But it's $275 with free shipping off Ebay.. :( mmmmmm
imo it's got a beautiful front panel design including the display.
I might buy it.
--
D from BC
British Columbia
If it's anything like it's little brother, don't waste your money, it's
awful:
http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Q1520
Note the Ohms jack is shared with the current jack, probably the most
annoying feature in the history of multimeter features.
Dave.
--
---------------------------------------------
Check out my Electronics Engineering Video Blog & Podcast:
http://www.eevblog.com
>D from BC wrote:
>>The UT804 bench multimeter..
>>It's got Farrari racing red!
>>Ebay item 270516514042
>>http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270516514042
>>
>>But it's $275 with free shipping off Ebay.. :( mmmmmm
>>
>>imo it's got a beautiful front panel design including the display.
>>
>>I might buy it.
>
>If it's anything like it's little brother, don't waste your money, it's
>awful:
>http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=Q1520
Yeah, I have one of those. The first one made a loud bang and fried itself
the first time I tried to measure mains with the USB connected to my
computer.
I was very lucky not to lose my computer or fry myself.
www.mike-warren.net/tmp/Q1520c.jpg
www.mike-warren.net/tmp/Q1520d.jpg
Also, one of the LEDs in the display started flickering after about 13
months.
>Note the Ohms jack is shared with the current jack, probably the most
>annoying feature in the history of multimeter features.
No it isn't, but having volts and ohms on separate jacks makes for a lot
of lead swapping.
The jacks are:[10A] - [uA/mA] - [Hz/Ohms/mV] - [Com] - [V]
--
- Mike
From Hong Kong? A cheap chinese knockoff? Buying something like that
takes guts!
Hey, the Keithley 2100 is a cheap Chinese knockoff!
John
The only multimeter that I'm aware of that does this (but I haven't looked
that much yet) is a Tektronix TX3, but its reference impedance is forever set
at 600ohms (audio work), whereas usually I'm after 50ohms as the reference.
Same with the analog meters I've seen that had a dBm scale.
I do realize that the difference between 50ohms and 600ohm reference
impedances is just an offset of 10.8dB, I'm just lazy enough that I don't want
to have to perform the addition. :-)
Thanks,
---Joel
Yes, the Agilent U1253A or U1252A:
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/01/24/eevblog-56-agilent-u1253a-oled-multimeter-review-teardown/
Thanks Dave, I'll check it out.
---Joel
I spotted a Keithley 2000 bench multimeter 6.5digit on ebay selling for
$850US.
For general use, I suspect this is not cheap.
Now I'm scared to buy the UT804. :(
My 2nd choice (I'll admit I do pick by aesthetics first, specs 2nd.)
is the Mastech MS8050. This also on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290393169696
I just don't like rotary switches and this design doesn't have one like
the UT804,
The MS8050 has a serious tech looking front panel that I like.
I say that cause there are bench multimeter designs out there that
remind me of kids toys.
Example:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320426191848
Looks like a toy!
11 years ago,the HP 14401A 6.5 digit DMM was only $900,ISTR.
It was a pretty good meter.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
HP34401A usually sell for $350/400 on ebay.
There's one BIN at $425.
Why is it that you want to buy cheap crap when you can buy good meters
for just a bit more?
--
Thanks,
Fred.
>Slightly off-topic, but... does anyone know of a multimeter that can read out
>in dBm and lets you specify the reference impedance?
Yup. A Keithley 2000 will do that. A beautiful meter - it's what's on my
bench. Picked it up for $300 on Ebay.
>Mike Warren <miwa-not...@or-this-csas.net.au>
> wibbled on Tuesday 02 February 2010 13:31
>
>
>>Yeah, I have one of those. The first one made a loud bang and fried itself
>>the first time I tried to measure mains with the USB connected to my
>>computer.
>>
>>I was very lucky not to lose my computer or fry myself.
>>
>>www.mike-warren.net/tmp/Q1520c.jpg
>>www.mike-warren.net/tmp/Q1520d.jpg
>>
>
>That's bad.
>
>Mike: is that a metal case the switch is bolted to? Did the instrument have
>an earth connection?
The back panel is metal but not grounded except though the USB cable.
>Just thinking that if so on both, why didn't it go bang when you applied
>mains to the probes?
It did.
--
- Mike
Thanks... given the rather poor battery life of HP's U1253A (8 hours), perhaps
it is better to just get a plug-in meter anyway.
Then get the identical U1252A. Same meter and specs but with an LCD instead
of OLED and a better battery life (36 hours).
Even the U1251A still has the selectable dB reference I believe, and that's
got 72 hours life.
Also remember you can put an Alkaline or Lithium primary 9V battery in it
which should give decent usage when used intermittently.
In your review of the U1253A, when you took it outside, it wasn't clear to
me... was there no visible display because the sunlight completely washes it
out? Or because the batteries had become completely discharged?
Any idea what the "B" models are going to have different?
Thanks,
---Joel
The display completely washes out.
Not surprising for OLED I guess, and to be fair Agilent admit in their
advertising this model is for indoor use.
That's why they still offer the LCD version too.
> Any idea what the "B" models are going to have different?
Agilent tell me it's just the case colour and some firmware upgrades,
whatever that entails.
>Mike Warren <miwa-not...@or-this-csas.net.au>
> wibbled on Wednesday 03 February 2010 13:52
>
>>The back panel is metal but not grounded except though the USB cable.
>
>That is clearly a fundamentally unsafe design - sounds to me that it should
>be defined like UK "Class I" - [extraneous conductive parts] and thus
>suitably grounded... Presumably there is a similar distinction of metal
>cased[1] vs double insulated stuff in Oz?
>
>[1] But without secondary insulation internally, to be pedantic...
The mains side of the power supply section is double insulated. The problem
comes about if the test leads are connected to a dangerous voltage, since
even
if the switch had been soldered correctly, the gap from the terminal to the
body is dangerously small, IMO.
--
- Mike
>D from BC a écrit :
He specifically says he buys by looks first. Not an engineer yet.
Metaphorically...
I want a BMW on the outside and a BMW on the inside.
(I don't think much aerodynamics where traded off for better looks.)
But since the speed limit is 60km and I'm not rich, I'm ok with less
under the hood. Pop in some mass produced asian engine and I'll be ok.
iows..I'm after the stylish DMMs without crappy guts..
If there are none, then I'll settle for ugly on the outside with
performance guts.
I'm looking at tradeoffs.
You are a lady aren't you?
Ban
Apricale, Italy
> In article <sjmkm5djo1t02larj...@4ax.com>,
> quiett...@yahoo.com says...
>>
>> On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 09:43:13 +0100, Fred Bartoli <" "> wrote:
>>
>> >D from BC a �crit :
Why is HP34401A "cheap crap"?
I had one while at TEK,and it was a great meter.
If it's "cheap crap",then what is a good 6.5 digit meter? And HOW?
>Can't help feeling that they perhaps should have fully isolated the
>measurement circuits from the computer interface (optically or
>magnetically), but then people always moan I overegg everything ;->
Everything is isolated. The only possible place for a failure was on the
AC/DC switch, which by necessity is electrically connected to the test
probe side of the meter. They should had used a switch designed for
isolation,
or perhaps a plastic lever so the case would not be connected to the
outside world.
--
- Mike