San Francisco is the
birthplace of two of the oldest chocolate makers in America: Ghirardelli and Guittard. Both have their roots in the Gold Rush. Both their companies still make their
chocolate in the Bay Area today. Here
are the stories of these two pioneer companies and their founders.
Ghirardelli
The Ghirardelli Chocolate
Company is the oldest chocolate company in America. Domingo Ghirardelli was born in Italy, near
Genoa, the son of an importer of exotic food.
At age 20, Domingo went to South America to work in the coffee and spice
trade. He opened a store in Lima, Peru
selling coffee, cocoa powder and spices.
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Domingo Ghirardelli 1817 - 1894 Photo: San Francisco Public Library |
Domingo’s neighbor in Lima
was James Lick, a piano and cabinet maker from Pennsylvania. In 1848, Lick sailed to San Francisco to
invest in land speculation. It’s said
that he arrived with $3,000 in gold coins sewn into his suit and 600 pounds of
Ghiradelli’s chocolate. He quickly sold
all Domingo’s chocolate and wrote to his friend to come to San Francisco and
bring more.
Domingo arrived in California in 1849. First he went
up to the gold fields to try his hand at mining. Soon he found it more profitable to open a
store in Stockton, selling liquor, coffee, spices and his chocolate to other
miners. He quickly opened a second store
in San Francisco. In 1851, both stores
burned down within days of each other, and Domingo was forced to start over.
In 1852, Ghirardelli opened a
confectionary on Portsmouth Square at the corner of Washington and Kearny
Streets selling cocoa and other treats.
In 1893, Domingo Ghirardelli moved the company to the waterfront, taking
over the old Pioneer Woolen Mill.
Ghirardelli died the next year, but his sons continued on. Over time, they
expanded the complex, adding housing for workers and additional warehouse
space.
The Ghirardelli complex was
undamaged by the 1906 Earthquake and Fire.
Chocolate-making continued here until the early 1960s when the company
was bought by Golden Grain, makers of Rice-a-Roni, “the San Francisco treat.”
They moved the company across the Bay to San Leandro, just south of Oakland. Ghirardelli Chocolate is still produced
there, but today the company is owned by the Swiss company Lindt, makers of
Lindor Truffles and other luxury confections.
Guittard
Guittard Chocolate, started on Sansome Street
in 1868, is the oldest continuously family-run chocolate company in the
country.
Etienne Guittard came to San Francisco during
the Gold Rush, hoping to trade chocolate from his uncle’s factory in Tournus,
France, for mining supplies. Finding that selling chocolate was more profitable
than mining, he sailed back to France to master the art of chocolate
making. He returned to San Francisco in
1868 and opened his first shop selling chocolate, as well as coffee, tea and
spices. By 1900, Guittard was well known
for his popular cocoa drink served at the Cliff House.
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Etienne Guittard 1838 - 1899 Photo courtesy Guittard Chocolate Company |
The Sansome Street store burned during the
earthquake and fire in 1906, and afterward Etienne’s son Horace moved the
business to Main St. with the help of the Brandenstein family of MJB Coffee. In the 1950s, displaced by the construction of
the Embarcadero Freeway, the company moved to its current location in
Burlingame.
The fourth generation entered the business in
the 1970s, including current company president Gary Guittard. He joined the family business after working
as a food broker and doing marketing and sales for a bakery supply company. Today the fourth and fifth generations of the
Guittard family work together, alongside many life-long employees. They provide chocolate for consumers, bakers
and some famous candy makers, including See’s Candy.
Guittard is always thinking of new ways to dish
up deliciousness, whether it’s working with pastry chefs and confectioners,
coming up with a new blend, or simply serving up “liquid chocolate bars” at the
2013 Outside Lands festival. In 1978,
Real Semisweet Chocolate Chips debuted in their distinctive gold bag. In 2000, using journal entries written by
founder Etienne, Guittard introduced Collection Etienne, an artisan line of chocolate
for baking and eating.
In addition to their Burlingame headquarters,
and another facility in Fairfield, they opened the Guittard Chocolate Studio in
Los Angeles. It’s a showcase for their
products and their Guest Chef Series featuring intensive hands-on workshops
with prominent chefs, chocolatiers and bakers. Their website has more information on the
company as well as an excellent description of the process of making chocolate
at www.guittard.com.
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Posted By Gloria Lenhart to
My SF Past at 1/01/2014 01:11:00 PM