Generally300dpi is great for anything up to about a A1 or A2. Anything larger and the resolution requirements start to drop because the viewing distances are greater. Most artwork submitted for these large formats eg. billboards are resampled to increase the resolution and the size required. The main ingredient in all of this is a good starting resolution.
You could probably get away with blowing up a photo taken on a 35mm camera (or equivalent 24 megapixel digital camera) by that much because it starts out with a much higher resolution in the first place and so would still have about a 150 dpi resolution even after being blown up that much.
it's a site which i will order from, and they wan't the image to be in cmyk and 300dpi, so i believe i will have to do that job by myself, but it's hard with no expedience.. But if i got the dimensions right, it's "only" the cmyk left..
Well the color mode in this is example is CMYK, but it's too large (compared with the previous version) though the printer should be able to reduce the size. By the way, should bleed be added to the image?
Try and upload it "as is" and see if it's accepted. If you can't add bleed they'll probably enlarge it a little to allow for bleed which means they'll trim a bit off each edge of the artwork, are you prepared to accept this?
If I'm printing a label for a tiny bottle, and the label file dimensions are exactly the same size of the label @ 300dpi, is there any added benefit (print quality wise) having the rasterized dimensions be larger dimensions and then downsized? Or will that have exact same quality outcome as 100% exact dimensions?
I am trying to see if I need to tell someone to do a lot of extra work to redo a bunch of label files larger, or if that won't add any extra quality having them be larger and then downsizing rather than exact size. In my limited experience in the past printing things, I've always made things like 10x as large if vectorizing wasn't an option. It's weird me to have these very, very tiny little label dimensions (at 100% size), especially being rasterized, but she (the designer) is saying this is not a problem. I have a hard time believing that.
If you're using a layout software you would only need to be concerned about the DPI of any raster objects you use in the layout, with text and lineart being exempt from DPI issues due to their vector nature. When exporting your document as a PDF or sending it to a desktop printer, any raster objects whose effective output DPI is higher than the quality settings will be automatically resized to meet those requirements (in most cases).
However, it sounds like your designer built the file in Photoshop or GIMP - which poses a different issue entirely. While raster software is fine for making print quality photos, they aren't great for creating high-quality text without some finagling.
So is a 300DPI document good enough for a high quality print? Maybe, but probably not since it's a small label. It really depends on the nature and usage context of the artwork. In this context, tiny label = tiny text and fine detail, so 300 probably won't be enough. For reference, the software used to make printing plates for a professional press will typically rasterize outline shapes and text objects to at least 1000DPI.
If you want to avoid asking the designer to rework the document, I would recommend submitting a NON-FLATTENED working document to your printer and asking if they think that it will print okay before proceeding. Remember to include any fonts used with the document. If I were in your position I would just skip this and ask the designer to rebuild it in proper layout software like InDesign.
(EDIT: There's further issues about rasterizing outlines and text with regards to the Trapping process in a commercial print environment that I've addressed in the comments. Also - since I last had to deal with this issue, Adobe changed the Photoshop PDF export to not rasterize text layers in the resulting document. This mitigates pretty much all of my concerns about type quality, so theoretically you can get away with using Photoshop to develop print documents... but I doubt you're going to find a printer who would be happy about it. Just don't do it.)
I need to help with set up the Zebra in SAP environment.. We had Zebra Z6M (200dpi) and all was good, but now our company did zebra refresh and bought Zebra ZT420 (300dpi). Once this changed, we are facing problems with printing from SAP. The thing is, all is working, but we need to fit the text on the label. As you can see the attached picture, on the left is Z6M (200dpi), middle is ZT420 (300dpi) same driver in SAP, the right one is changed device type of Zebra, so once we use 300 dpi printing model, label is not good.
I am quite sure, I need to use driver LZEB3 for 300 dpi printing model but should we change smart forms or something? What to do to get proper label?
We are facing this problem over a month or two..
thank you for some point at this! I tried to contact reseller for making change in printhead to EEPROM.
I think this is the main problem..Because resolution is bigger, label is smaller. I cant set up any change in web management.. and we dont want use printhead converter..So I will wait for answer.. we of course tried Zebra ZT420 (200dpi) and this fixed everything but we bought many ZT420 300dpi models and we cant give them back. It too late. Any other help will be much appreciate.
You should be able to get the printers to print at 200 DPI by changing the settings in the configuration menu of the printer. You cannot go up without swapping printer heads but you can go down with a simple configuration setting.
Based on the printer DPI, it is expected that the output will change. In printing, if there is an option to change DPI from 300 to 200, then do so. Or need to the update the form again since zebra barcode needs trial and error in output.
If I save a tiff or jpeg in PhotoAI the DPI metadata stays unaltered in the output file, but saving as png strips out most metadata from the file including DPI (not unusual for a file format mostly used for web graphics rather than printing).
A 6000x4000 pixel dimension image will simply be printed smaller on the page at 300dpi, but larger at 96dpi (at 96dpi it would be far too big for the page). You can just override this behaviour in whatever software your using and make it as large or small as you want on the printed page.
I have Windows and I am using file explorer to open the picture. The pictures are old ones taken by camera and then scanned into my computer using the HP Smart app from my printer, which is HP OfficeJet Pro 7740, or by Plustek ephoto.
Check your source Preston. it absolutely does. 1.3.9 absolutely constantly and without fail changes at least the metadata from 300dpi to 72dpi on every single jpg file I save with remove noise, sharpen, enhance res, and upscale 2x. As a sports photographer, most of my files I submit are required to be/show that they are minimum 300dpi. Renders this software unusable for me as a professional as this is adding costly steps to my workflow.
It is just for the printing office I have to delive images in 300 dpi .
I have rendered at 2048x 1536 but it is still 96 dpi.
When I save the image with blender in png format is it then still a vector based image.
PNG is never vector based it is pixel based and the dpi in the file is simply a suggestion for the printing software and can usually be altered by it. As chipmasque has pointed out you need to provide a certain amount of pixels in order to get a certain size of printout.
E.g.: You are supposed to deliver a printable solution of one of your renders. The output is going to be a A4 sized paper. A4 = 21,0 29,7 (cm)
For ease of calculation lets assume we are not giving dpi (=dots per inch) but dpc (=dots per cm)
Since your delivery is 300dpis (= 300 dots per inches) 1 dot = 1 pixel. So you calculate your output resolution as pointed out above 21300 = 6300 and 29,7300=8910.
Now you render your result to 6300*8190pixels. The resulting png will be that size and will still have 96dpi set in its header as that is what blender writes into each file it saves.
If the print office cannot change that into 300dpi without resizing the image then open GIMP or Photoshop and simply enter 300dpi in the appropritate place and make sure that your image is not recalculated. (Make dimension in pixels fixed) Save it and the header will say 300dpi.
If you need bleed then calculate that in.
then give everyone in the print office a pink slip :ba: . Really, this should be pretty elementary stuff for anyone working with a printer, and if not, then the printer should have enough savvy to help out.
Working as a graphic artist and web designer, plus running a print shop, this is dependent on what you print and to which purpose. To help those whom stumble on this thread, here is a simple bit of help.
When speaking about edge blur, the above statement would hold true. Business logos which are deliberately designed to be simple and elegant do not need as high of a DPI 200-400 looks similar in small formats (such as letterheads and business cards). If you are printing a sign or banner, you will see the difference. Though you need to take into consideration how far the finished product will be seen from. Further away, better it looks.
Minimum and industry standard IS 300 DPI in order for the printer to print effectively. More detail per inch, tighter dots, cleaner printed product. Also, less angry customers whom pay a lot of money for prints.
It is also important to know that what you see on your monitor in terms of a specific shade of color will almost never be perfectly reproduced an a printer. For an example, Navy blue on a monitor will be a different shade on paper.
This is also important for creators. To avoid someone stealing your work, compress and display your art 72 DPI as a 4x6 (288x432) online. If someone steals this and tries to print it larger then a 4x6, they will have a horrible quality image.
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