Losmandy G-11 problem
Peter Moreton
but unused. It's beautifully made, and there is no detectable 'play' in
the RA or DEC axis.
However, there is a huge amount of slop or play in the altitude
adjustment mechanism, probably about 1/2" at the counterwight shaft end.
I am sure this play must be adjustable, any ideas?
Thanks,
--
Peter Moreton
Northamptonshire, UK
Peter.^Mor...@chase.com (remove ^ to email)
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Paul Hyndman
Peter Moreton <peterm...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> I just took delivery of a Losmandy G-11 equatorial mount,
> seocndhand =, but unused. It's beautifully made, and there
> is no detectable 'play' in the RA or DEC axis.
>
> However, there is a huge amount of slop or play in the altitude
> adjustment mechanism, probably about 1/2" at the counterwight
> shaft end. I am sure this play must be adjustable, any ideas?
Hi Peter,
They are great mounts... I love mine! Prof. René Görlich has an
(unofficial) G11 web site that addresses many of the "tuning fixes" for
this mount. The URL is:
http://www.tfh-berlin.de/usr1/doz/goerlich/public_html/cg11tune.html
My e-mail friend, Mark Dambrosio, has a lot of knowledge on these
issues and can probably help as well (he also has some lubrication info
you could benefit from)... You out there Mark?
Clear Skies!
Paul
--
Paul Hyndman pghy...@yahoo.com Madison, CT
Peter Moreton
Thanks Paul, I'll checkout that URL today. The G11 really
is a superb piece of engineering, I can see why you love yours!
I know you can get Digital Setting Circles for the G11, do you
know if they are worthwhile, and do you know if there is a full
goto solution available?
Thanks again,
--
Peter Moreton
Northamptonshire, UK
Peter.^Mor...@chase.com (remove ^ to email)
royst...@my-deja.com
> > >
> > > However, there is a huge amount of slop or play in the altitude
> > > adjustment mechanism, probably about 1/2" at the counterwight
> > > shaft end. I am sure this play must be adjustable, any ideas?
> >
play will be against the pivot bolt and be forced forward. The neweer
mounts have an extra bolt to tighten this and lock it down. But it
does not remove teh Play. My older one same thing now way to remove the
slop but itn parctice it is not normally a problem because teh weight
pulls it forward and keeps it there. The fix on the web page is to
build up the bushing with metal until it fits the slot exactly. This
requires soldering or brazing and is possible but I would try the mount
as is before doing this.
Paul Hyndman
Peter Moreton <peterm...@my-deja.com> wrote:
> I know you can get Digital Setting Circles for the G11, do you
> know if they are worthwhile, and do you know if there is a full
> goto solution available?
It's rumored that Scott and Casey (Losmandy) may have their own full
GOTO system available by the end of the year (with retrofit kits
available)! So you may want to hold off for a while and see what
develops.
I sometimes use the setting circles as "cheater wheels". You don't have
to set them up or even know how to use them (properly) to do this. Just
set up the mount with your normal level of care for correct polar
alignment, find any easy (bright) object on (or near) the same RA or
DEC as your intended target, aim on the easy target, add any necessary
corrective offset to the listed co-ordinate for that target, lock that
axis down, then simply slew the scope on that axis till you hit
paydirt! (It really is a lot simpler than it sounds.) Of course it's
much more precise if you do use them the way they were intended.
Then too, there's also the thrill of the hunt when doing just plain
old "star-hopping"... don't cheat yourself out of the satisfying
feeling in seeking out and finding (uhhh... okay sometimes accidently
bumping into) your intended target!
Clear Skies!
Paul
--
Paul Hyndman pghy...@yahoo.com Madison, CT
Herm
equator, but it will not be a problem in the UK. Once the mount is loaded the
play will go away. You may want to disassemble the base and make sure everything
is ok, there are a couple of screws in there that could be loose.
Herm
On Mon, 18 Oct 1999 08:13:00 GMT, Peter Moreton <peterm...@my-deja.com>
wrote:
>I just took delivery of a Losmandy G-11 equatorial mount, seocndhand =,
>but unused. It's beautifully made, and there is no detectable 'play' in
>the RA or DEC axis.
>
>However, there is a huge amount of slop or play in the altitude
>adjustment mechanism, probably about 1/2" at the counterwight shaft end.
>I am sure this play must be adjustable, any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
Rockett Crawford
Peter Moreton wrote:
> I know you can get Digital Setting Circles for the G11, do you
> know if they are worthwhile, and do you know if there is a full
> goto solution available?
>
I have the digital setting circles and they are wonderful. They
are accurate enough to get the object within the field of a
low power eyepiece, particularly after recentering on a nearby
object.
I have heard that Scott has a goto in the testing phase and
it might be available next year.
take care,
Rockett Crawford
-----------------------------------
"We're gonna send the weapons up on a starry night
Explode them above the atmosphere, it sounds right
The whole damn world will be watching
The magic mushrooms in the bright sky"
- Jon Anderson
Capella's Observatory
http://web2.airmail.net/capella
Rockett Crawford
Peter Moreton wrote:
> I just took delivery of a Losmandy G-11 equatorial mount, seocndhand =,
> but unused. It's beautifully made, and there is no detectable 'play' in
> the RA or DEC axis.
>
> However, there is a huge amount of slop or play in the altitude
> adjustment mechanism, probably about 1/2" at the counterwight shaft end.
> I am sure this play must be adjustable, any ideas?
>
Mine and everyone else's I have looked at does the same thing. This doesn't
hurt anything that I can see unless you are near the equator polar aligning.
Allan Mayer
> The G11 really
>is a superb piece of engineering, I can see why you love yours!
>
Hey... I love my G-11 also.
Anyway, I think I've found the "best" grease for the
bearings. I've used one called TRI-FLO. Sold in most
high quality bicycle stores, for use on the bottom bracket.
I have a few pic's of my G-11 taken apart, and will
post them, with along with instructions on repacking the
bearings. But the TRI-FLO was a BIG improvment over
the original grease !!
Allan
http://members.aol.com/Thetabat/hello.html
"Only a Gentleman can insult me, and a true Gentleman never will..."
urthworm
Are you experiencing this play when the altitiude adjustment axis is locked
down? My GM8 has an altitude adjustment knob, but with the two hex bolts on
either side of the altitude axis scales there is absolutely no play in this
orientation. Maybe you forgot to tighten up the hex bolts? Or, are you
certain that the three bolts that secure the mount to the tripod head are
locked down?
Sal
astr...@erols.com
older G-11 mounts. Even the newer G-11 mounts can benefit from the
addition of the altitude Adjustable Handle.
http://www.tfh-berlin.de/~goerlich/cg11tune.html
Joe Castoro
Peter Moreton wrote:
>
> I just took delivery of a Losmandy G-11 equatorial mount, seocndhand =,
> but unused. It's beautifully made, and there is no detectable 'play' in
> the RA or DEC axis.
>
> However, there is a huge amount of slop or play in the altitude
> adjustment mechanism, probably about 1/2" at the counterwight shaft end.
> I am sure this play must be adjustable, any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Peter Moreton
> Northamptonshire, UK
> Peter.^Mor...@chase.com (remove ^ to email)
>
mark dambrosio
replied with good advice on saa. Does your G-11 have only one bolt on
either side, or two? The earlier models, (usually marked Celestron)
only had one, and they had quite a bit of slop. The newer units
incorporate Professor Rene Goerlich's mods. (An additional hex cap bolt
on either side). These can be snugged down, but then have to be
loosened to put back in it's box. It also will make some ugly mars on
the anodizing. You could find some very thin nylon washers to put
between the mount, and cap bolt to alleve this a bit. As others
mentioned though, it is not super critical to tighten these down, as the
OTA will load the mount. My freind never tightens his, and seems to
have no problems in this respect. I do highly recommend relubrication
though. The stuff Scott Losmandy has been using is as stiff as glue.
Do this before damage occurs to the needle bearings (Flat spots), and
shafts. Set the mount up in the house, (Well lit area) Leaving the
counterweight shaft off, unscrew the dec clamp knob, and washer pack
insuring that you don't lose their orientation. The Dec shaft will
slide right out of it's housing. Clean the shaft, and the two needle
bearing packs with a solvent such as turpentine, gasoline, naptha, and a
clean towel. You'll probably notice that the bearing packs barely
rotate when using a finger to move them. After cleaning both bearings,
and shaft, use your finger to repack both bearings, and put a light coat
on the shaft where they contact the bearings. (Use a good high grade
grease) Carefully reinsert the shafts in their housings, without
dinging the bearings. Use the same procedure for the polar axis too.
The mount will be much smoother to use, and will protect the bearings,
and metal shafts. Do this about every 6-8 months. In extreme cold, you
can "cut" this grease with a drop, or two of light motor oil. Mark
Allan Mayer
>play will be against the pivot bolt and be forced forward. The neweer
>mounts have an extra bolt to tighten this and lock it down.
I have the newer mount, and it really dosent even matter.
(works in practice just as you have said above)
I dont even bother to tighten the two bolts anymore. As long
as the mount itself isnt "grabbed" or shoved in any way,
you have no problem. (I've yet to do any long exposures though)
RWhitfi647
and installed a larger single tube ring. Almost all the slop was gone. The slop
can occur from any weak or loose area or knob including the tropod legs if they
aren't secure. Your clutch knobs must be barely tightened to slew w/out slop.
I called Scott Losmandy yesterday and asked him about the lighter weight
grease or oil. He suggested to unscrew the clutch knobs and spray WD-40 at the
bearings as a way to break any stiffness. He didn't feel it was neccesary to
change the lubricant and remove the bearings. He said there is no heat
generated on the bearings to worry about the lube. This might be easier if it
works.
Roger
RWhitfi647
a pair of bearings which were stiff as could be. I sprayed the WD and then
applied some slick 50 w/ my finger until they rolled easily under my finger
tip. I also cleaned off some black paint from the RA nylon washer and lubed it.
That also must of been a source of friction in my mount. This GM-8 has a sweet
movement now.
Roger
mark dambrosio
WD-40 would be a great product to break the siezing, and clean the crud
off that is on these needle bearings. Yes, i agree that there is no
heat generated at the bearings, (Unless the shafts were spun at
1000rpm), but a good grade of grease is used/needed on heavy load
bearings/sufaces to protect them from wear. WD-40 is not going to do
this. Also WD-40 has a tendency to evaporate. (And it will no doubt
drip all over the place, making a real mess.) IMO, the best bet, is to
clean everything off these bearings, and shafts till they're spotless,
and relube/repack with any good high grade grease. In extreme cold
weather, cut the grease on these bearings with a drop, or two of
something like Mobil 1, Prolong (What i have used), or gun oil. I
guarantee you will be very satisfied with the mount's smooth operation.
Mark
Allan Mayer
MarkDa...@webtv.net (mark dambrosio) writes:
>Hi Roger, I still have to disagree with Scott's reasoning here. The
>WD-40 would be a great product to break the siezing, and clean the crud
>off that is on these needle bearings.
Yes, and then after that, clean out the races with brake cleaner,
and then reapck the ebarings with a high grade grease, I used
TRI-FLOW, and the imporvement was VERY noticable !!!
I'll post the pic's soon.
RWhitfi647
>and then reapck the ebarings with a high grade grease, I used
>TRI-FLOW, and the imporvement was VERY noticable !!!
I agree, I did both. I happened to have a little bit of slick 50 on hand so I
used that. It moves so nice now I didn't even mind much that the moon never
peeked out of the clouds as I chased it anyway.
Roger
mark dambrosio
with Scott's method of lubing, and alleviating binding of the bearings.
I, by no means profess to have more knowegde about Losmandy mounts than
owner/manufacturer himself. Scott is highly knowledgeable, knows his
products in, and out, and is a very nice person to boot. I highly
recommend all of his products. He will bend over backwards to see that
you are 100% satisfied with his products. All of the mounts that Scott
make are all relatively easy to disassemble, and maintain, and lube,
(Including the HGM-200 which i have owned). I just think it's wise to
take a few more additional minutes to do the job correctly. I'm sure
Scott would agree. These mounts are worth the little extra time
involved. It will pay off. Regular care, cleaning, maintenence,
proper adjustment, and lubing will keep these mounts in tip-top shape,
and looking, and performing like new for many years to come. Mark
Peter Moreton
>
>
Mark, I think I understand now. My G-11 is badged from 'Celestron', and
only has one bolt on either side of the Alt axis. I guess I need to
apply the 'two bolt' fix, and re-lube the bearings. Thanks for the
clarification.
--
Peter Moreton,