DIY PCBs
Alan
but can't get the film to come out of either of my laser printers
without being a crinkled mess. :-( In most cases the film just gets
stuck around the fused roller, requiring me to remove the fuser from
the printer and remove the film.
This Press-n-Peel fil ain't cheap.
Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
Thanks
D from BC
wrote:
I've tried it. Got sick of it.
I think it's very unreliable for high density surface mount designs.
I now use UV expose methods.
D from BC
myrealaddress(at)comic(dot)com
BC, Canada
Posted to usenet sci.electronics.design
John Larkin
wrote:
>Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film from http://www.techniks.com/
You can get a few small 2-sided, plated-through boards for $50 or so.
It's not worth the mess of making your own boards.
John
Joel Koltner
news:d3f269a1-5d8d-4139...@n7g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
> Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
> or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
Unless you just don't have the money (or enjoy the PCB fabrication process as
a hobby), I agree with John -- these days you might as well just pony up the
$50 and have some boards commercially cut: They're of much better quality with
much tighter specs than what most people manage to produce at home with
etching methods.
(And I say this as someone who did the whole FeCl etching bit in high school,
and would build AND/OR/NOT gates out of diodes because I could get diodes for
a penny each and logic ICs were more like a dime to a quarter each!)
One thing that can still be worth it is making or buying is a CNC mill: It
tends to be just as capable as what *most* people manage to get from etching
(in terms of reliable minimum trace spaces and wdiths), is nowhere near as
finicky, and gets you a board much more quickly than the $50 "one week turn"
commercial approach. The main downside is that (as with etching your own
board) you still don't have plated vias, but creative use of leaded components
and good routing skills can minimize how many vias you need anyway. The cool
thing about a mill is that it's so much more versatile than just being a PCB
cutting machine -- you can also do front panels, brackets, cases, etc., or of
course just turn off the CNC portion and go wild by hand.
Finally, don't dismiss "dead bug" style construction directly on copper clad
boards... if you're only making a few boards, and they're not that complex,
just hand wiring them can be faster overall than drafting a schematic and
laying out a PCB.
---Joel
Tim Williams
wrote:
> Finally, don't dismiss "dead bug" style construction directly on copper clad
> boards... if you're only making a few boards, and they're not that complex,
> just hand wiring them can be faster overall than drafting a schematic and
> laying out a PCB.
For one-offs, I use pad-per-hole PCB. It's just as tedious as drawing
a board (in real Sharpie or on CAD), and it's modifiable in case I
missed something.
Tim
Jon Kirwan
It's been a while since I've had any available and handy. Where do
you get your pad-per-hole boards?
Jon
Tim Williams
> It's been a while since I've had any available and handy. Where do
> you get your pad-per-hole boards?
RadioShack. :P
Digikey carries various protoboard stock, but you have to look
carefully. Last time I thought I ordered pad-per-hole, I ended up
getting copper-one-side perfboard! Which is nice if you want to etch
but too lazt to drill, but I'm not usually in the mood for all that
Sharpie work...
Tim
Jon Kirwan
<tmor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On May 5, 12:09�am, Jon Kirwan <j...@infinitefactors.org> wrote:
>> It's been a while since I've had any available and handy. �Where do
>> you get your pad-per-hole boards?
>
>RadioShack. :P
Cripes. I think last time I looked at RS, it was more expensive than
I wanted to pay (or else it wasn't there at all.) I'll look again.
>Digikey carries various protoboard stock, but you have to look
>carefully. Last time I thought I ordered pad-per-hole, I ended up
>getting copper-one-side perfboard! Which is nice if you want to etch
>but too lazt to drill, but I'm not usually in the mood for all that
>Sharpie work...
Uh. If it is that hard to find, any clues how I should look? (I
guess I should just take a crack at it, but since you might have
already made all the mistakes and figured it out I'm hoping you may
remember enough to clue me in.)
(I also wire-wrap, still, for some one-offs.)
Thanks,
Jon
John Nagle
Toner transfer PCB making never really works very well. Making
films and exposing photosensitized boards works much better. But
it's not worth bothering. The blank boards, the chemicals, and
the tanks cost more than sending the job out. Try some board fab house
like Express PCB. When a board house does it, both sides line up,
the holes are in the right places, and the holes are plated through.
John Nagle
Jasen Betts
I've been using tin plated stripboard from Farnell/Newark (part
number 924-3230) it's much easier to solder than the bare copper
stuff, And the 1mm holes on this board are actually 1mm diameter
(not smaller like many others are).
I stuck a 3mm drill bit into the handle part of a cheap 3mm scredriver
for cutting the tracks with,
petrus bitbyter
"Alan" <dev...@iinet.net.au> schreef in bericht
news:d3f269a1-5d8d-4139...@n7g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
Have a look at:
http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html
petrus bitbyter
Eeyore
John Larkin wrote:
> On Mon, 4 May 2009 19:50:33 -0700 (PDT), Alan <dev...@iinet.net.au>
> wrote:
>
> >Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film from http://www.techniks.com/
> >but can't get the film to come out of either of my laser printers
> >without being a crinkled mess. :-( In most cases the film just gets
> >stuck around the fused roller, requiring me to remove the fuser from
> >the printer and remove the film.
> >
> >This Press-n-Peel fil ain't cheap.
> >
> >Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
> >or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
>
>
> You can get a few small 2-sided, plated-through boards for $50 or so.
> It's not worth the mess of making your own boards.
ExpressPCB or is it PCBexpress ? and the like. They even supply the schematic and
layout software. Nothing fancy but it works.
Graham
Eeyore
John Nagle wrote:
> Alan wrote:
> > Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film from http://www.techniks.com/
> > but can't get the film to come out of either of my laser printers
> > without being a crinkled mess. :-( In most cases the film just gets
> > stuck around the fused roller, requiring me to remove the fuser from
> > the printer and remove the film.
> >
> > This Press-n-Peel fil ain't cheap.
> >
> > Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
> > or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
>
> Toner transfer PCB making never really works very well. Making
> films and exposing photosensitized boards works much better. But
> it's not worth bothering. The blank boards, the chemicals, and
> the tanks cost more than sending the job out. Try some board fab house
> like Express PCB. When a board house does it, both sides line up,
> the holes are in the right places, and the holes are plated through.
I've used them. Perfectly decent quality.
Graham
Eeyore
Jon Kirwan wrote:
> (I also wire-wrap, still, for some one-offs.)
That takes me back to my college days !
Graham
TheM
I used it many years ago. If a printer does not like it try another. Preferably the kind
that minimally bends the paper. With some printers if you use another paper
tray it bends the paper less.
Use laminator to merge the foil with the pcb. In fact I hear people use regular paper
today + laminator, google it up. Might be some kinds of paper that work better.
But why bother? Boards are so cheap today and who has time for the messy chemicals,
drilling etc.
M
Jan Panteltje
<zapwireD...@yahoo.com> wrote in
<IVOLl.255400$Yx2.1...@en-nntp-06.dc1.easynews.com>:
>"Alan" <dev...@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
>news:d3f269a1-5d8d-4139...@n7g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
>> Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
>> or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
>
>Unless you just don't have the money (or enjoy the PCB fabrication process as
>a hobby), I agree with John -- these days you might as well just pony up the
>$50 and have some boards commercially cut: They're of much better quality with
>much tighter specs than what most people manage to produce at home with
>etching methods.
Agreed, I had the latest bunch made locally.
No more chemicals in the kitchen, no more stains,
worked out cheaper too.
Jan Panteltje
<jo...@infinitefactors.org> wrote in
<qmkvv4pji7r5q0aea...@4ax.com>:
>
>(I also wire-wrap, still, for some one-offs.)
>
>Thanks,
>Jon
For one -offs I solder with flat cable:
ftp://panteltje.com/pub/z80/sound_card_bottom.jpg
Jan Panteltje
Phil Hobbs
> Finally, don't dismiss "dead bug" style construction directly on copper clad
> boards... if you're only making a few boards, and they're not that complex,
> just hand wiring them can be faster overall than drafting a schematic and
> laying out a PCB.
>
> ---Joel
>
>
Amen. Lower strays too.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
Rich Webb
wrote:
>Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film from http://www.techniks.com/
I've used PnP Blue successfully with an old HP LJ-4ML and the results
are okay.
As others have recommended, going with a commercial house often makes
sense. http://www.batchpcb.com/ will do double sided, plated-through,
solder masked, silk screened prototypes for $2.50/sq.in. Not overnight,
though; more like over-month.
However ...
Try this: Print your pattern on a plain piece of paper using the same
feed path that you would use to manually feed single sheet, heavy stock.
Then cut a piece of PnP that's, say, 1/2" wider on three sides and 1"
wider on the feed side. Affix that to the previously printed paper, over
the printed pattern, matte side up. If you have any, use a piece of
"laser printer labels" stock (the stuff for address/return labels) to
stick it down on just the leading edge. The adhesive on labels won't do
Bad Things to the printer; clear tape or masking tape might. Then
overprint that sheet with your pattern. Trying to feed just the PnP
film, without paper backing, will rarely work well (as you've seen).
If there's room, it's also a good idea to tile your pattern so that you
print two or four at once, even if you only intend to make one board.
Lots of little things can go wrong (stray cat hairs!) with the transfer
to the copper laminate, or the etching, or the drilling.
Also, if you don't already, for homebrew projects consider using 1/32"
board stock instead of 1/16". It's plenty stiff for most small projects
and has the GREAT benefit of being easily cut with ordinary scissors.
Less dust when drilling holes, too.
And, when you're done, you can get tin-plating solution that helps keep
down the oxidation of the copper traces. MG Chemicals makes a solution
that has a decent shelf life and is easy to use. More toxic chemicals!
But, unless you're doing it for the experience/glory of doing it, a
commercial house is the way to go. You might even get extra copies of
your board if they tile it to fill-in a stock panel size.
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
a7yvm1...@netzero.com
<jjlar...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 4 May 2009 19:50:33 -0700 (PDT), Alan <devi...@iinet.net.au>
> wrote:
>
> >Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film fromhttp://www.techniks.com/
> >but can't get the film to come out of either of my laser printers
> >without being a crinkled mess. :-( In most cases the film just gets
> >stuck around the fused roller, requiring me to remove the fuser from
> >the printer and remove the film.
>
> >This Press-n-Peel fil ain't cheap.
>
> >Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
> >or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
>
> >Thanks
>
> You can get a few small 2-sided, plated-through boards for $50 or so.
> It's not worth the mess of making your own boards.
>
> John
Oh absolutely. DIY PCB is a waste of time, effort, resources, space
and money. Plus you get an unreliable, unsightly mess with no
soldermask or silkscreen.
If you do want to quickly build some circuitry, I have a bunch of
surfboards for SMT parts, then I solder them down to a big piece of
copperclad board to get a nice ground plane.
However, I did make some PCBs with the Radio Shack dry transfer films
years ago; it worked but boy did it take a lot of time.
a7yvm1...@netzero.com
wrote:
> "Alan" <devi...@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
One week? ONE WEEK? Try APC, more like one day.
Tim Williams
> On Mon, 4 May 2009 22:23:00 -0700 (PDT), Tim Williams
>
Let's see, the "big" pad-per-hole perfboard is here:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102843
$4.49 / 2200 = 2 milidollars per hole.
As for Digikey, hmm they seem to have changed their homepage colors a
little bit. Anyway,
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=V1118-ND
This looks like the biggest board they have which is noticably pad-per-
hole. 9.2 x 11" isn't all used, let's say 8.5 x 10.5" is. In that
case, it has about 95 rows and 105 columns, or 9975 holes. At $64.06/
ea., that's 6.4 milidollars/hole. Ok, so the RadioShank stock is
phenolic 0.042", not FR4 0.062", but it's still three times cheaper!
Worth a check at other places to see if there are better deals. I'm
amazed, that's the first time I've ever been able to say RadioShank
had the better deal.
Tim
John Larkin
<zapwireD...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"Alan" <dev...@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
>news:d3f269a1-5d8d-4139...@n7g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
>> Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
>> or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
>
>Unless you just don't have the money (or enjoy the PCB fabrication process as
>a hobby), I agree with John -- these days you might as well just pony up the
>$50 and have some boards commercially cut: They're of much better quality with
>much tighter specs than what most people manage to produce at home with
>etching methods.
>
>(And I say this as someone who did the whole FeCl etching bit in high school,
>and would build AND/OR/NOT gates out of diodes because I could get diodes for
>a penny each and logic ICs were more like a dime to a quarter each!)
>
>One thing that can still be worth it is making or buying is a CNC mill: It
>tends to be just as capable as what *most* people manage to get from etching
>(in terms of reliable minimum trace spaces and wdiths), is nowhere near as
>finicky, and gets you a board much more quickly than the $50 "one week turn"
>commercial approach. The main downside is that (as with etching your own
>board) you still don't have plated vias, but creative use of leaded components
>and good routing skills can minimize how many vias you need anyway. The cool
>thing about a mill is that it's so much more versatile than just being a PCB
>cutting machine -- you can also do front panels, brackets, cases, etc., or of
>course just turn off the CNC portion and go wild by hand.
We had one of the official PCB milling systems for a while, on
indefinite loan from another company. It was such a PITA to use that
we gave it back.
We do have a nice little Sherline mill
ftp://jjlarkin.lmi.net/Sherline.JPG
which is great for small panels, machined aluminum gadgets, and we
also use it with a swivel blade to cut front-panel label outlines. But
we don't use it for making PC boards. Commercial plated-through boards
used to be expensive, but they're cheap nowadays.
>
>Finally, don't dismiss "dead bug" style construction directly on copper clad
>boards... if you're only making a few boards, and they're not that complex,
>just hand wiring them can be faster overall than drafting a schematic and
>laying out a PCB.
Why flip those poor bugs upside down, with their tiny feet waving in
the air? That's cruel. Just bend out any non-grounded pins and solder
any grounded and nc pins directly to the copperclad. That way you
don't have to count the pins backwards.
John
Richard Swaby
I've been making one off boards for years with photo resist board. I
don't use any other method to prototype a circuit these days. If
you're pushed for time it's a lot better than waiting a for boards
from a PCB house. Single sided are a breeze and double sided aren't
difficult even with ground planes. I can have a 3x3 inch board etched
and drilled in an hour or so.
If you use GC-Prevue to import the Gerber and Excellon files you can
check your artwork and print onto inkjet film if it's OK. You can get
a good contact print if you hold the film and photo board between 2
sheets of glass with bulldog clips and expose for about 5 minutes.
Develop with NaOH and etch with FeCl3. Drilling the holes is easy. The
drill finds the centre of the pads just like it would with a
centre-punch mark. For a really good PCB you can use tin plate
solution to finish off.
Richard
Nobody
>> Toner transfer PCB making never really works very well. Making
>> films and exposing photosensitized boards works much better. But
>> it's not worth bothering. The blank boards, the chemicals, and
>> the tanks cost more than sending the job out. Try some board fab house
>> like Express PCB. When a board house does it, both sides line up,
>> the holes are in the right places, and the holes are plated through.
>
> I've used them. Perfectly decent quality.
While having a quick look at their site, I noticed this bit:
> Reviewing these packages, one generally finds Windows applications
> converted from, or inspired by DOS based user interfaces. It's clear
> that the majority of these programs are developed ignoring the past 10
> years of user interface design.
Having recently played around with both FreePCB and KiCAD, I couldn't
agree more.
John Devereux
> On Mon, 04 May 2009 20:20:51 -0700, John Larkin
> <jjla...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 4 May 2009 19:50:33 -0700 (PDT), Alan <dev...@iinet.net.au>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film from http://www.techniks.com/
>>>but can't get the film to come out of either of my laser printers
>>>without being a crinkled mess. :-( In most cases the film just gets
>>>stuck around the fused roller, requiring me to remove the fuser from
>>>the printer and remove the film.
>>>
>>>This Press-n-Peel fil ain't cheap.
>>>
>>>Anyone go any experience with this product? Any hints of waht to tyry
>>>or alternative transfer techniques would be most appreciated.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>
>>You can get a few small 2-sided, plated-through boards for $50 or so.
>>It's not worth the mess of making your own boards.
>>
>>John
>
> I've been making one off boards for years with photo resist board. I
> don't use any other method to prototype a circuit these days. If
> you're pushed for time it's a lot better than waiting a for boards
> from a PCB house. Single sided are a breeze and double sided aren't
> difficult even with ground planes. I can have a 3x3 inch board etched
> and drilled in an hour or so.
I like single sided with ground plane on the other side. You only need
to expose one side, then drill through and link with tinned copper
wire. I only tend to use it for prototyping slightly tricky, yet
basically simple analog stuff though, like SMPS chips or RF. Also good
for making connector adapters for prototyping.
Another point would be to use Ammonium Persulfate etchant. It's much
cleaner than ferric chloride. The reaction products are water soluble,
you just end up with a light blue coloured solution. I think it has a
shorter shelf life when in solution, but can be rejuvenated by topping
up occasionally with fresh crystals.
--
John Devereux
o...@uakron.edu
stickly label stock. He just cannot wait to collect it from the dust
bin after a secretary prints some labels. Has exactly the right
release and texture for toner transfer using a hot press. I'll ask him
which brand of sticky label they use.
Steve
Joel Koltner
news:pan.2009.05.05....@nowhere.com...
> Having recently played around with both FreePCB and KiCAD, I couldn't
> agree more.
A lot of PCB layout programmers could learn a thing or two by playing with
CorelDraw or SolidWorks for awhile!
D from BC
If only Coreldraw used a netlist. :(
D from BC
myrealaddress(at)comic(dot)com
BC, Canada
Posted to usenet sci.electronics.design
a7yvm1...@netzero.com
> This looks like the biggest board they have which is noticably pad-per-
> hole. 9.2 x 11" isn't all used, let's say 8.5 x 10.5" is. In that
> case, it has about 95 rows and 105 columns, or 9975 holes. At $64.06/
> ea., that's 6.4 milidollars/hole. Ok, so the RadioShank stock is
> phenolic 0.042", not FR4 0.062", but it's still three times cheaper!
> Worth a check at other places to see if there are better deals. I'm
> amazed, that's the first time I've ever been able to say RadioShank
> had the better deal.
>
> Tim
Then make your own pad per hole with this
http://www.vectorelect.com/Catpdf/New%20Page%2076.pdf
Spehro Pefhany
<zapwireD...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Amen to that! I had to buy a 3D connection 6-axis thingie just because
they couldn't figure out how to do 3D manipulation like SW.
Rich Grise
>>
>> I've been making one off boards for years with photo resist board. I
>> don't use any other method to prototype a circuit these days. If
>> you're pushed for time it's a lot better than waiting a for boards
>> from a PCB house. Single sided are a breeze and double sided aren't
>> difficult even with ground planes. I can have a 3x3 inch board etched
>> and drilled in an hour or so.
Vector used to make a board about 4 x 5 inches, holes on the .1" grid,
with one side copper plated with little donuts around the holes - a dandy
ground "plane" ("Holey plane, Batman") and pad per hole on the other side.
There were also traces around the perimeter, and either a connection area
or an edge connector on one end; I don't recall which. Vector doesn't seem
to have them on their website - maybe there just weren't enough customers. )-;
Anyway, instead of laying out a board and etching it, I'd take one
of those babies and just build the circuit on the spot, using #30
wire-wrap wire. ;-)
Of course, if it was going into production, then I'd bother to lay
it out. Hmmm ... maybe that's because I don't like doing layout? ;-)
Cheers!
Rich
a7yvm1...@netzero.com
wrote:
One wonders who the idiots are who write these festering piles of
crap. In no other industry would such pitifully weak software be
accepted.
Alan
> On Mon, 04 May 2009 20:20:51 -0700, John Larkin
>
>
>
>
>
> >On Mon, 4 May 2009 19:50:33 -0700 (PDT), Alan <devi...@iinet.net.au>
> >wrote:
>
> >>Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film fromhttp://www.techniks.com/
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks guys for your suggestions. Appreciated.
The reason for DIY in this case rather than sending them out initially
for fabrication was it is a prototype design.
Also there is more than one board design for the entire product.
As performance of the product is layout dependant, I'd rather get it
correct before sending the design out for mass production.
Besides I might have got something wrong. It would be a tad
embarrasing to send out an order with a mistake in it, only to end up
with a stack of landfill. :-(
Once again, thanks for your suggestions and input.
Alan
Martin Riddle
never had a wrinkle problem, stuff worked very well.
Cheers
"Alan" <dev...@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
news:d3f269a1-5d8d-4139...@n7g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
Bob Larter
> Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film from http://www.techniks.com/
> but can't get the film to come out of either of my laser printers
> without being a crinkled mess. :-( In most cases the film just gets
> stuck around the fused roller, requiring me to remove the fuser from
> the printer and remove the film.
Sounds like your laser needs a new cleaning pad. They're impregnated
with silicon oil to keep the hot roller from sticking to the prints.
You also need need a straight paper path for thick/stiff sheets, so if
your laser has the option, flip down the back flap so that the sheet
exits at the rear instead at the top.
--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Larter
> On May 4, 11:04 pm, "Joel Koltner" <zapwireDASHgro...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>> Finally, don't dismiss "dead bug" style construction directly on copper clad
>> boards... if you're only making a few boards, and they're not that complex,
>> just hand wiring them can be faster overall than drafting a schematic and
>> laying out a PCB.
>
Same here. With a bit of care, it can even look nice.
> It's just as tedious as drawing
> a board (in real Sharpie or on CAD), and it's modifiable in case I
> missed something.
Ayup. I like to work from an Eagle layout instead of a hand drawn layout
if there's more than one chip, as it makes it easier to catch mistakes.
Bob Larter
Oh boy, that sure brings back memories! ;^)
Bob Larter
[...]
> While having a quick look at their site, I noticed this bit:
>
>> Reviewing these packages, one generally finds Windows applications
>> converted from, or inspired by DOS based user interfaces. It's clear
>> that the majority of these programs are developed ignoring the past 10
>> years of user interface design.
>
> Having recently played around with both FreePCB and KiCAD, I couldn't
> agree more.
EagleCAD is good. I got up to speed with it quite quickly.
Bob Larter
Software for very specialised markets in general is usually crap.
rebel
>Thanks guys for your suggestions. Appreciated.
>The reason for DIY in this case rather than sending them out initially
>for fabrication was it is a prototype design.
>Also there is more than one board design for the entire product.
>As performance of the product is layout dependant, I'd rather get it
>correct before sending the design out for mass production.
>Besides I might have got something wrong. It would be a tad
>embarrasing to send out an order with a mistake in it, only to end up
>with a stack of landfill. :-(
>
>Once again, thanks for your suggestions and input.
A multi-board project is even more reason to ship the job to a pcb fab. Ones
that I use treat a panel of layouts as one job for setup charge purposes, but
still separate them for me. Doing things this way has the disadvantage of
turnaround time, but two clear advantages:
1. the board matches the final job quality; and
2. it saves the hard work/mess of DIY which is especially a PITA with fine
tracks/spacings (and kludging PTH functionality) .
Just my belated 2c worth, as I have long ago given up the DIY board approach.
Jasen Betts
I've used Avery brand before, but that was for transfer onto fabric.
I ran it through the photocopier about 10 times replacing it carefully
in the tray after each run to get the same registration.
in case it's not obvious: print on the shiny side.
the stuff seems to be reusable.
JosephKK
wrote:
Are we going to discuss this again:
voltv...@gmail.com
> On Mon, 04 May 2009 20:20:51 -0700, John Larkin
>
>
>
> >On Mon, 4 May 2009 19:50:33 -0700 (PDT), Alan <devi...@iinet.net.au>
> >wrote:
>
> >>Tried using the Press-n-Peel PCB transfer film fromhttp://www.techniks.com/
Richard,
I just sent you an email but it got kicked back, so I will try to
contact you through here....
======================================
Mr. Swaby,
I just saw your May5 response to a discussion about making your own
PCB boards.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.design/browse_thread/thread/151e34f311b3f01a?hl=en#
I have designed PCBs for years and I used to run a PCB design
department. I now run my own electronic design business and I would
like to be able to fabricate my own PCB prototypes. I agree with some
of the people that ordering them from a low quantity PCB house is
nice, but as you pointed out waiting for the turn-time (or paying
expedite) is the issue.
Where are you located? Would you be willing to train me and my PCB
designer how to make your own boards with photo-etching, etc? I can
pay you. I was thinking of getting one of these "rapid prototyping"
systems, but I'm not sure...
http://www.lpkf.com/products/rapid-pcb-prototyping/index.htm
I hope to hear from you.
Respectfully,
Steve French
814.584.1220.office
814.730.0003.cell
President, Volt Vision
www.voltvision.com