Window Templates

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Adam Wied

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Nov 22, 2016, 11:00:43 AM11/22/16
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Hi all,

Do any of you out there happen to have CAD files or any other version of window templates? The PO had cut windows to his liking and they didn't match up to the slots very well. Also didn't help they were so UV damaged that they just shattered apart during removal.

I guess you could say I'm trying to avoid taking the time to make my own templates :) Really appreciate any help!

Thanks,
Adam

Raymond McCormack

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Nov 22, 2016, 11:07:03 AM11/22/16
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If you can take a good digital picture of the window, with a tape measure laying under it I can import into solidworks and create cad file for you.

 

Regards,
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Ray McCormack
USCG Licensed Master Captain REF#3748275
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Joseph Shacat

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Nov 22, 2016, 9:45:16 PM11/22/16
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You might want to use a thick paperboard to trace out templates for the inside of the bevel and the outside of the bevel, and then shrink each one down by about 1/8" or so to give room for the caulking. Your local plastic supplier should be able to cut out the dimensions based on the outside template, and then match the bevel based on the inside template. 

Not all the boats are the same. On my boat (hull #86), the side windows are connected into one long window. Many other boats have 2 windows on each side. 

When it comes to actual installation, I wouldn't drill holes in the new windows. There is so much flex in the topsides that it's very easy for fasteners to cause the window to crack at the mounting holes. I installed new windows about a year ago using the 3M VHB tape and Dow Corning 795 sealant. The windows have held up very well to conditions up to 35 knots and hours of pounding upwind in 6 foot seas. There are many articles on the internet about how to use these products to install windows. This requires first filling all the holes in the fiberglass with epoxy/filler, which only takes a few hours. 

Joseph

Andy Schwenk

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Nov 23, 2016, 12:22:31 PM11/23/16
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Jesus where do you sail in 35 kts and 6' seas? Sounds brutal....How do you find crew?

Andy Schwenk
Owner

Northwest Rigging
360 293 1154 (shop)
360 770 7035 (mobile)
620 30th Street
Anacortes, WA 98221
USA
An...@nwrigging.com


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Joseph Shacat

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Nov 23, 2016, 6:05:04 PM11/23/16
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Andy, great question. Sailing in Hawaii, we get it all. Channel crossings are often upwind slogs, but at least the water is warm. And that's the price you have to pay in order to get the sleigh ride downwind. 

For the record, the 35 knot winds and the 6 foot seas were on separate days. Crossing from Kauai to Oahu we had 25-30 knots plus large seas for a good 8 hours, mostly at night. 

Joseph
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Adam Wied

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Nov 28, 2016, 9:17:07 AM11/28/16
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Thanks for the info. Next time I'm down at the boat I'll grab some paperboard and make a few quick templates. I too have the long side windows and like the idea of no fasteners showing/causing problem so I'll give the 3M tape and sealant method a try.

Adam

Adam Wied

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Apr 10, 2017, 4:54:38 PM4/10/17
to Santa Cruz 27 National Class Association
If in the future any of you need to replace your windows, without old windows as templates, I have compiled CAD files for all windows on SC27's with the long single windows on port and starboard sides (Although safe to assume top and front remain same). Feel free to contact me and I can send a zip file. The panels are intended for 3M VHB tape so no holes are present. If you'd like to use fasteners just add in your hole pattern.

Since our boats can very from one to the next these can at least be used as a starting point and modified for proper fit :)

Rick Raduziner

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Sep 2, 2018, 2:49:28 PM9/2/18
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Hi Adam,  I have hull #76 1977 with the two window side configuration, two cabin top windows and one fore cabin window.  Can you please send me the templates that you created? It would be a huge help.  Also, How thick should the windows be?  Is there an upgrade plexiglass that is stronger than the originals?  Thanks, Rick (Lickety Split) 530-308-1628 and ri...@tahoerick.com

John S

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Sep 3, 2018, 11:36:08 PM9/3/18
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Hi Rick,

You must have one of the later double window boats. I have hull 92(?) from '78 and she has the single side window.

The original windows were made of 3/16 inch polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is stronger than acrylic (plexiglass) but it gets hazed in a few years. (You see this in auto headlight lenses all the time.) When I redid my windows I elected to use polycarbonate rather than acrylic because the recessed wells the window glass sits in means that using a thicker material would look a bit odd. If the windows were mounted flat on the cabin side like Express 27 windows I likely would have elected to use 1/4 inch acrylic.

I think the cad files will likely be a big help but when I redid my own windows I used the originals as templates and it was still a fussy process getting things to set just right. Not a terrible ordeal but I have also replaced windows on an Express and it was a much easier since the window glass did not need to fit into a beveled recess. It was just cut to shape and use a router to round the edge and install.

Good luck.

John

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Rick Raduziner

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Sep 3, 2018, 11:44:28 PM9/3/18
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Thanks John,  Can you send me the zip file that you mentioned?  Your thickness detail was helpful.  I hull 76. An earlier model built in 77.  


Best Regards,
Rick Raduziner
CA/Broker dre01033083
NV/Salesperson
c. 530.308.1628   




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John S

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Sep 4, 2018, 1:36:25 PM9/4/18
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Hi Rick,

I think Adam has the CAD files for the windows. I just used my old ones as templates.

John

Rick Raduziner

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Oct 22, 2018, 11:35:06 PM10/22/18
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We installed one.  Never received any templates though.  Quite a process.  We used tape to over the window material to create a template. Then used a table saw to cut and then rounded the corners.  Like you said, had to fuss with it to get it just right.  One down and 6 to go.  We will tackle a couple of more next spring. :-). I am learning a lot. 

Thanks for the notes,
Rick

Adam Wied

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Dec 5, 2018, 10:19:57 AM12/5/18
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Hey Rick, sorry you never received the templates I made. I sent them directly through email, maybe they got placed in spam? :/ Anyway, let me know if you're still looking for them! Sounds like you did at least one, but I can send the others for reference if you'd like.

Adam

Paul Kidman

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Apr 29, 2025, 12:51:13 PMApr 29
to Santa Cruz 27 National Class Association
Following up on this old thread regarding windows.   Would Adam or anyone else have the window CAD files they could send to me?   Attempted to re-bed a window on Slingshot hull 136 to address a leak and it cracked during removal, so replacement is in order.  I'm planning to switch to VHB tape for window mounting.

Any details on using VHB tape would be helpful, such as the exact 3M VHB product number, the width of tape used, and any application tips.   It is clear that VHB tape is applied around the entire outside edge each window opening.  However, for the long side windows, how exactly is VHB tape applied to the center support pillar?  A single vertical strip down the middle? Tape on the forward and aft edges of the pillar?  Maybe no tape on the pillar?   Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul

Ian Sprenger

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Apr 29, 2025, 3:03:38 PMApr 29
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Paul,

No templates unfortunately, but I did replace all my windows with smoked acrylic and VHB tape back in 2018. They have held up incredibly well with plenty of abuse in the ocean, including going to Hawaii last summer. 

Materials: 3M VHB 4991 3/8" width, Dow Corning Dowsil 795 building sealant in black, and West Systems Six10 for screw holes.

I used the old windows as templates and a friend (who owns a glass company) meticulously cut and sanded for a perfect (slightly undersized) fit. Fill the old screw holes and ensure the bonding surface is fair. Apply VHB to the inside edge of the window frame to allow for space for sealant on the outer edge. I left the paper on the acrylic for easy cleanup post sealing. I indexed each side with masking tape with a mark on the acrylic and cabin top for alignment. Peel tape backing (tweezers help), clean bonding surface with alcohol, line it up and commit (you only get one shot). Apply direct pressure for a few minutes. On larger windows I have taped and sealed at the same time, but for this job I did not want to risk introducing sealant onto the VHB bond. A friend and a few beers make this less stressful!

For the taping pattern I recommend the longest continuous runs of VHB, as this will also act as a seal in the event the sealant degrades. I VHB taped inside the center pillar nearest to the edge of the interior frame and several more runs in between. I think I also added extra pieces in the corners where space was available. Peeling the backing can be a little tedious, so longer pieces are better, but you also want as much tape as allowed by the frame. Make sure to preserve a border in the frame beyond the VHB for sealant. 

I then masked the cabin around the window frames and injected 795 all the way around. By slightly undersizing the windows in the frame, along with 90 mil of space the tape creates, a sharp tip on the 795 in a caulking gun will push the sealant in nicely. Tool it smooth and then pull the masking and protective paper on the acrylic.

The windows sit just slightly proud to the rest of the cabin top and look sharp!

Also, don't heat treat the edges of the acrylic. I have had those start to craze and crack after only a year on another boat.

Enjoy!

-Ian


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Adam Yuret

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Apr 29, 2025, 3:15:25 PMApr 29
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You can also take your old broken window and tape it or glue it back together, take that to a Tap Plastics and ask them to duplicate it with whatever modifications you want. I've had to redo my windows several times and Tap has been great for that. I'm going to have them redo my sliding hatch next and make some replacement VHMW for what's left of my deck teak (the aft trim and the trim around the sliding hatch) 

Cheers, 

Adam Yuret


On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 9:51 AM Paul Kidman <pkki...@gmail.com> wrote:

Adam Viguers

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Apr 29, 2025, 3:34:52 PMApr 29
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When I replaced my windows, I glued them in with sika flex - no screws.
A little tricky, but much cleaner look.

Regards,


Adam Viguers

On Apr 29, 2025, at 12:15 PM, Adam Yuret <adam....@gmail.com> wrote:



jetb...@frontier.com

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Apr 29, 2025, 10:35:33 PMApr 29
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I bought bedding putty from West Marine to use under window plastic and between teak, metal, and fiberglass.

Like plumber’s putty, it’s waterproof and provides a great seal that keeps water away from the bolts or screws.

SikaFlex or any good 50 yr silicone sealant works for the window replacement, but I’ve always believed that marine bedding putty is better when you’re exposing the joint to heat, cold, sun, rain, salt, etc….

 

I also have a full set of wood templates for all sc27 windows.   I won’t let them out of sight without a fully refundable deposit being left with me if you want to borrow them. 

 

 

John Beebe

jetb...@frontier.com  (checked nightly only)

jetb...@frontier.com

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Apr 29, 2025, 10:37:28 PMApr 29
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Here’s what I use for bedding anything next to fiberglass.

 

 

 

From: jetb...@frontier.com <jetb...@frontier.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2025 7:35 PM
To: 'sc2...@googlegroups.com' <sc2...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: RE: Window Templates

 

I bought bedding putty from West Marine to use under window plastic and between teak, metal, and fiberglass.

Like plumber’s putty, it’s waterproof and provides a great seal that keeps water away from the bolts or screws.

SikaFlex or any good 50 yr silicone sealant works for the window replacement, but I’ve always believed that marine bedding putty is better when you’re exposing the joint to heat, cold, sun, rain, salt, etc….

 

I also have a full set of wood templates for all sc27 windows.   I won’t let them out of sight without a fully refundable deposit being left with me if you want to borrow them. 

 

 

John Beebe

jetb...@frontier.com  (checked nightly only)

 

 

 

From: sc2...@googlegroups.com <sc2...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Adam Viguers
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2025 12:34 PM
To: sc2...@googlegroups.com
Cc: sc2...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Window Templates

 

When I replaced my windows, I glued them in with sika flex - no screws.

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