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Where can I buy replacement test lead probes?
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Je...@theshop.com
Mar 25, 2014, 11:40:30 PM3/25/14
to
I've been playing around with electronics for around 50 years. In the
old days, test lead probes had tips that screw into the probe insulator
(the part you hold). Those old ones were easy to fix, just unscrew the
tip, solder the wire on and screw it back in.
The test leads sold today are all molded in, and when the wire comes off
(which it will), the whole lead needs to be replaced. That's assinine.
Not to mention very incovenient, because I have to keep a spare set of
leads on hand, or cant use my meter till I buy more leads.
Someone must still sell the replacement (reusable) probes? Does anyone
know where to buy them? I looked on Radio Shack website, and it appears
they dont sell them anymore, just complete sets of leads, which appear
to have the molded probes on the ends.
old days, test lead probes had tips that screw into the probe insulator
(the part you hold). Those old ones were easy to fix, just unscrew the
tip, solder the wire on and screw it back in.
The test leads sold today are all molded in, and when the wire comes off
(which it will), the whole lead needs to be replaced. That's assinine.
Not to mention very incovenient, because I have to keep a spare set of
leads on hand, or cant use my meter till I buy more leads.
Someone must still sell the replacement (reusable) probes? Does anyone
know where to buy them? I looked on Radio Shack website, and it appears
they dont sell them anymore, just complete sets of leads, which appear
to have the molded probes on the ends.
Phil Allison
Mar 26, 2014, 12:51:27 AM3/26/14
to
<Je...@theshop.com>
Multimeter leads start at $2 a pair including postage from HK.
High quality pairs & sets cost few dollars extra.
.... Phil
Cydrome Leader
Mar 26, 2014, 1:11:15 AM3/26/14
to
completely molded leads, although they still look pretty old.
I do have a set of Radio Shack coiled test leads that come apart, but
they're long discontinued and must have been from no later than the early
1990s.
John Fields
Mar 26, 2014, 3:13:21 AM3/26/14
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Jasen Betts
Mar 26, 2014, 3:44:13 AM3/26/14
to
On 2014-03-26, Je...@theshop.com <Je...@theshop.com> wrote:
[meter probes]
> Someone must still sell the replacement (reusable) probes? Does anyone
> know where to buy them? I looked on Radio Shack website, and it appears
> they dont sell them anymore, just complete sets of leads, which appear
> to have the molded probes on the ends.
I got mine from pc-global (Altronics) these have a ring-nut on the tip
that anchors the wire no solderiong required.
--
umop apisdn
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
[meter probes]
> Someone must still sell the replacement (reusable) probes? Does anyone
> know where to buy them? I looked on Radio Shack website, and it appears
> they dont sell them anymore, just complete sets of leads, which appear
> to have the molded probes on the ends.
that anchors the wire no solderiong required.
--
umop apisdn
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
mrob...@att.net
Mar 26, 2014, 7:19:43 AM3/26/14
to
Je...@theshop.com wrote:
> In the old days, test lead probes had tips that screw into the probe
> insulator (the part you hold).
I have an old Heathkit FET DMM that has that style.
> In the old days, test lead probes had tips that screw into the probe
> insulator (the part you hold).
> The test leads sold today are all molded in, and when the wire comes
> off (which it will), the whole lead needs to be replaced.
of molded DMM test leads in 20 years. That set was on a meter that I
used to work on trucks with, so they were more exposed than usual to
sharp edges, hot things, getting doors shut on them, etc. That's an
acceptable attrition rate to me.
> Someone must still sell the replacement (reusable) probes? Does
> anyone know where to buy them?
http://www.keyelco.com/
Pomona still sells test probes in many styles, but I don't know if they
have the one you are after. Their Web site is fairly horrible; you
pretty much have to look at several nearly-identical images to find
what you want. http://www.pomonaelectronics.com
I think some of this is driven by safety regulations; there appears to
be a desire to make it harder to touch high voltages. Witness how most
handheld DMMs for 15 years or more have been coming with the shrouded
banana plugs on the test leads. I don't *know*, but I get the
impression that it started as an EU thing, and the manufacturers just
ship EU-compliant test leads everywhere, to make the logistics easier.
I've seen directions for a multimeter that say "for over X volts, do not
hold leads in hand - turn off power, connect leads, turn on power, take
reading, turn off power, remove leads." There are probably as many as
five people in the world who have followed those directions.
Matt Roberds
Je...@theshop.com
Mar 27, 2014, 2:04:53 PM3/27/14
to
now required by law. However, I also believe it's a sign of the times
too. We live in a disposible society. Rather than fix something, you
just toss it and buy another one. It's just like razors. When I was
young, you'd replace the razor blade. Now you toss the entire razor.
I took the molded test probe, grabbed the tip with a vice grips, and
pulled the tip out. There was no solder on it at all. It appears that
the wire was just wrapped to it and molded into the plastic. In other
words CHEAP JUNK. But this is on a cheap multimeter which I bought for
automotive use, to keep my good meter from getting all gunky. The
problem is that for automotive use, you need to stretch out the leads
much further and since the wire inside the leads is real flimsy, it
didn't take long for it to just pull out of the probe. But I suppose I
may as well get new probes and fix it. Only this time I'm gonna wrap
electrical tape around the wire and probe to prevent straining the
wires.
The fact the wires were never even soldered to the tip shows just how
cheaply made this thing is.
I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
much better for automotive use.
josephkk
Mar 27, 2014, 11:34:32 PM3/27/14
to
On Thu, 27 Mar 2014 13:04:53 -0500, Je...@theshop.com wrote:
>
>The fact the wires were never even soldered to the tip shows just how
>cheaply made this thing is.
>
>I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
>since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
>ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
>own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
>much better for automotive use.
Do not use ordinary household wire. Use MTW minimum instead, much more
>
>The fact the wires were never even soldered to the tip shows just how
>cheaply made this thing is.
>
>I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
>since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
>ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
>own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
>much better for automotive use.
flexible. Using proper instrument led wire would be better yet, even more
flexible.
?-)
mrob...@att.net
Mar 28, 2014, 3:29:09 AM3/28/14
to
Je...@theshop.com wrote:
> We live in a disposible society. Rather than fix something, you just
> toss it and buy another one. It's just like razors. When I was
> young, you'd replace the razor blade. Now you toss the entire razor.
Every place I've shopped recently that sells shaving products (Wal-Mart,
> We live in a disposible society. Rather than fix something, you just
> toss it and buy another one. It's just like razors. When I was
> young, you'd replace the razor blade. Now you toss the entire razor.
Target, CVS, Walgreen's, Hy-Vee) sells a selection of razors with
replaceable blades. Granted, the blades aren't just a piece of steel
anymore - there is some molded plastic around them - but you can buy a
handle and a pack of blades to fit it, just like old times.
If you want you can also buy a pack of disposable razors, where the
blade can't be changed. The main use case I can think of for these is
when somebody is traveling and has forgotten their usual razor at home.
People who don't need to shave very much (genes or age) might be
another.
> It appears that the wire was just wrapped to it and molded into the
> plastic. In other words CHEAP JUNK. But this is on a cheap
> multimeter which I bought for automotive use, to keep my good meter
> from getting all gunky.
> I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up much
> better for automotive use.
a corner. I suspect that wire would end up dragging the meter around.
For me, the very best test lead wire is the highly-stranded rubber-
insulated stuff. I have some of that wire on a DC power supply that I
built in about 1990 and it's still going strong. There is a plastic-
insulated equivalent that is almost as good; Radio Shock (used to?)
have it on small spools.
If I was going to use some other wire for a meter test lead, and I
never wanted to measure current with it, I might look for some TST/TPT/
shaver cord. It's pretty flexible, but only 27 AWG. It's also rated
for at least 120 V AC, in case the meter gets used for something else.
For use around a car, I might look for some cross-linked SXL, GXL, or
TXL wire, in the right gauge and as finely stranded as I could get it.
A lot of the wiring harness already installed on the car is this kind of
wire. This wire is probably only rated to 30 volts or so. It will work
at 120 volts but I don't know how much above that I would trust it.
Matt Roberds
John Fields
Mar 28, 2014, 6:44:13 AM3/28/14
to
>I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
>since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
>ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
>own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
>much better for automotive use.
---
>since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
>ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
>own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
>much better for automotive use.
#14 stranded house wire is stiff enough that it's not a good idea.
If you want to build your own solderless probes, you could start
with this at the probe end:
http://www.newark.com/multicomp-formerly-from-spc/spc15184/tip-plug-solderless-black/dp/79K4787?CMP=KNC-GPLA
http://www.newark.com/pdfs/datasheets/spc/TA-711.pdf
Remove the handle and replace it with a 4" (or your choice) length
of plastic tubing (Nylon would be nice) drilled through axially to
7/32" dia and tapped 1/4-32 by 1/4" deep on one end.
On the meter end you could use:
http://www.newark.com/johnson-emerson/108-0303-001/banana-plug-15a-solderless-black/dp/39F1532
https://emersonconnectivity.com/OA_MEDIA/specs/pi-108-0303-001.pdf
and in the middle:
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Test-Lead-Wire-Silicone-3086.htm?gclid=CL-Hn6SBtb0CFenm7AodMm4ASA
I'd use the 195 strand 18 gauge stuff.
Jasen Betts
Mar 30, 2014, 5:16:20 AM3/30/14
to
On 2014-03-27, Je...@theshop.com <Je...@theshop.com> wrote:
> The fact the wires were never even soldered to the tip shows just how
> cheaply made this thing is.
>
> I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
> since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
> ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
> own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
> much better for automotive use.
the stuff they use inside walls is way too stiff, you can get wire
> The fact the wires were never even soldered to the tip shows just how
> cheaply made this thing is.
>
> I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
> since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
> ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
> own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
> much better for automotive use.
for meter probes with soft insulation and fine strands
The local "Powerbase" electrician's supply has a roll of red and a
roll of blask from which they will sell cut lenghts to walk-in
customers.
Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.
Mar 30, 2014, 11:20:42 AM3/30/14
to
In article <lh8nd4$bm4$1...@gonzo.reversiblemaps.ath.cx>, ja...@xnet.co.nz
says...
and average of 15 bucks/50Ft..
most of it in the neighborhood of 65 or so strands at ~ 36 awg.
The insulation is a very soft flexible PVC.
Years ago the company I work for used to make the John Fluke
test lead wire. I remember the lab had about 500,000 feet of
RED that was not properly color mixed and so it wasn't the org/red
that fluke used and got rejected.
But the company managed to find a buyer that actually
payed more for it than fluke contracted it for. They remade
the Fluke RED which had a matching BLACK wire of 500,000 ft.
a few of the color rejected reels were squirreled away for a rainy
day :)
Jamie
says...
> > The fact the wires were never even soldered to the tip shows just how
> > cheaply made this thing is.
> >
> > I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
> > since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
> > ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
> > own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
> > much better for automotive use.
>
> the stuff they use inside walls is way too stiff, you can get wire
> for meter probes with soft insulation and fine strands
>
> The local "Powerbase" electrician's supply has a roll of red and a
> roll of blask from which they will sell cut lenghts to walk-in
> customers.
>
>
He needs real test lead wire, which can be found all over the place..
> > cheaply made this thing is.
> >
> > I'd consider buying a whole new set of leads, and a better quality set,
> > since they can be used on any meters, but if all they sell are molded
> > ones, I'd rather buy all the parts, and use a decent wire, and make my
> > own. I may even use some stranded #14 house wire, which will hold up
> > much better for automotive use.
>
> the stuff they use inside walls is way too stiff, you can get wire
> for meter probes with soft insulation and fine strands
>
> The local "Powerbase" electrician's supply has a roll of red and a
> roll of blask from which they will sell cut lenghts to walk-in
> customers.
>
>
and average of 15 bucks/50Ft..
most of it in the neighborhood of 65 or so strands at ~ 36 awg.
The insulation is a very soft flexible PVC.
Years ago the company I work for used to make the John Fluke
test lead wire. I remember the lab had about 500,000 feet of
RED that was not properly color mixed and so it wasn't the org/red
that fluke used and got rejected.
But the company managed to find a buyer that actually
payed more for it than fluke contracted it for. They remade
the Fluke RED which had a matching BLACK wire of 500,000 ft.
a few of the color rejected reels were squirreled away for a rainy
day :)
Jamie
Shaun
Mar 30, 2014, 11:06:43 AM3/30/14
to
wrote in message news:kfi4j91ge6kfji27c...@4ax.com...
18 years ago I used to work at an industrial and instrumentation electronics
repair shop. I used to repair test leads; the ones with moulded ends could
be fixed by putting the handle in a vice and heating the probe end with a
soldering iron to soften the plastic, then pull out the metal tip. I would
resolder the wire to the probe end, heat the whole thing up again and
re-insert it back into the handle, sometimes I would have to reshape the
plastic at the tip. I would repair Dielectric strength tester leads /
probes that way, which were quite expensive to purchase and this way the
customer would not have to wait for them to be shipped to us (~three weeks).
I've done this with DMM test leads too.
Shaun
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