WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

[Micky]

WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination
CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the
little on/off/CD slide switch.

The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past
the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off
by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10
times to clean it hasn't worked yet.

Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in
the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the
switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.

Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath
has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I
don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.

I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.

I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.

BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)

[Sjouke Burry]

Trying it, will certainly not make things worse.
And cleaning/flooding the switch a day or two later with
something volatile,(alcohol,turpentine or such) will take
care of the wd40 residue(maybe).
I don't think it will make things worse.

[Retired]

According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf
"• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them

[pf...@aol.com]

A few things on WD-40.

Its name means Water Displacement - 40th try.
It is, essentially, stoddard solvent, that is highly refined kerosene and a very small amount of very light mineral oil.
It is 100% volatile over time. Which is directly related to temperature.
Most gunks and goos are soluble in WD-40. But, what is not rinsed away will be evenly distributed when the solvent evaporates. So beware!
It is a rather gentle solvent, and does not attack most plastics or finishes. *MOST*, not all!

WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. It will (temporarily) reconstitute some lubricants under some conditions.

Good luck with it, you could do worse.

[Foxs Mercantile]

On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote:
> According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
> https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf
> "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them

And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.

--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

[tabb...@gmail.com]

Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit. I'd try 100 times rather than 10.


NT

[Wade Garrett]

On 5/1/17 3:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
> On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote:
>> According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
>> https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf
>> "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them
>
> And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.
>

You're a regular party-pooper!

--
If people, who cross our border illegally are not Illegal— then what are
they?
- @chuckwoolery

[burfordTjustice]

Report back the results after you man up and try it.

[olds...@tubes.com]

On Mon, 01 May 2017 19:07:44 +0300, Micky <mis...@bigfoot.com> wrote:

> I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
>contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
>have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.

Get it on Ebay and have it shipped to you.

[Ian Jackson]

In message <b139cdd6-bb7e-4c10...@googlegroups.com>,
"pf...@aol.com" <pf...@aol.com> writes

The makers of WD40 might disagree with you.

>
>Good luck with it, you could do worse.

Indeed. WE40 may be the perfect cure for every problem - but it IS a
good general-purpose cleaner/lubricant/anti-corrosion fluid. I've never
had any problems with it.
--
ian

[et...@whidbey.com]

On Mon, 1 May 2017 10:40:36 -0700 (PDT), "pf...@aol.com" <pf...@aol.com>
wrote:

WD-40 does not completely evaporate over time unless the temperature
is higher than that which is compatible with human life. It leaves a
kind of hard residue, almost like a very hard wax. A very thin
coating. Which, unless baked on, will be easily dissloved when next
doused with WD-40. I have had direct experience with this coating. It
can be used to repaior an oil-rubbed bronze finish.
Eric

[pf...@aol.com]

On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 5:51:19 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
> WD-40 does not completely evaporate over time unless the temperature
> is higher than that which is compatible with human life.

No, it does completely evaporate. That 'leftover' is the previous skunge dissolved and spread over everything.

To prove this out:

Take a standard paper towel, clean and dry.
Saturate it in WD-40.
Leave it on a clean surface in a location in your domicile exposed to normal temperature variations.
Check it in 4-20 days depending on ambient temperatures.

Don't take my word for it.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[John Robertson]

On 2017/05/01 1:24 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
> On 5/1/17 3:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
>> On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote:
>>> According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
>>> https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf
>>> "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them
>>
>> And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.
>>
>
> You're a regular party-pooper!
>

Having cleaned the residue (glue like substance) of WD-40 from many an
electrical unit I would say that it's only practical use is for
preventing rust on tools.

Everything else is hype.

There are FAR better solvents out there than WD-40...and cheaper!

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

[John Robertson]

I have a bit of trouble with your test, Peter. If it left no residue
then WD-40 couldn't prevent rust on tools (which was all it was only
designed to do).

Instead of your paper towel, pour some WD-40 on a sheet of glass and let
it sit and evaporate for a while and see what remains.

There MUST be some sort of residue.

My shop's experience is WD-40 plus oil = glue/goo.

John :-#)#

[Phil Allison]

Micky wrote:
>
>
> I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
> contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them.
>
>

** WD40 is excellent at making bad contacts good again.

Switches, connectors and pots are all examples.


.... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Sjouke Burry wrote:
>
> >
> Trying it, will certainly not make things worse.
> And cleaning/flooding the switch a day or two later with
> something volatile,(alcohol,turpentine or such) will take
> care of the wd40 residue(maybe).
>

** No need to do that, the reside is just light mineral oil.


.... Phil

[Phil Allison]

pf...@aol.com wrote:

> A few things on WD-40.
>

** So a few lies from this norotious WD-40 hater.

> It is, essentially, stoddard solvent, that is highly refined
> kerosene and a very small amount of very light mineral oil.

** WD-40 contains no kerosene and the oil content is 10-15 %.

> It is 100% volatile over time. Which is directly related to temperature.

** At room temp, that could means years.

>
> WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner. What it does along those lines is by rinsing.
>

** So the same action as other contact cleaners.

> WD-40 is not a lubricant.

** Of course it is.




..... Phil

[Phil Allison]

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
> Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit.
>

** Which is refined petrol, aka lighter fluid.




..... Phil

[Phil Allison]

et...@whidbey.com wrote:
>
>
> WD-40 does not completely evaporate over time unless the temperature
> is higher than that which is compatible with human life. It leaves a
> kind of hard residue, almost like a very hard wax. A very thin
> coating. Which, unless baked on, will be easily dissloved when next
> doused with WD-40. I have had direct experience with this coating.
>

** Ever burn some oil in a fry pan ?

If you put WD-40 on parts that get hot, a similar residue forms.

It cleans off easily or dissolves in fresh WD-40 so is not a problem.

I see it on the pins of certain noval tubes from time to time.



.... Phil

[olds...@tubes.com]

I've never had any problems with it either, but there are tw othings ti
does not do well. 1. Loosen rusted bolts. (I use PB Blaster for that,
it's a much better product). 2. Be used as a permanent lubricant. For
example, if the tailgate on my pickup is sticking, I will use WD 40 to
loosen that linkage, but once the linkage is loose, I apply an oil or
grease to that linkage for a permanent lube. I dont think the WD 40
totally evaporates, but there is little lube left. Thus I apply the oil
or whatever as a permanent lube for that linkage.

I have never used WD 40 for electronic switch contacts or
potentiometers. I always used contact cleaner. But I have used WD 40 on
auto connectors such as trailer light plugs, with corrosion on them. It
helps clean them, but I always clean them as best as possible too.

Overall, its top promotion seems to be to loosen rusted bolts, and I
find it near worthless for that purpose. But it does have some other
uses which are valuable. It's also works rather well to clean off
oxidation on old dull paint (on cars and other metal objects).

There are other generic replacements for WD 40 that are cheaper and work
just as well. I usually buy them.

[rickman]

Very bad idea. Contact cleaner is specifically formulated for the job
and won't cause any harm to electronics. A friend used WD40 on some
very expensive chemical instrumentation as "preventive maintenance" and
the volatile solvents in it melted the shafts to the collars on the pots
freezing them. So he had a service call the next day where he had to
replace the pots he sprayed.

--

Rick C

[rickman]

Until you use it on one where the plastic bits dissolve and melt together.

--

Rick C

[Phil Allison]

Prickman is a Liar wrote:

>
>
> > I don't think it will make things worse.
>
> Very bad idea.
>

** Lie number 1.

> Contact cleaner is specifically formulated for the job

** Lie number two.

Most so called "contact cleaners" are hopeless at fixing noisy switches and pots. The solvents use are too weak and evaporate so fast they do not do anything. Plus there is no residual oil to protect metal surfaces from corrosion.

> A friend used WD40 on some

> very expensive chemical instrumentation ...
>


** Why is it always a "friend" who has weird experience with WD40 and never the person posting ??

Cos the story is a complete fabrication.



... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Prickman is a Liar wrote:

>

>Phil Allison wrote:
>
> > ** WD40 is excellent at making bad contacts good again.
> >
> > Switches, connectors and pots are all examples.
>
>
> Until you use it on one where the plastic bits dissolve and melt together.
>
>

** Massive LIE !!

WD40 does not harm plastics used to make electronic or electrical components.

That is the oldest and STUPIDEST crock of shit trotted out by WD40 haters.

The Prickman is a parroting MORON.



.... Phil

[Clifford Heath]

I've been meaning to thank you for telling us that some months back.

In my Yamaha A-520 stereo amp, I've been putting up for several
years now with a noisy/intermittent balance pot for several years.
Only one channel working most of the time, and when you finally
get both to work, one was significantly louder than the other.
It looks like a big job to disassemble it enough to replace.

A quick squirt of WD-40 and it seems as good as new.
I wouldn't have done it on anyone else's recommendation.

Clifford Heath.

[Ian Jackson]

In message <v6udnTMQQbl1JprE...@giganews.com>, John
Robertson <sp...@flippers.com> writes

>On 2017/05/01 1:24 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
>> On 5/1/17 3:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
>>> On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote:
>>>> According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
>>>> https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_2000_uses_updated_jan_2017.pdf
>>>> "• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them
>>>
>>> And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.
>>>
>>
>> You're a regular party-pooper!
>>
>
>Having cleaned the residue (glue like substance) of WD-40 from many an
>electrical unit I would say that it's only practical use is for
>preventing rust on tools.
>
>Everything else is hype.
>
>There are FAR better solvents out there than WD-40...and cheaper!
>

Cheaper than the old can you've had in the tool-shed for the last 20
years, but which has been your saviour on the odd occasion when you've
suddenly needed a general-purpose lubricant / switch cleaner / rusty nut
freer / corrosion inhibitor ?
>

--
Ian

[Ian Jackson]

In message <oe8m0u$n9s$2...@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com>
writes

While I'm sure that there have been occasions when a squirt of WD40 has
dissolved everything in sight, I've been using it for decades, and I've
never found it has ever caused any such damage.
--
Ian

[Phil Allison]

Clifford Heath wrote:

> Phil Allison wrote:
>
> > ** WD40 is excellent at making bad contacts good again.
> > Switches, connectors and pots are all examples.
> >
>

> I've been meaning to thank you for telling us that some months back.
>
> In my Yamaha A-520 stereo amp, I've been putting up for several
> years now with a noisy/intermittent balance pot for several years.
> Only one channel working most of the time, and when you finally
> get both to work, one was significantly louder than the other.
> It looks like a big job to disassemble it enough to replace.
>
> A quick squirt of WD-40 and it seems as good as new.
> I wouldn't have done it on anyone else's recommendation.
>

** Thanks or the vote of confidence.

Often, the effect of using a little WD40 is so quick and complete it seems almost magical.


.... Phil

[gregz]

It does not displace water unless it's the blast. It floats on water. PB
Blaster displaces water.

Greg

[pf...@aol.com]

WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either. It is meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and protecting tools *with something else*.

Try the test.

WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion. It is a very simple compound designed for a few very basic purposes.

https://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf

[pf...@aol.com]

The MSDS for WD-40 is posted previously. Look up the numbers.

[Jeff Layman]

On 02/05/17 12:16, pf...@aol.com wrote:
> WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.

From the link you quoted:
"Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out
Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces
From Corrosion"

Why do you believe that "Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion"
does not include removing or protecting against rust? From the Wikipedia
article on "Rust":
"Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys".

. It is
> meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and
> protecting tools *with something else*.
>
> Try the test.

I have, many times. It just works.

> WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion. It is a
> very simple compound designed for a few very basic purposes.

It is not a compound. A compound is a single entity . It is a mixture of
compounds (including "non-hazardous ingredients", which appear to be, or
include, sodium bisulfite). The actual amounts are given as ranges.

> https://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf
>
> Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

--

Jeff

[Adrian Caspersz]

On 02/05/17 12:16, pf...@aol.com wrote:

It washes out the proper & better lubricants.

We have a sliding door that does get a bit stiff, so a while ago a
regular spray of WD40 sorted it - until it got stuck again. Then another
respray.

Now I've I fixed the respray issue more or less permanently with light
machine oil. Actually another known household brand name, 3-in-1.

When it later needs a clean, I'll use WD40 - then back with the oil.

Because of the advertising, the non-technical "my tv is broke, must be
the switch" tend to overuse the product on anything things that are not
suited, I'm sure some here will have seen examples of overendevous
application on deck mechanics and electronics.

--
Adrian C

[ohg...@gmail.com]

As much as I hate to agree with Phil, I believe he's right.

I've learned about unintended solvent welding of plastics with all kinds of spray elixirs, and I've also learned to test each one on soft plastics so I have an idea of what kind of consequences (if any) to expect upon usage.

WD40 has never shown any tendency to soften or otherwise affect plastics that I'm aware of. Is there a strange plastic formula that WD might affect that I've never encountered? Possibly, but I've never seen it, at least not at the level that plastic controls might be constructed of.

Maybe the "friend's" controls weren't solvent welded at all, but bound by the original hardened lubricant that was dissolved and rehardened later after being flushed into the shaft.

[rbowman]

On 05/02/2017 01:45 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
> While I'm sure that there have been occasions when a squirt of WD40 has
> dissolved everything in sight, I've been using it for decades, and I've
> never found it has ever caused any such damage.
> -

Not WD-40 but I found out that using Lock-Ease on a bicycle chain lock
with plastic internal parts is a poor idea :) Even worse is having the
chain wrapped around the bike and an immobile object at the time.

[rickman]

This was laboratory equipment that had never seen any harsh treatment.
Anything is possible I suppose, so maybe the controls weren't melted by
the WD-40. But the fact remains that regardless of the exact details
surrounding the problem, it was caused by the indiscriminate use of
WD-40 where it does nothing to help.

So caution is advised when using WD-40 on electronics regardless of the
details of how it mucks up the works.

--

Rick C

[et...@whidbey.com]

On Mon, 1 May 2017 15:50:09 -0700 (PDT), "pf...@aol.com" <pf...@aol.com>
wrote:

Peter, I discovered this residue after cleaning a machine well with
solvent and then spraying wirth WD-40. There was left behind a hard
coating on all the previously cleaned metal surfaces. I have since
learned to use this to advantage when repairing an oil rubbed bronze
finish that has been damamged by machining operations. After texturing
and oxidizing the bright bronze machined surface I heat, then spray,
then heat and then spray again with WD-40. This ends up being almost
exactly a US-10 oil rubbed bronze finish and wears identically.
Eric

[Jeff Layman]

On 02/05/17 13:06, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
>
> Now I've I fixed the respray issue more or less permanently with light
> machine oil. Actually another known household brand name, 3-in-1.

http://www.concept2.co.uk/files/pdf/us/miscellaneous/MISC_MSDS_3-in-1-Oil.pdf

> When it later needs a clean, I'll use WD40 - then back with the oil.

The money all ends up at the same place!

--

Jeff

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

I can tell you one thing it is DEFINITELY no good for.
I have EuroVynyl brand tilt turn side dlider windiws - made with Rehau
vinyl extrusions. When cleaning the windows my wife drcided to
lubricate the pivot blocks with WD-40.She then could not get the
blocks to slide in the track. I ended up moving the top block far
enough to pop the window sash out of the sliders, drive the block to
the end, cut the top of the track and pry out the block. Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

If using wd-40 to disolve hardened grease in a slide switch, ALWAYS
finish the job with a contact cleaner to flush out the remains.

In automotive switches, like power window, door lock, headlight, etc,
when I've had to dissassemble them and clean/polish contacts etc I
re-assemble using a synthetic silicone based grease which won't
harden.WD 40 can be an effective solvent for softeninf and removing
the old "boogers" - . It can also be acceptable for "burnishing"
plug-in connectors and keeping them from corroding - things like
wiring harnes plugs - but the old TV Tuner dope works a lot better if
you can still find it.

[ohg...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Luckily I had
> purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
> manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
> was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
> alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
> the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
> didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

[Micky]

I think there are 3 topics you're not supposed to talk about at work
(since you have to continue to see those people): politics, religion,
and WD-40.
>>

[Dave Platt]

> > Luckily I had
>> purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
>> manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
>> was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
>> alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
>> the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
>> didn't like WD-40.

>I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the
>WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

According to the chart at

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html

mineral oil has a "C" compatibility rating for polycarbonate and
polypropylene ("Moderate attack of appreciable absorption. Material
will have limited life.")

For "Lubricating oils (petroleum)" HDPE also gets a "C" rating.

For "white spirit", the plastics listed are all either "A" (no attack,
possibly slight absorption, negigible effect on mechanical properties)
or "*" (no data available).

[rickman]

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem or if
other products cause the same problem? The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the materials
won't be affected by it.

Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.

--

Rick C

[ohg...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 5:22:46 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
> On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> > Luckily I had
> >> purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
> >> manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
> >> was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
> >> alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
> >> the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
> >> didn't like WD-40.
> >
> > I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.
>
> Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem or if
> other products cause the same problem?

For the purposes of the discussion, I think it does. If most spray elixirs use some sort of petroleum based oil that has a long term affect on certain plastics, then it's not fair to single out WD40 particularly. In any case, I don't recall any other spray solutions that use a synthetic lube that trumpet the fact that they are safe for all plastics. If WD had a known issue with plastics, someone (if not the WD folks) would surely step in with a fix product to steal the sales.

The point is that WD-40 is not a
> good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the materials
> won't be affected by it.

That's good advice for any external additive. I always test the material in question. Still, other than the fellow with the swollen window blocks (probably an interference fit as it was designed), I think WD-40 will have no affect on electrical connectors.

> Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
> that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
> reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.
>

I don't even use the stuff...

[Clifford Heath]

On 02/05/17 21:43, Jeff Layman wrote:
> On 02/05/17 12:16, pf...@aol.com wrote:
>> WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.
>
> From the link you quoted:
> "Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out
> Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces
> From Corrosion"
>
> Why do you believe that "Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion"
> does not include removing or protecting against rust? From the Wikipedia
> article on "Rust":
> "Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys".
>
> . It is
>> meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and
>> protecting tools *with something else*.
>>
>> Try the test.
>
> I have, many times. It just works.

Not hear, it doesn't. Very humid and warm, and any
unprotected tools repeatedly get surface rust, despite
treatment with WD-40. I must buy some proper anti-rust
spray, and use it after I've de-rusted everything in
the citric acid bath.

[rickman]

I don't know what "fair" has to do with it. Someone suggested using
WD-40 as a contact cleaner and I as well as a couple others pointed out
it can cause problems. Others disputed this. Bottom line it WD-40 is
not safe to use without checking the materials in use. There are many
products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
cause these problems.

> The point is that WD-40 is not a
>> good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the
>> materials won't be affected by it.
>
>
> That's good advice for any external additive.

Exactly. Some here have said WD-40 is universally safe to use when it
is not.

> I always test the
> material in question.

How exactly do you do that without using it on the product in question?

> Still, other than the fellow with the swollen
> window blocks (probably an interference fit as it was designed), I
> think WD-40 will have no affect on electrical connectors.

I can't say that universally. As I mentioned, a friend used it on an
expensive piece of chemical instrumentation and it froze the controls.
I guess if the problem is caused by swelling the material and the
connector has a very loose fit, it might not cause a problem. But why
take the chance when there are other products that just plain *won't*
cause a problem?

>> Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to
>> consider that anything other than their own personal experience
>> constitutes reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.
>>
>
>
> I don't even use the stuff...
>

--

Rick C

[Phil Allison]

Peter Fuckwit wrote:

>
> WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.
>

** IME it does both and it say so on the can too.

>
> WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion.
>

** Wot an idiot "straw man" to bring up.

Proves you know fuck all about the many uses of WD40.



..... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Peter Fuckwit wrote:

> > >
> > > Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit.
> > >
> >
> >
> > ** Which is refined petrol, aka lighter fluid.
> >
>
>

> The MSDS for WD-40 is posted previously.
>

** Irrelevant.

The WD40 company regularly changes the terminology used.

It used to say it was mostly naptha.

The hydrocarbon propellant was changed to CO2, a couple of decades back.

Maybe that explains Global Warming....


.... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Dave Platt wrote:

>>
> According to the chart at
>
> http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html
>

** Irrelevant - cos charts like that are based on long term contact.

The solvents in WD40 **vanish** after a short time leaving only mineral oil behind.

Do you own tests and you will see nothing happens.

BTW: you are being a PITA troll.


.... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Prickman the Liar wrote:



>
> Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem
>

** There simply is NO problem.

You bullshitting IDIOT !!!!!

>
> Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
> that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
> reality.
>

** They are the sane people.

You are a deluded idiot.





..... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Prickman is a damn LIAR wrote:

-----------------------------

> Someone suggested using
> WD-40 as a contact cleaner and I as well as a couple others pointed out
> it can cause problems.
>

** Massive LIE.

It is simply not possible to "point out" a non-existent problem.

You are PF are clueless mental retards who post nothing but BULLLSHIT.



> Others disputed this.

** Yeah - all the sane ones here.

> Bottom line it WD-40 is
> not safe to use without checking the materials in use.

** Insane, absurd, fucking crazy BULLSHIT !!!

> There are many
> products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
> cause these problems.
>

** MASSIVE LIE !!!!

There are no such products cos there is no such problem.

The term "contact cleaner" is not clearly defined - products just like WD-40 can be called that name.

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface protection.

FFS ** fuck OFF ** - you WD40 hating LUNATIC !!!



.... Phil

[Foxs Mercantile]

On 5/2/2017 10:48 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
> no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
> intermittent switches and the like.
>
> To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
> lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
> protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.

The only things I use WD-40 for are:
1. Hosing a distributor cap and ignition wiring after it's
gotten wet. I used to do this regularly with a '65 Dodge
Slant-six engine.
2. Removing labels from equipment and the adhesive residue.
3. Occasionally spraying to the of my table saw. (It's cast
iron.)
4. Using it instead of ether as a spray starter for 2-cycle
engines. (Like chain saws and the like.) Although I think
they stopped using propane as a propellant.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

[Phil Allison]

Foxs Mercantile wrote:
>
> Phil Allison wrote:
>>
> > If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
> > no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
> > intermittent switches and the like.
> >
> > To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
> > lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
> > protection.
>
> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
>

** You must be a raving nut case.




.... Phil

[Foxs Mercantile]

Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.

[Ian Jackson]

In message <oec86t$oit$1...@gioia.aioe.org>, Foxs Mercantile
<jda...@att.net> writes

>On 5/3/2017 1:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
>> Foxs Mercantile wrote:
>>>
>>> Phil Allison wrote:
>>>>
>>>> If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
>>>> no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
>>>> intermittent switches and the like.
>>>>
>>>> To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
>>>> lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
>>>> protection.
>>>
>>> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
>>> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
>>>
>>
>> ** You must be a raving nut case.
>
>Well thank you Phil.
>I just stated what I use.
>I do it because it works.

You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?
>
>
>

--
Ian

[Foxs Mercantile]

On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
> You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
> thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.
>
> I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
> it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
> are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
> than a quick squirt of WD?

As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.

As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)

I just don't feel comfortable using it.

[Phil Allison]

Foxs Mercantile wrote:
>
> Phil Allison wrote:
>
> >>> If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
> >>> no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
> >>> intermittent switches and the like.
> >>>
> >>> To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
> >>> lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
> >>> protection.
> >>
> >> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
> >> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
> >>
> >
> > ** You must be a raving nut case.
>
> Well thank you Phil.

** No problem - exposing usenet fakes like you is a pleasure.

> I just stated what I use.

** But nobody asked ....

> I do it because it works.
>

** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.

A word of advice:

FOAD you pathetic damn troll.



.... Phil

[Phil Allison]

Ian Jackson wrote:
>
> Foxs Mercantile

>
> >>>
> >>> Phil Allison wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
> >>>> no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
> >>>> intermittent switches and the like.
> >>>>
> >>>> To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
> >>>> lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
> >>>> protection.
> >>>
> >>> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
> >>> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
> >>>
> >>
> >> ** You must be a raving nut case.
> >
>
> >Well thank you Phil.
> >I just stated what I use.
> >I do it because it works.
>
>
> You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
> thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.
>
> I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
> sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
> that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?
>

** The damn shame is that he IS so convinced.

But that is a sad comment about HIM and nothing else.

The famous "one born every minute" observation is a marketeer's byword.




.... Phil

[Foxs Mercantile]

On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
> ** Same goes for everyone here.
>
> But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.
>
> ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.
>
> You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.
>
> " It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.
>
> The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.

And THERE is your justification for WD-40.

Well played Phil.

[Phil Allison]

Foxs Mercantile wrote:

> On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
>
> > ** Same goes for everyone here.
> >
> > But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the
> > sleaziest product scams out.
> >
> > ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.
> >
> > You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.
> >
> > " It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.
> >
> > The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.
>
>
> And THERE is your justification for WD-40.
>
>

** You are nothing less than a dead cunt Mr Fox.

Congratulations.




.... Phil

[rickman]

It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.

--

Rick C

[Phil Allison]

Prickman the Liar wrote:

.
>..
...

> >>>
> >>> You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.
> >>>
> >>> " It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.
> >>>
> >>> The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.
> >>
> >>
> >> And THERE is your justification for WD-40.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ** You are nothing less than a dead cunt Mr Fox.
> >
> > Congratulations.
> >
> >

>>.....

>
>>
> It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
>
> --
>
> Rick C
>

..
...


** The "C" stands for cunt - right ?

And you are so proud of that.



.... Phil

[pf...@aol.com]

> It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.

Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to the correctness of his position.

I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon, and use it in refillable pressurized aerosol cans filled from my handy compressor. I will rinse all sorts of stuff, even soak stuff in a small ultrasound in WD-40 when I am sure that it is compatible with whatever it is. But in 40 years around it, I have never used it for or relied on it as a lubricant, rust protectant, rust remover or any of many other 'off label' "2,000 uses" supported by many. It is a handy, pretty benign solvent that even when contaminated with old skunge may be used as a safe fire-starter, mixed with kitty-litter and bagged for proper disposal, and any of several other environmentally neutral purposes.

For a fact, it will get _everything_ off an old clock mechanism, and when mixed with a bit of Oleic acid, gets the brass nice and bright (another discussion).

Point being that there are many other, better, no more/less costly preparations for electronic purposes than WD-40 (nor am I including the Caig Laboratories products in this group) that I would go off-label electronically with WD-40. WD-40's virtue is also its bane: It dissolves old skunge and spreads it nice and thin - unless rinsed off thoroughly one gets that varnish-like sticky coating leaving things far worse than before.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[bruce2...@gmail.com]

On Mon, 01 May 2017, Micky <mis...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
> WD-40 to clean electric contacts?
>
> I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination
> CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the
> little on/off/CD slide switch.
>
> The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past
> the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off
> by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10
> times to clean it hasn't worked yet.
>
> Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in
> the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the
> switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.
>
> Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath
> has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I
> don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.
>
> I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
> contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
> have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.
>
> I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
> contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.
>
> BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
> fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
> yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)

I never knew WD40 could work with non-metal. Look at this CD unjamming article:

Muskegon Chronicle: Stan Harrison: Jammed DVD/CD tray? Fix it yourself for less than $1 - Mar 4, 2012 It's happened to you. I know it has.

Getting started (middle of article)

Unplug the DVD player and take it to your workshop. Make sure you have a clean surface and plenty of light. A flashlight can help when looking at small parts. You'll need a small Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a cotton swab and some WD-40 lubricant.

First, look at the underside of the player. On some models, there's a slot that might say something like this: "For ejection, insert a pin and push to left." In other words, if the DVD tray is stuck -- like yours is -- stick a straightened paper clip or narrow screwdriver in the slot and push it to the left. Voila! The tray will pop open, and you can retrieve your DVD. If you can get the tray open, leave it partially open. It will make removing the cover of the DVD player easier.

And that's the next step -- removing the cover. Carefully study the case and remove any screws that look as though they're holding the cover in place. Be sure to sort the screws. Tape them to a sheet of paper and label them so you'll be able to properly reassemble the player.

Once you've removed the cover, you should be able to easily slide the tray open. If you can't, don't force it. Forcing the tray could strip or damage the gears, and then you will indeed be buying that new DVD player. Instead, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press against the cogs on one of the gears beneath the tray. You may have to tip the player on its side and peer into the tray slot with a flashlight. As you push the screwdriver to rotate the gears, the tray should start to slide open.

Replacing the broken belt

Once the tray slides open, you should be able to see a small motor, some gears, and if you're lucky, a broken belt. Remove and keep the broken belt for size. If the belt is missing, take a piece of string and snugly wrap it where the belt should be. Mark and cut the string to size. This will be the size of your replacement belt.

Now for the cheap trick. With the broken belt or piece of string in hand, head for the plumbing section -- that's right, the plumbing section -- of your hardware store or home center. You'll want a rubber O-ring, which is typically used to repair leaky, dripping faucets. Find an O-ring that matches as closely as possible the size of your broken belt or your piece of string. If you can't find an exact match, go for the slightly smaller size.

Put the rubber O-ring in place on your DVD player. If the tray struggles to open or close, the O-ring may be too small. If the next size up is too large, try flexing the O-ring a bit to loosen it up.

Now, using a cotton swab, apply a small amount of WD-40 to the tray guides (groves along the bottom of the tray) for lubrication. This will help the tray glide more easily.

Reattach the cover (you do remember which screws go where, right?) and you're back in business!

Not only have you saved yourself $40, but by not tossing your DVD player into the landfill, you've helped save the planet.

You've just finished watching your favorite movie on DVD, then press the eject button on your DVD player.

Nothing happens. You press again. And again. And again. The tray is stuck. Now what?

You could take your DVD player to the nearest electronics repair shop. But they'd probably charge just as much or more to look at it as it would cost to replace it. So unless your DVD player is still under warranty or you've purchased an extended warranty, you're out of luck.

Instead, you resign yourself to purchasing a new DVD player, one of those inexpensive ones for less than $40. You pry your stuck player open, retrieve your DVD, junk the now-damaged player and head to the nearest big box electronics store.

Save yourself that $40. Sometimes simply unplugging the player for a few minutes will reset the electronics, and you'll once again have a fully functioning DVD player. If that doesn't work, don't give up yet. For a trip to a hardware store or home center and less than $1, you still might be able to fix that stuck DVD tray yourself.
The DVD tray is connected to a series of gears, a motor and a rubber belt. When the motor is engaged, it turns the belt, which in turn moves the gears that open or close the tray. The problem typically is a broken belt. The motor turns on, but with no belt, it can't turn the gears that operate the tray.

Of course, you could try to buy a new rubber belt online -- if you can find one. But even though the cost of the belt itself wouldn't be much, the cost of shipping would hardly make it worth your while.

(Start of article)
So what'll it be -- $1 or $40? There's nothing to lose. Even if you mess up while attempting your own repair, you simply end up buying yourself a new DVD player anyway.
-- http://www.mlive.com/homeandgarden/index.ssf/2012/03/stan_harrison_jammed_dvdcd_tra.html

[Phil Allison]

Peter Fuckwit..@aol.com wrote:
>
> > It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
>
> Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to
> the correctness of his position.
>

** One can learn a lot from the Wieck troll - by just taking the opposite of everything he posts.

> I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon,

** So fucking what ?

You know fuck all about the topic of this thread and yet insist on posting more meaningless concertos for solo trumpet.

Hurry up and die, you vile autistic old troll.




.... Phil

[Mike]

In article <oeavu0$pl3$1...@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com> wrote:

>not safe to use without checking the materials in use. There are many
>products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
>cause these problems.

Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
into runny black goo.

Cleaned the wave-band switch a treat, but I'm glad it only puddled in
the inside corner, and not so much the outside!

--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

[Phil Allison]

Mike wrote:

>
>
> Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
> cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
> inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
> into runny black goo.
>
>
>

** This the one?

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/precision-cleaners-degreasers/0180831/

That is a strong grease solvent, meant for mechanical stuff.


FYI:

Here is a spray can with the title:

"Contact Cleaner and Protector"

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/contact-cleaners/3883814/

Far as I can tell from the data sheets, its WD-40 under another name.


.... Phil

[Mike]

In article <e35a11da-efec-41aa...@googlegroups.com>,

Phil Allison <palli...@gmail.com> wrote:

>> Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
>> cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
>> inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
>> into runny black goo.

>** This the one?
>http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/precision-cleaners-degreasers/0180831/
>That is a strong grease solvent, meant for mechanical stuff.

Not that one. It was a *lot* of years back, and his since been
used and chucked. A round can with screw-on lid, and internally a
"reversible" aluminium delivery tube, which you rotated 180' and
poked out through a hole in the lid to use it.

Khaki green print on white. No idea what the RS part code was, but
it was "own branded".

But it was definitely a switch cleaner ... it never damaged a switch
or pot, but it didn't agree with that thermoplastic case :(

[vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com]

In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.

Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

[avag...@gmail.com]

CRC electronics cleaner from Walmart. Exotic cleaners from Allied Electronics

WD is deodorized kerosene.

WD would emulsify heavy deposits n then use CRC removing the WD.

CRC bottles on the shelf used with the pipe are compressed air/solvent tools.

[avag...@gmail.com]

when cleaning with CRC n pipe, full flow is designed n appliedas the fluid evaps leaving a clean surface but with silicone or WD try an artists paint brush or Q tip .....PCBlaster also. PC asks for a slow down wobbly pin pressure for the first half tank.

[whit3rd]

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 3:32:05 AM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
> Foxs Mercantile wrote:

> > >> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
> > >> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.

> But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.
>
> ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
a product, once.

Their marketing looks like snake oil, but at least some of the products are
useful. And, to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.

[whit3rd]

On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.
>
> Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.

[rickman]

Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
in a few seconds evaporates totally.

--

Rick C

[Phil Allison]

avag...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> CRC electronics cleaner from Walmart.
>

** CRC is a brand, not a product.

CRC 2-26 is near identical to WD40.


> WD is deodorized kerosene.
>

** Utter BULLSHIT !!!!

Rest of you absurd crap deleted.

[Phil Allison]

whit3rd wrote:
-------------

> >
> > But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of
> > the sleaziest product scams out.
> >
> > ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.
>
> Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
> contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
> a product, once.
>
> Their marketing looks like snake oil, but at least some of the products are
> useful.
>
> And, to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.
>
>
>

** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.



..... Phil

[whit3rd]

That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the
water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.
Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower
so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.

For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required
anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off
of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.

[rickman]

On 5/9/2017 8:29 PM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 6:35:37 PM UTC-7, rickman wrote:
>> On 5/8/2017 7:56 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>>> On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>>>> In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.
>>>>
>>>> Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.
>>>
>>> There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
>>> pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
>>> is just as good, and less expensive.
>>
>> Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
>> Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
>> evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
>> in a few seconds evaporates totally.
>
> That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the
> water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.

Not correct unless there is too much water. Acetone forms an azeotrope
with water which evaporates first, ahead of either purer water or purer
acetone. If your acetone absorbs enough water to cause this problem you
need to get your lab out of the river.

> Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower
> so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.

If you don't mind waiting, why use either?

> For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required
> anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off
> of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.

The dirt should have been rinsed off. If you have crud remaining in the
rinse water your washer isn't working.

--

Rick C

[whit3rd]

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:48:29 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:

> whit3rd wrote:

> > > ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.
> >
> > Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
> > contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
> > a product, once.

> >Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.

> ** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.

Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk. If you
have enough access to scrub, any cleaner would work as well, I suspect. The grease, though,
and the 'enhancer' products (blue, or gold) that leave a film behind, they work.

The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

[Phil Allison]

whit3rd wrote:
--------------

>
> > >Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
> > > none of their competition is any better.
>
> > ** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
> > way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.
>
>
> Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.
>

** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.

>
> The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

** Yawnnnnnnnnnn

One born every minute....


..... Phil

[jurb...@gmail.com]

I have found that LPS2 works even better, but it is bit re expensive and hard to get locally.

There is one type of pot it does bother though, the sliders with the nylon looking sliders. (under the knobs) It froxe up the ones in a Soundcraftsman EQ for me, nut then so did everything else. The (looks like) nylon they is is probably very porous. And nothing will fix it, all you can do is wait until it all evaporates out. Only thing I can figure it that it swells that particular material. The nice thing is I do not see that type of plastic or whatever used in very much.

The only Caig product I like is Deoxit because that is actually a reducer. For lubing afterward, WD or LPS or even white lithium grease.

The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.

Thing is, Deoxit is so expensive that its use is only warranted for certain things.

That's what I have found over the decades. that these things are safe on ALMOST everything. Acetone on the other hand has to kept away from cabinet parts and other plastics. The main thing I used it for was to clean PC boards after a coolant leak in an RPTV. You might never have had to do that, those were not as popular other places from when I hear. The US loved them, especially the later ones that had a good picture. After he coolant started a few fires, manufacturers started putting gutters in them to keep it off the PC boards. It is not conductive but when exposed to voltage it becomes conductive as well as corrosive. it gets as bad as that shit that leaked out of the electrolyics.

[Phil Allison]

jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

------------------------

>
>
> The one thing I noticed about WD40 is when used to clean the old
> mechanical tuners in TVs it would detune them until most of it
> evaporated, LPS2 was much better for that application.
>

** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant.

It is *NUTS* to spray any oil bearing fluid onto RF circuitry - oil has a much higher dielectric constant than air. It therefore adds capacitance to any coil, wiring, PCB pattern or tuning gang it lands on.

The correct procedure with rotary TV tuners was to apply some WD-40 to a small piece of paper which is then wedged between the moving contacts while the tuner is turned. This cleans up the contacts nicely while preventing any oil getting on the RF coils.

Anecdote 1:

I once had a customer who decided to fix his FM tuner by spraying WD-40 all over the PCB and tuning gang. Afterwards, the stations had moved half way across the dial.

It took me a over an hour hour, using various solvents to get the oil off everything and put them back where they were. A tiny bit of WD-40 on the bearings of the gang fixed the noise he has been getting.

Anecdote 2.

Folk who run RC cars and boats can end up with a wet, non functioning radio receiver - so they reach for the WD40. Big mistake.

The correct procedure is to wash the PCB in denatured alcohol (aka Metho) and then allow to dry in the sun or using hot air.



.... Phil

[whit3rd]

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 7:11:25 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
> whit3rd wrote:

[about Caig]

> > > >Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
> > > > none of their competition is any better.
> >
> > > ** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
> > > way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.

> > Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.

> ** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.

> > The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

> One born every minute....

Yes, Phil, you ARE easily fooled. It isn't about the snake oil or the sales
force's farce of literature, and the confusing products (five of them called "DeOxit").
It's about the products. I'm the guy with the milliohm data, and some
idea of which product I'm talking about. You're the one with the sneer.

[Phil Allison]

whit3rd wrote:

---------------

> > > > >Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
> > > > > none of their competition is any better.
> > >
> > > > ** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
> > > > way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.
>
> > > Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.
>
> > ** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bullshit.
>
> > > The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.
>
> > One born every minute....
>
> Yes, Phil, you ARE easily fooled.
>

** We'll see.

> It isn't about the snake oil or the sales
> force's farce of literature, and the confusing products (five of them
> called "DeOxit").
> It's about the products. I'm the guy with the milliohm data, and some
> idea of which product I'm talking about. You're the one with the sneer.
>

** That load of meaningless shit has *FOOL* written all over it.

Your done, go away.


..... Phil

[pf...@aol.com]

Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

[rickman]

On 5/10/2017 11:23 AM, pf...@aol.com wrote:
> Remember: Phil's fulminations are in inverse proportion to the accuracy of his position.

I take it that provoking Phil to expel expletives is a sport in this group?

--

Rick C

[jurb...@gmail.com]

>"** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant. "

They smell different. Nearly identical of course, but not exactly identical.

[rickman]

On 5/10/2017 11:42 AM, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
>> "** WD-40 and LPS2 are near identical products, same ingredients in the same percentages and both use CO2 as a propellant. "
>
> They smell different. Nearly identical of course, but not exactly identical.

Parfum de WD-40

--

Rick C

[Ian Jackson]

In message <oevcmc$9hi$3...@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com>
writes

A dab behind your ears before you go out clubbing will make you
irresistible, and you'll never go home without a smile on your face.
--
Ian

[ohg...@gmail.com]

Yes, but what you'll go home with is likely an auto mechanic or pig farmer, of the wrong sex I'm afraid. Any woman that will find WD attractive goes home with other women...

[ohg...@gmail.com]

Not much sport Rick. "Sport" would indicate some sort of skill or difficulty involved, and there is none when provoking Phil.

But Phil runs hot and cold. Sometimes (well, often) vile (wishing cancer or death on those with whom he disagrees, etc.) sometimes almost charming.

He's bright and knowledgeable, but will NEVER concede when he's wrong. Always fascinating though.

[rickman]

Interesting use of the word "fascinating"...

--

Rick C

[ohg...@gmail.com]

Yes, but *not* inaccurate...

[Phil Allison]

ohg...@gmail.com wrote:

-------------------------

> But Phil runs hot and cold. Sometimes (well, often) vile
> (wishing cancer or death on those with whom he disagrees, etc.)
>

** I never post that sort of thing just because I disagree.

Find an example and see how WRONG you are.

> He's bright and knowledgeable, but will NEVER concede when he's
> wrong.
>

** Find and post an example where you are certain I was wrong.

Bet you cannot find even on.



..... Phil

[gregz]

I used both LPS2 and WD40 and I didn't find them similar. LPS more oily and
smells different. LPS1 might be mre similar. CRC 2-26 also seems different.
More oily than WD40. I like it better as a lube.

Greg

[gregz]

Foxs Mercantile <jda...@att.net> wrote:
> On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
>> You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
>> thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.
>>
>> I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
>> it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
>> are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
>> than a quick squirt of WD?
>
> As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.
>
> As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
> table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
> all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
> on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
> Phil?)
>
> I just don't feel comfortable using it.
>

I never had a problem using WD40 on anything, except pots would need more
at some point. Just does not last as a lube.

Greg

[gregz]

I want some LPS3 or rustproofing my car parts. I think it might be good on
connectors too.

Greg

[John Robertson]

Um, why do you think WD-40 is anything but a rust preventative? The rest
is simply marketing hype.

Much like you can lubricate anything with H2O if you want to, but there
are better products DESIGNED for lubrication, etc.

The fact that WD-40 CAN lubricate, doesn't mean it SHOULD. it wasn't
designed for that purpose and so is third or fourth choice at best.

Emergency usage, sure, then clean it off as soon as you can, unles syou
don't want the item to rust. Use it on something that I care about
working reliably, never.

After all - that is why we have brains, so we can think about what we
are doing and apply the best solution.

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

[gregz]

I think an oil based and mineral spirits based product used like WD40, as
well as Caig Deoxit, will stay on the item to be cleaned longer. Longer
cleaning, better. You can always wash off later with non residue cleaner.
In fact, one of the best cleaners Cramolin Contaclean, says to wash off
after cleaning. There are a number of products for electronics that have a
base carrier and a type of oil, might seem unfair to pick on WD40. Plenty
of non residue cleaners or electronics. The CRC 2-26 somewhat similar to
WD40, says right on can, improves electrical properties, plastic safe. I'm
not seeing much difference in ingredients. There are far fewer only
lubricants, Caig Faderlube being one.

Greg