Neat Video 3.2 Pro Crackl
Eleanore Bansmer
I put on my lab coat and became quite the Mad Crafting Scientist for this project while I experimented with different ratios of glue and paint to see how it affected the final outcome. I found that the amount you use definitely changes the appearance, but the moral of the story is thicker layer of glue = deep big crackles, and thinner layer of glue = fine lines and cracks. Below are my detailed results!
People are receiving my voice chat good. When only one person is talking I can hear them clear. The more people talking through each other, the more crackling choppy sound and I could no longer understand what they are saying. i have the latest drivers on my PC.
One of the problems the wooden flute player fears most is a crack, and especially a crack in the head or barrel section of the flute. This has been a major problem for the wooden flute until the invention of my New Improved Tuning Slide. Nonetheless, we still have to deal with old flutes with the problem, and many modern flutes made according to the old system. The head below, from an early 19th century Clementi C.Nicholson's Improved illustrates the problem. Incidentally, the combing on this flute head was characteristic of Nicholson's flutes, but certainly complicates any attempt at neat crack repair!
Creates some moisture in the oven which keeps the pork skin supple enough during the low temperature, slow roasting phase to allow the bubbles to form inside the skin before hardening into a crispy crackle during the final blast of high heat to form the crackling. Without some form of liquid in the roasting pan, the skin comes out like a hard, flat sheet of skin that while crispy, has very few bubbles and is tougher;
Making a pork shoulder roast with perfect, bubbly crackling from end to end is very straightforward if you ensure you follow all the steps. Do not try to speed things up by increasing the temperature, and do not skimp on salt. Just follow the recipe as written! (Pretty please ?)
At this stage, we need to use scrunched up balls of foil to prop up the pork in parts so the pork skin is as level as possible. This is because perfect pork crackle from edge to edge requires an even distribution of heat on the pork skin.
All too often, you see pork roasts and rolled pork loins with a bit of bubbly crackling on the top, some crispy but flat, really hard crackling on the sides and disappointing patches of rubbery, chewy skin.
The meat is made for slow cooking which not only means tender flesh at the end, but the skin has plenty of time to dry out during the low temperature roasting phase before cranking up the oven at the end to make the crackling bubbly and crispy
This recipe will work fine with rolled pork (ie trussed with string or netted) and Pork Neck, aka Scotch Fillet Roast (Collar Butt for those in the States) but because they are shaped like a log, this usually results in good crackle on the very top but just ok-to-mediocre crackle on the sides. Do not use this recipe for Pork Loin or Pork Tenderloin, they will dry out. For a pork belly roast, see here.
This is my go to recipe for Roast Pork. Never been able to get the crackling right until now. Having a go at Pork Boneless Leg tonight, sorry Nagi it was cheaper than the shoulder pork. Might give it a go using some Beer instead of Wine. Will let you know how it goes.
Long story short, from the product's user : "I was out for my first road ride in awhile and as I was riding away from a stop sign I heard a mysterious crunch and my left hand became unweighted. I looked down to find my beloved Zipp B2 carbon bars fracture under my own power. This event was even more surprising because the bike has never even fallen over let alone been involved in a crash."
The fracture was to the left of the stem clamping plate. Someone did a high resolution blow up of the image and found a neat crack running at the bottom of the handlebar.
Is this why Zipp recommends running their own carbon stems with these bars? Or is it just another avenue to make more money. Both I would guess..(?)
Since he said the bike never took a fall, we might speculate that this is a clamp over tightening related issue? Its still scary. Imagine if this would happen at a race or while going downhill. Sheesh.
Photos courtesy of Weightweenies
As mentioned above, while mixing the egg in you have to take into consideration to mix in just as much egg to get a shiny, pipeable consistency. The mixture should not be too firm, nor too runny. To be honest with you, piping eclairs requires some practice and once you make 5-10x batches you will be able to pipe the dough much neater. Just keep practicing, I promise it is worth it!
Move the dough into a pastry bag fitted with French star nozzle tip (0.5cm / 1.3cm in diameter). Believe me, you will have to use a star tip, and won't get the same crack-free, neat-looking result with any other piping nozzle, particularly do not use round tip for piping.
Once you are done with piping, gently dust the eclairs with icing sugar, this again helps to achieve neat results after baking. But, before jumping into baking, there is one more step. You must freeze the piped dough, this will ensure an even rise without crack on the eclair shells. I find it is enough to freeze the dough for 30 minutes while you are heating up the oven, but the longer the better. If you are doing it the first time, freeze them properly for 1-2hours. Please do not skip this step.
As mentioned above a French star nozzle tip is one of those super cheap and easy investments that can make or break this eclair recipe. If you want to max your chance of neat, burst-free eclairs, I definitely recommend using a star nozzle tip. There are different sizes available for start nozzle tips, a inch / 1.3cm diameter is a good one to use in my view! Please note that when you pipe the eclairs, they might look very skinny, however, they will expand during baking, so in fact, they should look skinny.
These Apple Chips are a Mr NQN proof snack and is one of those treats that leaves no trace. Literally because they are so good they'll just disappear. I won't lie, these are a bit of work, mostly in the waiting where you steep the apple slices overnight. The syrup infuses into the apple and you bake them for a few hours where they become as crisp as a potato chip or crackling. Usually dried apple slices have some moisture to them and they aren't as crispy as crackling but not these little babies. Instead of deep frying then, they're given crispness from the sugar syrup and before you point out that we're simply exchanging one evil for another (oil for sugar), the sugar syrup mostly gets strained away. However, you can also use this to sweeten home made cordials or even in cooking-I used some to sweeten a batch of cooked oatmeal for Mr NQN's breakfast.
I was working on a belt, tooled it, dyed it with fiebing's spirit, antiqued it with eco-flow, sealed it with Neat-Lac, and then let dry. I was in the process of bending the end loop for riveting the buckle on, and the grain side of the leather just cracked. There's several hours of work (fairly complex tooling design) down the drain. Now, here's my question, and I'm guessing I could figure this out with enough experimentation but ya'll are awesome: What can I do to prevent this amount of brittleness? I have a bottle of prime neatsfoot oil, for conditioning, but can I use that before dyeing? before tooling? Cased or un-cased? Post dye, pre-finish? I've been scouring my books, but they don't really indicate what's up with this process. Also, should I condition the flesh-side? I've also noticed that my projects have a tendency to curl. I figure that this is because of the causticity of the Neat-Lac, but I've heard that is the product to use if you really want something that has a good seal against water, and most of the projects I am making are intended as everyday wear and I want them to hold up. I also really dig the high-gloss finish. I think that when I have a little bit more cash I'm going to invest in some super-sheen as well and try that, but for now all I have is the Neat-Lac. Help?
In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with the dyeing and finishing process you used, but a light application of neatsfoot oil would definitely help condition the leather. I'd do it after dyeing and before the final finish. And I wouldn't worry about conditioning the flesh side.
To be honest, almost all of the leather I work with is old, and I was afraid that might have something to do with it. Generally I bend the piece to check for stress factors pre-casing. I think that the neatsfoot oil might solve the problem, I was mostly concerned with when to apply it, and whether or not it might mess with the Neat-Lac. It seemed that after dyeing seemed the logical time, and I am glad to have that confirmed.
I fired this piece tonight. The outer yellow glaze is on we mixed ourselves, in class two weeks ago. I used a White glaze on the inside (I got a really neat crackle finish on the inside). It still needs a bit more cleaning - I will post a photo of it after it has been scrubbed and rinsed a few times to get rid of the brown marks left by the firing process.
Even if you cure your concrete slowly as described above, a large slab, such as a patio or sidewalk, may still crack as a result of concrete shrinkage that occurs as temperatures change and water is used up in the hydration process. Because of the natural movement of the soil beneath, concrete slabs will eventually crack. That's why control joints are crucial. These intentional weak spots are cut into the slab down to about a quarter of its depth in order to anticipate and direct any future cracks. Odds are that any cracks will happen in these weakest parts.
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