Ncs Colour Scan 2.0
Kevin
Hello,
My brand new HP Officejet 7740 scanner doesn't seem to be scanning bright highlighter-type colours like greens, yellows and pinks. I tried scanning using both HP Smart and Image Capture on my computer with the same result. It's as if the sensors in the scanner cannot detect those colours.
The scanned images says they are RGB so the colours should be repeatable since neons are visible on screen. I was wondering if the problem was in the printer/scanner software or if it actually scans in CMYK and converts (in which case neon colours wouldn't appear properly as neons cannot be printed using standard CMYK inks.) But when I took a photo of the image I was trying to scan and converted it to CMYK the colours appeared, although duller, the proper colour. The scanner seems to colour shift things to the blue side and is not very true to life. Here's an example of what I mean:
Colour comparison on artworkColour comparison on sample colours
You can see clearly that the scanner shifts yellow hues to the blue side to a point where yellow appears green and green is a teal/blue colour. For those of us (like myself) who are artists and use this to scan artwork this is a huge issue. Hopefully it can be resolved with an update to improve the way the sensors detect yellow-shifted colours, otherwise this scanner is pretty useless for artists.
Fingerprints, smudges, dust, or debris on the scanner glass, under the scanner lid, or in the document feed slot can cause lines and color bands. Clean these parts with a soft, lint-free cloth sprayed with glass cleaner.
Spray a soft, lint-free cloth with glass cleaner, then wipe the scanner glass, glass strip (if present), the white backing under the scanner lid, and the white strip under the lid (if present) until clean, dry, and streak-free.
Good suggestion. I just tried and what appears on the page is even worse than on the scan. Below is the result - to the left is the copy, to the right is the original. The yellow barely even shows up. I also printed a spectrum to see how the printer actually handles colours separately to the scanbed and it looks like it struggles with yellows in general. Anything not 100% yellow appears green.
I use Adobe Scan quite often and it takes way longer than it should beacuse I have to change colour of all pictures to "original" from "auto", it takes time in processing. I prefer original colour over the auto since I take a lot of pictures of notes and auto colour many times is too bright to read all of the text easily.
It'd be great if you could give us option to select a default preset of what colour we want. Say I select "original colour" preset for default option from preferences, then I don't need colour post processing at all.
We don't have that feature for mobile applications at present. Thank you for highlighting this to us. It's in a future enhancement pipeline. You will get an official announcement as well as a notification when this will roll out.
Sorry to resurrect this old thread but may I ask what you meant by "straight scan"? I am having similar issues with my MG7550 scanner. My friend draws a lot of pictures and asks me to scan them so she can print them out to make cards but the colours always look wrong. I have tried different scanning resolutions and editing them in Photoshop Elements but when I print them, they either come out too bright (third picture labelled BlackCatEdited) or they just look duller like they have a filter on like with the unedited, scanned image 0002.jpg. The first picture (100449.jpg) is one I took with my phone and much more shows what the image is like in real life.
As you mentioned Photoshop Elements, I'm curious if you're also a user of the Affinity software, as this forum is solely for supporting the Affinity software and its users. If you have general questions about using your scanner, or using other (non-Affinity) programs with it, this is not the right site for that discussion.
When I do a colour scan from the document feeder, the first page is skew or only part of it scans. The rest of the pages are either fine, or also skew etc. Black-and-white scans from the document feeder work fine! Also, colour scans from the flatbed (one page at a time) also work perfectly. Huh??? any ideas? I have checked and I am using the latest drivers.
The printer might go through a warm-up period. The printer lights might flash, and the carriage might move.
Wait until the warm-up period finishes and your printer is idle and silent before you proceed
If the information I've provided was helpful, give us some reinforcement by clicking the "Solution Accepted" on this Post and it will also help other community members with similar issue.
I can COPY colour fine - both from the document feeder and the flatbed. Black and whie scans perfectly and copies perfectly as well - so it is not a paper-jam type problem. it seems to be isolated to COLOUR SCANNING from the Document feeder.
If the information I've provided was helpful, give us some reinforcement by clicking the "Solution Accepted" on this Post and it will also help other community members with similar issue.
In order to correct this you have to go to the mids tab and for me usually dragging the top slider in favor of Cyan does the trick. But play with others a bit too. If you need more refining, then jump into the highs and shadows tab.
It does require some work, yes indeed. If you have people in a water scene, I have found that the skin tones are incredibility difficult to tackle. Other thing you can try, is to copy the settings from another Scene that you think nailed the conversion. A more balanced scene, with hopefully the same kind of light.
To me it looks like nlp has tried too hard to get the histogram touching the left side. Maybe try raising the BlackClip, and turn on soft whites and blacks. You could also use the Lab Fade thing, I am not usually a fan of having a raised black level but that is what the lab scan has and it definitely contributes to the softness of the image.
I do find NLP to be a little overzealous on the contrast, and am really not a fan of the highlight and shadow sliders when used to pull back. For me, using the clip tools and cropping to certain sections before converting usually does the trick.
I had a problem. I did not frame the frames and on the conversion I got a terrible blue color. The problem was within the framework. From the beginning, you need to crop the image, then take a white balance pipette (I pressed the gray sweater) and only then run the NLP program. I did it. Good luck to you.
The question of how to achieve a positive image from a colour negative file is a hot topic for many photographers, with many competing options. You can send your film to a lab and get them to scan the film after development; you can scan with a flatbed or dedicated film scanner; or you can scan with a digital camera, with a copy stand and light source.
These were shot with a Mamiya RZ67 and home developed using the Cinestill powdered C41 kit. The locations are in the Ardnamuchan area of Scotland, or in the case of the flower and chillis, my garden.
The direct output examples from VueScan (for film 1 only) tend to be flat and dull compared to either ColorPerfect or Grain2Pixel; but as I said above I would normally tweak the settings to get a little closer to the result I wanted. All three options would end up being further edited in Lightroom or Photoshop.
Knowing what I know about film labs has certainly changed the way I think about film photography. I used to miss the look of 46 C-types. Well it turns out those are all digital C-types and the look is a preset on the scanner.
An interesting comparison, thank you!. Still setting up my darkroom, so my default is still the lab scans, which are very pleasing usually, although higher resolution would be nice sometimes. I also use an Epson V800, with which I have scanned all my old negatives and slides during lockdown. So far I have just used Epsonscan, it does a good job of dust removal and colour correction for the older negatives which vary in quality and colour fading quite a lot. If any more editing is required Photoscape is very easy to use and gives me a pleasing result. Plenty of options out there!
Used to define colours of walls, carpets, furniture, textiles, etc. with one simple click. The colour information is stored in your Colour Scan, which also gives CMYK, Lightness value and RGB translations.
i have used alot of the fuji pro 400h film in my hasselblad and find it difficult to get a good scan that has a favorable coour cast/balance .... does anyone else find this? i use an epson v500, hasselblad 80mm planar lens, and usually over expose by half a stop to 1stop for shadow detail.
any ideas people ? i have seen some really nice results on this group using this film but i am on the brink of going back to kodak portra 400 as the result are better on an initial scan with out any colour manipulation.
9:30AM, 12 July 2011 PDT(permalink)
I've been having the same issues with Fuji 400h... I'm using an epson v600. It doesn't seem to scan very well for me compared to ektar and portra. Anyone have any insight or scanning tips for this film?
ages ago(permalink)
Honestly, over the passed year, I have not gotten as neutral a colour balance from my 400H as I feel that I used to. I recall getting very nice, cool blues in sunlight just a few years ago when processed at the same lab with the same scanning. But lately I feel things are warmer and pinker looking. I've been suspecting the forumla changed without notification or something.
I may just be imagining things but I've just been surprised by the results of my 400H lately also.
In order to resolve the problems above, it may require custom scanning per shot, where you set your black and white points as well as your colour balance in the preview, scan it, check it and rescan until it's close enough to balance in Photoshop. I haven't scanned any of my own 400H in a while so I don't have any particulars.
ages ago(permalink)