Punching "Nylon" Wall Plates

[Jim Thompson]

I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".

Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
punch, or is it likely to shatter?

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

[Don Y]

On 9/18/2014 2:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?

I think "tear" and/or deform are more likely.

Note that you can find wall plates for damn near any sort of
connector -- even things like DB25's!

OTOH, if you want it to be "pale chartreuse" you may be
SOL.

They're cheap (nylon ones). Try it and see (if your punches
are nice and sharp/clean). Just take it slow so the punch
can *ease* through the "plastic" instead of having to force it
aside.

[Tom Miller]

"Jim Thompson" <To-Email-Use-Th...@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote in
message news:vpkm1adedqpknikaj...@4ax.com...

Can you heat it up till it softens?

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <vpkm1adedqpknikaj...@4ax.com>, To-Email-Use-
The-Enve...@On-My-Web-Site.com says...

>
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>
> ...Jim Thompson

I would be causes about that. If the nylon is fresh you'll be
able to do that because it should be soft however, nylon gets
brittle over time..

For the cleanest holes in town in a plate cover, use the
two mounting hole screws to mount against a block of wood and
use a hole saw, the size you need, preferably in a drill
press.

applying pressure to the plate out of context will most
likely crack it, because it is most likely kind of
hard by now.

Jamie

[amdx]

On 9/18/2014 4:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>
> ...Jim Thompson
>

Second resort, soldering iron, exacto and a round/square file.

Mikek

[rickman]

On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?

It is hard to beat a sharp drill. I suppose you want a larger hole
than you have a drill for?

--

Rick

[Jim Thompson]

I have a nice hand reamer that can get me up to ~1/2", but I need 3/4"
this time. I may just have to hand file my way :-(

[Rheilly Phoull]

On 19/09/2014 7:59 AM, Jim Thompson wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Sep 2014 19:54:24 -0400, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>>> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>>>
>>> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
>>> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>>
>> It is hard to beat a sharp drill. I suppose you want a larger hole
>> than you have a drill for?
>
> I have a nice hand reamer that can get me up to ~1/2", but I need 3/4"
> this time. I may just have to hand file my way :-(
>
> ...Jim Thompson
>

Hole saws are pretty cheap if you are only doing wood or plastic.

[k...@attt.bizz]

3/4" isn't a big hole but you're probably right, a hole saw is
probably the easiest with the lowest probability of a problem. For
wood, I'd use a Forstner bit.

[Martin Riddle]

A Step drill would be handy.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/step%2520drill?NCNI-5

Cheers

[Robert Baer]

Jim Thompson wrote:
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>
> ...Jim Thompson

Most nylons are flexible and are very amenable to being drilled or
punched; slightly compressible.

[rickman]

On 9/18/2014 7:59 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Sep 2014 19:54:24 -0400, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>>> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>>>
>>> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
>>> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>>
>> It is hard to beat a sharp drill. I suppose you want a larger hole
>> than you have a drill for?
>
> I have a nice hand reamer that can get me up to ~1/2", but I need 3/4"
> this time. I may just have to hand file my way :-(

I don't get it. 3/4 inch should be a flat bit. I've had one forever
and it's not like I have tons of tools. They are what, $2? They cut
pretty clean holes, especially when new and still sharp. They have a
blade on the edges that cut like a hole saw. If the plastic is not too
thick the bulk of the blade won't even be used. I'm not sure if it
would be best to cut from the nice side down or the ugly side up... I
suppose you could do a bit of both and meet in the middle to minimize
the chance of splitting out. Certainly use a backing block no matter what.

--

Rick

[Don Y]

The problem with most drills will be one of heating. The nylon/plastic
wants to flow (or chip -- e.g., the pilot) instead of being cut cleanly.

I'd be tempted to try a brace with a 3/4 bit -- primarily because
of the GREATLY reduced (:>) RPM's. If you're only doing one (or
a dozen), there's very little time to be saved with a faster drill
(esp if there is substantial rework/cleanup required).

I had to make some "recessed RJ45" wall plates (i.e., so I could
plug an umbilicus into the wall plate and hide the service loop
*in* that recess). I chose a Dremel *expecting* to remove a lot
of material (I married two different wall plates to get the
result I wanted).

But, it was a real problem keeping the material from "being
semi-liquid" (which would have been unsightly to clean up had my
operations been on the exposed side of the plate)

[Clifford Heath]

On 19/09/14 14:45, rickman wrote:
>>> On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>>>> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".

> I don't get it. 3/4 inch should be a flat bit.

That won't work in thin plastic, especially if it's soft. Once it breaks
through at one point, it basically tears the rest apart.

[rickman]

On 9/19/2014 1:02 AM, Don Y wrote:
> On 9/18/2014 9:45 PM, rickman wrote:
>> On 9/18/2014 7:59 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>>> On Thu, 18 Sep 2014 19:54:24 -0400, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>>>>> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>>>>>
>>>>> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
>>>>> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>>>>
>>>> It is hard to beat a sharp drill. I suppose you want a larger hole
>>>> than you have a drill for?
>>>
>>> I have a nice hand reamer that can get me up to ~1/2", but I need 3/4"
>>> this time. I may just have to hand file my way :-(
>>
>> I don't get it. 3/4 inch should be a flat bit. I've had one forever
>> and it's not like I have tons of tools. They are what, $2? They cut
>> pretty clean holes, especially when new and still sharp. They have a
>> blade on the edges that cut like a hole saw. If the plastic is not too
>> thick the bulk of the blade won't even be used. I'm not sure if it
>> would be best to cut from the nice side down or the ugly side up... I
>> suppose you could do a bit of both and meet in the middle to minimize
>> the chance of splitting out. Certainly use a backing block no matter
>> what.
>
> The problem with most drills will be one of heating. The nylon/plastic
> wants to flow (or chip -- e.g., the pilot) instead of being cut cleanly.

I think you are smoking dope with this one. I have drilled plastic
plenty of times with no problem from heating. Usually I get very nice
curlies coming up similar to drilling metal which *will* heat up.

> I'd be tempted to try a brace with a 3/4 bit -- primarily because
> of the GREATLY reduced (:>) RPM's. If you're only doing one (or
> a dozen), there's very little time to be saved with a faster drill
> (esp if there is substantial rework/cleanup required).

You've never heard of a variable speed drill???

> I had to make some "recessed RJ45" wall plates (i.e., so I could
> plug an umbilicus into the wall plate and hide the service loop
> *in* that recess). I chose a Dremel *expecting* to remove a lot
> of material (I married two different wall plates to get the
> result I wanted).
>
> But, it was a real problem keeping the material from "being
> semi-liquid" (which would have been unsightly to clean up had my
> operations been on the exposed side of the plate)

A Dremel abrasive tool is not a drill bit. Of course that will heat up.

BTW, I bought the Dremel drill press in spite of the fact that it has
plastic parts. It is a piece of crap. When you pull the head down the
drill bit moves all over the place.

--

Rick

[rickman]

That's called using finesse. That is why I suggested that it be drilled
from both sides. The flat part of the blade will never touch the
material. The edge blades will cut through the outer circle before that
happens. I've ended up with a small disk in my hand nearly every time
I've drilled through plywood with one of these.

Oh, and Nylon is seldom soft. It is a hard plastic and rather tough. I
guess that is why they can make fine stockings out of it.

--

Rick

[mrob...@att.net]

Newsgroups trimmed and Followup-To: set.

In sci.electronics.basics Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-Th...@on-my-web-site.com> wrote:
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?

If you can flex the plate noticeably with two hands, it *might* work.
If you can't, it'll probably shatter.

[in a later message]

> I have a nice hand reamer that can get me up to ~1/2", but I need 3/4"
> this time.

If you can live with 7/8" and steel, they are an off-the-shelf item at
the hardware store. (The 1/2" is a trade size for conduit; the actual
hole is bigger.)
http://www-public.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=58C6
http://www-public.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=68C6

Hubbell has some in plastic with an 0.625" hole, but you might have to
go to the electrical supply: NP737AL, NP737, NP737I, NP737W in almond,
brown, ivory, and white respectively. They also make some metal ones
with a single 0.875" hole for a key switch: SS12RKL and SS12RKLM. In
their custom line, 430 has a single 0.755" hole and 431 has two. All of
this stuff is in:
http://ecatalog.hubbell-wiring.com/productinformation/viewcatalog.aspx?Dest=hubbell-wiring.com/press/catalog/N.pdf

Standard disclaimers apply; I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.

Matt Roberds

[Clifford Heath]

On 19/09/14 17:21, rickman wrote:
> On 9/19/2014 1:58 AM, Clifford Heath wrote:
>> On 19/09/14 14:45, rickman wrote:
>>>>> On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>>>>>> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>>> I don't get it. 3/4 inch should be a flat bit.
>>
>> That won't work in thin plastic, especially if it's soft. Once it breaks
>> through at one point, it basically tears the rest apart.
>
> That's called using finesse. That is why I suggested that it be drilled
> from both sides. The flat part of the blade will never touch the
> material. The edge blades will cut through the outer circle before that
> happens. I've ended up with a small disk in my hand nearly every time
> I've drilled through plywood with one of these.

Yes, you can get away with that sometimes. Not often on curved thin
sheets though, like the front of a wall plate often is.

[George Herold]

On Thursday, September 18, 2014 9:44:36 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Sep 2014 09:13:35 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
>
> <rhe...@bigslong.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On 19/09/2014 7:59 AM, Jim Thompson wrote:
>
> >> On Thu, 18 Sep 2014 19:54:24 -0400, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>
>
> >>> On 9/18/2014 5:51 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:
> >>>> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
> >>>>
> >>>> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> >>>> punch, or is it likely to shatter?
> >>>
> >>> It is hard to beat a sharp drill. I suppose you want a larger hole
> >>> than you have a drill for?
> >>
> >> I have a nice hand reamer that can get me up to ~1/2", but I need 3/4"
> >> this time. I may just have to hand file my way :-(
>
> >>
>
> >> ...Jim Thompson
>
> >>
>
> >Hole saws are pretty cheap if you are only doing wood or plastic
>

> 3/4" isn't a big hole but you're probably right, a hole saw is
> probably the easiest with the lowest probability of a problem. For
> wood, I'd use a Forstner bit.

I like the hole saw idea. A comment not related to nylon. But if you are machining plexiglass you'll discover that it comes in two "flavors" cast and extruded. You can machine the cast stuff, while the extruded tends to crack and shatter... built in stresses or something.

George H.

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <1k3n1a1s2k10jqi1j...@4ax.com>, Martin Riddle

That would be my approach as well, but with one addition: Keep the
workpiece cool by flooding with water. The problem when drilling
plastic is that the plastic melts, and gums things up. Water keeps
things cool.

Joe Gwinn

[Cydrome Leader]

In sci.electronics.design Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-Th...@on-my-web-site.com> wrote:
> I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>
> Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
> punch, or is it likely to shatter?

why not just try it? wall plates are like 50 cents to replace, who who
cares either way.

[Jim Thompson]

That's what I already decided.

[Don Y]

That's why I offered the brace w/ bit solution. REALLY LOW
RPM's (like 10? :>) Almost as if you were using a "guided knife"
to chew its way through the material. You can *see* when things
are headed south BEFORE they are a total loss.

[ChesterW]

:) Ordered mine today.

ChesterW

[Lasse Langwadt Christensen]

and don't even try to clean it with alcohol it cracks and shatters like
hardened glass

-Lasse

[k...@attt.bizz]

If your material is pretty thin, perhaps. They're really rather poor
drills.

[rickman]

I don't know what wall plates you have, but mine are not curved other
than right at the edges. Flat as a board. I'm tempted to dig one up
even if I have to pull it off a wall and give it a try. Not likely to
be nylon though. I'm not sure what they make the real cheapies out of,
but I don't think it is nylon as they are rather brittle and nylon isn't
brittle, at least in its early life.

--

Rick

[k...@attt.bizz]

The normal wall plate isn't nylon but nylon plates are sold as
"unbreakable".

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <04gp1ahevqbcaqffb...@4ax.com>,

Works up to about 1/8". Iv'e used them in stainless steel, with lots
of black sulfur oil. Need to run slow and powerful, and don't
hesitate. Worked just fine.

Joe Gwinn

[Joe Gwinn]

In article <lviod2$ats$1...@dont-email.me>, rickman <gnu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

This is probably melamine , which machines easily, somewhat like
bakelite.

Joe Gwinn

[default]

On Thu, 18 Sep 2014 14:51:38 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-Th...@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

>I have some blank wall outlet cover plates, claiming to be "nylon".
>

>Do you think I could punch a hole thru one of these with a chassis
>punch, or is it likely to shatter?
>

> ...Jim Thompson
If you need a round hole - a wood boring bit with "tangs" on the
periphery so the outside is engaged as well as the center called "brad
point bits," or spade bits like Irwin "speed bore" style.

What I've found to be exceptional at cutting all plastics is the
"multi tool" which uses a small blade and reciprocal oscillations to
cut. (like those things doctors use to remove casts - but with real
cutting edges instead of a wavy edge)

[Michael A. Terrell]

Joe Gwinn wrote:
>
> Works up to about 1/8". Iv'e used them in stainless steel, with lots
> of black sulfur oil. Need to run slow and powerful, and don't
> hesitate. Worked just fine.

I've used Unibits in steel up to 3/16" without problems.

The lowest speed on my drill press is 190 RPM, so plastic is
generally no problem.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

[Jim Thompson]

On Tue, 23 Sep 2014 15:37:12 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
>Joe Gwinn wrote:
>>
>> Works up to about 1/8". Iv'e used them in stainless steel, with lots
>> of black sulfur oil. Need to run slow and powerful, and don't
>> hesitate. Worked just fine.
>
>
> I've used Unibits in steel up to 3/16" without problems.
>
> The lowest speed on my drill press is 190 RPM, so plastic is
>generally no problem.

Finally got around to doing it. Turns out that the nylon plates punch
just fine... Greenlee 3/4"

[ChesterW]

Thanks for posting that link Martin. The step drill is my new favorite tool.

http://tinyurl.com/n3w4yyq

ChesterW

[meow...@care2.com]

On Friday, September 19, 2014 3:05:16 AM UTC+1, Martin Riddle wrote:

> A Step drill would be handy.
> http://www.homedepot.com/s/step%2520drill?NCNI-5

defintely buy elsewhere though, those prices! I paid under $10 for a set of 3 titanium ones.


NT