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mitutoyo 6" caliper with bad curcuit board
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grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 12:27:22 AM12/14/16
to
Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
jurb...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 1:57:22 AM12/14/16
to
Unfortunately thing like that are like toasters. One IC, surface mount at least, maybe even using the board as a substrate with a glop of epoxy over it. If you can't get the board it is over.
If it has the markings to read it as a regular old time caliper you can use it like that. Or you can use it as a transfer device. Also, if it has the 30 degree cut in the depth gauge it also makes a good tool to measure the diameter of a hole.
What almost amazes me is that these things can tell the position even with the battery out. Mine has a zero button but that is almost not necessary. I cranked it out to like 3" and took the battery out and when I put it back in it remembered where it was. Is this by memory or some sort of measurement technique of which I am not aware ? They talk of capacitance but there is no way that could be accurate at 6".
Mine is an elcheapo, but it does allow for measurement without the battery, and I think most do. And they are cheap so you can just buy another one. I hate to say that but when something is unfixable it is unfixable. You can either get the part or not. You can hound the company, and they might even agree to "fix" it for you but what will happen is they will replace the unit. I work for factory service (not there) and when something cannot be fixed we just offer a replacement at a discounted cost.
I wish we had more control over what the actual manufacturers do but we only bought half the company, what's more all the stuff is made by Apex, this company is just a US front. No more detail on that.
You might find a used one online with bent jaws or something and be able to use the board from that. But there is no ordering "IC 12", replacing it and having it work again.
Nother thing to consider is what these things cost. Mitutoyo is a really good company and I have some of their micrometers and other things, but the fact is they are selling their name if you cannot get parts. So for, I think $16, Harbor Freight or one of them has one that is so similar in performance you'll never notice any difference.
Or just read a real caliper that has the scale on the side that gives you thousandths and forget about this digital shit and you will never have this problem again.
On this page the first picture shows a caliper that can read down to the thousandths :
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/step2/Course-reading-1/
Forget the text. The top of the picture shows a different scale which is made specifically to reveal the next decimal place. Whichever line lines up with a line on the main scale indicates the next decimal place. They achieve that by using nine lines in the exact space of ten. It does not matter which line lines up with the main scale, just count it up and it is the next decimal place.
I know this is hard to understand for modern people, but give it a try. The battery died in my digital caliper about two years ago and I never bothered to replace it. Plus I got better calipers laying around anyway. They just aren't digital and you have to really look at them to read them, it is not all done for you. I also have a pretty full set of micrometers, none digital.
These conveniences are nice but make us lazy.
If it has the markings to read it as a regular old time caliper you can use it like that. Or you can use it as a transfer device. Also, if it has the 30 degree cut in the depth gauge it also makes a good tool to measure the diameter of a hole.
What almost amazes me is that these things can tell the position even with the battery out. Mine has a zero button but that is almost not necessary. I cranked it out to like 3" and took the battery out and when I put it back in it remembered where it was. Is this by memory or some sort of measurement technique of which I am not aware ? They talk of capacitance but there is no way that could be accurate at 6".
Mine is an elcheapo, but it does allow for measurement without the battery, and I think most do. And they are cheap so you can just buy another one. I hate to say that but when something is unfixable it is unfixable. You can either get the part or not. You can hound the company, and they might even agree to "fix" it for you but what will happen is they will replace the unit. I work for factory service (not there) and when something cannot be fixed we just offer a replacement at a discounted cost.
I wish we had more control over what the actual manufacturers do but we only bought half the company, what's more all the stuff is made by Apex, this company is just a US front. No more detail on that.
You might find a used one online with bent jaws or something and be able to use the board from that. But there is no ordering "IC 12", replacing it and having it work again.
Nother thing to consider is what these things cost. Mitutoyo is a really good company and I have some of their micrometers and other things, but the fact is they are selling their name if you cannot get parts. So for, I think $16, Harbor Freight or one of them has one that is so similar in performance you'll never notice any difference.
Or just read a real caliper that has the scale on the side that gives you thousandths and forget about this digital shit and you will never have this problem again.
On this page the first picture shows a caliper that can read down to the thousandths :
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/step2/Course-reading-1/
Forget the text. The top of the picture shows a different scale which is made specifically to reveal the next decimal place. Whichever line lines up with a line on the main scale indicates the next decimal place. They achieve that by using nine lines in the exact space of ten. It does not matter which line lines up with the main scale, just count it up and it is the next decimal place.
I know this is hard to understand for modern people, but give it a try. The battery died in my digital caliper about two years ago and I never bothered to replace it. Plus I got better calipers laying around anyway. They just aren't digital and you have to really look at them to read them, it is not all done for you. I also have a pretty full set of micrometers, none digital.
These conveniences are nice but make us lazy.
nub12
Dec 14, 2016, 3:23:42 AM12/14/16
to
On 14-Dec-16 1:27 PM, grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
> Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
>
See if you can get it apart and give it a clean.
> Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
>
If it has rubber carbon button and remove & clean up under the buttons.
If the carbon has worn off some conductive paint might fix it.
I found on one pair of calipers the air was not able to get back under
the button after it was pressed causing it to stick down. A clean up and
a slot cut in the rubber fixed it.
Jasen Betts
Dec 14, 2016, 4:31:03 AM12/14/16
to
one like this?
https://nz.element14.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&CMP=KNC-GNZ-GEN-DSA-e14&langId=64&storeId=10189&krypto=znplrV6MUWkqja1mn1vBhlqa6RfzXOzMlb1ezU69xT4fR5WC1ODS3f9Ds1D8Vf157NGn8D22Ts2kPy9C8pD0xMXuNkRUmGseOFg%2BBmKbjvTkl4IHYh7n4i15KAmUH7UMGCDBCM8dft7TZU7OPv%2BSK1NjJIWADCD7qgiWukDXwteRRA9sZze3TMN%2BoWQygF%2BSovG5e5s%2F3xqn90gu2x%2Fhf9RbdWCfh36zBcoK5zc81G0qs37EhLNxrh5hFDT3TnFu98%2BmClJcF7V6lK0vTUApxjdUHrjT918SKV9akU9yfZlD%2BgB7sC4CIK89tsbKoIge&ddkey=http%3Aen-NZ%2FElement14_New_Zealand%2Fmitutoyo%2F500-172-20%2Fdigital-caliper-8-200mm%2Fdp%2F7155633
Several hundered dollars. for that price I'd expect a lifetime
guarantee, contact the vendor, or the maker.
OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel
electronic caliper on aliexpress, and $5 for a carbon fibre plastic
0.1mm precision electronic caliper.
--
This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software
Cursitor Doom
Dec 14, 2016, 6:28:09 AM12/14/16
to
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:
>
> OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel
> electronic caliper on aliexpress, and $5 for a carbon fibre plastic
> 0.1mm precision electronic caliper.
All very well until they drift out of calibration and you have to throw
>
> OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel
> electronic caliper on aliexpress, and $5 for a carbon fibre plastic
> 0.1mm precision electronic caliper.
away a work-in-progress-piece with a couple of thousand dollars worth of
machining having gone into it. I'll stick with my flawless and totally
reliable Mitutoyo dial calipers, thanks very much!
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 8:31:48 AM12/14/16
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Using the conductive paint on the carbon buttons sounds like a great idea. I will try it. Thank you
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 8:33:40 AM12/14/16
to
Thank you for taking the time with some very good tips on what choices can be made.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 8:38:39 AM12/14/16
to
I even tried removing a coroded resistor from the board just to lean the board surface underneath it as it looked suspicious but that didnt work, same problem aftr it wss resoldered.
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 14, 2016, 10:50:07 AM12/14/16
to
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 21:27:17 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
Mitutoyo calipers are worth fixing. I don't know what's wrong, but
>Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
from your description, it kinda sounds like low battery voltage. This
is a common problem that I've seen on my cheap throw-away calipers.
The alkaline batteries (LR44) drop in voltage to the point where the
electronics doesn't work. This is because the calipers never really
turn off, draw current even when the display is off, and quickly
discharge the alkaline batteries. The silver oxide batteries (SR44
and 357) are much better. The batteries still discharge when off, but
the much "flatter" discharge curve of the silver oxide battery means
that it will last longer. However, it to will eventually discharge.
On my calipers, alkaline lasts about 3-6 months and silver oxide about
9 to 12 months.
<http://www.truetex.com/buttons.htm>
<http://davehylands.com/Machinist/Caliper-Batteries/>
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jim Thompson
Dec 14, 2016, 11:01:47 AM12/14/16
to
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 07:50:06 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:
>On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 21:27:17 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
>
>Mitutoyo calipers are worth fixing. I don't know what's wrong, but
>from your description, it kinda sounds like low battery voltage. This
>is a common problem that I've seen on my cheap throw-away calipers.
>The alkaline batteries (LR44) drop in voltage to the point where the
>electronics doesn't work. This is because the calipers never really
>turn off, draw current even when the display is off, and quickly
>discharge the alkaline batteries.
Exactly. I remove the battery between uses... often months between
uses.
>The silver oxide batteries (SR44
>and 357) are much better. The batteries still discharge when off, but
>the much "flatter" discharge curve of the silver oxide battery means
>that it will last longer. However, it to will eventually discharge.
>On my calipers, alkaline lasts about 3-6 months and silver oxide about
>9 to 12 months.
>
><http://www.truetex.com/buttons.htm>
><http://davehylands.com/Machinist/Caliper-Batteries/>
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| STV, Queen Creek, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
wrote:
>On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 21:27:17 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
>
>Mitutoyo calipers are worth fixing. I don't know what's wrong, but
>from your description, it kinda sounds like low battery voltage. This
>is a common problem that I've seen on my cheap throw-away calipers.
>The alkaline batteries (LR44) drop in voltage to the point where the
>electronics doesn't work. This is because the calipers never really
>turn off, draw current even when the display is off, and quickly
>discharge the alkaline batteries.
uses.
>The silver oxide batteries (SR44
>and 357) are much better. The batteries still discharge when off, but
>the much "flatter" discharge curve of the silver oxide battery means
>that it will last longer. However, it to will eventually discharge.
>On my calipers, alkaline lasts about 3-6 months and silver oxide about
>9 to 12 months.
>
><http://www.truetex.com/buttons.htm>
><http://davehylands.com/Machinist/Caliper-Batteries/>
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| STV, Queen Creek, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
whit3rd
Dec 14, 2016, 2:23:15 PM12/14/16
to
On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 3:28:09 AM UTC-8, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:
> >
> > OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel
> > electronic caliper on aliexpress...
> On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote:
> >
> > OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel
> All very well until they drift out of calibration and you have to throw
The inexpensive ones (HF at under $10) have some annoying characteristics,
but I've never seen 'drift'. If you're using them regularly, just keep putting in
fresh batteries. If you let 'em sit on the shelf for a month, yank the battery first.
And if you don't have a mechanical dial caliper, get one for the out-of-batteries times.
Dave Platt
Dec 14, 2016, 3:08:14 PM12/14/16
to
In article <37q25c18in1dojk25...@4ax.com>,
would kill an alkaline in about 3 months, and a silver-oxide in 6-9
months. I used it infrequently enough that I found myself expecting
it to be "dead" when I needed it, and started taking the battery out
when I put it away on the shelf.
I picked up a used Mitutoyo via an eBay auction. I don't know how
long it will run on a single battery of either type - it's been more
than a year and the first battery I put in is still quite fine.
Mitutoyo's engineers did a fine job of the "low standby current"
design problem. The engineers behind the Harbor Freight
cheapies... not so good a job.
Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>Mitutoyo calipers are worth fixing. I don't know what's wrong, but
>from your description, it kinda sounds like low battery voltage. This
>is a common problem that I've seen on my cheap throw-away calipers.
>The alkaline batteries (LR44) drop in voltage to the point where the
>electronics doesn't work. This is because the calipers never really
>turn off, draw current even when the display is off, and quickly
>discharge the alkaline batteries. The silver oxide batteries (SR44
>and 357) are much better. The batteries still discharge when off, but
>the much "flatter" discharge curve of the silver oxide battery means
>that it will last longer. However, it to will eventually discharge.
>On my calipers, alkaline lasts about 3-6 months and silver oxide about
>9 to 12 months.
I bought one of the inexpensive ($20 or so) Harbor Freight models. It
>Mitutoyo calipers are worth fixing. I don't know what's wrong, but
>from your description, it kinda sounds like low battery voltage. This
>is a common problem that I've seen on my cheap throw-away calipers.
>The alkaline batteries (LR44) drop in voltage to the point where the
>electronics doesn't work. This is because the calipers never really
>turn off, draw current even when the display is off, and quickly
>discharge the alkaline batteries. The silver oxide batteries (SR44
>and 357) are much better. The batteries still discharge when off, but
>the much "flatter" discharge curve of the silver oxide battery means
>that it will last longer. However, it to will eventually discharge.
>On my calipers, alkaline lasts about 3-6 months and silver oxide about
>9 to 12 months.
would kill an alkaline in about 3 months, and a silver-oxide in 6-9
months. I used it infrequently enough that I found myself expecting
it to be "dead" when I needed it, and started taking the battery out
when I put it away on the shelf.
I picked up a used Mitutoyo via an eBay auction. I don't know how
long it will run on a single battery of either type - it's been more
than a year and the first battery I put in is still quite fine.
Mitutoyo's engineers did a fine job of the "low standby current"
design problem. The engineers behind the Harbor Freight
cheapies... not so good a job.
Lasse Langwadt Christensen
Dec 14, 2016, 4:01:16 PM12/14/16
to
George Herold
Dec 14, 2016, 6:58:31 PM12/14/16
to
(bought used, dial now zero's at bit past 180 degrees.)
I like the lack of battery.
George H.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 7:45:13 PM12/14/16
to
Thank you for your interest in this problem. The battery however is full voltage and new. I could remove some more items from the board as they look corroded underneath?Other than that not sure what else to try. I did also coat the carbon tipped buttons with curcuit writer ink to insure better contact.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 14, 2016, 7:52:46 PM12/14/16
to
George, your 180 degree problem happened to me, so I removed the cover lense and carfully pulled the indicator needle off with some needle nose pliers and carefullypushed it back on in the correct position. Its sounds barbaric but it fixed it. Some dirt got between the rack and pinion gears and it was a fast fix.
krw
Dec 14, 2016, 9:45:46 PM12/14/16
to
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 11:23:11 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whi...@gmail.com>
wrote:
+1
I just gave up on the electronic calipers and went to dial calipers,
both at home and at work (metric and SAE). Electronic calipers just
aren't worth the hassle.
wrote:
I just gave up on the electronic calipers and went to dial calipers,
both at home and at work (metric and SAE). Electronic calipers just
aren't worth the hassle.
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 16, 2016, 9:42:27 PM12/16/16
to
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 16:52:42 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>George, your 180 degree problem happened to me, so I removed the cover lense and carfully pulled the indicator needle off with some needle nose pliers and carefullypushed it back on in the correct position. Its sounds barbaric but it fixed it. Some dirt got between the rack and pinion gears and it was a fast fix.
When you take it apart, and loose a few screws and gears, here's a
>George, your 180 degree problem happened to me, so I removed the cover lense and carfully pulled the indicator needle off with some needle nose pliers and carefullypushed it back on in the correct position. Its sounds barbaric but it fixed it. Some dirt got between the rack and pinion gears and it was a fast fix.
source for replacement Mitutoyo parts:
<http://www.longislandindicator.com/p72.html#Mitutoyo>
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 16, 2016, 10:07:26 PM12/16/16
to
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 16:45:09 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>Thank you for your interest in this problem. The battery however is full voltage and new. I could remove some more items from the board as they look corroded underneath?Other than that not sure what else to try. I did also coat the carbon tipped buttons with curcuit writer ink to insure better contact.
If they look corroded, they probably are corroded. That implies that
>Thank you for your interest in this problem. The battery however is full voltage and new. I could remove some more items from the board as they look corroded underneath?Other than that not sure what else to try. I did also coat the carbon tipped buttons with curcuit writer ink to insure better contact.
some copper has disappeared, breaking a connection. You may need to
reinforce the connection with a piece of fine wire in order to repair
it.
You didn't bother to specify the exact Mitutoyo model number, so I
can't offer any replacement PCB's. However, they probably have the
same problem as yours. Mitutoyo uses "chip on board" type assembly.
Here's one example:
<http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f38/51897d1336582631-mitutoyo-500-451-solar-needs-battery-dsc_0059.jpg>
The two black epoxy blobs have IC's underneath, with wire bonds
between the chip and the PCB. Although the chips is protected
somewhat by a jelly like smear of junction coating, you can still
break a wire bond by just touching the epoxy. An alternative failure
mode is having water or corrosive fluids creep under the PCB to epoxy
interface by capillary action, and eat the wire bonds. My guess(tm)
is that one of these may have been what happened to yours.
Display repair:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxGtfGIL6EA> 5:32
Mitutoyo vs cheap junk Chinese calipers comparison:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpGUOTVBZ3c> 16:03
Mitutoyo counterfeit:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk> 10:15
See 3:10 for battery current measurments. The counterfeit draws 4
times the current as the real Mitutoyo. See 8:17 for video of the
PCB.
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 16, 2016, 10:22:10 PM12/16/16
to
On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 19:07:16 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
wrote:
>Display repair:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxGtfGIL6EA> 5:32
>
>Mitutoyo vs cheap junk Chinese calipers comparison:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpGUOTVBZ3c> 16:03
>
>Mitutoyo counterfeit:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk> 10:15
>See 3:10 for battery current measurments. The counterfeit draws 4
>times the current as the real Mitutoyo. See 8:17 for video of the
>PCB.
More:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvszAb0Y0Ec>
See 10:26 for some really bad machining on a cheap digital caliper.
See links under "Show More" for some more problems (temperature
stability and battery consumption).
wrote:
>Display repair:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxGtfGIL6EA> 5:32
>
>Mitutoyo vs cheap junk Chinese calipers comparison:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpGUOTVBZ3c> 16:03
>
>Mitutoyo counterfeit:
><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk> 10:15
>See 3:10 for battery current measurments. The counterfeit draws 4
>times the current as the real Mitutoyo. See 8:17 for video of the
>PCB.
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvszAb0Y0Ec>
See 10:26 for some really bad machining on a cheap digital caliper.
See links under "Show More" for some more problems (temperature
stability and battery consumption).
Cursitor Doom
Dec 17, 2016, 8:34:51 AM12/17/16
to
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 15:58:22 -0800, George Herold wrote:
> Grin, my Mitutoyo dial calp's have slipped a few gears in their
> lifetime.
> (bought used, dial now zero's at bit past 180 degrees.)
> I like the lack of battery.
Inevitably they get dirt in there. The teeth on the main rack are very
> Grin, my Mitutoyo dial calp's have slipped a few gears in their
> lifetime.
> (bought used, dial now zero's at bit past 180 degrees.)
> I like the lack of battery.
fine, so it doesn't take much dirt to knock them out of mesh with the
pinion in operation so you have to clean and re-zero them from time to
time depending on how badly you abuse them. Ain't no biggie, though.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 19, 2016, 2:58:31 AM12/19/16
to
Caliper model is 500-196
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 19, 2016, 3:17:41 AM12/19/16
to
On Sun, 18 Dec 2016 23:58:26 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>Caliper model is 500-196
<http://www.longislandindicator.com/p189.html>
Scroll down to where the 500-196 section starts.
Early models have few parts available.
The 500-196-20 model has a "reader unit" available but no price.
What's the exact model number?
Plenty available on eBay for little money:
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Mitutoyo+500-196>
However, I suspect they're all counterfeit.
I was hoping to find the PCB from a wrecked caliper, but nothing
found. I'll continue digging tomorrow.
>Caliper model is 500-196
<http://www.longislandindicator.com/p189.html>
Scroll down to where the 500-196 section starts.
Early models have few parts available.
The 500-196-20 model has a "reader unit" available but no price.
What's the exact model number?
Plenty available on eBay for little money:
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Mitutoyo+500-196>
However, I suspect they're all counterfeit.
I was hoping to find the PCB from a wrecked caliper, but nothing
found. I'll continue digging tomorrow.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 19, 2016, 1:09:17 PM12/19/16
to
Jeff, Thank you for what you have found so far. The mitutoyo model number 500-196, and that is the full number the 500-196-20 or 30 are the newer ones. I have heard about long island but ii am from Canada and they dont ship here. You have been my best source of any kind for this curcuit board hang up to date. I do appreciate any other light you cn shine on it. Thank you, gordon
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 19, 2016, 5:58:43 PM12/19/16
to
On Mon, 19 Dec 2016 10:09:04 -0800 (PST), grbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>The mitutoyo model number 500-196, and that is the full number
>the 500-196-20 or 30 are the newer ones.
There are two series of calipers that lack the -20 or -30 suffice as
>The mitutoyo model number 500-196, and that is the full number
>the 500-196-20 or 30 are the newer ones.
differentiated by the serial number. Is you your serial number above
or below 0214920 ???
Exploded views of the 500 series calipers:
<http://www.mitutoyo.com.br/novosite/lista_pecas/PDF/500.pdf>
Current catalog for calipers:
<http://www.motionusa.com.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/mitutoyo/D-Section_US-1002.pdf>
>I have heard about long island but ii am from Canada and they
>dont ship here.
>You have been my best source of any kind for this curcuit board
>hang up to date. I do appreciate any other light you cn shine
>on it. Thank you, gordon
repairs. That's probably because the cost of the parts plus labor to
repair your $150 calipers is more than the cost of a new pair. I was
hoping to find one that could be used for parts, but that's not
happening.
07GZA238 is the part number for Mitutoyo 500-196 with serial number
over 0214920. I could not find a number for lower serial numbers. I
suggest you inspect your "reading unit" for a part number to verify
that this is the correct unit:
Googling:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=mitutoyo+09GZA238>
I find several vendors that carry the "reading unit" at about $75.
<https://www.motionusa.com/eCommerceProductDetail?productId=162221&productCategoryId=900120>
<http://www.newark.com/mitutoyo/09gza238/reading-unit-assy/dp/05P0163>
Whether it's worth $75 to fix yours is dubious and risky. You can get
a new and up to date Mitutoyo caliper for $150, or a pile of battery
killing cheap calipers for about $15.
"How to spot a fake Mitutoyo 500-196-20 caliper"
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJed9Rsl-8E>
More of the same:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpGUOTVBZ3c>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xs5mODh-P4>
Personally, I prefer a (cheap) ditital micrometer for <1"
measurements:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-micrometer-68305.html>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvszAb0Y0Ec>
Good luck.
legg
Dec 20, 2016, 2:19:03 AM12/20/16
to
>Ii have a mitutoyo electronic caliper that is now obsolete and the curcuit board seems to be shorted out. Anyone have experience with how to trouble shoot this problem. It used to power up but only read in metric now it just stopped working all together.. the rest of the caliper is perfect condition. Cant just discard it?
There are a few batteries with differing thicknesses used in these
types of calipers. If you use the thickest kind, it can distort the
battery holder terminals and board.
RL
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 20, 2016, 6:43:12 PM12/20/16
to
The battery, hmmmm didnt check the thickness compared to the old one. Will check it out, thank you.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 20, 2016, 6:50:23 PM12/20/16
to
Jeff, the serial number sticker on the back was removed by my son and it dissapeared. All I have to even know the model is the original box. Will have to take it apart to try and find the reading unit part number for sure id Fixing this board is proving to be more difficult every day. I have a hard time learning that this is becoming unfixable. I can usually repair most things but this digital caliper board has got the best of me so far. Thank you for the web sites to learn more.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 21, 2016, 11:36:09 AM12/21/16
to
Checkd battery thickness, not any difference there.
rickman
Dec 21, 2016, 12:48:41 PM12/21/16
to
On 12/14/2016 1:57 AM, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> Unfortunately thing like that are like toasters. One IC, surface mount at least, maybe even using the board as a substrate with a glop of epoxy over it. If you can't get the board it is over.
>
> If it has the markings to read it as a regular old time caliper you can use it like that. Or you can use it as a transfer device. Also, if it has the 30 degree cut in the depth gauge it also makes a good tool to measure the diameter of a hole.
>
> What almost amazes me is that these things can tell the position even with the battery out. Mine has a zero button but that is almost not necessary. I cranked it out to like 3" and took the battery out and when I put it back in it remembered where it was. Is this by memory or some sort of measurement technique of which I am not aware ? They talk of capacitance but there is no way that could be accurate at 6".
>
> Mine is an elcheapo, but it does allow for measurement without the battery, and I think most do. And they are cheap so you can just buy another one. I hate to say that but when something is unfixable it is unfixable. You can either get the part or not. You can hound the company, and they might even agree to "fix" it for you but what will happen is they will replace the unit. I work for factory service (not there) and when something cannot be fixed we just offer a replacement at a discounted cost.
>
> I wish we had more control over what the actual manufacturers do but we only bought half the company, what's more all the stuff is made by Apex, this company is just a US front. No more detail on that.
>
> You might find a used one online with bent jaws or something and be able to use the board from that. But there is no ordering "IC 12", replacing it and having it work again.
>
> Nother thing to consider is what these things cost. Mitutoyo is a really good company and I have some of their micrometers and other things, but the fact is they are selling their name if you cannot get parts. So for, I think $16, Harbor Freight or one of them has one that is so similar in performance you'll never notice any difference.
>
> Or just read a real caliper that has the scale on the side that gives you thousandths and forget about this digital shit and you will never have this problem again.
>
> On this page the first picture shows a caliper that can read down to the thousandths :
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/step2/Course-reading-1/
>
> Forget the text. The top of the picture shows a different scale which is made specifically to reveal the next decimal place. Whichever line lines up with a line on the main scale indicates the next decimal place. They achieve that by using nine lines in the exact space of ten. It does not matter which line lines up with the main scale, just count it up and it is the next decimal place.
>
> I know this is hard to understand for modern people, but give it a try. The battery died in my digital caliper about two years ago and I never bothered to replace it. Plus I got better calipers laying around anyway. They just aren't digital and you have to really look at them to read them, it is not all done for you. I also have a pretty full set of micrometers, none digital.
>
> These conveniences are nice but make us lazy.
What is wrong with dial calipers? I have a digital caliper, but I have
to take the battery out each time I'm done with it or it dies. I used
to think the case was pressing the on button, but eventually I realize
the durn thing just never turns off! So I use my dial caliper which got
dropped once and reads 1 or 2 thou when closed. Not a problem for most
of my work.
The dial caliper came with a micrometer which I used the other day to
measure the thickness of some Chinese 18 gauge wire which is really more
like 20 gauge. I didn't contact the ebay seller early enough so they
won't refund the money. So I'm going to buy more of the same and then
give him shit. Do they *really* have to cut corners so much that they
aren't even selling what they claim?
--
Rick C
> Unfortunately thing like that are like toasters. One IC, surface mount at least, maybe even using the board as a substrate with a glop of epoxy over it. If you can't get the board it is over.
>
> If it has the markings to read it as a regular old time caliper you can use it like that. Or you can use it as a transfer device. Also, if it has the 30 degree cut in the depth gauge it also makes a good tool to measure the diameter of a hole.
>
> What almost amazes me is that these things can tell the position even with the battery out. Mine has a zero button but that is almost not necessary. I cranked it out to like 3" and took the battery out and when I put it back in it remembered where it was. Is this by memory or some sort of measurement technique of which I am not aware ? They talk of capacitance but there is no way that could be accurate at 6".
>
> Mine is an elcheapo, but it does allow for measurement without the battery, and I think most do. And they are cheap so you can just buy another one. I hate to say that but when something is unfixable it is unfixable. You can either get the part or not. You can hound the company, and they might even agree to "fix" it for you but what will happen is they will replace the unit. I work for factory service (not there) and when something cannot be fixed we just offer a replacement at a discounted cost.
>
> I wish we had more control over what the actual manufacturers do but we only bought half the company, what's more all the stuff is made by Apex, this company is just a US front. No more detail on that.
>
> You might find a used one online with bent jaws or something and be able to use the board from that. But there is no ordering "IC 12", replacing it and having it work again.
>
> Nother thing to consider is what these things cost. Mitutoyo is a really good company and I have some of their micrometers and other things, but the fact is they are selling their name if you cannot get parts. So for, I think $16, Harbor Freight or one of them has one that is so similar in performance you'll never notice any difference.
>
> Or just read a real caliper that has the scale on the side that gives you thousandths and forget about this digital shit and you will never have this problem again.
>
> On this page the first picture shows a caliper that can read down to the thousandths :
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/step2/Course-reading-1/
>
> Forget the text. The top of the picture shows a different scale which is made specifically to reveal the next decimal place. Whichever line lines up with a line on the main scale indicates the next decimal place. They achieve that by using nine lines in the exact space of ten. It does not matter which line lines up with the main scale, just count it up and it is the next decimal place.
>
> I know this is hard to understand for modern people, but give it a try. The battery died in my digital caliper about two years ago and I never bothered to replace it. Plus I got better calipers laying around anyway. They just aren't digital and you have to really look at them to read them, it is not all done for you. I also have a pretty full set of micrometers, none digital.
>
> These conveniences are nice but make us lazy.
What is wrong with dial calipers? I have a digital caliper, but I have
to take the battery out each time I'm done with it or it dies. I used
to think the case was pressing the on button, but eventually I realize
the durn thing just never turns off! So I use my dial caliper which got
dropped once and reads 1 or 2 thou when closed. Not a problem for most
of my work.
The dial caliper came with a micrometer which I used the other day to
measure the thickness of some Chinese 18 gauge wire which is really more
like 20 gauge. I didn't contact the ebay seller early enough so they
won't refund the money. So I'm going to buy more of the same and then
give him shit. Do they *really* have to cut corners so much that they
aren't even selling what they claim?
--
Rick C
John S
Dec 21, 2016, 6:04:26 PM12/21/16
to
On 12/21/2016 11:48 AM, rickman wrote:
> What is wrong with dial calipers?
Absolutely nothing. He was looking for advice for the problem he has at
> What is wrong with dial calipers?
hand.
Chris Jones
Dec 22, 2016, 7:26:34 AM12/22/16
to
can leave the battery in it and it lasts for years. They other type is
like yours, it keeps the electronics on to keep track of the position
even when it is "turned off" which just blanks the screen, and it
flattens the battery unless the battery is removed. Obviously I prefer
the first type. I think the second type is trying to act like the
Mitutoyo ones which keep track of the position even with the power off.
The Mitutoyo ones don't flatten the battery - they have an absolute
encoder so they don't need any electronics to keep track of the position
when the power is off. (They patented how it works, you can read how it
works if you figure out which patent it is.)
> I used
> to think the case was pressing the on button, but eventually I realize
> the durn thing just never turns off! So I use my dial caliper which got
> dropped once and reads 1 or 2 thou when closed. Not a problem for most
> of my work.
>
> The dial caliper came with a micrometer which I used the other day to
> measure the thickness of some Chinese 18 gauge wire which is really more
> like 20 gauge. I didn't contact the ebay seller early enough so they
> won't refund the money. So I'm going to buy more of the same and then
> give him shit. Do they *really* have to cut corners so much that they
> aren't even selling what they claim?
even made of copper - I was disappointed to buy some which is copper
clad aluminium.
krw
Dec 22, 2016, 7:50:31 AM12/22/16
to
them before use (I always check zero, anyway). The problem, like many
electronic gadgets, is that the power button is "soft". I don't care
if the device is line powered but it matters if it's only a button
cell. I just use a dial caliper (have both imperial and metric) and
dispense with all the dead battery nonsense.
>
>> I used
>> to think the case was pressing the on button, but eventually I realize
>> the durn thing just never turns off! So I use my dial caliper which got
>> dropped once and reads 1 or 2 thou when closed. Not a problem for most
>> of my work.
>>
>> The dial caliper came with a micrometer which I used the other day to
>> measure the thickness of some Chinese 18 gauge wire which is really more
>> like 20 gauge. I didn't contact the ebay seller early enough so they
>> won't refund the money. So I'm going to buy more of the same and then
>> give him shit. Do they *really* have to cut corners so much that they
>> aren't even selling what they claim?
>Cut the end off with flush cutters or shears and check whether it is
>even made of copper - I was disappointed to buy some which is copper
>clad aluminium.
Or don't buy anything but "toys" on eBay. I don't buy electrical
>> I used
>> to think the case was pressing the on button, but eventually I realize
>> the durn thing just never turns off! So I use my dial caliper which got
>> dropped once and reads 1 or 2 thou when closed. Not a problem for most
>> of my work.
>>
>> The dial caliper came with a micrometer which I used the other day to
>> measure the thickness of some Chinese 18 gauge wire which is really more
>> like 20 gauge. I didn't contact the ebay seller early enough so they
>> won't refund the money. So I'm going to buy more of the same and then
>> give him shit. Do they *really* have to cut corners so much that they
>> aren't even selling what they claim?
>Cut the end off with flush cutters or shears and check whether it is
>even made of copper - I was disappointed to buy some which is copper
>clad aluminium.
stuff from HF, either.
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 22, 2016, 10:10:45 PM12/22/16
to
What has happened to this world, why has electronics and technology in general gotten so dam difficult to repair? The average consumer electronics or even general goods have become harder to repair as time goes by. For the average person to even try to understand basic CNC manufacturing or trying to repair a curcuit board which gives very few clues as to where and what is needed to make it work again are just not available or even understandable anymore. The demand from the consumer has been so great for bigger better faster and cheaper has made too many goods obselete well before they are worn. Along with this obsolescence come tiny unfixable puzzle pieces that must be thrown out and not even considered for repair. It scares me to buy anything new. New technology has its benifits but repair is not one one of them
Jeff Liebermann
Dec 23, 2016, 6:38:23 PM12/23/16
to
Putting on my marketeering hat... welcome to the brave new world of
modern consumer electronics. Everything you mention is quite real and
will become worse. You ask for reasons (not in any particular order):
1. Miniaturization has made devices more powerful, compact,
integrated, and smaller, which require specialized tools to repair.
The repair tools that I use today, did not exist 25 year ago.
2. Progress today is so quick and product lifetime so short, that it
is not unusual for 3 to 4 replacement products to be in the
development pipeline at the same time. If a problem is found with the
current product, you have only to wait one product cycle time (about 6
months) for the next product to hit the market and obsolete the
current product. With such a system, there's little or no incentive
for manufacturers to fix any problems with the current product.
3. The GUM (great unwashed masses) will pay for features and
functions, but expect bug fixes to be free. Since there's no revenue
in fixing bugs, manufacturers are reluctant to fix any problems unless
there's a product liability, safety, or class action issue involved.
4. Features and functions get added faster than bugs get fixed. The
result is a giant bloated pile of bugs. Eventually, the bloat reaches
some critical size, where no amount of added features or functions
will increase reliability or sales. At this time, the manufacturer
starts the learning curve over from scratch by embarrassing a new
technology, and we are blessed with a fresh class of problems to fix.
5. Standards and regulatory compliance have tended to make
competitive products quite similar. The only way to compete is on the
basis of price or proprietary enhancements. Competing on the basis of
price is a good way to kill the company as a race to the bottom. The
proprietary enhancements are where most of the repair problems lurk.
6. Many companies are structured for only one purpose... to make the
company sellable as a merger or acquisition. That means the company
needs to look good on the prospectus. Products with useful lives
measured in months are acceptable if the buyer doesn't notice the
problem. It's not unusually for the a buyer to kill a few products,
not because they are insufficiently profitable, but simply because
they don't work or are so unreliable that they are furiously failing.
7. Using simulation software, it is now possible to predict the
lifetime of specific electronic components operating under known
conditions. For example, the lifetime of electrolyics can be
estimated:
<http://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/tech-center/life-calculators.aspx>
The current thinking is that if a component lasts longer than the
warranty period, it is over designed. Over design costs money, so the
engineer is told to use a LESS reliable component in it's place, with
the eventual goal to make have all the components fail at the same
time, just after the warranty expires. When I try to fix the usual
bulging electrolytic capacitors in such a product, I don't find one or
two that can economically be replaced, but dozens, which cost too much
repair time to be economical.
8. Component manufacturers cannot economically stock and produce
repair parts forever. Eventually, most devices are no longer used in
new designs, making them end-of-life, legacy, or obsolete components.
Finding these parts for repairing old units can be difficult,
expensive, or both. I find myself buying from component cannibals on
eBay far too often.
9. The useful life of many products are intentionally limited by
corporate policy. For example, Apple has declared that anything older
than 5 years is a "vintage" product. Anything over 7 years is
"obsolete".
<https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201624>
After 5 years, even Apple service centers cannot obtain parts from
Apple. These service centers are required by Apple to use only new
parts for repairs and therefore cannot scrap old boards or buy from
the eBay component cannibals.
10. Many devices require specialized test fixtures and alignment jigs
in order to do a proper repair. Some of these can be cloned, but in
general, they have to factory calibrated. When a company decides to
no longer "support" a product, all it has to do is scrap the test and
alignment fixtures, and it can't be repaired, even by the factory.
11. Many designs are sufficiently complex, esoteric (weird), and
undocumented, that it requires an expert with long term experience to
perform repairs. When that person retires or dies, the product dies
with them. I've been on mailing lists and forums, where the sum total
of the collective product knowledge was in the mind of one person.
12. The low price of new products versus the cost of repair has made
it more economical to purchase a new product than to repair an old
product. In computahs, todays customers will buy a new machine if the
cost of repair is greater than about 60% of the cost of repair. The
worst case is the local county administration, which fired their
in-house IT and repair department, and will replace a broken machine
if the cost is more than about 20% of the cost of a new machine. The
local recycler often gets 3 year old Dell and HP desktops, with
nothing much wrong. I must admit that this derangement is better for
the country than when they were repairing machines, which tended to
promote perpetual obsolescence. It was not unusual to see Windoze 3.1
machines well into the 21st century.
13. Recycling programs have tended to promote replacement instead of
repair.
<https://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto>
Recycling (tossing) old machines is now considered a good thing, while
repair is perceived as collecting junk.
14. Some manufacturers have intentionally designed products that are
difficult or impossible to repair. Apple didn't win any awards for
filling their MacBooks with tar for securing batteries. Essentially,
it's now a throw away product with a 5.000 year life.
15. With short product lifetimes, most manufacturers cut corners on
documentation. Nobody reads the instructions anyway. I suspect that
without the pile of legal documents, warranty disclaimers, and read me
first documents, the new product boxes would not have any paperwork
included. Conspicuously missing is any repair documentation. Dell,
HP, and Lenovo are some of the few that include disassembly
instructions. However, I still find myself looking on Youtube or
iFixit for model specific disassembly instructions:
<https://www.ifixit.com/Guide>
Oops... gotta run...
grbr...@gmail.com
Dec 24, 2016, 2:57:49 AM12/24/16
to
Thank you Jeff, you have cleared the air on this one for sure. Money gobbling corporations and their ways smell badly. It is very poor business for the public but it must show a profit or it would not keep them open. Technology has many warts.
Message has been deleted
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John Smiht
Nov 28, 2023, 2:11:45 PM11/28/23
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On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 11:48:41 AM UTC-6, rickman wrote:
> On 12/14/2016 1:57 AM, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Unfortunately thing like that are like toasters. One IC, surface mount at least, maybe even using the board as a substrate with a glop of epoxy over it. If you can't get the board it is over.
> >
> > If it has the markings to read it as a regular old time caliper you can use it like that. Or you can use it as a transfer device. Also, if it has the 30 degree cut in the depth gauge it also makes a good tool to measure the diameter of a hole.
> >
> > What almost amazes me is that these things can tell the position even with the battery out. Mine has a zero button but that is almost not necessary. I cranked it out to like 3" and took the battery out and when I put it back in it remembered where it was. Is this by memory or some sort of measurement technique of which I am not aware ? They talk of capacitance but there is no way that could be accurate at 6".
> >
> > Mine is an elcheapo, but it does allow for measurement without the battery, and I think most do. And they are cheap so you can just buy another one. I hate to say that but when something is unfixable it is unfixable. You can either get the part or not. You can hound the company, and they might even agree to "fix" it for you but what will happen is they will replace the unit. I work for factory service (not there) and when something cannot be fixed we just offer a replacement at a discounted cost.
> >
> > I wish we had more control over what the actual manufacturers do but we only bought half the company, what's more all the stuff is made by Apex, this company is just a US front. No more detail on that.
> >
> > You might find a used one online with bent jaws or something and be able to use the board from that. But there is no ordering "IC 12", replacing it and having it work again.
> >
> > Nother thing to consider is what these things cost. Mitutoyo is a really good company and I have some of their micrometers and other things, but the fact is they are selling their name if you cannot get parts. So for, I think $16, Harbor Freight or one of them has one that is so similar in performance you'll never notice any difference.
> >
> > Or just read a real caliper that has the scale on the side that gives you thousandths and forget about this digital shit and you will never have this problem again.
> >
> > On this page the first picture shows a caliper that can read down to the thousandths :
> >
> > http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/step2/Course-reading-1/
> >
> > Forget the text. The top of the picture shows a different scale which is made specifically to reveal the next decimal place. Whichever line lines up with a line on the main scale indicates the next decimal place. They achieve that by using nine lines in the exact space of ten. It does not matter which line lines up with the main scale, just count it up and it is the next decimal place.
> >
> > I know this is hard to understand for modern people, but give it a try. The battery died in my digital caliper about two years ago and I never bothered to replace it. Plus I got better calipers laying around anyway. They just aren't digital and you have to really look at them to read them, it is not all done for you. I also have a pretty full set of micrometers, none digital.
> >
> > These conveniences are nice but make us lazy.
Vernier calipers are great for those who have good eyesight. Even with eyeglasses I have trouble reading the vernier scale.
> On 12/14/2016 1:57 AM, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Unfortunately thing like that are like toasters. One IC, surface mount at least, maybe even using the board as a substrate with a glop of epoxy over it. If you can't get the board it is over.
> >
> > If it has the markings to read it as a regular old time caliper you can use it like that. Or you can use it as a transfer device. Also, if it has the 30 degree cut in the depth gauge it also makes a good tool to measure the diameter of a hole.
> >
> > What almost amazes me is that these things can tell the position even with the battery out. Mine has a zero button but that is almost not necessary. I cranked it out to like 3" and took the battery out and when I put it back in it remembered where it was. Is this by memory or some sort of measurement technique of which I am not aware ? They talk of capacitance but there is no way that could be accurate at 6".
> >
> > Mine is an elcheapo, but it does allow for measurement without the battery, and I think most do. And they are cheap so you can just buy another one. I hate to say that but when something is unfixable it is unfixable. You can either get the part or not. You can hound the company, and they might even agree to "fix" it for you but what will happen is they will replace the unit. I work for factory service (not there) and when something cannot be fixed we just offer a replacement at a discounted cost.
> >
> > I wish we had more control over what the actual manufacturers do but we only bought half the company, what's more all the stuff is made by Apex, this company is just a US front. No more detail on that.
> >
> > You might find a used one online with bent jaws or something and be able to use the board from that. But there is no ordering "IC 12", replacing it and having it work again.
> >
> > Nother thing to consider is what these things cost. Mitutoyo is a really good company and I have some of their micrometers and other things, but the fact is they are selling their name if you cannot get parts. So for, I think $16, Harbor Freight or one of them has one that is so similar in performance you'll never notice any difference.
> >
> > Or just read a real caliper that has the scale on the side that gives you thousandths and forget about this digital shit and you will never have this problem again.
> >
> > On this page the first picture shows a caliper that can read down to the thousandths :
> >
> > http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-read-a-vernier-caliper/step2/Course-reading-1/
> >
> > Forget the text. The top of the picture shows a different scale which is made specifically to reveal the next decimal place. Whichever line lines up with a line on the main scale indicates the next decimal place. They achieve that by using nine lines in the exact space of ten. It does not matter which line lines up with the main scale, just count it up and it is the next decimal place.
> >
> > I know this is hard to understand for modern people, but give it a try. The battery died in my digital caliper about two years ago and I never bothered to replace it. Plus I got better calipers laying around anyway. They just aren't digital and you have to really look at them to read them, it is not all done for you. I also have a pretty full set of micrometers, none digital.
> >
> > These conveniences are nice but make us lazy.
Anthony William Sloman
Nov 29, 2023, 12:11:28 AM11/29/23
to
On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 6:11:45 AM UTC+11, John Smiht wrote:
> On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 11:48:41 AM UTC-6, rickman wrote:
> > On 12/14/2016 1:57 AM, jurb...@gmail.com wrote: \
> On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 11:48:41 AM UTC-6, rickman wrote:
If you had used your eyes a little more carefully, you'd have noticed that you'd posted a response in a 2016 thread that had been revived by a counterfeit banknote spammer. Try to avoid doing this this.
--
Bill Sloman, Sydney
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