The current methodology is to use 2-butoxyethanol (which only softens it a
little and is toxic) or to physically remove by using a light lapping
abrasive compound, or a bronze wire brush.
I've also tried engine type cleaners, but they don't seem to work.
Apparantly they are formulated to only work under heat and pressure.
Any ideas?
good luck...
Andreas Fiedler
"G-man" <gm...@columbus.rr.com> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:ajvy4.26470$h.16...@typhoon.columbus.rr.com...
Probably not simply carbon deposits.
If you can detach the barrel from the receiver (if
that's the correct term) try passing hot oxygen
through the barrel (about 600 deg C) or more easily, place the
barrel in a glass annealing oven (finding one is left as an
excercise for the student). BTW, the oxygen is the "solvent".
Mark
The problem with dealing with that much heat is that it could induce stress
in the steel.
I've thought about an ultrasonic cleaning tank, but I am clueless on the
solvent to use in the ultrasound bath and the price of a large enough (25" x
4") ultrasound bath is too damn high. Maybe I could build my own, but I am
also clueless on how and where to get the ultrasound transducers.
G-man wrote:
>
> I am trying to find a solvent(s) for the removal of hard carbon deposits in
> a 416 stainless steel rifle barrel. The trick is to find a solvent that
> will remove the carbon fouling without attacking the steel.
>
> The current methodology is to use 2-butoxyethanol (which only softens it a
> little and is toxic) or to physically remove by using a light lapping
> abrasive compound, or a bronze wire brush.
>
> I've also tried engine type cleaners, but they don't seem to work.
> Apparantly they are formulated to only work under heat and pressure.
>
> Any ideas?
1) Soak it in brake fluid, or
2) soak it in automatic transmission fluid, or
3) soak it in carburetor cleaner.
(3) is entirely vicious and should not be allowed to contact the skin
or be inhaled. The first two are quite nasty on prolonged skin
contact - as in necrosis.
The only lubricant and surface release agent that might stand up to
the inside of a rifle barrel would be micronized boron nitride (cheap
hexagonal polymorph, NOT cubic-BN).
--
Uncle Al
http://www.mazepath.com/uncleal/
http://www.ultra.net.au/~wisby/uncleal/
http://www.guyy.demon.co.uk/uncleal/
(Toxic URLs! Unsafe for children and most mammals)
"Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?" The Net!
G-man <gm...@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:kTyy4.26651$h.16...@typhoon.columbus.rr.com...
>
> Mark Tarka <mark...@mcn.net> wrote in message
news:38CAA2...@mcn.net...
> > G-man wrote:
> > >
> > > I am trying to find a solvent(s) for the removal of hard carbon
deposits
> in
> > > a 416 stainless steel rifle barrel. The trick is to find a solvent
that
> > > will remove the carbon fouling without attacking the steel.
> > >
> > > The current methodology is to use 2-butoxyethanol (which only softens
it
> a
> > > little and is toxic) or to physically remove by using a light lapping
> > > abrasive compound, or a bronze wire brush.
> > >
> > > I've also tried engine type cleaners, but they don't seem to work.
> > > Apparantly they are formulated to only work under heat and pressure.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?
> >
But you don't know, do ya? Go ye forth and seek out the
melting point temperature of your stainless steel. Then look
for an annealing or softening temperature.
> I've thought about an ultrasonic cleaning tank, but I am clueless on the
> solvent to use in the ultrasound bath and the price of a large enough (25" x
> 4") ultrasound bath is too damn high. Maybe I could build my own, but I am
> also clueless on how and where to get the ultrasound transducers.
Then try contacting the manufacturers of the gun and the ammunition.
There's also Hoppe's.
I get the carbon deposits off of the backs of my engine's valves
and stems with a wire cup-brush and a power drill, FWIW.
Mark
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Uncle Al: the solvents that you mentioned won't do the job. Been there,
done that.
But the boron nitride does indeed work. Some have tried impregnating the
bullets with this and tungsten disulfide with some success, but they seem to
degrade accuracy by some degree. MoS2 also seems to work early in barrel
life, but tends to build up and harden worse than carbon fouling.
Larry Smith <lar...@online.no> wrote in message
news:7iDy4.12662$6b1.2...@news1.online.no...
> I think if I were going to let imagination soar and develop a system to
do
> this,
> I might give a try at "water blasting", or another liquid equivalent.
>
> That way you wouldn't have to heat the barrel at all, and could expect to
> get
> cleaning in the rifling. You also wouldn't be limited to stainless steel.
>
> For stainless steel, you could probably develop a way to use a nitric acid
> bath.
> Nitric attacks many of the foulants within a rifle barrel, and is
protective
> to stainless
> steel if used correctly. This would be inherently more hazardous than the
> blasting
> proposal.
> ?
>
>
>
The really old-fashioned method (advice obtained from a black-powder
gun nut) is pouring boiling (not hot, _boiling_) water down the
barrel. Tried that?
What kind of powder do you use? How often do you clean your gun?
Mark L. Fergerson