I usually design my circuit board layout for single side copper clad baord on
0.1 inch grid paper to get accurate lead spacings. Then I tape the grid paper
onto the piece of clad board, and use an automatic (spring loaded internal
impact device) center punch to locate all holes. Then I scrub the board with
a steel wool pot cleaner pad, and detergent to get oily finger prints off.
Then covering as much of the board with a piece of paper to keep it clean, I
use the laquer pen to connect the punch marks with trace lines and enclose
them with pad dots. I don't heat the etchant, but etch the board upside down
instead in a bowl so that there is a layer of etchant beheath the board. Then
I rinse the board thoroughly, drill all the holes, and use the scrubbing pad
to remove the resist ink and the board is ready for soldering. This method is
satisfactory for small boards at low density, not for surface mount, or other
high density applications.
John Popelish
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jpop...@rica.net wrote in message <6l3eqb$9g$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>In article <3574D2D5...@yahoo.com>,
> ken <kk...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> What is Etch Resist ink pens and why we need it in PCB? Thanks in
>> Advance!
>>
>>
>It is a fine tipped marker filled with acid resistant laquer instead of
ink.
There are some commercially available ones for this purpose (Dacon - Dalo)
but some water resistant pens (for overhead transparencies) will do too.
You must try on some scrap PCBs.
>I usually design my circuit board layout for single side copper clad baord
on
>0.1 inch grid paper to get accurate lead spacings. Then I tape the grid
paper
>onto the piece of clad board, and use an automatic (spring loaded internal
>impact device) center punch to locate all holes. Then I scrub the board
with
>a steel wool pot cleaner pad, and detergent to get oily finger prints off.
>Then covering as much of the board with a piece of paper to keep it clean,
I
>use the laquer pen to connect the punch marks with trace lines and enclose
>them with pad dots. I don't heat the etchant, but etch the board upside
down
>instead in a bowl so that there is a layer of etchant beheath the board.
Then
>I rinse the board thoroughly, drill all the holes, and use the scrubbing
pad
>to remove the resist ink and the board is ready for soldering. This method
is
>satisfactory for small boards at low density, not for surface mount, or
other
>high density applications.
I use a slightly different scenario:
After center punching the holes I drill them. Drilling after etching tends
to
tear off the donuts!
Now comes the cleaning.
With the holes drilled it's easier to draw the pads. Just press the tip of a
blunt pen in the hole and rotate it. With the pads in place it's easy to
connect them with a (sharper) pen.
Bob
Instead of buying _Etch Resist_ pens at a premium price, look in your
office supplies for SHARPIE pens made by Sanford. Same thing!
Roy
They are resistant to etchant (e.g. ferric chloride) and they are useful
for manually 'touching up' any flaws in the pcb etch resist patterns
prior to etching the board. Otherwise, I would use, say, dry rub down
transfers which are neater and produce far more consistent results.
--
Alan Winstanley - On-Line Editor email: al...@epemag.demon.co.uk
Everyday Practical Electronics Magazine My views are my views.
Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 1PF, United Kingdom The Basic Soldering Guide
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk - check the EPE Web Site!
The idea is simply to put a barrier between the copper and the acid
that won't break down during the etching process. There are tapes
(sticky stuff), transfer plastics (use photocopy/laser printer
toner), photo-reactive coatings, and other misc. techniques to
accomplish this. If the acid doesn't touch the copper, the copper
stays on the board.
I remember spray-painting some stock, then plotting a reverse image
onto the board with a scribe tip in an XY plotter; alittle touch up
work and I had a PCB. I have used markers (Sharpies), transfer film
(Tek-2000), tape&donut, and most recently, photoresist, all
successfully.
--
Senior Technologist
Magneto-Inductive Systems Ltd.
(anti-spamming measures may be in effect)
ken <kk...@yahoo.com> wrote in article
<3574D2D5...@yahoo.com>...
It's used to draw out tracks on a sheet of blank PCB. The pigment is
resistant to the etchant.
These pens are grossly overpriced. A fine tip permanent marker will do just
fine. Make sure the ink is soluable in meths. OHP film pens work just as
well.
--
Pete
newm...@ihug.co.nz
--
Pete
newm...@ihug.co.nz
ken wrote in message <3574D2D5...@yahoo.com>...