Compact Fluorescent Bulbs Shock When Unplugged
Globemaker
unplugged. The lamp fell to the floor and broke. I unplugged it before
cleaning up the broken glass. When I tried to unscrew the bulb base
from the socket, a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
WARNING! Compact fluorescent lightbulbs are dangerous when not plugged
in . Tell the world, tell the department stores. Not Safe to Use. They
cause radio interference. They buzz in the audio spectrum using air
waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do not buy them. 2000 volts are
stored in a capacitor.
Tim Wescott
And they cause members of the Great Unwashed to post spam to newsgroups,
too.
Tobias Gadelha
I once also took an electrical shock but do not know if I had to 2000V
whit3rd
> I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
In related news, shuffling across a carpet causes a high voltage,
and touching a light switch can produce pain as a result...
No CF lamp or associated electronics stores enough energy
to cause a hazard; a switched-off light fixture, on the
other hand, usually has ONE unswitched wire going
straight into the wall socket.
Bret Cahill
> > unplugged. ...a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
>
> In related news, shuffling across a carpet causes a high voltage,
> and touching a light switch can produce pain as a result...
>
> No CF lamp or associated electronics stores enough energy
> to cause a hazard; a switched-off light fixture, on the
> other hand, usually has ONE unswitched wire going
> straight into the wall socket.
Most are more concerned about the mercury.
Bret Cahill
Globemaker
I did not measure the 2000 volts. Search engines brought me a figure
of 1200v on start up and 700v running. It was much more powerful than
carpet static. Maybe a carpet has 23 pf and a CFL has 230000 pf.
Tobias Gadelha
When I got a shock, I was opening the electrical circuit of CF after than operation and I touched on the circuit.
Of course than I got a shock, but never shock on the external poles
Grant
And why is it they're unconcerned about the mercury in the normal
fluorescent tubes we've been using for decades now?
There's movie clips of people running or riding through hundreds of
standard 4' tubes without a care about the mercury in them.
Grant.
Bret Cahill
> >> > unplugged. ...a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
>
> >> In related news, shuffling across a carpet causes a high voltage,
> >> and touching a light switch can produce pain as a result...
>
> >> No CF lamp or associated electronics stores enough energy
> >> to cause a hazard; a switched-off light fixture, on the
> >> other hand, usually has ONE unswitched wire going
> >> straight into the wall socket.
>
> >Most are more concerned about the mercury.
>
> And why is it they're unconcerned about the mercury in the normal
> fluorescent tubes we've been using for decades now?
Actually they are. I know it's fun but you aren't supposed to break
the tubes by tossing them into the trash. You take the unbroken tubes
to a designated disposal location.
The difference between tubes and CFLs is that the tubes aren't nearly
as as popular as screw in bulbs in residential lighting.
> There's movie clips of people running or riding through hundreds of
> standard 4' tubes without a care about the mercury in them.
There isn't a release if you don't break the tubes.
Bret Cahill
Phil Allison
"Globemaker"
I did not measure the 2000 volts.
** I bet you didn't.
Search engines brought me a figure
of 1200v on start up and 700v running.
** Those figures could be right for a large ** CCFL ** .
A "Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp " - as found in most LCD screens for
PCs and home TV.
Got nothing at all to do with a *CFL* .
Wanker.
.... Phil
Searcher7
Well with all the moving around of lamps and such on my bench and
other places I tend to break a lot of them, so considering how
expensive the good ones are to save money I might as well go back to
regular bulbs. :-)
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Michael A. Terrell
"k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote:
>
> On Sat, 28 May 2011 21:40:28 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7 ?Sear...@mail.con2.com?
> wrote:
>
> ?On May 28, 5:41 am, Globemaker ?alanfolms...@cabanova.com? wrote:
> ?? I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
> ?? unplugged. The lamp fell to the floor and broke. I unplugged it before
> ?? cleaning up the broken glass. When I tried to unscrew the bulb base
> ?? from the socket, a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
> ?? WARNING! Compact fluorescent lightbulbs are dangerous when not plugged
> ?? in . Tell the world, tell the department stores. Not Safe to Use. They
> ?? cause radio interference. They buzz in the audio spectrum using air
> ?? waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do not buy them. 2000 volts are
> ?? stored in a capacitor.
> ?
> ?Well with all the moving around of lamps and such on my bench and
> ?other places I tend to break a lot of them, so considering how
> ?expensive the good ones are to save money I might as well go back to
> ?regular bulbs. :-)
>
> Stock up! I am.
How many? Or are you afraid Dimbulb will try to steal them?
--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.
Globemaker
<k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
> On Sat, 28 May 2011 21:40:28 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com>
Incandescent bulbs are being phased out in Europe, Brazil, and
Australia. USA is a war criminal due to mass murders in
Iraq
Afghanistan
Libya
Pakistan
Panama
Somalia
Vietnam
Cherokee
See UN resolution 3314 concerning War of Aggression
See this link about light bulbs being phased out:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase-out_of_incandescent_light_bulbs
Hording is not fair.
John Fields
---
Wording is important.
--
JF
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Couple hundred, now. I buy a few packs when I'm in Lowes. DimBulb isn't
bright enough.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
<alanfo...@cabanova.com> wrote:
Another moron in the competition for the DimBulb-Slowman award.
Michael A. Terrell
"k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote:
>
> On Sun, 29 May 2011 02:46:06 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
>
> ?
> ?"k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote:
> ??
> ?? Stock up! I am.
> ?
> ? How many? Or are you afraid Dimbulb will try to steal them?
>
> Couple hundred, now. I buy a few packs when I'm in Lowes. DimBulb isn't
> bright enough.
He's low enough to take them, though.
I have over 100, not counting the 25 W Halogen and some specialty
bulbs for things like the lights at my gate and some in ceiling fans.
Walmart & Dollar Tree have them for a good price, too. With my current
health, I should have enough for the rest of my life.
BTW, it pisses me off that you can't find decent 4' 40W tubes
anymore. They used to be 99 cents anywhere you looked. Now all you can
find are those crappy 32W bulbs that don't work in a lot of fixtures.
Bret Cahill
> unplugged.
CFLs are just a transitional device. In a few short years LED bulbs
will be cheaper, safer and more energy efficient than CFLs.
Bret Cahill
Phil Hobbs
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
http://electrooptical.net
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
<mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>"k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 29 May 2011 02:46:06 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
>> ?mike.t...@earthlink.net? wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> ?"k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" wrote:
>> ??
>> ?? Stock up! I am.
>> ?
>> ? How many? Or are you afraid Dimbulb will try to steal them?
>>
>> Couple hundred, now. I buy a few packs when I'm in Lowes. DimBulb isn't
>> bright enough.
>
>
> He's low enough to take them, though.
How many DimBulbs does it take...
> I have over 100, not counting the 25 W Halogen and some specialty
>bulbs for things like the lights at my gate and some in ceiling fans.
>Walmart & Dollar Tree have them for a good price, too. With my current
>health, I should have enough for the rest of my life.
Specialty bulbs are not *supposed* on the banned list. We have something like
50 bulbs in various fixtures in the house. All of the bulbs are part of the
look of the fixture (visible from anywhere in the room) so CFLs or LEDs aren't
going to work. They're not on much (have only blown a couple in the ceiling
fan on the back porch) so there is nothing to "save" by using more efficient
lights. CLFs are ugly, too.
> BTW, it pisses me off that you can't find decent 4' 40W tubes
>anymore. They used to be 99 cents anywhere you looked. Now all you can
>find are those crappy 32W bulbs that don't work in a lot of fixtures.
I can still find T-12 bulbs but you're right, T-8s are crap. I have a couple
of new fixtures that won't light reliably. I've changed tubes a couple of
times. No joy.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
<pcdhSpamM...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>Bret Cahill wrote:
>>> I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
>>> unplugged.
>>
>> CFLs are just a transitional device. In a few short years LED bulbs
>> will be cheaper, safer and more energy efficient than CFLs.
>>
>>
>> Bret Cahill
>>
>>
>Looked at the price of europium lately?
Is that the Europeon version of the Hopeium the Democrats have been smoking?
Michael A. Terrell
They are almost as useless as the dimmie types screaming for the
change to CFL, when I'm already using regular fluorescent lights.
Ecnerwal
"k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" <k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
> I can still find T-12 bulbs but you're right, T-8s are crap. I have a couple
> of new fixtures that won't light reliably. I've changed tubes a couple of
> times. No joy.
Change the ballast once, and T-8's work perfectly well (better than the
T-12's they replaced in every fixture I've done so far.) You can get a
decent ballast while you are at it, which is nearly impossible with new
fixtures short of severely overpriced ones.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.
Baron
> In article <ufi5u6ht8r8pu4j4h...@4ax.com>,
> "k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" <k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
>
>> I can still find T-12 bulbs but you're right, T-8s are crap. I have
>> a couple
>> of new fixtures that won't light reliably. I've changed tubes a
>> couple of
>> times. No joy.
>
> Change the ballast once, and T-8's work perfectly well (better than
> the T-12's they replaced in every fixture I've done so far.) You can
> get a decent ballast while you are at it, which is nearly impossible
> with new fixtures short of severely overpriced ones.
>
I've just installed four 5" T8 fittings ! One is visibly much dimmer
than the other three. Its also much heavier !
It didn't dawn on me at first, but the dim fitting has a conventional
ballast choke, capacitor and starter, whilst the other three have
electronic ballasts and a plastic cap over where the starter should be.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
<MyName...@ReplaceWithMyVices.Com.invalid> wrote:
>In article <ufi5u6ht8r8pu4j4h...@4ax.com>,
> "k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz" <k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
>
>> I can still find T-12 bulbs but you're right, T-8s are crap. I have a couple
>> of new fixtures that won't light reliably. I've changed tubes a couple of
>> times. No joy.
>
>Change the ballast once, and T-8's work perfectly well (better than the
>T-12's they replaced in every fixture I've done so far.) You can get a
>decent ballast while you are at it, which is nearly impossible with new
>fixtures short of severely overpriced ones.
If I have to replace the ballasts in new fixtures, they *are* crap. Sorry.
Don Klipstein
wrote mostly:
> I have over 100, not counting the 25 W Halogen and some specialty
>bulbs for things like the lights at my gate and some in ceiling fans.
>Walmart & Dollar Tree have them for a good price, too. With my current
>health, I should have enough for the rest of my life.
The incandescents that I saw at Dollar Tree are of the Sunbeam brand.
The 100 watt ones only produce 11 something hundred lumens. 75 watt 750
hour ones made by GE, Philips or Sylvania, even if store brand ones,
produce 1170-1210 lumens, as low as 1150 for soft white.
> BTW, it pisses me off that you can't find decent 4' 40W tubes
>anymore. They used to be 99 cents anywhere you looked. Now all you can
>find are those crappy 32W bulbs that don't work in a lot of fixtures.
Home Depot has true 40 watt Philips Ultralume fluorescents. The cool
white color is referred to by its nominal color temperature in Kelvin,
4100. Its color rendering index is 82. Light output is not compromised
in comparison to old tech cool white. They cost a few dollars, though.
--
- Don Klipstein (d...@misty.com)
Don Klipstein
My experience is that T12 fixtures with "residential grade" ballasts are
crappier than any T8 fixture I ever saw with a ballast made after 1998 or
2000 or so.
Don Klipstein
Bret Cahill wrote:
My bet is that it will take a lot more than a few years for LED bulbs to
be cheaper than CFLs.
Don Klipstein
> I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
> unplugged. The lamp fell to the floor and broke. I unplugged it before
> cleaning up the broken glass. When I tried to unscrew the bulb base
> from the socket, a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
> WARNING! Compact fluorescent lightbulbs are dangerous when not plugged
> in . Tell the world, tell the department stores. Not Safe to Use. They
> cause radio interference. They buzz in the audio spectrum using air
> waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do not buy them. 2000 volts are
> stored in a capacitor.
The 2000 volt figure is wrong. It's about 170 volts for the filter
capacitor. The rectifier won't let it shock through the base contacts.
And, in usual CFL electronic ballasts, the ends of the tubing
are not across it. Otherwise, the tubing would get DC, which CFL ballast
design avoids. Passing DC through a CFL would cause one end to be
depleted of mercury and go dim.
There may be a ballast capacitor in CFLs with electronic ballasts, and
it may have a couple or few hundred volts across it if the tubing breaks
during operation, but its capacitance is only nanofarads - minor shock
possible if you touch both electrodes of the tube without the unit being
powered.
Ecnerwal
wrote:
> I've just installed four 5" T8 fittings ! One is visibly much dimmer
> than the other three. Its also much heavier !
>
> It didn't dawn on me at first, but the dim fitting has a conventional
> ballast choke, capacitor and starter, whilst the other three have
> electronic ballasts and a plastic cap over where the starter should be.
While you seem to have tripped across crappy old .vs. new tech
differences in ballasts, you can also get identical size/shape/weight
electronic ballasts that will put out more or less light from the same
bulb (using more or less watts to do so, which is part of why they are
offered.) There will be a difference in the label, typically something
like H-N-L for high/normal/low light output. Typically 115/100/77% of
rated output. It only gets annoying when you find that it's easy to find
(say) a 4-bulb low ballast at a reasonable price, and the same ballast
in high (not to be confused with the HO ballasts/bulbs that are more
like twice the wattage and output and need different bulbs) is hard to
find and twice the price when you do find it. Been there, done that.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
wrote:
I've never had an issue with a T12, though likely haven't bought more than one
or two since 2000.
Globemaker
example calculations show 1.4 microfarads at 700 volts is allowable
for human safety:
.5 c v v = energy
.5 20 nf 700v 700v = 49 e-4 j = 5mJ
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Static_electricity
IEC 479-2:1987 states that a discharge with energy greater than 5000
mJ is a direct serious risk to human health. IEC 60065 states that
consumer products cannot discharge more than 350 mJ into a person.
therefore the example maximum allowed can be:
.5 x 1.4uf x 700v x 700v = 343 mJ = energy limit situation
but what is the actual capacitance in CFL?
Phil Allison
"Globemaker = RABID IMBECILE "
> The 2000 volt figure is wrong.
** Absolutely wrong.
It relates to the ignition voltage of CCFLs.
but what is the actual capacitance in CFL?
** The only capacitor sometimes fitted to the base connections of a CFL is a
suppression cap of about 47nF.
After a CFL is removed from its socket, it may have a residual charge
voltage up to 175 volts ( USA ) and 345 volts in most of the world.
Gives one a nip like a pin prick.
Shame about the GREAT BIG PRICK who is wasting our time here.
.... Phil
Michael A. Terrell
Don Klipstein wrote:
>
> In <7tudnRgYxqc04H_Q...@earthlink.com>, Michael A. Terrell
> wrote mostly:
>
> > I have over 100, not counting the 25 W Halogen and some specialty
> >bulbs for things like the lights at my gate and some in ceiling fans.
> >Walmart & Dollar Tree have them for a good price, too. With my current
> >health, I should have enough for the rest of my life.
>
> The incandescents that I saw at Dollar Tree are of the Sunbeam brand.
> The 100 watt ones only produce 11 something hundred lumens. 75 watt 750
> hour ones made by GE, Philips or Sylvania, even if store brand ones,
> produce 1170-1210 lumens, as low as 1150 for soft white.
The 100W are only used in clip on work lites in the shop where they
get banged around a lot. The lower output lamps are a bit more rugged
and don't burn out when you bump the lamp holder as fast as some other
brands. I use mostly 60 or 75 W bulbs in incandescent.
> > BTW, it pisses me off that you can't find decent 4' 40W tubes
> >anymore. They used to be 99 cents anywhere you looked. Now all you can
> >find are those crappy 32W bulbs that don't work in a lot of fixtures.
>
> Home Depot has true 40 watt Philips Ultralume fluorescents. The cool
> white color is referred to by its nominal color temperature in Kelvin,
> 4100. Its color rendering index is 82. Light output is not compromised
> in comparison to old tech cool white. They cost a few dollars, though.
Most of the time I don't find what i need at Home Depot. Their
inventory is usually low, or stuck up on a top shelf that requires a
forklift to get down, which results in an hour or two wait. I have
found what I was after exactly once at HD in the last two years.
Baron
I complained to the distributor today about the dim fitting !
They have, grudgingly, agreed to replace it.
Result (*)
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Don Klipstein
I SNIP from here on basis of capacitor values and voltages that I did
not find among the many dissected CFLs that I have experienced.
Enough said?
Tim Wescott
> I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
> unplugged. The lamp fell to the floor and broke. I unplugged it before
> cleaning up the broken glass. When I tried to unscrew the bulb base
> from the socket, a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
> WARNING! Compact fluorescent lightbulbs are dangerous when not plugged
> in . Tell the world, tell the department stores. Not Safe to Use. They
> cause radio interference. They buzz in the audio spectrum using air
> waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do not buy them. 2000 volts are
> stored in a capacitor.
I got a burn from an incandescent light bulb when I unscrewed it. When
I tried to unscrew the bulb base from the socket a high temperature
burning pain made me jump away. WARNING! Incandescent lightbulbs are
dangerous when not plugged in. Tell the world, tell the department
stores. Not Safe to Use. They cause radio interference. They buzz in
the audio spectrum using air waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do
not buy them. 2000 degrees Fahrenheit are stored in a filament.
--
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
Globemaker
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp
Since introduction in the 1990s, high frequency ballasts have been
used in general lighting fixtures with either rapid start or pre-heat
lamps. These ballasts convert the incoming power to an output
frequency in excess of 20 kHz. This increases lamp efficiency. These
are used in several applications, including new generation tanning
lamp systems, whereby a 100 watt lamp (e.g., F71T12BP) can be lit
using 65 to 70 watts of actual power while obtaining the same luminous
flux (measured in lumens) as magnetic ballasts. These ballasts operate
with voltages that can be almost 600 volts, requiring some
consideration in housing design, and can cause a minor limitation in
the length of the wire leads from the ballast to the lamp ends.
schematic using 6.8nf capacitors rated for voltages up to 1000v in CFL
http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html#sinecan5
Don Klipstein
wrote:
>Don Klipstein wrote:
>> In <7tudnRgYxqc04H_Q...@earthlink.com>, Michael A. Terrell
>> wrote mostly:
>>
>> > I have over 100, not counting the 25 W Halogen and some specialty
>> >bulbs for things like the lights at my gate and some in ceiling fans.
>> >Walmart & Dollar Tree have them for a good price, too. With my current
>> >health, I should have enough for the rest of my life.
>>
>> The incandescents that I saw at Dollar Tree are of the Sunbeam brand.
>> The 100 watt ones only produce 11 something hundred lumens. 75 watt 750
>> hour ones made by GE, Philips or Sylvania, even if store brand ones,
>> produce 1170-1210 lumens, as low as 1150 for soft white.
>
> The 100W are only used in clip on work lites in the shop where they
>get banged around a lot. The lower output lamps are a bit more rugged
>and don't burn out when you bump the lamp holder as fast as some other
>brands. I use mostly 60 or 75 W bulbs in incandescent.
So, you are not disputing my claim of fact that there are available
100W incandescents (such as dollar store ones) that fail to outshine 75W
ones available from Lowes. ???
>> > BTW, it pisses me off that you can't find decent 4' 40W tubes
>> >anymore. They used to be 99 cents anywhere you looked. Now all you can
>> >find are those crappy 32W bulbs that don't work in a lot of fixtures.
>>
>> Home Depot has true 40 watt Philips Ultralume fluorescents. The cool
>> white color is referred to by its nominal color temperature in Kelvin,
>> 4100. Its color rendering index is 82. Light output is not compromised
>> in comparison to old tech cool white. They cost a few dollars, though.
>
> Most of the time I don't find what i need at Home Depot. Their
>inventory is usually low, or stuck up on a top shelf that requires a
>forklift to get down, which results in an hour or two wait. I have
>found what I was after exactly once at HD in the last two years.
This is contrary to my usual experiences at Home Depot, though there are
a few lightbulbs that I like Lowes better for.
Michael A. Terrell
Don Klipstein wrote:
>
> In <qeSdncoKTrL1oHjQ...@earthlink.com>, Michael A. Terrell
> wrote:
>
> >Don Klipstein wrote:
>
> >> In <7tudnRgYxqc04H_Q...@earthlink.com>, Michael A. Terrell
> >> wrote mostly:
> >>
> >> > I have over 100, not counting the 25 W Halogen and some specialty
> >> >bulbs for things like the lights at my gate and some in ceiling fans.
> >> >Walmart & Dollar Tree have them for a good price, too. With my current
> >> >health, I should have enough for the rest of my life.
> >>
> >> The incandescents that I saw at Dollar Tree are of the Sunbeam brand.
> >> The 100 watt ones only produce 11 something hundred lumens. 75 watt 750
> >> hour ones made by GE, Philips or Sylvania, even if store brand ones,
> >> produce 1170-1210 lumens, as low as 1150 for soft white.
> >
> > The 100W are only used in clip on work lites in the shop where they
> >get banged around a lot. The lower output lamps are a bit more rugged
> >and don't burn out when you bump the lamp holder as fast as some other
> >brands. I use mostly 60 or 75 W bulbs in incandescent.
>
> So, you are not disputing my claim of fact that there are available
> 100W incandescents (such as dollar store ones) that fail to outshine 75W
> ones available from Lowes. ???
Why would I? They have sold lower output, long life incandescent for
decades. Hell, the lowest efficiency incandescent bulbs were used in
traffic lights for generations. You use what you need to do the job.
Would you want a single, high efficiency lamp over a stairwell where it
took a 40 foot ladder to replace, or several less efficient bulbs that
would last years or over a decade? I know of one where someone
installed a 8' fluorescent over 30 feet above the enclosed stairwell.
They couldn't find anyone to replace it when it failed, then the ballast
caught fire when someone left it turned on. Now they will have to cut a
hole through the wall of an apartment to reach the bad fixture to
replace it.
> >> > BTW, it pisses me off that you can't find decent 4' 40W tubes
> >> >anymore. They used to be 99 cents anywhere you looked. Now all you can
> >> >find are those crappy 32W bulbs that don't work in a lot of fixtures.
> >>
> >> Home Depot has true 40 watt Philips Ultralume fluorescents. The cool
> >> white color is referred to by its nominal color temperature in Kelvin,
> >> 4100. Its color rendering index is 82. Light output is not compromised
> >> in comparison to old tech cool white. They cost a few dollars, though.
> >
> > Most of the time I don't find what i need at Home Depot. Their
> >inventory is usually low, or stuck up on a top shelf that requires a
> >forklift to get down, which results in an hour or two wait. I have
> >found what I was after exactly once at HD in the last two years.
>
> This is contrary to my usual experiences at Home Depot, though there are
> a few lightbulbs that I like Lowes better for.
Lowes has a store right across the street from HD. They also have
another store on the oither end of town. HD was to build another store
near it, but never did. The Lowes is better stocked, and I can get in
and out a lot faster. They also give Veterans a 10% discount which the
local HD only does on Memorial Day and Veteran's Day.
Buying light bulbs is the least of my reasons to go to either. The
last light bulbs I bought for immediate use was a pair of Philips
Circiline. and it was about six years since the last time I needed
them. I got them at WalMart, since it was closer. The local HD only
had the wrong color temp, and Lowes website said they were out of stock
for the 22W bulb. Every thing else is from what is on hand including a
lot of GE, Philips & Sylvania that people gave me when they started
using all CFL. I use some CFL and LED, but most of the fixtures won't
work with them.
Baron
Following up !
The replacement fitting has been installed and now all four look the
same intensity.
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
Charles
"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
news:b7SdnZw6oJqnIHjQ...@web-ster.com...
On 05/28/2011 05:41 AM, Globemaker wrote:
> I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
> unplugged. The lamp fell to the floor and broke. I unplugged it before
> cleaning up the broken glass. When I tried to unscrew the bulb base
> from the socket, a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
> WARNING! Compact fluorescent lightbulbs are dangerous when not plugged
> in . Tell the world, tell the department stores. Not Safe to Use. They
> cause radio interference. They buzz in the audio spectrum using air
> waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do not buy them. 2000 volts are
> stored in a capacitor.
I got a burn from an incandescent light bulb when I unscrewed it. When
I tried to unscrew the bulb base from the socket a high temperature
burning pain made me jump away. WARNING! Incandescent lightbulbs are
dangerous when not plugged in. Tell the world, tell the department
stores. Not Safe to Use. They cause radio interference. They buzz in
the audio spectrum using air waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do
not buy them. 2000 degrees Fahrenheit are stored in a filament.
I ended up in emergency surgery due to an incandescent bulb that exploded in
my home. There was glass everywhere, and that terrorized my family. I got
up on a ladder and could not remove the shell of the lamp. I got
needle-nose pliers and got back on the ladder only to find that the crappy
metal base had corroded and resisted my attempt to remove it. I used more
body torque than my ladder could support, and fell and drove the pliers into
my brain.
Jamie
Beware, don't mistaken that white powder for something else!
Jamie
Michael A. Terrell
Charles wrote:
>
> I ended up in emergency surgery due to an incandescent bulb that exploded in
> my home. There was glass everywhere, and that terrorized my family. I got
> up on a ladder and could not remove the shell of the lamp. I got
> needle-nose pliers and got back on the ladder only to find that the crappy
> metal base had corroded and resisted my attempt to remove it. I used more
> body torque than my ladder could support, and fell and drove the pliers into
> my brain.
The last sentence explains a lot.
Don Klipstein
<SNIP from here>
The Sunbeam 100-watt ones and most other dollar store ones that don't
outshine 750 hour 75 watt ones have a rated life expectancy of only 1,000
or 1,100 hours. They are outshone by Philips ones with rated life
expectancy of 3500 hours and sold as "industrial service".
Michael A. Terrell
I don't think I have more than a few of the Sunbeam 100 W bulbs.
They were free, and no 100W bulb gives me even 750 hours before they
fail or break. I do have a bunch of the 11 W Sunbeam CFL that I've used
for years and not had one fail, yet. I only have a couple spots where I
use any incandescent lamps. Most are in places that only get used a few
hours a month. The exception is the pair of lamps on my gateposts. I
use a pair of green 40 W incandescent lamps for about three weeks around
Christmas. Then the 1.5 W LED lamps go back in the fixtures.
Jasen Betts
> Why would I? They have sold lower output, long life incandescent for
> decades. Hell, the lowest efficiency incandescent bulbs were used in
> traffic lights for generations. You use what you need to do the job.
> Would you want a single, high efficiency lamp over a stairwell where it
> took a 40 foot ladder to replace, or several less efficient bulbs that
> would last years or over a decade? I know of one where someone
> installed a 8' fluorescent over 30 feet above the enclosed stairwell.
> They couldn't find anyone to replace it when it failed, then the ballast
> caught fire when someone left it turned on. Now they will have to cut a
> hole through the wall of an apartment to reach the bad fixture to
> replace it.
no way to get a 28 foot ladder into the stairwell?
how about a shorter ladder and a scaffold ?
--
⚂⚃ 100% natural
--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ne...@netfront.net ---
Michael A. Terrell
Jasen Betts wrote:
>
> On 2011-06-01, Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > Why would I? They have sold lower output, long life incandescent for
> > decades. Hell, the lowest efficiency incandescent bulbs were used in
> > traffic lights for generations. You use what you need to do the job.
> > Would you want a single, high efficiency lamp over a stairwell where it
> > took a 40 foot ladder to replace, or several less efficient bulbs that
> > would last years or over a decade? I know of one where someone
> > installed a 8' fluorescent over 30 feet above the enclosed stairwell.
> > They couldn't find anyone to replace it when it failed, then the ballast
> > caught fire when someone left it turned on. Now they will have to cut a
> > hole through the wall of an apartment to reach the bad fixture to
> > replace it.
>
> no way to get a 28 foot ladder into the stairwell?
> how about a shorter ladder and a scaffold ?
There is only four feet between the door at the bottom of the stairs
and a long wall, and the stairwell is only 38" wide so I don't see how
you can get scaffolding or a ladder in and set up safely.
Jasen Betts
I don't see the problem. I'm not a scaffold rigger, but I've watvhed
them construct it out of tubing, clamps, and planks, I'd be surprised
if it took more than two man-hours to set-up a suitable ladder with a
supporting frame.
--
⚂⚃ 100% natural
Michael A. Terrell
Jasen Betts wrote:
>
> On 2011-06-03, Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > Jasen Betts wrote:
> >>
> >> On 2011-06-01, Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Why would I? They have sold lower output, long life incandescent for
> >> > decades. Hell, the lowest efficiency incandescent bulbs were used in
> >> > traffic lights for generations. You use what you need to do the job.
> >> > Would you want a single, high efficiency lamp over a stairwell where it
> >> > took a 40 foot ladder to replace, or several less efficient bulbs that
> >> > would last years or over a decade? I know of one where someone
> >> > installed a 8' fluorescent over 30 feet above the enclosed stairwell.
> >> > They couldn't find anyone to replace it when it failed, then the ballast
> >> > caught fire when someone left it turned on. Now they will have to cut a
> >> > hole through the wall of an apartment to reach the bad fixture to
> >> > replace it.
> >>
> >> no way to get a 28 foot ladder into the stairwell?
> >> how about a shorter ladder and a scaffold ?
> >
> > There is only four feet between the door at the bottom of the stairs
> > and a long wall, and the stairwell is only 38" wide so I don't see how
> > you can get scaffolding or a ladder in and set up safely.
>
> I don't see the problem.
Of course you don't, but you'll cliam to have the solution, as usual
and not having seen the situation.
> I'm not a scaffold rigger, but I've watvhed
> them construct it out of tubing, clamps, and planks, I'd be surprised
> if it took more than two man-hours to set-up a suitable ladder with a
> supporting frame.
Then I'll tell thm you're the man to call, since you're the expert.
Like I said, there is no way to get a long ladder into that stairwell.
Anything over eight feet won't make the turn.
halong
> I got a shock from a compact fluorescent light bulb when it was
> unplugged. The lamp fell to the floor and broke. I unplugged it before
> cleaning up the broken glass. When I tried to unscrew the bulb base
> from the socket, a high voltage shocking pain made me jump away.
> WARNING! Compact fluorescent lightbulbs are dangerous when not plugged
> in . Tell the world, tell the department stores. Not Safe to Use. They
> cause radio interference. They buzz in the audio spectrum using air
> waves to send sound to peoples' ears. Do not buy them. 2000 volts are
> stored in a capacitor.
that sounds nightmare
Globemaker
Yes, it was nightmarish to imagine a 2000 volt shock when the 175
volts went into my hand.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Is it still in there?
Globemaker
wrote:
Yes, the 174 volts entered my hand with a painful number of electrons
and holes. They did not recombine immediately, but were captured by
molecules and incorporated into new cells. I am trying to keep track
of each electron from that long ago shock, but they become
increasingly indistinguishable from other leptons, like muons. In
fact, I suspect that muonic molecules are infiltrating my DNA,
creating very small jeans.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
...and morons.
>In
>fact, I suspect that muonic molecules are infiltrating my DNA,
>creating very small jeans.
Weineritis?