If there are Bunsen burner models made specifically for propane use,
what might the differences be between it and the regular kind... and how
important would it really be to use one?
a) have a good reduction valve (two step)
b) use proper tubing
c) use backfire trap
d) place the tank far, far away from whereever you are planning to use
the gas.
It may end up being easier to hook up your bunsen to a normal gas line
(unless you live in an all-electrical house that is).
Since you are doing your stuff in the basement, you would be well
advised to actively ventilate your work area because in a small,
confined room whatever fumes/gaseous substances etc. you will be
generating can quickly become very concentrated. A make-it-yourself
ventilated hood is even better as long as you pipe the exhaust out on
the roof.
A.
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"Dr. Artem Evdokimov" wrote:
> As long as you know what you're doing i.e. as long as you
>
> a) have a good reduction valve (two step)
> b) use proper tubing
> c) use backfire trap
> d) place the tank far, far away from whereever you are planning to use
> the gas.
Uh-oh. I have no idea what a reduction valve (two-step or otherwise) or a
backfire trap is. Are they present in high school chem labs? I don't want to
blow myself or my basement up... if I find a Bunsen burner that says it is
specifically made for LP, should I be okay, or do I need to look for these
extra gadgets too? Thanks!
In that case, why don't you just buy a camping gas stove? They're small
and safe, and they wour just as fine as Bunsen burners.
You might get problems adjusting the flame properly if your nozzle is not
the correct one.
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BjornP
Back-flame suppressor is an inline gizmo that prevents the flame from
traveling backwards through the tubes. While the possibility of this is
remote, it is a good idea to have it because having one's body parts
horribly burnt is a jolly bad thing indeed. Most grills and barbeques
have these (or at least, they should!). You might be able to get away
without one as long as you a) make sure that your hose does not let
oxygen in and b) always purge your line with pure gas before lighting
the fire.
In general, I heartily agree with the other poster who advised you to
just use a portable gas burner - I think I saw one sold for under $20.
Artem
lol, he said LP in his post. You should go to a hardware store. They sell
hoses for the BBQ so you can hook it up with the large tank. Costs from 10
to 20$. Don't buy small propane tanks, they are a waste of money.
And I think the bunsen can be adjusted for propane (the valve) so should
not be a problem.
V-man
Not only that, but remember that propane is heavier than air, so if
your cutoff valve leaks, the propane will tend to accumulate in the basement
(and in particular, near the floor, and thus near to the air intakes for
combustion chambers of furnaces and hot water heaters) rather than leaking out
through the ceiling of the basement as natural gas would; for the same reason,
people upstairs are less likely to smell it before something bad happens. It
is better to do this kind of thing in a garage that is not below ground level,
provided that you back the car(s) out, keep the door open, and do not store
large quantities of flammable liquids in the garage.
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Last time I bought a cooker, I was supplied with two kinds of
injectors - these are the small nozzles at the base of the jets. One
for methane, one for a LPG.
I'm nearly certain that you can buy Bunsen burners for either
LPG or methane ("town gas" in the UK.), or equipped with two sets of
injectors .
Ask your supplier.
Have fun,
Joe Cummings
>
"Dr. Artem Evdokimov" <eudo...@mail.ncifcrf.gov> wrote:
>> Just wondering whether it'd be okay to hook up a Bunsen burner to a
>> propane tank (the kind which fuels backyard BBQ grills) for use in
>> amateur experiments in a home lab? Any reasons why this might be a bad
>> idea? No convenient natural gas outlets in my basement....
>>[. . .]
>[. . .]
>Since you are doing your stuff in the basement, you would be well
>advised to actively ventilate your work area because in a small,
>confined room whatever fumes/gaseous substances etc. you will be
>generating can quickly become very concentrated. A make-it-yourself
>ventilated hood is even better as long as you pipe the exhaust out on
>the roof.
Not only that, but remember that propane is heavier than air, so if
<snip>
man, you really need a different news server (check out www.mailops.com)
fish
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