On Sat, 28 Nov 2020 12:10:32 -0600, amdx <
am...@knology.net> wrote:
>> "The smallest screw in the world"
>> <
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NerJ2yiT3xw>
>
>  This one touted as the smallest screw in the world, still has a head 
>that is 0.012" wide, so the 0.004" wide screwdriver is to small.
>
>Now, are we talk about the tip thickness?
No.  Flathead, slotted, or minus sign screw drivers are measured by
the width of the blade, not the thickness.  Sometimes, you'll see a
2nd number after the blade width, which is the shaft length.  Just to
make life difficult, some larger slotted screwdrivers include whether
the tip is flared (tapered), or parallel, which has more to do with
the diameter of the grinding wheel used to grind the tip than any
strength requirement.  In general, 4mm or smaller slotted screwdriver
tips are nearly parallel.
In the distant past, I worked for my father in his lingerie factory in
Smog Angeles.  During the 1960's, good screwdrivers were expensive. My
father favored Craftsman because he could exchange them when I fumbled
something and broke the tips.  It was easy enough to regrind a slotted
screwdriver or even a Philips driver.  However, the tip would not
last.  If I wanted it to last, I had to heat treat (harden and anneal)
the tip.  Nobody cared what they looked like, so all the tips were
always black from the used motor oil quenching[1].  Only the tips
(about 5mm) needed to be heat treated.  Eventually, tool manufacturers
got the clue and started advertising drivers with blackened tips as a
premium driver, for a premium price, of course.  The problem was that
few of them actually bothered to harden the tips.  Proto Tools
hardened them:
<
https://www.google.com/search?q=proto+screwdrivers+black+tips&tbm=isch>
but the other manufacturers simply plated or painted the tips black.
For example:
<
https://i.imgur.com/zXgVIZ3.jpg>
The same thing happened later when interchangeable tips became
popular.  The good tool manufacturers heat treated the entire driver,
while the junk was just black paint:
<
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_pB2R9KNzg>
<
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7RSfVqbjSo>
Some basics in heat treating hand tools:
"How To Heat Treat / Temper Hand Tools & More!"
<
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9lgwNp7v0E>
There's far more if you want to get into cryogenic heat treatment,
which is what the high end knife makers use.
For a tiny 0.1mm, the heat treating is critical.  Too soft, and the
screwdriver will twist in the slot.  Too hard, it will break. Properly
hardened, it will have the strength, without also being brittle.
[1]  Quenching should be in used, not new oil, so that it is full of
carbon which provides a form of surface case hardening.