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DVD Player Apex AD-2600 'No Disc'
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fred
Oct 10, 2014, 1:46:35 PM10/10/14
to
Used this Apex Ad-2600 DVD player only a few times. Has been
sitting in a box for close to 10 years. Tried it out the other day,
and every type of disc loaded gives the same 'no disc' message.
Cleaned the lens, made fractional adjustments to the pots next
to the lens, but every time it tries to load a DVD, it slowly spins
a few turns, stops, slowly spins a few turns again, and then the
'no disc' message appears.
I have seen the 'no disc' message mentioned on the web with other
brands of DVD players as well, but couldn't find any response as to
what the most common reasons would be for that. Any ideas?
sitting in a box for close to 10 years. Tried it out the other day,
and every type of disc loaded gives the same 'no disc' message.
Cleaned the lens, made fractional adjustments to the pots next
to the lens, but every time it tries to load a DVD, it slowly spins
a few turns, stops, slowly spins a few turns again, and then the
'no disc' message appears.
I have seen the 'no disc' message mentioned on the web with other
brands of DVD players as well, but couldn't find any response as to
what the most common reasons would be for that. Any ideas?
Michael Black
Oct 10, 2014, 1:51:36 PM10/10/14
to
when Apex was Big, at least some of the players used standard computer
drives, so you could just plug one in if the drive went bad.
Michael
fred
Oct 10, 2014, 3:58:37 PM10/10/14
to
"Michael Black" <et...@ncf.ca> wrote
with another IDE computer drive (works great), but the Apex drive has
two regular plugs, and a small ribbon-cable connector.
David Platt
Oct 10, 2014, 4:26:55 PM10/10/14
to
> Used this Apex Ad-2600 DVD player only a few times. Has been
> sitting in a box for close to 10 years. Tried it out the other day,
> and every type of disc loaded gives the same 'no disc' message.
A couple of thoughts:
> sitting in a box for close to 10 years. Tried it out the other day,
> and every type of disc loaded gives the same 'no disc' message.
- It might be worth checking the power supply. I think that player
was made during the era of the "stolen-electrolyte bad capacitor
plague" problem. It's possible that the power-supply bypass
electrolytic caps have gone bad (they usually fail as a result of
power-on hours, but I suspect they could have gone bad in storage
as well). Signs and symptons might be swollen tops on the
capacitors, obvious signs of leakage of electrolyte, or (if there's
no external failure) excessively high "equivalent series
resistance" or excessive noise and ripple on the power supply
rails.
The cure would be to remove any such suspect capacitors, repair any
damage to the PC-board traces caused by leaking electrolyte, and
replace them with high-quality low-impedance/high-frequency-rated
"switching supply rated" electrolytics (Panasonic and Nichicon are
good brands).
I had a Cyberhome DVD player of about the same vintage which failed
due to this problem. Replacing the caps fixed it.
- It's possible that the "sled" which moves the optical assembly back
and forth is stuck in place. Whatever lubricant was used on the
sled "rails" may have congealed over the years. Fixing this would
require opening up the drive (if it's sealed), gently sliding the
sled back and forth by hand, cleaning the old lubricant or grease
off of the rails (Q-tip or chamois swab, plus 99% isopropyl alcohol
would probably do) and then lightly re-lubricating the rails
(Tri-Flo, or sewing machine oil - don't use WD-40).
fred
Oct 10, 2014, 8:14:54 PM10/10/14
to
"David Platt" <dpl...@coop.radagast.org> wrote
drive out for close inspection. The optical assembly moves freely, and
the caps "look" in perfect shape - not that looking good necessarily means
much with caps.
Normally I would just toss it, but I have a few PAL DVDs which this player
plays with an incredible picture quality. I have a newer Toshiba DVD player
which is able to play PAL DVDs also, but it doesn't even come close to the
video quality of that Apex.
Initially, out of the box, I got it to spin up a couple of times after a
zillion tried, but since then it just keeps displaying the "No Disc"
message, no matter what type of DVD I try.
Arfa Daily
Oct 10, 2014, 8:43:32 PM10/10/14
to
"fred" <fre...@no.net> wrote in message
news:m195ut$cnm$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
like lack of use. Unfortunately, by adjusting the pots on the laser head,
you may now have also damaged the laser diodes. They are *very* sensitive to
over-current - particularly the visible red DVD one - and just the smallest
adjustment from the factory setting can be enough to cause damage to some
makes.
Have you tried playing a CD ?
Arfa
jf...@my-deja.com
Oct 10, 2014, 10:02:46 PM10/10/14
to
On Friday, October 10, 2014 1:26:55 PM UTC-7, David Platt wrote:
> > Used this Apex Ad-2600 DVD player only a few times. Has been
> > sitting in a box for close to 10 years. Tried it out the other
> > day, and every type of disc loaded gives the same 'no disc'
> > message.
>
> > Used this Apex Ad-2600 DVD player only a few times. Has been
> > sitting in a box for close to 10 years. Tried it out the other
> > day, and every type of disc loaded gives the same 'no disc'
> > message.
>
> - It might be worth checking the power supply. I think that player
> was made during the era of the "stolen-electrolyte bad capacitor
> plague" problem.
<snip>
> was made during the era of the "stolen-electrolyte bad capacitor
> plague" problem.
> I had a Cyberhome DVD player of about the same vintage which
> failed due to this problem. Replacing the caps fixed it.
A few years ago, I fixed my Apex AD-1500 by replacing the bad electrolytic capacitors (mostly in the power supply). I agree with David's advice on ways to identify the suspect caps.
> failed due to this problem. Replacing the caps fixed it.
Michael Black
Oct 10, 2014, 11:07:37 PM10/10/14
to
On Fri, 10 Oct 2014, fred wrote:
>
>
so only the logo was displayed, or I had problems when switching from one
type of size of screen to another. The electrolytics looked fine. But
once I changed the bigger value ones in the power supply, it worked fine.
So they don't have to bulge to be bad, and something can almost work yet
need new capacitors.
I figure I can get my found in a recycling bin DVD recorder going again
when/if I finally get around to changing the power supply capacitors.
There again, the capacitors look fine, but operation was slowly declining
when writing, and slipping a DVD writer from a computer (yes, it uses a
standard drive) didnt' change anything, so I'm assuming something isn't
quite right.
> Normally I would just toss it, but I have a few PAL DVDs which this player
> plays with an incredible picture quality. I have a newer Toshiba DVD player
> which is able to play PAL DVDs also, but it doesn't even come close to the
> video quality of that Apex.
all found on the sidewalk, so a DVD player is easy to come by. But the
ability to play foreign DVDs isn't something every DVD player is capable
of.
> Initially, out of the box, I got it to spin up a couple of times after a
> zillion tried, but since then it just keeps displaying the "No Disc"
> message, no matter what type of DVD I try.
>
>
play DVDs. Once I cleaned the lens over the laser, it reads blu-ray disks
fine.
Michael
fred
Oct 11, 2014, 10:41:55 AM10/11/14
to
>"Michael Black" <et...@ncf.ca> wrote
just start replacing the larger power supply caps and see what
happens...
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa....@ntlworld.com> wrote
Well, same symptoms, except, when I spun the CD by hand
after it refused to turn on its own, it all of a sudden sped up to
something like 3-digit RPM for half a minute (sounded like the
Concorde taking off), still showing "LOAD" in the window.
That was it, followed by the "no disc" message.
However, every time the CD was inserted and loaded, I could see
the red laser shining through the disc for perhaps half a second only,
and then no more. So it would make sense that after a while the
"no disc" message would appear. Seems like a faulty laser function
to be at the root of the problem. Replacing the Power caps may be
a good start.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
> The electrolytics looked fine. But once I changed
> the bigger value ones in the power supply, it worked fine.
If I can find suitable replacement caps in my parts box, I may
> the bigger value ones in the power supply, it worked fine.
just start replacing the larger power supply caps and see what
happens...
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa....@ntlworld.com> wrote
> Have you tried playing a CD ?
Never thought of trying a CD - good idea!
Well, same symptoms, except, when I spun the CD by hand
after it refused to turn on its own, it all of a sudden sped up to
something like 3-digit RPM for half a minute (sounded like the
Concorde taking off), still showing "LOAD" in the window.
That was it, followed by the "no disc" message.
However, every time the CD was inserted and loaded, I could see
the red laser shining through the disc for perhaps half a second only,
and then no more. So it would make sense that after a while the
"no disc" message would appear. Seems like a faulty laser function
to be at the root of the problem. Replacing the Power caps may be
a good start.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Arfa Daily
Oct 12, 2014, 1:18:28 PM10/12/14
to
news:m1bfin$dg9$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
only visible looking directly at the laser from an angle. As it is primarily
a DVD player, the software probably turns on the DVD laser first, which is
what you see through the disc. When a valid 'return' is not seen by the
decoder on the end of the pickup diodes, the software will decide to try for
there being a CD in there instead, and turn on the CD (near infra red)
laser, which you won't be able to see. The symptoms that you saw with the
disc refusing to spin up on it's own, but did when 'helped' is
indeterminate, and can be the result of many different problems. The fact
that it doesn't read either DVDs or CDs normally indicates that the problem
is not the laser diodes themselves. However, this does not preclude the
pickup diode array being faulty. Also, as the unit had sat for a long time,
it could have built up a layer of dust on the optics inside the head -
particularly the critical-angle mirror. Cleaning the lens will of course
have no effect on this. If you have a can of air duster to hand, you can try
*carefully* holding the lens to one side using a scalpel tip or similar, and
then giving a couple of quick blasts down the gap.
As to caps, personally I think that the likelihood of that being the cause
of the trouble is fairly slim. Although caps are one of the commonest causes
of trouble on modern equipment, it is almost always as a result of use, with
either poorly rated types that can't handle the ripple currents that they
are being subjected to, or have been badly physically sited in the design of
the PCB, and are subjected to heat stress from nearby regulators etc. I know
lots of people advocate blanket changes of electrolytics, but I've never
felt that this is a good idea unless you are really convinced that several
are faulty. The only proper way to diagnose this is with an ESR meter.
Arfa
>>"Michael Black" <et...@ncf.ca> wrote
>> The electrolytics looked fine. But once I changed
>> the bigger value ones in the power supply, it worked fine.
>
> If I can find suitable replacement caps in my parts box, I may
> just start replacing the larger power supply caps and see what
> happens...
>
>
>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa....@ntlworld.com> wrote
>> Have you tried playing a CD ?
>
> Never thought of trying a CD - good idea!
>
> Well, same symptoms, except, when I spun the CD by hand
> after it refused to turn on its own, it all of a sudden sped up to
> something like 3-digit RPM for half a minute (sounded like the
> Concorde taking off), still showing "LOAD" in the window.
> That was it, followed by the "no disc" message.
>
> However, every time the CD was inserted and loaded, I could see
> the red laser shining through the disc for perhaps half a second only,
> and then no more. So it would make sense that after a while the
> "no disc" message would appear. Seems like a faulty laser function
> to be at the root of the problem. Replacing the Power caps may be
> a good start.
>
The visible red laser is for the DVD. The CD laser is near infra red, and
>> The electrolytics looked fine. But once I changed
>> the bigger value ones in the power supply, it worked fine.
>
> If I can find suitable replacement caps in my parts box, I may
> just start replacing the larger power supply caps and see what
> happens...
>
>
>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa....@ntlworld.com> wrote
>> Have you tried playing a CD ?
>
> Never thought of trying a CD - good idea!
>
> Well, same symptoms, except, when I spun the CD by hand
> after it refused to turn on its own, it all of a sudden sped up to
> something like 3-digit RPM for half a minute (sounded like the
> Concorde taking off), still showing "LOAD" in the window.
> That was it, followed by the "no disc" message.
>
> However, every time the CD was inserted and loaded, I could see
> the red laser shining through the disc for perhaps half a second only,
> and then no more. So it would make sense that after a while the
> "no disc" message would appear. Seems like a faulty laser function
> to be at the root of the problem. Replacing the Power caps may be
> a good start.
>
only visible looking directly at the laser from an angle. As it is primarily
a DVD player, the software probably turns on the DVD laser first, which is
what you see through the disc. When a valid 'return' is not seen by the
decoder on the end of the pickup diodes, the software will decide to try for
there being a CD in there instead, and turn on the CD (near infra red)
laser, which you won't be able to see. The symptoms that you saw with the
disc refusing to spin up on it's own, but did when 'helped' is
indeterminate, and can be the result of many different problems. The fact
that it doesn't read either DVDs or CDs normally indicates that the problem
is not the laser diodes themselves. However, this does not preclude the
pickup diode array being faulty. Also, as the unit had sat for a long time,
it could have built up a layer of dust on the optics inside the head -
particularly the critical-angle mirror. Cleaning the lens will of course
have no effect on this. If you have a can of air duster to hand, you can try
*carefully* holding the lens to one side using a scalpel tip or similar, and
then giving a couple of quick blasts down the gap.
As to caps, personally I think that the likelihood of that being the cause
of the trouble is fairly slim. Although caps are one of the commonest causes
of trouble on modern equipment, it is almost always as a result of use, with
either poorly rated types that can't handle the ripple currents that they
are being subjected to, or have been badly physically sited in the design of
the PCB, and are subjected to heat stress from nearby regulators etc. I know
lots of people advocate blanket changes of electrolytics, but I've never
felt that this is a good idea unless you are really convinced that several
are faulty. The only proper way to diagnose this is with an ESR meter.
Arfa
fred
Oct 12, 2014, 6:16:31 PM10/12/14
to
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