On 16 Feb., 23:43, John Larkin <
jlar...@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 17:07:41 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
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> <speffS...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:
> >On Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:55:25 -0800, Joerg <inva...@invalid.invalid>
> >wrote:
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> >>Very brazen folks use a (small!) Y-rated cap and use that to do an
> >>el-cheapo transfer. Sans optocoupler. But one has to know what one is
> >>doing or there'll be grief.
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> >One approach, where accuracy is important (such as phase control) is
> >to create a DC supply on the 'hot' side and pass the zero crossing as
> >a pulse straddling the zero crossing, using a high speed optocoupler
> >such as the venerable H11. You don't need much in the way of dropping
> >resistor since the LED drive current is only drawn for some tens of
> >microseconds at the zero crossing (while the input voltage is within a
> >few volts of zero). Takes a few more components though (on the hot
> >side).
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> >The simple-simon cheap approach is to use an AC-input optocoupler and
> >a dropping resistor, and a pullup at the micro. But speed of the opto
> >vs. watts in the dropping resistor vs. pullup vs. accuracy becomes a
> >consideration.
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> John S has Spiced the totem-pole opto thing. With 100K to the AC line,
> it outputs a square wave that lags the sine wave zero crossings by
> about 400 us. Adding a simple RC phase lead thing on the input side
> can nail the zero crossings.
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if the signal goes to a micro, accurately detecting zero doesn't seem
so important, as long as the delay is repeatable it is easily
compensated
in software
the totem-pole is cute, but I think I'd wire the outputs as open
collector OR, that way everything is symmetric with regards to the
input
and using rising or falling edge can give you a leading or lagging
trigger
-Lasse
-Lasse