BR Blue Class 121 Add-On Livery [Patch]
Mirthe Luria
The goal of this section is to give you a simple explanation of the parts of your boat and how they function and operate. Getting to know your boat inside and out is the first step to caring for your inflatable. See below for a brief list of terms and parts on your HYSIDE:
The inflation valve (Leafield C7) and the Pressure Release Valve (Leafield A6). They are very durable and simple to use. Pre-2000s Hysides were equipped with Metal Military Valves and Halkey-Roberts Pressure Release valves. We still stock these as well.
Push the male/threaded part of the valve through the valve hole opening in the floor or tube. Grasp the valve base firmly and thread the valve together making sure that the boat fabric does not twist as the valve is tightened. Hand tighten the valve, then finish tightening with the provided valve wrench after the tube is inflated to operating pressure. Removing the valve would be the exact opposite, just remember that the female base in the boat is free floating!
Your pressure release valve is a great little insurance policy for your floor. Designed to release pressure at 2.0PSI, if working properly the PRV will help prevent costly damage to your floor from drastic pressure changes or over- inflation. But the thing is, it has to be working properly!
The main difference between a standard and self bailing floor is that standard (non self-bailing) floors are sealed to the outer tubes, whereas the self-bailing floor is inflated and is either laced in or glued in, with holes installed around the perimeter, allowing the water to exit. The floor of a self bailing raft is a wide flat inflated chamber. When inflated, the floor is about 5 inches thick, so the top surface of the floor is above the surface of the water. When water splashes into the raft, it flows across the floor, down over the edge of the floor, and out through the lacing.
Most of our raft line-up nowadays is self-bailing. Our entire Kayak line is self-bailing, as well as our Outfitter and Outfitter Pro Raft series. Running extreme whitewater is safer and easier with a self-bailing floor and other benefits include a dry floor for passengers as well as a more firm floor to stand on or fish from.
Your boat consists of multiple air chambers. When inflating your raft or boat, fill each air chamber in a clockwise pattern around the boat, just until the craft takes shape. Then work your way back around the boat filling the chambers to the pressure level indicated for that particular boat.
Each chamber has a cone shaped baffle that separates it from the others. Maximizing pressure on a single baffle can easily damage it; therefore equal amounts of pressure should be applied to each chamber until you reach maximum pressure.
To inflate your boat, a hand, foot or electric pump can be used. A low pressure pump (designed specifically for inflatables) is best, as we recommend a max pressure of 2.0 psi in the floor (Self-bailing models only) and 3.0 psi in the tubes. If the floor of the boat is inflatable, add air until the pressure relief valve releases a small amount of air. Use caution when inflating the floor! The pressure release valve can only release air so fast, so if the air flow is faster than the release of pressure, you could cause damage.
A rule of thumb for gauging the proper pressure for the tubes is to push down with your thumb at the center of the tube. If you can deflect about a half an inch from the top plane of the tube, it will be close to 3.0 psi.
Be aware that air temperature causes changes in the air pressure in the inflatable chambers. Many boaters fill their boats in the morning when the air is cool, but as the temperature increases over the course of the day, the air in the tubes expands, increasing the pressure. If a tube or chamber becomes too pressurized, it can explode if struck by a sharp object. You may have to let some air out at different points throughout the day if you operate your inflatable in the hot sun.
Use a large scrub pad with handle and work in four foot sections. Rinse the boat off with a power washer then spray the cleaner on and wait five minutes. Using a circular motion, scrub the area and then fully rinse immediately. The boat will appear to be faded, but a coat of 303 Protectant will bring back the shine.
Originally intended by American Propeller Co to protect rubber and vinyl airplane parts from high altitude UV, it is ideally suited for inflatable protection. Given that Hypalon is used to coat high power wires and reservoirs, it has incredible UV resistance. We have found that 303 helps reduce pigment fading, leaves a layer that is easier to clean off dirt and prolongs the life of the boat.
It is suggested that you apply 303 prior to storing your boats for the winter. Besides the fact that the boats will be ready for use in the Spring and Summer, it can soften the areas that cause fold marks in some fabrics.
Over time, moisture inside the tubes can break down the glue joints, so it needs to be removed promptly. The obvious signs of trapped moisture are hearing it sloshing around or rubbing the two sides of a deflated tube together and if it feels slippery/slimey inside, you probably have old moisture inside (part of a routine inspection).
Wipe down, partially deflate (1 PSI) and cover with tarp. If this is not possible, completely deflate the boat and be sure it is dry and clean before rolling and storing. If you plan to store your inflatable boat on a trailer, be sure there are no bends or kinks in the boat.
Because punctures are the main concern with inflatable boats, it is important to protect it from sharp objects. Use care when transporting knives, fishing hooks, and other objects that could puncture the skin of the inflatable boat. Watch for sharp metal or branches when navigating the waters, as well as avoid dragging the boat over rocks and debris when landing on a beach.
Make sure all valve caps are screwed on prior to rolling. Roll the boat as tight as possible, cam strap it secure and package in the smallest box possible (if shipping). This will avoid damage during transit and will save on freight if you are shipping it. If too big for a box, wrap the boat in a tarp, canvas, or HYSIDE Boat bag. Be sure not to load other equipment on top of the boat that could potentially wear on your boat.
Moving the boats has been known to cause more damage than usage on the river unless closely monitored. Using the handles as tie-downs, abrasive ropes rubbing on the tubes, and the biggest culprit of all, tossing the boats to the ground!
The aging of a boat will always produce frayed ends from the nylon base cloth. You can cut the ends off with scissors and then finish it off by waving a heat gun over the clipped area. This step not only removes them from sight, but reduces the chances of future fraying.
Most Outfitters would agree that over 90% of the wear and tear of rafts occurs off the river. How you care for your rafts and what systems you use for transporting and taking your raft in and out of the water will determine the life expectancy of your fleet. In direct proportion to the above will be your profits, down-time, maintenance expenditures and stress level. The following information has been broken up into four categories:
During the off-season, rafts may be stored inflated or deflated. It is best not to roll up the raft during the off-seasons as this may eventually cause cracks in the material. When deflating, open the air valves and deflate one raft on top of another. Do not suck the air out and close the valve, this again may cause cracks in the material. A word of caution: Do not store on cement (because of moisture) and put plenty of bait out for mice and rats (they love to chew on and nest in your rafts),
REMEMBER: Your boats are a reflection of your operation. Leaky, beat up, less than topnotch boats will result in lost customers, poor guide morale and most importantly, less cash in the bank. The results of a daily maintenance schedule and a year-end repair and refurbish program will be boats which impress your clients, boats which will impart confidence to your guides and boats whose repair costs will hit you a little at a time, rather than all at once.
Many manufacturers recommend that you bring your boat to a professional for larger repairs, because it can be difficult to get a good seal with a patch. However, if you have a small puncture, want to add-on D-rings/Footcones, or are in a situation where you need to make immediate repairs, follow the directions below
Sometimes, even with the best care and safety precautions, your inflatable boat can develop a leak. Unless you have a major and obvious accident, it may be difficult to determine the location of the leak. Never assume there is only one leak. Check the entire boat with soapy water to be sure before setting out on the water. More often than not, a leak comes from a loose valve or an old patch that was applied incorrectly.
If it leaks from the center, something is holding the spring open (usually silt/sand). Remove the valve, wash with soapy water, making sure to depress the spring several times to free any debris. Once you re-install the valve, check for leaks again. Refer to the Valve section for complete instructions to install/remove.
Pulling off an old patch is identical to replacing a broken handle or D-ring. You simply take the heat gun and wave it over a corner at low heat until you are able to lift the corner with channel lock pliers. Then work the heat gun down the patch until you pull the whole thing off. Be careful not to apply too much heat to one location or it will blister.
If you have a loose edge on a footcone, handle or D-ring patch and wish to tack it down, pull up on the loose edge until you find good adhesion. If more than of the surface area pulls up easily it will be necessary to completely reinstall the item.
The repair kit includes everything you need for a solid repair on or off the water. It includes plenty of fabric (color of your boat and black), a 4 oz Stabond 2 part adhesive, brush, sandpaper and a Leafield Valve Tool.
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