Soldering Iron suggestions?
Ken S. Tucker
or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
it need to be replaced.
Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
amateur on IC's that's economical.
I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
cost is no object, if you don't mind.
Links would be appreciated.
Thanks men
Ken
Joerg
> I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
> or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
> it need to be replaced.
>
> Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
> amateur on IC's that's economical.
>
Weller WES51, plus a small assortment of tips. I have mine since a long,
long time. If you do lots of fine pitch stuff make sure you have an ETS
tip. And stay away from lead-free solder, it can quickly wreck a tip.
> I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
> cost is no object, if you don't mind.
Well, there's Metcal and all that but even though I use my irons for
business I never felt the urge to spend north of $500 on a solder station.
> Links would be appreciated.
Nowadays even those guys have them:
When you get your new iron or station don't throw away the old iron.
Sometimes, like when unsoldering SMT part, you may need both.
--
Regards, Joerg
http://www.analogconsultants.com/
"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.
Use another domain or send PM.
Tim Wescott
Are you wiping it on a sponge? If you keep tinning it and wiping it on
a damp sponge then you should only have to file it occasionally, and
then only if it isn't iron plated.
Just about any serious iron these days uses a copper tip with iron
plating -- iron dissolves in solder much less readily than copper, to
the point where the plating will essentially last the life of the tip.
If you had one of those and you filed off the plating -- oops, better
get another one.
Even the old copper tip irons don't really erode that fast; I usually
only have to file the tip of "Big Bertha", my old 1940's 100 watter,
after about 20-30 hours of cumulative use; that usually happens when I
do some big job then forget to unplug it for a day.
--
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
Jan Panteltje
<inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h3pg7...@mid.individual.net>:
I think Weller is insanely overpriced and overhyped.
I have one, it landed in the junk box after the element broke down.
I bought a Voltcraft LS50, and solder with 270 °C for 60/40.
That way the tips last much longer.
This one is a fraction of the price of weller, and 100X nicer to use,
plus much better features.
And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
Not worth the money.
Same for metcal and other overhyped stuff, who the f*ck needs an induction heated
soldering iron? I want no RF near anything I touch with a soldering iron.
But whatever you do, get one with decent adjustable temperature presets,
and a variety of tips.
John Larkin
<dyna...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
>I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
>or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
>it need to be replaced.
>
>Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
>amateur on IC's that's economical.
>
>I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
>cost is no object, if you don't mind.
Metcal. The low end stuff starts around $250, and it's worth it.
http://www.newark.com/metcal/ps-900/solder-station/dp/96M1588
The low end Metcals don't have fork tips, but a Dremel fixes that:
ftp://jjlarkin.lmi.net/Fork_Tip.JPG
John
Spehro Pefhany
Doesn't that kind of hacking away expose unplated metal resulting in
very short tip life?
GregS
>Ken S. Tucker wrote:
>> I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
>> or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
>> it need to be replaced.
>>
>> Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
>> amateur on IC's that's economical.
>>
>
>Weller WES51, plus a small assortment of tips. I have mine since a long,
>long time. If you do lots of fine pitch stuff make sure you have an ETS
>tip. And stay away from lead-free solder, it can quickly wreck a tip.
This type of iron, being small is perfect for doing a lot of soldering.
My model workstation is also 80 watts, amazing.
Holding the larger irons now feels like a bat.
I generaly see tips going dark set higher than 600 degrees. Thats make more of
a difference than anything.
Joerg
> On a sunny day (Wed, 06 Oct 2010 10:21:05 -0700) it happened Joerg
> <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h3pg7...@mid.individual.net>:
>
>> Ken S. Tucker wrote:
>>> I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
>>> or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
>>> it need to be replaced.
>>>
>>> Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
>>> amateur on IC's that's economical.
>>>
>> Weller WES51, plus a small assortment of tips. I have mine since a long,
>> long time. If you do lots of fine pitch stuff make sure you have an ETS
>> tip. And stay away from lead-free solder, it can quickly wreck a tip.
>>
>>
>>> I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
>>> cost is no object, if you don't mind.
>>
>> Well, there's Metcal and all that but even though I use my irons for
>> business I never felt the urge to spend north of $500 on a solder station.
>>
>>
>>> Links would be appreciated.
>>
>> Nowadays even those guys have them:
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286385480&sr=8-1
>>
>> When you get your new iron or station don't throw away the old iron.
>> Sometimes, like when unsoldering SMT part, you may need both.
>>
>> --
>> Regards, Joerg
>
> I think Weller is insanely overpriced and overhyped.
Nope, it's good stuff. I don't find $100 for a complete solder station
overpriced.
Does your Voltcraft thingie turn itself off if you forgot?
> I have one, it landed in the junk box after the element broke down.
> I bought a Voltcraft LS50, and solder with 270 °C for 60/40.
> That way the tips last much longer.
> This one is a fraction of the price of weller, and 100X nicer to use,
> plus much better features.
>
And how do you get a replacement tip for that if you happen to be in the
boonies, somewhere behind the Klondike?
> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
So did I.
> Not worth the money.
Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
[...]
GregS
YEP. I used to use soldering guns exclusively when I started out in the 60's.
I used to replace the tip with a piece of 12 guage wire, solid copper, but
the tip did not saty for long. I built a lot of stuff with that gun. It just was not small stuff.!!
greg
John Larkin
I only use the fork for desoldering surface-mount parts, which just
takes a few seconds. The Metcals warm up in seconds, and you can swap
tips in seconds, so I don't think I'll wear this one out soon.
John
Jan Panteltje
<inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h3t3v...@mid.individual.net>:
100$? prices are much higher here.
>Does your Voltcraft thingie turn itself off if you forgot?
Of course, long before weller even heard of that feature.
>> I have one, it landed in the junk box after the element broke down.
>> I bought a Voltcraft LS50, and solder with 270 °C for 60/40.
>> That way the tips last much longer.
>> This one is a fraction of the price of weller, and 100X nicer to use,
>> plus much better features.
>>
>
>And how do you get a replacement tip for that if you happen to be in the
>boonies, somewhere behind the Klondike?
There are no replacement tips in the boonies for any soldering iron, unless you dig for copper.
I have a box of tips for this one, and even a old weller tip will work in it,
used it several times, sometimes to drill holes in plastic.
The weller tip is a bit shorter, the part that goes into the heating element, but it works,
the old magnetstat I mean, of course the magnet does nothing in that case.
>
>> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
>
>
>So did I.
>
>
>> Not worth the money.
>
>
>Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
>like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
Exactly, weller crap.
My Votklcraft is digital with a big LCD display, up-down buttons, and 3 preset buttons.
Even has a bar that indicates the PID controller drive state, so you can see how it works
to keep the temp constant, very precise too.
Joerg
Then you ought to do something about it. While in Europe I bought a lot
of stuff from overseas.
>
>> Does your Voltcraft thingie turn itself off if you forgot?
>
> Of course, long before weller even heard of that feature.
>
I've used Voltcraft stations at friends and none had that. So what does
the LS50 cost? Tried the Conrad web site but it has deteriorated to the
category "useless".
>
>>> I have one, it landed in the junk box after the element broke down.
>>> I bought a Voltcraft LS50, and solder with 270 °C for 60/40.
>>> That way the tips last much longer.
>>> This one is a fraction of the price of weller, and 100X nicer to use,
>>> plus much better features.
>>>
>> And how do you get a replacement tip for that if you happen to be in the
>> boonies, somewhere behind the Klondike?
>
> There are no replacement tips in the boonies for any soldering iron, unless you dig for copper.
> I have a box of tips for this one, and even a old weller tip will work in it,
> used it several times, sometimes to drill holes in plastic.
> The weller tip is a bit shorter, the part that goes into the heating element, but it works,
> the old magnetstat I mean, of course the magnet does nothing in that case.
>
Then Voltcraft must have changed. In the 90's this wasn't possible, at
least not with the stations I saw and used.
>
>>> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
>>
>> So did I.
>>
>>
>>> Not worth the money.
>>
>> Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
>> like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
>
> Exactly, weller crap.
> My Votklcraft is digital with a big LCD display, up-down buttons, and 3 preset buttons.
> Even has a bar that indicates the PID controller drive state, so you can see how it works
> to keep the temp constant, very precise too.
>
I don't want no digital stuff in no iron, never no more :-)
Jan Panteltje
<inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h3ufb...@mid.individual.net>:
>>> Does your Voltcraft thingie turn itself off if you forgot?
>>
>> Of course, long before weller even heard of that feature.
>>
>
>I've used Voltcraft stations at friends and none had that. So what does
>the LS50 cost? Tried the Conrad web site but it has deteriorated to the
>category "useless".
Here a picture, it was about 67 Euro IIRC, before or around 2004 IIRC.
So say 6 years use, zero problems now.
http://www.testberichte.de/test/produkt_tests_conrad_electronic_voltcraft_ls50_p59358.html
Conrad's website is nerve wracking, especially since it has a timeout,
so even if yo udo save session i nOpera it cannot get anything back you selected.
So I wrote the part numbers down i na text file, and enter that in the search window.
This model is no longer made, but if you type 'soldeerstation' in the search window,
you will find the newer version from 50 to 125 Euro, no longer under teh Voltcraft brand,
but I was told that my LS50 Voltcraft was actually from Merklin (from the model trains),
and the wellers below that from about 200 Euro upwards for a POS.
>>
>>>> I have one, it landed in the junk box after the element broke down.
>>>> I bought a Voltcraft LS50, and solder with 270 °C for 60/40.
>>>> That way the tips last much longer.
>>>> This one is a fraction of the price of weller, and 100X nicer to use,
>>>> plus much better features.
>>>>
>>> And how do you get a replacement tip for that if you happen to be in the
>>> boonies, somewhere behind the Klondike?
>>
>> There are no replacement tips in the boonies for any soldering iron, unless you dig for copper.
>> I have a box of tips for this one, and even a old weller tip will work in it,
>> used it several times, sometimes to drill holes in plastic.
>> The weller tip is a bit shorter, the part that goes into the heating element, but it works,
>> the old magnetstat I mean, of course the magnet does nothing in that case.
>>
>
>Then Voltcraft must have changed. In the 90's this wasn't possible, at
>least not with the stations I saw and used.
>
>>
>>>> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
>>>
>>> So did I.
>>>
>>>
>>>> Not worth the money.
>>>
>>> Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
>>> like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
>>
>> Exactly, weller crap.
>> My Votklcraft is digital with a big LCD display, up-down buttons, and 3 preset buttons.
>> Even has a bar that indicates the PID controller drive state, so you can see how it works
>> to keep the temp constant, very precise too.
>>
>
>I don't want no digital stuff in no iron, never no more :-)
Works perfectly here.
Much better than that spark gap weller on of magnet system.
Joerg
> On a sunny day (Wed, 06 Oct 2010 11:45:57 -0700) it happened Joerg
> <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h3ufb...@mid.individual.net>:
>
>>>> Does your Voltcraft thingie turn itself off if you forgot?
>>> Of course, long before weller even heard of that feature.
>>>
>> I've used Voltcraft stations at friends and none had that. So what does
>> the LS50 cost? Tried the Conrad web site but it has deteriorated to the
>> category "useless".
>
> Here a picture, it was about 67 Euro IIRC, before or around 2004 IIRC.
> So say 6 years use, zero problems now.
> http://www.testberichte.de/test/produkt_tests_conrad_electronic_voltcraft_ls50_p59358.html
>
Yes, I had found that one. Very nice looking station. A bit too fancy
for my taste, I like a more utilitarian look :-)
> Conrad's website is nerve wracking, especially since it has a timeout,
> so even if yo udo save session i nOpera it cannot get anything back you selected.
> So I wrote the part numbers down i na text file, and enter that in the search window.
> This model is no longer made, but if you type 'soldeerstation' in the search window,
> you will find the newer version from 50 to 125 Euro, no longer under teh Voltcraft brand,
> but I was told that my LS50 Voltcraft was actually from Merklin (from the model trains),
> and the wellers below that from about 200 Euro upwards for a POS.
>
200 Euros? Then you guys are being ripped off. We can always get it for
around $100. Complete with pencil, tip, sponge and holder.
[...]
>>>>> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
>>>> So did I.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Not worth the money.
>>>> Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
>>>> like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
>>> Exactly, weller crap.
>>> My Votklcraft is digital with a big LCD display, up-down buttons, and 3 preset buttons.
>>> Even has a bar that indicates the PID controller drive state, so you can see how it works
>>> to keep the temp constant, very precise too.
>>>
>> I don't want no digital stuff in no iron, never no more :-)
>
> Works perfectly here.
> Much better than that spark gap weller on of magnet system.
My Weller is transistorized, no clicking contacts :-)
Jan Panteltje
<inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h412e...@mid.individual.net>:
>Jan Panteltje wrote:
>> On a sunny day (Wed, 06 Oct 2010 11:45:57 -0700) it happened Joerg
>> <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h3ufb...@mid.individual.net>:
>>
>>>>> Does your Voltcraft thingie turn itself off if you forgot?
>>>> Of course, long before weller even heard of that feature.
>>>>
>>> I've used Voltcraft stations at friends and none had that. So what does
>>> the LS50 cost? Tried the Conrad web site but it has deteriorated to the
>>> category "useless".
>>
>> Here a picture, it was about 67 Euro IIRC, before or around 2004 IIRC.
>> So say 6 years use, zero problems now.
>> http://www.testberichte.de/test/produkt_tests_conrad_electronic_voltcraft_ls50_p59358.html
>>
>
>Yes, I had found that one. Very nice looking station. A bit too fancy
>for my taste, I like a more utilitarian look :-)
>
>
>> Conrad's website is nerve wracking, especially since it has a timeout,
>> so even if yo udo save session i nOpera it cannot get anything back you selected.
>> So I wrote the part numbers down i na text file, and enter that in the search window.
>> This model is no longer made, but if you type 'soldeerstation' in the search window,
>> you will find the newer version from 50 to 125 Euro, no longer under teh Voltcraft brand,
>> but I was told that my LS50 Voltcraft was actually from Merklin (from the model trains),
>> and the wellers below that from about 200 Euro upwards for a POS.
>>
>
>200 Euros? Then you guys are being ripped off. We can always get it for
>around $100. Complete with pencil, tip, sponge and holder.
It is not easy to get a lower price from Conrad :-)
>
>[...]
>
>>>>>> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
>>>>> So did I.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Not worth the money.
>>>>> Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
>>>>> like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
>>>> Exactly, weller crap.
>>>> My Votklcraft is digital with a big LCD display, up-down buttons, and 3 preset buttons.
>>>> Even has a bar that indicates the PID controller drive state, so you can see how it works
>>>> to keep the temp constant, very precise too.
>>>>
>>> I don't want no digital stuff in no iron, never no more :-)
>>
>> Works perfectly here.
>> Much better than that spark gap weller on of magnet system.
>
>
>My Weller is transistorized, no clicking contacts :-)
Sure, I was referring to my old one, with the magnetstat,
If you were measuring some low signal stuff, every few moments there woould be that big spike,
accompanied by 'click' from the magnet.
Got me several times.
Joerg
That's why I suggested to do what I did, buy internationally.
>
>> [...]
>>
>>>>>>> And I know what I am on about, as I used weller for >30 years.
>>>>>> So did I.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Not worth the money.
>>>>>> Oh yes, they are. But the digital ones most certainly are not, they died
>>>>>> like the flies. Analog with potmeter as temp selector is best.
>>>>> Exactly, weller crap.
>>>>> My Votklcraft is digital with a big LCD display, up-down buttons, and 3 preset buttons.
>>>>> Even has a bar that indicates the PID controller drive state, so you can see how it works
>>>>> to keep the temp constant, very precise too.
>>>>>
>>>> I don't want no digital stuff in no iron, never no more :-)
>>> Works perfectly here.
>>> Much better than that spark gap weller on of magnet system.
>>
>> My Weller is transistorized, no clicking contacts :-)
>
> Sure, I was referring to my old one, with the magnetstat,
> If you were measuring some low signal stuff, every few moments there woould be that big spike,
> accompanied by 'click' from the magnet.
> Got me several times.
Sure, switching around 50W will do that. My Wellers don't do that but
when my wife fires up the heater in the tile floor mop even the monitor
image here begins a slight wobble.
Jim Thompson
wrote:
"...heater in the tile floor mop..." ???
What in the world is that?
...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, CTO | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |
I can see November from my house :-)
Joerg
Some highfalutin device from Sharp. It's a mop with exchangeable pads,
with a "bulge" in the middle of the handle that holds water. Water in
its reservoir is heated up, press button, unit makes an evil hiss,
sprays it onto the floor and steam rises off the tiles. Then you move
the unit like a vacuum and the pad mops up the water along with the
dirt. Once in a while you swap the pad. At the end you rinse the pads
out and let them dry.
I didn't know these existed until a year ago.
Jim Thompson
wrote:
My Mexicans don't have extension cords :-)
Jan Panteltje
<To-Email-Use-Th...@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote in
<0uppa65v9gg9ka4mt...@4ax.com>:
Probably a ball on a chain to their feet.
>| James E.Thompson, repugblian
Michael A. Terrell
GregS wrote:
>
> YEP. I used to use soldering guns exclusively when I started out in the 60's.
> I used to replace the tip with a piece of 12 guage wire, solid copper, but
> the tip did not saty for long. I built a lot of stuff with that gun. It just was not small stuff.!!
Did you tip it properly, and wipe off the old flux when you finished?
--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.
Ecnerwal
<22b7e21c-f4d7-4715...@i13g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
"Ken S. Tucker" <dyna...@vianet.on.ca> wrote:
I've been using a Weller WTCPN for 3 decades or so. Not that you'll
probably find one for sale, but there might be used ones available
somewhere. Temp control by tip change, very old fashioned. Connections
from the base to the iron can be unreliable on things this old - I'll
probably have to replace that connector one of these days.
Mind, depending what exactly "your ole iron" is, the solution to your
troubles could be a easy as a new tip - I've got 30 years on the base
and handle, but not so much on the tips with that old Weller - they are
still available for $5 or less.
Did a bunch of surface mount work with it a few years ago. Used the
funds from that moonlighting job to buy a hot air rework station that
happens to include a regular iron (with dial temp control) as well -
didn't really feel up to paying for Hakko, so I got an Aoyue 968
(chinese ebay Hakko knock-off), and that type of work in the microscopic
market I inhabit (NW Mass) has not turned up since. I've used it for
various home projects and it seems to be an OK iron, but it hasn't
really gotten a workout.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Charlie E.
wrote:
>Jim Thompson wrote:
>> "...heater in the tile floor mop..." ???
>>
>> What in the world is that?
>>
>
>Some highfalutin device from Sharp. It's a mop with exchangeable pads,
>with a "bulge" in the middle of the handle that holds water. Water in
>its reservoir is heated up, press button, unit makes an evil hiss,
>sprays it onto the floor and steam rises off the tiles. Then you move
>the unit like a vacuum and the pad mops up the water along with the
>dirt. Once in a while you swap the pad. At the end you rinse the pads
>out and let them dry.
>
>I didn't know these existed until a year ago.
Jeorg,
How is that working? And, is it recommended for laminate floors?'
We are always looking for a better way to clean all that wood. The
roomba does ok, but doesn't get it 'polished' like we would like!
Charlie
Tim Wescott
> In article
> <22b7e21c-f4d7-4715...@i13g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
>
> ... in the microscopic market I inhabit (NW Mass) ...
>
I read that, and because there's a faulty circuit in my brain that
translates "West" into "close to salt water" I put you in Lowell and
said "microscopic?!?"
That used to screw me up royally when I moved to the I-495 corridor from
Oregon. I'd constantly be driving inland when we were on our way to the
coast, or toward Boston when we were supposed to go hiking on Mt.
Wachusett. My wife would snicker at me all the time about it.
Then I managed to drag her back here, and we found out that _She's_
hardwired to think of "East" as "close to salt water", so we'd set out
for the beach and end up pointed at Eastern Oregon...
Joerg
> On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 13:52:48 -0700, Joerg <inv...@invalid.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> Jim Thompson wrote:
>
>>> "...heater in the tile floor mop..." ???
>>>
>>> What in the world is that?
>>>
>> Some highfalutin device from Sharp. It's a mop with exchangeable pads,
>> with a "bulge" in the middle of the handle that holds water. Water in
>> its reservoir is heated up, press button, unit makes an evil hiss,
>> sprays it onto the floor and steam rises off the tiles. Then you move
>> the unit like a vacuum and the pad mops up the water along with the
>> dirt. Once in a while you swap the pad. At the end you rinse the pads
>> out and let them dry.
>>
>> I didn't know these existed until a year ago.
>
> Jeorg,
> How is that working? And, is it recommended for laminate floors?'
>
I seriously doubt it because it gets blistering hot. Laminate would
probably warp and buckle after a while, worst case some of the steam
gets in somewhere. On tile it works great. But the big cleaning is done
with a Hoover tile scrubber, the kind with the rotating brushes.
> We are always looking for a better way to clean all that wood. The
> roomba does ok, but doesn't get it 'polished' like we would like!
>
No idea if laminate would tolerate a wood floor buffer. I'd ask the
manufacturer.
Rich Grise
Want cheap?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758&filterName=Category
They might have other units like that - I quit going into their storew
when they started putting racist hip-hop hate noise on the muzak.
Want High-buck quality? Weller.
I've also heard of some other brand that people heartily endorse - I have
no opinion on that one, because I've never used it. But the Weller WTCP
series has never failed me. :-)
Cheers!
Rich
Rich Grise
> On 10/06/2010 10:12 AM, Ken S. Tucker wrote:
>> I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
>> or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
>> it need to be replaced.
>>
>> Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
>> amateur on IC's that's economical.
>>
>> I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
>> cost is no object, if you don't mind.
>> Links would be appreciated.
>
> Are you wiping it on a sponge? If you keep tinning it and wiping it on
> a damp sponge then you should only have to file it occasionally, and
> then only if it isn't iron plated.
>
> Just about any serious iron these days uses a copper tip with iron
> plating -- iron dissolves in solder much less readily than copper, to
> the point where the plating will essentially last the life of the tip.
> If you had one of those and you filed off the plating -- oops, better
> get another one.
>
> Even the old copper tip irons don't really erode that fast; I usually
> only have to file the tip of "Big Bertha", my old 1940's 100 watter,
> after about 20-30 hours of cumulative use; that usually happens when I
> do some big job then forget to unplug it for a day.
I had a real el cheapo soldering pencil once, and filed the tips
regularly, but they were like thirty-nine cents for a two-pack. Well,
"regularly", maybe once a month. A tip could last awhile, depending on
what I was soldering.
Cheers!
Rich
Sofa Slug
> I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
> or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
> it need to be replaced.
>
> Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
> amateur on IC's that's economical.
>
> I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
> cost is no object, if you don't mind.
> Links would be appreciated.
> Ken
Metcal - as others have pointed out - is great if money is not an issue.
If so, then (IMHO)...
Best:
-----
Haako 936
<http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Soldering-Station-936-Iron/dp/B000ARU9HW>
Edsyn 951SX
<http://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Soldering-951SX-Temperature-Controlled/dp/B00012YSG4>
Very Good:
----------
Weller WESD51,WES51
<http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Weller+WESD51&x=11&y=26>
OK:
---
Xytronic Auto-Temp 379
<http://www.assemblyoutfitters.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=2163>
Weller WLC100
<http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC>
Jan Panteltje
<inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h412e...@mid.individual.net>:
>
>My Weller is transistorized, no clicking contacts :-)
I see that you can still order my soldering iron from ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.de/MSrklin-70910-Programmierbare-L-ation-L-lben-Neu-/330479620227
Joerg
48W heater is adequate, and the station looks nice. But the solder
"pencil" seems a bit klunky. Thick like on my old Weller WECP that dates
back to the 80's and 90's. The pencil on the WES51 is a lot more slick.
Jan Panteltje
<inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h6vcq...@mid.individual.net>:
>Jan Panteltje wrote:
>> On a sunny day (Wed, 06 Oct 2010 12:30:16 -0700) it happened Joerg
>> <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h412e...@mid.individual.net>:
>>> My Weller is transistorized, no clicking contacts :-)
>>
>> I see that you can still order my soldering iron from ebay:
>> http://cgi.ebay.de/MSrklin-70910-Programmierbare-L-ation-L-lben-Neu-/330479620227
>
>
>48W heater is adequate, and the station looks nice. But the solder
>"pencil" seems a bit klunky. Thick like on my old Weller WECP that dates
>back to the 80's and 90's. The pencil on the WES51 is a lot more slick.
Yes the cable looks heavy, but really I soldered a lot with it,
and it is nice to work with.
But that model won't work for 110V people I think.
Joerg
> On a sunny day (Thu, 07 Oct 2010 15:20:03 -0700) it happened Joerg
> <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h6vcq...@mid.individual.net>:
>
>> Jan Panteltje wrote:
>>> On a sunny day (Wed, 06 Oct 2010 12:30:16 -0700) it happened Joerg
>>> <inv...@invalid.invalid> wrote in <8h412e...@mid.individual.net>:
>>>> My Weller is transistorized, no clicking contacts :-)
>>> I see that you can still order my soldering iron from ebay:
>>> http://cgi.ebay.de/MSrklin-70910-Programmierbare-L-ation-L-lben-Neu-/330479620227
>>
>> 48W heater is adequate, and the station looks nice. But the solder
>> "pencil" seems a bit klunky. Thick like on my old Weller WECP that dates
>> back to the 80's and 90's. The pencil on the WES51 is a lot more slick.
>
> Yes the cable looks heavy, but really I soldered a lot with it,
> and it is nice to work with.
I didn't mean the cable, that is about this size on the Weller as well.
I meant the bulky handle of the pencil.
> But that model won't work for 110V people I think.
>
No problem, I've got 230V here at the lab. With Schuko outlets :-)
Clifford Heath
> On a sunny day (Thu, 07 Oct 2010 15:20:03 -0700) it happened Joerg
>>> http://cgi.ebay.de/MSrklin-70910-Programmierbare-L-ation-L-lben-Neu-/330479620227
>> 48W heater is adequate, and the station looks nice. But the solder
>> "pencil" seems a bit klunky. Thick like on my old Weller WECP that dates
>> back to the 80's and 90's. The pencil on the WES51 is a lot more slick.
> Yes the cable looks heavy, but really I soldered a lot with it,
> and it is nice to work with.
Is the lead silicone (or other burn-proof)?
Couldn't see what tips it came with, or where to buy others.
Jan Panteltje
<n...@spam.please.net> wrote in
<4caeb1e5$0$25362$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au>:
I dunno, but after 6 years or more I see no markings on it whatsoever.
It feels like some sort of rubber, coudl be silicone.
No rubber smell though.
Ken S. Tucker
> On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 10:12:00 -0700, Ken S. Tucker wrote:
> > I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
> > or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
> > it need to be replaced.
>
> > Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
> > amateur on IC's that's economical.
>
> > I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
> > cost is no object, if you don't mind.
> > Links would be appreciated.
>
> They might have other units like that - I quit going into their storew
> when they started putting racist hip-hop hate noise on the muzak.
>
> Want High-buck quality? Weller.
> I've also heard of some other brand that people heartily endorse - I have
> no opinion on that one, because I've never used it. But the Weller WTCP
> series has never failed me. :-)
>
> Cheers!
> Rich
Testing.
Ken S. Tucker
> I need to file the tip of me ole solder iron every 15 minutes
> or so to get it shiny, PITA but it snuck up on me, so I guess
> it need to be replaced.
>
> Anywho, I'd like recommendations for an Iron good for an
> amateur on IC's that's economical.
>
> I'd also like recommendations on what is the best when
> cost is no object, if you don't mind.
> Links would be appreciated.
> Ken
Gents, guess what, I have something called,
Dyshidrosis,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyshidrosis
it's a casual from Ni dust,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel#Toxicity
I filed my soldering iron tip a lot and didn't think much about
the dust, but it turns out I have an allergy to the dust.
Just a caution to you guys if ya get some bumps on your
skin, the cure is drinking, also scratching feels like an
orgasm, really, that's how itchy it can get.
But really take care if you note any bumps on you hands.
Ken
Leon
a new Weller or whatever. I use an older STSS power unit I bought with
the later MX-500 handpiece and cartridges - it cost me £125 including
six cartridges. The latest MX-5000 accessories should work with the
STSS, as well. I got a spare STSS on Ebay for £70.