The food is always going to be the real star. Most of my food is colorful, which means that the supporting cast of tableware has to let the food shine. Our marble kitchen countertops provide a bright neutral background for most of our photography. Plates and bowls, are typically neutral whites and light grays with a bit of texture. Smaller items are where I bring in bright pops of color, like tiny colored bowls or a stripe on a napkin.
This little striped red plate was one of the first vintage plates I bought when I started the blog, yet I had never figured out how to make its strong red stripe look good with food. This was the last shot I did for the book and the plate finally got its moment. I feel like it brought the perfect amount of Italian flare to these crispy butternut squash arancini risotto balls.
I plan to manly print High temp stuff like PC, PETCF and PACF. I am sure to also print some ABS,ASA, PETG and PLA but that will be less often and I can print all of these on my Ender 5 Plus when the X1 is running other items.
I have also watched many videos regarding plates but none seem to show any Polycarbonate being run. So based on my needs above, what if any extra build plates should I add to my order? Also open to buying alternative plates from other vendors.
I would add the Textured PEI plate, since this this pretty well magic for PLA, and handles most PETG. The engineering plate is going to work for the higher temp stuff, and perhaps some of the more recalcitrant PETG works.
@MARCWWEBSTER The engineering plate is the reverse side of the cool plate - see store, accessories, plates. Bambu Cool Plate Bambu Lab EU (cool plate is just a sticker on one side of the engineering plate)
I am looking to upgrade to an X1C from an Ender 3 and I want to understand the X1C plate options. There is a lot of confusing terminology on the wiki and X1C spec web pages, plus lots of misinformation on other parts of these forums.
The bed of the printer is magnetic and you place different kind of flexible steel plates onto it as printing surface. Each plate is for different materials or offers ease of use functions like requiring no glue for adhesion.
To your questions yes, all of that is true. The printer though comes with a Cool plate, so already has a Cool plate sticker attached.
Beside the plates mentioned, there is also the textured PEI plate which is directly coated on both sides the same and has no removable stickers.
I think initially I will start with printing PLA/PETG with the Cool/Engineering Plate (depending on material) or the (accessory) Bambu Dual-Sided Textured PEI Plate. Get proficient with those, then figure out what I want to use for higher temp materials.
I did not understand the principle of plates and adhesive plates. The X1-C comes with one cool plate side and another engineering plate side, but is the cool plate just glued ? Another question, to print ABS do I just have to flip the plate on the engineering side and heat it to 90 without risking damaging the cool side?
Thanks for your help.
Maybe I'm just being dumb, but I can't seem to figure this one out. I have a large project that will need multiple parts, built over multiple prints and build plates. I can currently import the stl into the slicer and export a G-Code, one plate at a time.
On June 1, 2023, Act 41 was signed into law. Among other things, Act 41 amends multiple sections of codified law to eliminate the annual (or biennial) validation sticker that previously went on license plates.
If you are on active duty, and a Vermont resident, the military extension validates your existing Vermont Driver's License for up to 4 years from the date it would normally expire. While it is necessary for the Department to send notice of all expiring licenses, you may disregard such notice if you have obtained a military extension.
"Safety organizations" are groups that provide police and fire protection, rescue squads, the Vermont National Guard, organizations required to respond to public emergencies, and amateur radio operators licensed by the U.S. Federal Communications Commission. To qualify for a special organization plate, safety organizations must have at least 100 in-state members in good standing.
We will mail you a plate surrender receipt (form FS-6T) as well as a refund check, if applicable. DMV will mail these to the address on the registration. If the address on your registration is not current, change your address before you mail your license plates. If you are moving, you must also file a change of address with the United States Postal Service so that your mail is properly forwarded to your new address.
Businesses: If the registration is in a business name and the address has changed, be sure to submit a change of address with the United States Postal Service so your receipt is forwarded to you.
We use the mail postmark date as the date that you surrendered your plates. Please allow 21 days to receive your FS-6T receipt. If you do not receive a FS-6T receipt, please contact the DMV.
County motor vehicle offices will charge you a $1 fee to process the surrender. If another person surrenders your plates for you, make sure that the person gives you the FS-6T receipt for your records.
If you are looking to surrender license plates no longer in use, or replace license plates that have been lost, stolen, or damaged, read the information in the sections below. Information on how to transfer license plates when changing vehicles is also located below. If you want to find out more about standard issue or specialized license plates, please go to Plate Types.
When you change vehicles, you can transfer your plates to the new vehicle so long as the vehicle is registered in the same name as the previous vehicle and the vehicles are the same class, i.e. car to car, truck to truck.
All Rhode Island vehicle registrations are subject to excise taxes with the City or Town the vehicle is registered in or garaged at. Also, in accordance with RI General Law Title 31 Chapter 47 (RIGL 31-47), known as the Motor Vehicle Reparations Act, all registered vehicles in RI are required to maintain financial security or active liability auto insurance for the duration of the registration. To avoid excise taxes and insurance revocation fines, registrations must be cancelled at the conclusion of the vehicle's use.
Plates may be cancelled using the Drop Box located within each DMV Branch. Please include the Affidavit for Cancellation of Registration form with your plates. The Drop Box is only accessible during normal branch hours.
For the safety and convenience of those Rhode Islanders who may not have access to a computer or the internet, the Rhode Island DMV allows plates to be mailed in for cancellation by sending them through Certified Mail to: RI DMV, ATTN: Plate Office, 600 New London Avenue Cranston, RI 02920
The plates keep radiated heat away from your tender ball joint boots and help direct cooling air where it's needed on the disk. There are likely other important reasons but those two alone should convince you to keep them in place.
Radiated heat would only be a problem if you got the brakes very hot and then parked the car, then the heat may effect your ball joint boots and/or CV boots. If the car continues to move after hard braking I don't see how that heat will effect these part as the motion of the air will continue to keep these part cool. I have raced both FWD and RWD cars and have never seen any damage occur to these parts and I always remove the "splash shields". That is the correct term to call them, not dust shields. The factories install them to keep mud & snow from the brake rotors & calipers.
Water splashing on a hot rotor does not warp them. Try putting water in a very hot frying pan and see what happens, the water just "dances" on the surface as it turns into steam. You would have to dunk the whole rotor into water to have an effect.
I race in the rain or shine. A little water does not hurt naked rotors that are glowing red hot. It does cake everything in a rusty haze of metallic pad dust that sticks to painted surfaces like power coating though. It also might negatively effect rubber/plastic stuff in the very near vicinity but I doubt it. I know it does not bother rod ends or ABS wiring.
94-96 9C1 Caprices had special backing plates on the front with little scoops on them that directed air from the 9C1 specific chin spoiler to the rotors to cool them... so sometimes they do something besides keep debris off of the rotors...
Like jimbbski said, splash shields to keep water away from brakes. All my track cars get them removed. I have noticed a difference in pedal feel while driving in the rain with them off. So they do something.
from the OE side, consider this: if i could eliminate two part numbers from the bill of materials for my vehicle, plus the associated cost and weight savings from deleting those parts, i'd be a berkeleying hero.
the reasons OE's use them have all been touched on by previous posts. it's a combination of splash and gravel /dirt protection, thermal protection for suspension parts (don't want to liquidate all the ball joint / tie rod end grease or burn off the boots), and airflow management.
If they are there for the betterment of the backside of the disk, then someone please explain why when I do brakes, the outside of the disc is perfectly smooth, and the inside is scratched to the point where the rotor is scrap!
That's because the caliper pins siezed and the pads rusted to the hangers so the outboard pad never moves and the inboard pad barely moves and when it does it stays there and drags and wears super fast so you need to replace pads/rotors/calipers again.
Just need to point out that many heavy trucks do not have them(mostly drums that I have seen), and I have never seen a street bike with them. Some dirt bikes come with a plastic cover but I raced hare scrambles for years and the brakes worked fine in all conditions. I would drag the brakes a bit coming out of water to heat them up and dry them out. And with regard to heat, how often do brakes in typical city highway service on a passenger vehicle heat up to a high degree? I would guess not too often.
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