Dyson - how to access?
Terry Pinnell
switch. (Moving the cable where it enters the housing gives
intermittent operation.)
I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
book our engineer ... 49 UKP (78 USD)" Plus VAT presumably. I'm darned
if I'm going to fork out £50 for tightening a connection ;-(
So, can someone please tell me how to get access to the switch please?
I've shown a picture here.
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson.jpg
I'm guessing I have to insert a blade or screwdriver somewhere, but
I'm nervous about applying any force until I hear from someone with
experience please. There appear to be no possibilities apart from
- removing the yellow switch
- removing that small section surrounded by a 'seam' that I've shown
--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK
Richard Crowley
> I'm guessing I have to insert a blade or screwdriver somewhere, but
> I'm nervous about applying any force until I hear from someone with
> experience please. There appear to be no possibilities apart from
> - removing the yellow switch
> - removing that small section surrounded by a 'seam' that I've shown
Your arrows appear to be pointing to two different "seams" by
my reckoning. Note that some of the things that appear to be
seams between different parts may actually be seams between
sloppy-fitting die when the piece was injection-moulded. Can't
really tell at this distance from a photo.
Furthermore, there appear to be two more more distinct seams
just to the left (by your photo) that could be where the assembly
actually separates. Look all the way up and down the handle.
May be a screw at one end. Screw may even be covered with
some sort of trim piece.
Mjolinor
"Terry Pinnell" <terrypi...@dial.pipexTHIS.com> wrote in message
news:aisrkvo8472c4ovv8...@4ax.com...
The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.
Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
have another go.
OK never mind
http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg
stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
Mjolinor
> OK never mind
>
> http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg
>
> stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
>
>
and by the way your wire is broken at the neck where it goes through into
the housing, they all do it.
Terry Pinnell
>The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
>upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
>holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
>area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.
>
>Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
>have another go.
>
>OK never mind
>
>http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg
>
>stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
>
Many thanks, appreciate your help. Based on your advice, I was
eventually able to get yellow button off (paper knife, fair bit of
force - nervously!). But unfortunately that doesn't give me access to
the cable side of the switch as I'd hoped. Here's what I see:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/DysonSwitch.jpg
Do you know what that screw does? I'm reluctant to remove it in case
soemthing drops down inside. Even if it is possible to remove the red
switch itself somehow, I doubt I will be able to pull the cable out
with it.
So is there a way to get the enclosure off please, i.e. the one shown
here?
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson2.jpg
Jim Thompson
<terrypi...@dial.pipexTHIS.com> wrote:
>"Mjolinor" <mjol...@hotmail.com> wrote:
[snip]
>>http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg
>>
>>stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
>>
>Many thanks, appreciate your help. Based on your advice, I was
>eventually able to get yellow button off (paper knife, fair bit of
>force - nervously!). But unfortunately that doesn't give me access to
>the cable side of the switch as I'd hoped. Here's what I see:
>http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/DysonSwitch.jpg
>
>Do you know what that screw does? I'm reluctant to remove it in case
>soemthing drops down inside. Even if it is possible to remove the red
>switch itself somehow, I doubt I will be able to pull the cable out
>with it.
>
>So is there a way to get the enclosure off please, i.e. the one shown
>here?
>http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson2.jpg
Remove that screw and your ass will fall off ;-)
Seriously, my bet is, remove screw and whole assembly will slide out
along the seam-line you noted in your original picture.
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Mjolinor
Remove the screw and the top grey plastic comes off with the switch on it,
you can remove the cable then
Genome
news:SSp3b.516$FZ3.2...@newsfep2-win.server.ntli.net...
> Remove the screw and the top grey plastic comes off with the switch on it,
> you can remove the cable then
I am 110% totally impressed. There should be more people on this planet such
as yourself.
DNA
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 8/14/03
Ban
"Terry Pinnell" <terrypi...@dial.pipexTHIS.com> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:tu8skv8vhmdkff2p3...@4ax.com...
Terry,
you should send the whole thing to Genome, who will offer himself to fix it
for free, and with those saved 70pounds you can already get an Easy-Jet
return ticket to Nice.
It's 27centigrade here and I'm happy about my A/C. I swim every day in the
Mediterranean. Pass by here, but I couldn't help you with that sucker. I do
not have the required bits for these screws. :-((
ciao Ban
ciao Ban
Terry Pinnell
OK, sorted thanks. I bit the bullet and undid that screw. Happily that
let me pull out the enclosure. It was indeed a break in the (live)
feed, an inch or two from the point of entry.
CWatters
> I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
> told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
> book our engineer ...
Unfortunatly this is a fact of live these days. There is no way that a
company can advise a member of the public how to gain access to a safety
hazard. Everyone from consumers to retailers demand that manufacturers
comply with international safety regs. Compliance is not just about making a
safe product these days, you have to go to great lengths, even the wording
of a user manual is important.
If I remember correctly the standards say that a user should not be able to
gain access to a hazard using readily available tools (eg like a screwdriver
to remove one screw). There has to be a secondary level of protection like
multiple screws and or insulation on crimps etc.
If you get it wrong and someone gets hurt you get taken to court. But the
bad press is worse.
Spehro Pefhany
A fellow in the UK sent me a universal "wall wart" AC adapter (along
with some other stuff). It's got those huge old British style blades
and is held together with tamper-resistant screws that resemble flat
blade screws except the screwdriver blade would require a ~1mm slit in
the middle.
The replacement I bought locally has Philips style screws and is
easily opened.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
sp...@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
Paul Landregan
security/tamper proof bolt. There are hex with centre stud, tri wing + many
more.
A kit containing all the security type can be bought if you know where to
go.
"Spehro Pefhany" <sp...@interlog.com> wrote in message
news:gmlskv03pb27f9i44...@4ax.com...
Tim Shoppa
> switch. (Moving the cable where it enters the housing gives
> intermittent operation.)
>
> I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
> told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
> book our engineer ... 49 UKP (78 USD)" Plus VAT presumably. I'm darned
> if I'm going to fork out £50 for tightening a connection ;-(
Here in the states, some brands are better than others. Just about
all Sears appliances come with exploded diagrams and part numbers.
Ordering the spare parts isn't cheap (the replacement for the power
switch on my vacuum cost $16.00 from Sears, the knob for my Sears
washing machine was $19.00!) but they are exact fits.
Don't get me wrong - I'm not a Sears-lover in general. And I think their
parts are way overpriced. But it sure beats throwing the thing away.
Tim.
Frank Bemelman
news:bilo4u$aphq0$1...@ID-198833.news.uni-berlin.de...
> that style of slit screw head, is one of many different type of
> security/tamper proof bolt. There are hex with centre stud, tri wing +
many
> more.
> A kit containing all the security type can be bought if you know where to
> go.
What about the security screws that have sortof ramps, so you can
only rotate them clockwise, but if you turn ccw, the screwdriver works
its way out and slips. Arghh...
--
Thanks,
Frank Bemelman
(remove 'x' & .invalid when sending email)
Sam Goldwasser
> Unfortunatly this is a fact of live these days. There is no way that a
> company can advise a member of the public how to gain access to a safety
> hazard. Everyone from consumers to retailers demand that manufacturers
> comply with international safety regs. Compliance is not just about making a
> safe product these days, you have to go to great lengths, even the wording
> of a user manual is important.
>
> If I remember correctly the standards say that a user should not be able to
> gain access to a hazard using readily available tools (eg like a screwdriver
> to remove one screw). There has to be a secondary level of protection like
> multiple screws and or insulation on crimps etc.
>
> If you get it wrong and someone gets hurt you get taken to court. But the
> bad press is worse.
So a Philips screwdriver or socket wrench isn't a "readily available tool"?
Last I checked, that's all it takes to get into a microwave oven, perhaps
THE most dangerous consumer appliance to be going inside.
--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.
Michael A. Terrell
>
> What about the security screws that have sort of ramps, so you can
> only rotate them clockwise, but if you turn ccw, the screwdriver works
> its way out and slips. Arghh...
>
> --
GM/Delco used those for a while to mount under dash Tape decks in the
'70s. They told you to grind the heads off, and use new screws. One of
the techs was strong as a bull, and would lay on the floorboard, push
hard against the screw head and back them out with a regular
screwdriver.
The others techs used a cheap impact screwdriver and a 16 oz hammer
to break them loose, then take them out with a regular screwdriver. We
never had to buy any replacement hardware, and most customers asked to
have them put back in with standard hardware.
--
Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
Terry Pinnell
>Remove the screw and the top grey plastic comes off with the switch on it,
>you can remove the cable then
>
Thanks. As you probably saw from my last post, I went ahead meanwhile
and happy to say I've now fixed it. It was a broken lead as you
predicted!
Many thanks for your kind help.
The real Andy
"Genome" <Gen...@not.here.com> wrote in message
news:y9q3b.249$rh7.5...@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...
> "Mjolinor" <mjol...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:SSp3b.516$FZ3.2...@newsfep2-win.server.ntli.net...
> > Remove the screw and the top grey plastic comes off with the switch on
it,
> > you can remove the cable then
>
> I am 110% totally impressed. There should be more people on this planet
such
> as yourself.
>
ROTFL.
The real Andy
>
>
> > What about the security screws that have sortof ramps, so you can
> > only rotate them clockwise, but if you turn ccw, the screwdriver works
> > its way out and slips. Arghh...
> >
>
that
> were never intended to be mended.
>
Those thing really piss me off. I use the dremel to make to cut a slot at
right angles so i can get them out. I pisses me off even more when they are
recessed into a plastic housing, which they usually are. In that case, i
just throw them at the wall and place bets on how many pieces I can make.
Normally the wagering pays the price of the broken equipment, and if it
doesn't, at least it gets a few laughs and a cheer or two from the techs...
The real Andy
news:bec993c8.03082...@posting.google.com...
<snip>
> Here in the states, some brands are better than others. Just about
> all Sears appliances come with exploded diagrams and part numbers.
> Ordering the spare parts isn't cheap (the replacement for the power
> switch on my vacuum cost $16.00 from Sears, the knob for my Sears
> washing machine was $19.00!) but they are exact fits.
>
> Don't get me wrong - I'm not a Sears-lover in general. And I think their
> parts are way overpriced. But it sure beats throwing the thing away.
I have enforced a new policy at the company i work for - If you cannot get a
circuit diagram or spare parts, no sale. We will not buy any third party
products for retail without a schematic or spare parts list. Surprisingly,
its usually the cheaper more reliable products that come with the schematics
and parts lists.
Mjolinor
> I have enforced a new policy at the company i work for - If you cannot get
a
> circuit diagram or spare parts, no sale. We will not buy any third party
> products for retail without a schematic or spare parts list. Surprisingly,
> its usually the cheaper more reliable products that come with the
schematics
> and parts lists.
>
>
I think that in the US you have better laws regarding companies obligation
to provide service data. The UK in this respect is a long way behind. I have
a Merc and there was no way I could find information about the ignition
circuit other than through the back door of a Merc dealer. While I was
trying to do this I doscovered that in the US you could buy a CD off
Mercedes with all the relevant data on for every model for $60 or so. I also
discovered that Mercedes had refused to provide this information in
Australia and the Australian government had banned the import of Mercedes
until they backed down, which they did. The UK has now introduced rules
about what they must provide in order to sell cars here but it is still a
long way behind the US and saying they will provide it doesn't mean it is
easy to get with "sorry sir, 6 months back order" or "well it should be here
by now, I'll look into it".
It pisses me off :)
Mjolinor
> I have enforced a new policy at the company i work for - If you cannot get
a
> circuit diagram or spare parts, no sale. We will not buy any third party
> products for retail without a schematic or spare parts list. Surprisingly,
> its usually the cheaper more reliable products that come with the
schematics
> and parts lists.
>
>
I think that in the US you have better laws regarding companies obligation
Tim Shoppa
> >
> > I have enforced a new policy at the company i work for - If you cannot get
> a
> > circuit diagram or spare parts, no sale. We will not buy any third party
> > products for retail without a schematic or spare parts list. Surprisingly,
> > its usually the cheaper more reliable products that come with the
> schematics
> > and parts lists.
> >
> >
>
> I think that in the US you have better laws regarding companies obligation
> to provide service data.
We have the Magnusson-Moss Act, and while this is a significant law
enabling customers to get parts and service from sources other than the
manufacturer, it does not (in itself) require the manufacturer to make
the parts or data available except in some vary narrow circumstances.
(And when it does, it requires that the manufacturer do it for free!)
What it does do is create a market for non-OEM parts and supplies, which
gives the OEM real competition. A side-effect is that it encourages the OEM
to tell you their part numbers and let you order them, because if they
don't tell you this then you're sure to go to the competition.
Tim.
Genome
"The real Andy" <ihatehi...@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f4f1641$0$10355$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
No......! Perhaps there is something wrong with the way I interface with
people. I was not joking or taking the piss....... I was truly impressed.
Terry has a problem and asks a question.
Mjolinor gives an answer.
Terry umms and aahs a bit but takes advice then asks another question.
Mjolinor gives the answer.
Problem Solved. (Two Days)
Now that, to me, is a totally new concept for SED. I can only guess that Mr
M lives in SER.
Andre
Same here , got a faulty ignition module .
-A
Andre
> that style of slit screw head, is one of many different type of
> security/tamper proof bolt. There are hex with centre stud, tri wing + many
> more.
> A kit containing all the security type can be bought if you know where to
> go.
How about Security Maglocks ? Only works if you use a special shaped
driver with a NIB magnet at its centre . Push in to engage the centre
piece, twist and pull to remove the top of the maglock . Just the
thing for "You're never getting into this" military hardware .
;-)
<include "Noflame.cpp">
Andre
> "CWatters" <colin....@pandora.be> writes:
>
> > Unfortunatly this is a fact of live these days. There is no way that a
> > company can advise a member of the public how to gain access to a safety
> > hazard. Everyone from consumers to retailers demand that manufacturers
> > comply with international safety regs. Compliance is not just about making a
> > safe product these days, you have to go to great lengths, even the wording
> > of a user manual is important.
> >
> > If I remember correctly the standards say that a user should not be able to
> > gain access to a hazard using readily available tools (eg like a screwdriver
> > to remove one screw). There has to be a secondary level of protection like
> > multiple screws and or insulation on crimps etc.
> >
> > If you get it wrong and someone gets hurt you get taken to court. But the
> > bad press is worse.
>
> So a Philips screwdriver or socket wrench isn't a "readily available tool"?
> Last I checked, that's all it takes to get into a microwave oven, perhaps
> THE most dangerous consumer appliance to be going inside.
LOL! :)
Then again, CD players use UltraSecurity (tm) Evil-Mutated-Torx . Go figure .
-A
CWatters
> So a Philips screwdriver or socket wrench isn't a "readily available
tool"?
> Last I checked, that's all it takes to get into a microwave oven, perhaps
> THE most dangerous consumer appliance to be going inside.
I believe they are allowed if there is more than ONE screw.
Personally I think some of the rules are a little odd.
Sam Goldwasser
Duh, there are 5 screws. I guess that would take too much effort. Back
to being a couch potato. :)
Jim Thompson
<excret...@cerebrumconfus.it> wrote:
>On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 10:17:49 +0100, Mjolinor wrote:
>
>> I think that in the US you have better laws regarding companies
>> obligation to provide service data. The UK in this respect is a long way
>> behind. I have a Merc and there was no way I could find information
>> about the ignition circuit other than through the back door of a Merc
>> dealer.
>
>The UK has a long tradition of passively accepting paternalism, which has
>only comparatively recently started to change.
Have you tried purchasing a shop manual?
I can remember many years ago that I bought a '61 Renault Dauphine
manual from a company in the UK.