when you can get ahold of
them in the grey market. Main limitation on this particular
model is it's clearly optimized for 5V current instead of
12V. There's that issue about needing the load on the 3V
rail sometimes, too, but it seems a subjective thing to some
of us...
Understandably some people will scream bloody murder if
their PSU acts dead, but otherwise I seldom want load
resistors in the densely populated output area on the PCB if
the system itself is loading it too.
I'd take same wattage Delta over most brands. Did you see
Anandtech's Computex coverage? 300W video cards... YIKES!
http://www.anandtech.com/tradeshows/showdoc.aspx?i=2770
I think my next built-from-scratch gaming rig will have 2
Delta server PSU in it. Not PS2 though, ~ 5-1/4 x 5 x
11-1/2 (ie - just big enough for a 120mm _rear_ fan). I can
get 72A per 5V & 12V rails for $100 total
http://www.centrix-intl.com/details.asp?productid=484
(really closer to $130 after factoring for time and parts
to make a load-sharing board, essentially a minimalized
redundant power board with added RC filters on it.).
Found some double sided 3 oz. 0.093" copper clad on ebay,
should be perfect for it... couldn't even find copper clad
over 1/16" at Digikey/Mouser/Allied.
Same 'site linked above has some of those 300W Deltas, or
rather the Intel Server variant, DPS-300JB,
http://www.centrix-intl.com/details.asp?productid=2324
but at this price-point I'd be contemplating a last-gen.
400W Sparkle instead if I needed any PSU with beefy 5V rails
in PS2 form. Although, it's also because I have spare
Sparkles, like always picked up when the price was right...
since I never get hung up on particular models rather than
"what it is" vs. price.
larry moe 'n curly
Michael Kennedy wrote:
> > 5. 550W (peak), AMD recommended.
> > Q-Tec. Like the 200W Delta/Dell, its high voltage filters are 470uF.
> That one is really amd certified? Wow.
That's why I don't trust AMD PSU certification at all. 98% of the
reviews also can't be trusted because they test at just half the rated
power. So it's best to just pick something made by one of the best
manufacturers, like Delta, Zippy/Emacs, Enhance, Lite-On, Seasonic,
Fortron-Source, PC Power & Cooling, Win-tact, Etasis, or NMB/Mineba, or
sold by Antec.
larry moe 'n curly
> >Delta DPS-300BB from an Acer computer.
> I still have a couple of those, one of them powering an
> overclocked Mobile Barton Athlon, the other in a dual PSU
> system with a 2nd, 240(?)W Delta. Good unit... Delta always
> uses HQ parts, targets for sustained current, and overall is
> just a tremendous bang for buck when you can get ahold of
> them in the grey market. Main limitation on this particular
> model is it's clearly optimized for 5V current instead of
> 12V. There's that issue about needing the load on the 3V
> rail sometimes, too, but it seems a subjective thing to some
> of us...
And no junk electrolytic capacitors. My Deltas contain only Rubycon,
Nichicon, and Chemicon, none of the Fujyyu junk found in Antecs.
> Understandably some people will scream bloody murder if
> their PSU acts dead, but otherwise I seldom want load
> resistors in the densely populated output area on the PCB if
> the system itself is loading it too.
I initially thought tha my Deltas were dead because they wouldn't start
even when I attached a load resistor to the +5.0V rail, but they merely
needed a load on the +3.3V as well. Another oddity was that I
couldn't simply ground the green Power-On wire to turn it on but had to
plug in the AC first and then ground that wire.
> I'd take same wattage Delta over most brands. Did you see
> Anandtech's Computex coverage? 300W video cards... YIKES!
> http://www.anandtech.com/tradeshows/showdoc.aspx?i=2770
My fastest graphics card is just a Radeon 9550. :(
It seems that CPU power consumption has topped out, but how long before
the same happens with graphics chips?
> I think my next built-from-scratch gaming rig will have 2
> Delta server PSU in it. Not PS2 though, ~ 5-1/4 x 5 x
> 11-1/2 (ie - just big enough for a 120mm _rear_ fan). I can
> get 72A per 5V & 12V rails for $100 total
> http://www.centrix-intl.com/details.asp?productid=484
> (really closer to $130 after factoring for time and parts
> to make a load-sharing board, essentially a minimalized
> redundant power board with added RC filters on it.).
That's an awesome project.
kony
<larrymo...@my-deja.com> wrote:
>> I'd take same wattage Delta over most brands. Did you see
>> Anandtech's Computex coverage? 300W video cards... YIKES!
>> http://www.anandtech.com/tradeshows/showdoc.aspx?i=2770
>
>My fastest graphics card is just a Radeon 9550. :(
So overclock it till the wheels fall off?
My most power hungry card at the moment is a volt-modded
FX5900. I calculated that it should be using about 120W,
but for all that power it can't do FSAA or AF so well. I
strapped a ~ 1U all copper skt A 'sink on it and then began
wondering if it needed stilts so it didn't break off at the
AGP connector from the extra weight. I haven't been
motivated to push the o'c on anything more valuable yet,
beyond what coolbits allows.
>
>It seems that CPU power consumption has topped out, but how long before
>the same happens with graphics chips?
I'd expect it to happen right about when they realize there
is no way to strap on a larger/better heatsink, though
they've already gone beyond Intel in coming up with more
elaborate heatpipes and custom 'sink designs to fit the
allotted space in creative ways. I dont' know if it was the
Anandtech article or elsewhere that I read it, but
supposedly nVidia & ATI's next gen parts won't use as much
power. I welcome that as I still like to avoid video or CPU
over ~ 80W each unless it's only due to free performance
boost from o'c.
>
>> I think my next built-from-scratch gaming rig will have 2
>> Delta server PSU in it. Not PS2 though, ~ 5-1/4 x 5 x
>> 11-1/2 (ie - just big enough for a 120mm _rear_ fan). I can
>> get 72A per 5V & 12V rails for $100 total
>> http://www.centrix-intl.com/details.asp?productid=484
>> (really closer to $130 after factoring for time and parts
>> to make a load-sharing board, essentially a minimalized
>> redundant power board with added RC filters on it.).
>
>That's an awesome project.
Maybe, but it also means the case will be a little over 10"
wide (as I'd put them side-by-side horizontally) which seems
a little big for a gaming system.