Heaven 5.12d

[Chloe Sarnoff]

In2006, Dean Potter made the first ever free solo ascent of Ron Kauk's amazing route Heaven (5.12d/5.13a) on Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite.Filmed by Brad Lynch and Eric Perlman. Produced by Dean Potter. For more of Potter's incredible Yosemite feats, watch the feature documentary, Valley Uprising.

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We shared many of the same experiences, but they seemed to originate from wildly different motivations. When Dean soloed he was right on the edge and seemed to thrive there. A video of Dean free soloing Heaven (5.12d in Yosemite Valley) strikingly reveals that raw emotion: barely contained fear, or maybe just intense focus, or who knows what, really, as he sits at the base preparing. And then uncontainable joy when he tops out. Only he knows what he experienced for the 16 or so moves he made up that wildly overhanging crack.

This speaks toward his motivations: Dean was willing to take risks and pursue seemingly crazy goals because they were beautiful. He was the one who thought up the Moonwalk, an incredible short film by Reel Water Productions and Mikey Schaefer of Dean free soloing a highline on the summit of Cathedral Peak with an enormous full moon as his backdrop. The physical beauty of the places he performed inspired him to push further.

Talk about upping the ante. Last week, 26-year-old Alex Honnold completed Yosemite's hardest known free solo to date, Cosmic Debris, a 5.13b overhanging finger crack in the Valley. Apparently not satisfied, later that same day he nabbed another hard free solo when he flashed the roof crack Heaven (5.12d) with no rope.

Dean Potter was born in 1972[5][1] to an Army officer in a military hospital at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas[6] and grew up in New Hampshire. He taught himself to climb when he was in 10th grade in southern New Hampshire. He attended the University of New Hampshire, where he rowed varsity crew. Potter quit college and pursued his passion for climbing.[7]

Potter climbed many new routes and completed many solo ascents in Yosemite and Patagonia. He free-solo climbed a small part of El Capitan in Yosemite, where he pioneered a route he called Easy Rider by climbing down the slabby upper pitches of the route Lurking Fear (hardest moves rated grade 5.10a) and then traversed Thanksgiving Ledge to complete the last six pitches and six hundred feet of the route Free Rider (hardest pitch 5.11d, two pitches of 5.10d, 5.10b, 5.10a and 5.7). This was the first major section of El Capitan to be free soloed, but his path avoided the significantly more challenging climbing on what is the easiest way up El Capitan below (several 5.12 pitches, with difficulty up to 5.12d on Free Rider).[8][9]

In July 2006, Potter climbed The Reticent Wall, one of the hardest routes on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, in 34 hours and 57 minutes with Ammon McNeely and Ivo Ninov, slashing five days off the existing time.[10] Potter and Sean Leary set a new speed record for climbing up The Nose of El Capitan in November 2010. They ran up the 31-pitch route in 2 hours, 36 minutes, 45 seconds. This was twenty seconds quicker than the existing record, set the previous October by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. Potter's record was later surpassed by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds followed by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, who completed The Nose route in 1 hour 58 minutes in June 2018.[11]

Controversy surrounded Potter after his 2006 climb of Delicate Arch in Arches National Park, for which he lost his sponsorship from the Patagonia clothing company. "There wasn't any legal reason for me not to climb it," Potter said of Delicate Arch, despite well-established tradition forbidding climbing named features in the park. This incident resulted in a blanket ban on the activity within Arches National Park. Potter had previously created conflict with Park authorities by slacklining between the Three Gossips.[12][failed verification]

"I didn't see any moral reason not to climb it. I didn't hurt it,"[13] he said, though rope grooves in the soft sandstone were later found, possibly created or enhanced by the professional photographers Potter brought along to publicize the climb.[12]

Potter said he would not climb Totem Pole, the spire in Monument Valley that Navajo imbue with religious significance. Delicate Arch, despite its prominence on Utah license plates, did not have the stature of the sacred Arizona tower, he said: "I didn't see a reason why it's wrong, why we shouldn't mesh with nature."[13] An account said: "At first Potter's handler at Patagonia spread the word of his climb by calling the Salt Lake Tribune. Public outrage was immediate, though, especially in Utah, where many see Delicate Arch as a symbol for the state's wild beauty."[12]

Potter's Delicate Arch climb was memorialized in hip hop artist Kris "Odub" Hampton's song "Not All Roses," which chronicles the controversy surrounding the climb. Odub's later "Cease and Desist" responds to the cease-and-desist order that Potter's attorney sent the artist in response to "Not All Roses."[14]

Potter was also known for highlining and BASE jumping. He was introduced to slacklining by Charles Victor Tucker III, known as "Chongo", one of the first three people to highline across Lost Arrow Spire.[15] Potter completed a variety of highline-crossings without the benefit of a safety lanyard, backup line, or BASE jumping parachute. Some included lines suspended as much as 3,000 feet (910 m) above the ground in Yosemite National Park.

On May 16, 2015, Potter and Graham Hunt died attempting a proximity wingsuit flight from Taft Point above Yosemite Valley.[20][4] The route they were attempting, which they had flown before, required them to clear a small notch in a rocky ridge line. Hunt hit a side wall during the flight while Potter cleared the notch before crashing. Both died on impact.[21] Neither of them had deployed their parachutes.[22][23][24] Potter's and Graham's deaths brought the total number of BASE jumping death in U.S. national parks in 2015 to five.[25] Between the years of 2014 and 2019, there were three deaths attributed to BASE jumping in Yosemite, including this incident. [26]

In 2006, Dean Potter made the first ever free solo ascent of Ron Kauk's amazing route Heaven (5.12d/5.13a) on Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite, an 40-foot overhanging crack that starts over 2,500 feet above the Yosemite Valley floor. Heaven was first freed by Ron Kauk in the mid-90s. Other notable Potter free-solos include Separate Reality (5.11d/12a), Astroman (5.11c), and Dog's Roof (5.12b). Dean Potter is the only person to free climb Yosemite's Half Dome and El Cap in a single day. In Patagonia, he made the first ever free solo of the Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy, followed with the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, becoming the first to solo both peaks.

Zum Vergleich auch was die dem aktuellen Mainstream folgende filmische Dokumentation anbelangt, Alex Honnolds nach 2011 bereits zweite free solo Begehung vor einigen Wochen. Alex Honnold free solos Heaven.

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