Chemical or method to etch/frost lucite or other clear plastic VERY finely & evenly?
Doc
plexi a "frosted" appearance? I need it to be as even as possible - i.e.
without visible striations/unevenness when held up to light, and little or
as tiny a grain as possible (*no* grain would be ideal) for projecting an
image onto one side.
I thought about sandblasting, is there an off the shelf chemical that would
do this?
Thanks for all input.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
ethylene chloride will.
However, I cannot think of any way to get an effective "ground glass" finish
using those sovents. Even if spray-misted onto the surface, you won't get
the texture and diffusive quality you want.
I know from having build rear-projection boxes myself that acrylic sheeting
is available in a ground finish on one side or both. You want single-sided
treatment. Rather than doing it yourself, this really would be a good thing
to buy.
LLoyd
"Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
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RAMł
news:hcfmg.9253$o4....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
How about simply buying frosted Lucite sheets?
http://www.lucitecp.com/Myst.asp comes in clear and colors...
David Billington
effect from glass and sign shops.
Leo Lichtman
"David Billington" <d...@djbillington.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:44999145...@djbillington.freeserve.co.uk...
> You can buy frosted film for applying to glass to give a frosted glass
> effect from glass and sign shops.
I have applied frosting to glass from a spray can. I don't see why this
wouldn't also work on acrylic. The difficulty I see with adhesive film
would be getting it absolutely bubble and wrinkle free, and eliminating
EVERY particle of dust.
Greg Heilers
Could you just sand it with 600 wet-and-dry paper?
Just enough, and with a fine enough grit...to just give
it a bit of "tooth"?
--
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Mark Thorson
>
> What would you recommend to give one side of a clear sheet like
> lucite or plexi a "frosted" appearance?
Could you use paper instead?
Herman Family
"Doc" <docsa...@xhotmail.comx> wrote in message
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sufficient, overkill, or whatever. It seems they tend to leave a white
residue wherever I don't want it.
Michael
Doc
"Greg Heilers" <gNOSPAM...@earthNOSPAMlink.net> wrote in message
news:pan.2006.06.22....@earthNOSPAMlink.net...
> Could you just sand it with 600 wet-and-dry paper?
> Just enough, and with a fine enough grit...to just give
> it a bit of "tooth"?
Tried it, with 2000 grit actually, but the striations are visible, even
trying it from multiple angles.
The idea is to make the surface such that it's obscured, such that it
supports a projected image, but still diffuses the surrounding light,
hotspot etc. and not be readily intrusive into the image - i.e. no grain or
irregularities in the surface.
Probably going to take some material to a sandblasting shop tomorrow and see
what they can do with it.
Doc
"Mark Thorson" <nos...@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:4499F13A...@sonic.net...
You can but the grain is too inconsistent for my taste, very visible in the
image.
Richard J Kinch
> I thought about sandblasting, is there an off the shelf chemical that
> would do this?
Frosted surfaces are optically inefficient. A holographic light shaping
diffuser will perform much better. E.g., http://www.poc.com
Bert
>
>"Greg Heilers" <gNOSPAM...@earthNOSPAMlink.net> wrote in message
>news:pan.2006.06.22....@earthNOSPAMlink.net...
>
>> Could you just sand it with 600 wet-and-dry paper?
>> Just enough, and with a fine enough grit...to just give
>> it a bit of "tooth"?
>
>Tried it, with 2000 grit actually, but the striations are visible, even
>trying it from multiple angles.
Maybe try it with a random orbit sander? No experience -- just
speculating.
MKnott
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Junie Daise
docsa...@xhotmail.comx says...
>Probably going to take some material to a sandblasting shop tomorrow and see
>what they can do with it.
While you're out, stop into Walmart or another outlet selling
CLEAR self-stick shelving paper. It's not paper, but a clear
plastic film with low-tack adhesive. I've used it to "frost"
the windows of my house for privacy while letting in all the
light possible - hate drapes and window blinds. That was
nearly 9 years ago and the film still looks as good as the
day I applied it. Of course it takes a degree of care in
application to keep from forming air bubbles but it can be
done if the film is laid down slowly while squeegeeing as
it lays down. It also works great as a rear projection
screen when applied to a sheet of acrylic glazing.
Spehro Pefhany
Is it roughly the same as the plastic film used to protect the surface
of metal etc?
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
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Doc wrote:
> "Greg Heilers" <gNOSPAM...@earthNOSPAMlink.net> wrote in message
> news:pan.2006.06.22....@earthNOSPAMlink.net...
>
> > Could you just sand it with 600 wet-and-dry paper?
> > Just enough, and with a fine enough grit...to just give
> > it a bit of "tooth"?
>
> Tried it, with 2000 grit actually, but the striations are visible, even
> trying it from multiple angles.
You should be able to get a reasonable flat matt surface finish with
2000 grit and a smooth circular motion. Asking on one of the optics
groups or amateur telescope makers webpages for tips might get you some
sources for finer grade of carborundum and optimum techniques for
making a uniform flat finish.
>
> The idea is to make the surface such that it's obscured, such that it
> supports a projected image, but still diffuses the surrounding light,
> hotspot etc. and not be readily intrusive into the image - i.e. no grain or
> irregularities in the surface.
>
> Probably going to take some material to a sandblasting shop tomorrow and see
> what they can do with it.
You will probably need cast acrylic rather than extruded if striations
are an issue. Cast has much more uniform optical properties.
Regards,
Martin Brown
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
<|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1150982862.9...@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
>
> You should be able to get a reasonable flat matt surface finish with
> 2000 grit and a smooth circular motion. Asking on one of the optics
> groups or amateur telescope makers webpages for tips might get you some
> sources for finer grade of carborundum and optimum techniques for
> making a uniform flat finish.
As a young man, I spent many hours walking around a barrel grinding amateur
telescope mirrors.
If two flats are worked against one-another with water and abrasives
between, you don't get a "sanding" action with linear (or even curved)
scratches. Instead, the abrasive grains roll, and chip out distinct pits.
The finish - if done with enough water and very spare on the abrasive - will
be a perfectly 'frosted' appearance all over the flat, with not a scratch to
be seen.
There are some specific motion disciplines to observe when grinding flats,
and you should refer to a telescope-making manual before proceding.
LLoyd
Don Stauffer
spray can of stuff made to frost windows and lamp panes.
F. George McDuffee
<spef...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:
>On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 07:24:52 -0500, the renowned
>juni...@dontemailme.com (Junie Daise) wrote:
>
>>In article <7oomg.9252$lf4...@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>,
>>docsa...@xhotmail.comx says...
>>
>>
>>>Probably going to take some material to a sandblasting shop tomorrow and see
>>>what they can do with it.
>>
>>While you're out, stop into Walmart or another outlet selling
>>CLEAR self-stick shelving paper. It's not paper, but a clear
>>plastic film with low-tack adhesive. I've used it to "frost"
>>the windows of my house for privacy while letting in all the
>>light possible - hate drapes and window blinds. That was
>>nearly 9 years ago and the film still looks as good as the
>>day I applied it. Of course it takes a degree of care in
>>application to keep from forming air bubbles but it can be
>>done if the film is laid down slowly while squeegeeing as
>>it lays down. It also works great as a rear projection
>>screen when applied to a sheet of acrylic glazing.
>
>Is it roughly the same as the plastic film used to protect the surface
>of metal etc?
>
>
>Best regards,
>Spehro Pefhany
===========================
Trick to applying is to spray the surface with a weak solution of
detergent [not soap] and water. This will allow the film to
"float" into position. Squeegee down from the center out using a
soft spatula. As soon as the water is displaced the adhesive will
"grab." A credit card is too hard and may scratch or scrape the
film. Be sure everything is flat or at most a simple curve or
you are almost sure to get a bubble.
Unka George
(George McDuffee)
There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy
which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations;
even a democrat like myself must admit this.
But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy,
for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch,"
but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.
Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.
Junie Daise
gmcd...@mcduffee-associates.us says...
>Trick to applying is to spray the surface with a weak solution of
>detergent [not soap] and water. This will allow the film to
>"float" into position. Squeegee down from the center out using a
>soft spatula. As soon as the water is displaced the adhesive will
>"grab." A credit card is too hard and may scratch or scrape the
>film. Be sure everything is flat or at most a simple curve or
>you are almost sure to get a bubble.
I've done LOTS of application with the plastic shelving
film and never had a problem with the bubbles. I use
a flat piece of stiff urethane foam as my squeegee. I
squeegee right behind the film as it makes contact with
whatever surface it's being applied to. And
the shelving plastic I'm referring to is tough enough
that a credit card won't harm it. I'd be leery of a soap
film interfering with the adhesive quality. I have applied the
film on vertical window glass as well as flat surfaces.
Wild Bill
products with pressure-sensitive adhesive has produced no detrimental
effect to adhesion.
I've applied many automotive overlays (woodgrain, large stripes/graphic
vinyl products) on painted metal, and tinted window films to auto glass
using the wet method without any bad results. A new plastic body filler
spreader works well for colored, thick vinyl products. A trigger spray
bottle of water, applied on the working side acts as a lubricant to
minimize stretching the vinyl.
For the very thin window films, a new, soapy/wet rubber squeege will
prevent scratching the film. The package instructions cautioned about
using soaps/detergents with ammonia in them, stating that plain mild
detergents were best.
WB
..............
F. George McDuffee
Remember that is a weak *DETERGENT* solution *NOT* a soap
solution which will leave a film!!!
On 23 Jun 2006 07:48:31 -0700, "Wild Bill"
z
Can't you just paint it flat white?
Ioan Barladeanu
z wrote:
> Can't you just paint it flat white?
No he can't. Not for rear projection.
My advice goes as well in the direction of buying already frosted
acrylic, lexan or whatever. I think that 3M might have some good
adhesive film for that purpose (i'm not sure if they do it, but i've
seen something like that being used in a store window).
z
z
Jimmie D
"z" <gzuc...@snail-mail.net> wrote in message
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AHoy
wrote:
I'm gonna hate myself for this, but you could apply some scotch tape to
one side..the dull brand they advertise as being transparent on wrapping
paper. It has that frosted, dull look about it.
Jimmie D
"Jimmie D" <jimm...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:HW2pg.80472$qd2....@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
I think you can also get something like auto window tinting thats frosted.
John Savage
>>> Doc wrote:
>>> >
>>> > What would you recommend to give one side of a clear sheet like
>>> > lucite or plexi a "frosted" appearance?
>>
Have you got a scrap of lucite to try this out: what about just rubbing
the surface over with very fine grade emery paper?
The instructions on an aerosol can of spray-on adhesive claim that,
besides its use as an adhesive, a light coat of the spray will produce
a frosted surface effect on glass.
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)
sam
"Jimmie D" <jimm...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
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>
There is an 'etching paste' used by folks working with stain glass and
monogramming (drinking) glasses. It is a less harsh alternative to
sandblasting. Check your local craft supply store.
MossyOats
On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 00:40:01 -0500, John Savage
<rook...@suburbian.com.au> whinnied like a stuck pig for all
non-concerned:
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