Obtaining a schematic for a Sorensen Power Supply
Mitchell Jones
$50, and find myself needing to obtain a schematic to facilitate repairs.
Does anyone have such a schematic or know where I could obtain one? (The
serial number on the unit is 1128.) An owner's manual would also be nice.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
--Mitchell Jones
===========================================================
Geoff Drayson
In Article<mjones-1109...@jump-tnt-0070.customer.jump.net>,
<mjo...@jump.net> writes:
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> From: mjo...@jump.net (Mitchell Jones)
> Newsgroups:
You can get Service manuals (Full Schematics included) direct from Sorensen.
Expect to pay for them, but since you got that DCR 300-8A at such a good
price, another $50 for the service manaul might not break the bank
We bought a DCR 300-8A a few years ago for about the same price... shipping
was more than the cost of the unit !!! (They are VERY HEAVY .. as you well
know)
Geoff
sci.electronics.equipment,sci.electronics.components,sci.electronics.misc,sci.e
lectronics.repair
Harry H Conover
: I recently purchased a 1960's vintage Sorensen DCR 300-8A power supply for
: $50, and find myself needing to obtain a schematic to facilitate repairs.
: Does anyone have such a schematic or know where I could obtain one? (The
: serial number on the unit is 1128.) An owner's manual would also be nice.
: Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
: --Mitchell Jones
Mitch, they are wonderful supplies, but best of luck to you on getting
a schematic let alone a manual. I had the 15A version for about 20 years,
but could never get a schematic for it (even while working at Raytheon who
owns Sorensen), so about a month or so ago it went into the trash (having
been zapped while attempting to charge a car battery that was connected
backwards! Yeah, I know, Duhh!).
It's worth the effort to salvage if you can, but getting any information
at all on those suckers is, at least in my experience, pretty difficult,
and trying to reverse engineer one of these guys is pretty tough as well.
Rest assured that if you can come up with a schematic and manual on this
critter, having thrown mine out I'll be kicking myself for a long time
because, when working, they are truly fine power supplies.
Harry C.
John Lundgren
> Harry C.
I've got some bits and pieces of Sorensen PSs that i've picked up at
garage sales, etc. The only one that's working is just a subchassis
with a big honking transformer, a 25A FW bridge and a big filter cap on
it. This is what I use to power the 100W, 28V soldering iron that I
also picked up for a buck at a garage sale. It's the only high powered
soldering iron I have, and I actually used it the other night, first
time in at least a year.
I had to fix a power strip where the 14GA wire was soldered to the
circuit breaker, and the production line must have been running fast
that day because the joint was a cold solder joint. That can really
tick off people when they have something important, like a network hub,
plugged into a power strip. Intermittent loss of power means 24 or more
users get bit.
I haven't had that PS on in a long time, but I just plugged it in and
the old soldering iron just started to heat up. The other pieces of
Sorensen PSs that I have were cannibalized for parts. They were from
back in the days when all the transistors were germanium, and the power
transistors were really odd shapes. Like there is one that's somethat
like a TO-3, but it is more square than diamond shaped, and has four
corners instead of two, with screw holes in all 4 corners. Weird. Also
a transistor that looks like a TO-66 squished, sort of oval shaped.
Weirder yet!
Anyone need some 2N1016Bs? Got a couple of those still in the box. I
think they're silicon, 150W and a hundred volts or so. Stud mounts,
like a rectifier. Gold plated and it's so pretty that I scanned it in
one day on the scanner. Neat.
--
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Tony Williams
<URL:mailto:con...@tiac.net> wrote:
[snip]
> It's worth the effort to salvage if you can, but getting any information
> at all on those suckers is, at least in my experience, pretty difficult,
> and trying to reverse engineer one of these guys is pretty tough as well.
It's not that difficult surely? My DC300-B (2.7KW) came with a
full service manual, inc all circuit diagrams.
Yes, they are good supplies, two problems though..... very
(very!) heavy, and they take about 50 seconds to come up
when under remote control.
--
Tony Williams.
Mitchell Jones
<to...@ledelec.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In article <6terov$5...@news-central.tiac.net>, Harry H Conover
> <URL:mailto:con...@tiac.net> wrote:
> [snip]
> > It's worth the effort to salvage if you can, but getting any information
> > at all on those suckers is, at least in my experience, pretty difficult,
> > and trying to reverse engineer one of these guys is pretty tough as well.
>
> It's not that difficult surely? My DC300-B (2.7KW) came with a
> full service manual, inc all circuit diagrams.
***{The B series is the modern vintage, with IC's and advanced stuff. The
A series is older. My particular unit (serial number 1128) was
manufactured in the 1960's according to an e-mail from Sorensen, and they
no longer have any records of how they were built (schematics), or any
manuals. It's a bit of a bummer, really. In addition, I have discovered
that parts are also virtually nonexistent: most of the components which
were used then aren't even manufactured today, so it looks like I will
have to buy two or three more of these old timers (Sorensen DCR 300-8A's,
or 6A's, 10A's, etc.) to scavenge for parts. If there is anybody else out
there who is about to cart one of these old beasties off to the dump,
please send me an e-mail. Maybe we can work out a deal. --Mitchell
Jones}***
>
> Yes, they are good supplies, two problems though..... very
> (very!) heavy, and they take about 50 seconds to come up
> when under remote control.
===========================================================
John Lundgren
[snip]
> ***{The B series is the modern vintage, with IC's and advanced stuff. The
> A series is older. My particular unit (serial number 1128) was
> manufactured in the 1960's according to an e-mail from Sorensen, and they
> no longer have any records of how they were built (schematics), or any
> manuals. It's a bit of a bummer, really. In addition, I have discovered
> that parts are also virtually nonexistent: most of the components which
> were used then aren't even manufactured today, so it looks like I will
> have to buy two or three more of these old timers (Sorensen DCR 300-8A's,
> or 6A's, 10A's, etc.) to scavenge for parts. If there is anybody else out
> there who is about to cart one of these old beasties off to the dump,
> please send me an e-mail. Maybe we can work out a deal. --Mitchell
> Jones}***
Well, if you're serious about repairing this PS, you should do it
right. Keep and use the big stuff, transformer, rectifier and filter
caps. Replace the transistors on the heatsinks with some decent heavy
duty Silicon ones like 2N3772s. Then replace the PC board with one that
holds the lowly LM723, available at Radio Scrap. You can find
schematics in the data sheets for this chip.
Harold M. Harvey
John Lundgren <NOlundg...@mail.rancho.cc.ca.us> wrote:
>Mitchell Jones wrote:
>[snip]
>
>> ***{The B series is the modern vintage, with IC's and advanced stuff. The
>> A series is older. My particular unit (serial number 1128) was
>> manufactured in the 1960's according to an e-mail from Sorensen, and they
>> no longer have any records of how they were built (schematics), or any
>> manuals. It's a bit of a bummer, really. In addition, I have discovered
>> that parts are also virtually nonexistent: most of the components which
>> were used then aren't even manufactured today, so it looks like I will
>> have to buy two or three more of these old timers (Sorensen DCR 300-8A's,
>> or 6A's, 10A's, etc.) to scavenge for parts. If there is anybody else out
>> there who is about to cart one of these old beasties off to the dump,
>> please send me an e-mail. Maybe we can work out a deal. --Mitchell
>> Jones}***
>
>Well, if you're serious about repairing this PS, you should do it
>right. Keep and use the big stuff, transformer, rectifier and filter
>caps. Replace the transistors on the heatsinks with some decent heavy
>duty Silicon ones like 2N3772s. Then replace the PC board with one that
>holds the lowly LM723, available at Radio Scrap. You can find
>schematics in the data sheets for this chip.
>
long time ago.
Harold