Companion planting
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Babs
Jun 15, 2010, 4:12:17 PM6/15/10
to Salt Lake City Green Street Garden Gang
Hello. We were discussing the planting of the corn in the garden
across the street, and there was some issue with planting the corn in
four rows, and they ended up being planted in three. So today we will
plant some more corn. We had compiled a set of planting information
that unfortunately we were unable to get printed out. So I am sending
it in email form for everybody to refer to.
Companion Planting
In one technique known as companion planting, the three crops are
planted close together. Flat-topped mounds of soil are built for each
cluster of crops. Each mound is about 30 cm (1 ft) high and 50 cm (20
in) wide, and several maize seeds are planted close together in the
center of each mound. In parts of the Atlantic Northeast, rotten fish
or eel are buried in the mound with the maize seeds, to act as
additional fertilizer where the soil is poor.[1][2] When the maize is
15 cm (6 inches) tall, beans and squash are planted around the maize,
alternating between beans and squash. Milpas are farms or gardens that
employ companion planting on a larger scale.[3]
The three crops benefit from each other. The maize provides a
structure for the beans to climb, eliminating the need for poles. The
beans provide the nitrogen to the soil that the other plants utilize
and the squash spreads along the ground, blocking the sunlight, which
helps prevent weeds. The squash leaves act as a "living mulch,"
creating a microclimate to retain moisture in the soil, and the
prickly hairs of the vine deter pests. Maize lacks the amino acids
lysine and tryptophan, which the body needs to make proteins and
niacin, but beans contain both and therefore together they provide a
balanced diet.
Planting Potatos
A week or two before your planned potato planting date, set your seed
Potatos somewhere where they will be exposed to some warmth (between
60 and 70 degrees F.) and lots of light. This will induce them to
begin sprouting.
A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the
larger seed Potatos into "seeds". Each seed should be approximately 1
1/2-2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds.
Smaller Potatos may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your
'seed' will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to
prevent it from rotting once planted.
Dig a shallow trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. The
spacing at which you place the seed pieces will determine the
harvested potato size. For most household uses, you will want to plant
your potato seeds 15 inches apart in this trench. If you'd like a
quick crop of "baby" potatoes for soups and stews, you can plant the
seeds 4 inches apart, and begin harvesting them as soon as they reach
the desired size. Place the potato seeds into the trench (cut side
down) and then cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. (Do not fill the
trench in completely!) Depending on the soil temperature, the sprouts
will begin to emerge in about 2 weeks. At this time add another 3-4
inches of soil.
Your crop of potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface
of the soil. For this reason, when the stems are about 8 inches high,
you once again add enough soil to bring the level half way up the stem
of the plant. Another hilling will be needed 2-3 weeks later, at which
time you again add soil half way up the stem of the plant. After these
initial hillings, it is only necessary to add an inch or two of soil
to the hill each week or so, to ensure there is enough soil above the
forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed
to light.
If the new potatoes are exposed to sunlight while they are developing,
they will turn green. This green portion may be toxic!
CORN
Plant two or three seeds 12-15 inches apart, in rows 30-36 inches
apart. Shorter, earlier varieties can be spaced somewhat closer. Plant
seeds one to one-and-one-half inches deep, except for Xtra sweet
varieties, which should only be planted three-fourths an inch deep. If
both or all three seeds in a spot germinate, thin out the poorer
seedlings, saving the best plant from each spot. Isolate Xtra sweet
varieties from all other types of sweet corn; cross pollination with
other types can result in tough, starchy kernels.
Because corn is wind-pollinated, plant it in blocks of rows, rather
than in a long, single row, which would result in poor pollen
distribution on the silks and many kernel "skips".
Water the block-rows well after planting. Good soil moisture is
especially critical for the germination of Xtra sweet corn, as it must
absorb more water than other types for germination to occur. As plants
grow and weather becomes warmer, watering frequency must increase.
Most varieties of corn will produce shoots or "suckers" at the base of
the plant. Research indicates that sucker removal does not increase
yield or benefit the plant; therefore suckers are best left alone.
Fertilize when plants are 12-18 inches high, about July 1. Hoe
frequently to control weeds, but take care not to damage corn stalks
or roots. Adequate soil moisture is critical for plants to form
tassels and silks and to develop ears. Ears should be ready to harvest
about 3 weeks after silk emergence. Harvest sweet corn when kernels
are well-filled, tightly packed and when a thumbnail puncture produces
a milky substance.
You’re going to plant your seed about a half inch deep (no more) and
approximately six inches apart for the early varieties and 8 to 10
inches apart for the bigger, later varieties.
A row should be approximately 10 feet long at a minimum and you’ll
require 4 rows so the plants will cross pollinate and give you kernels
to eat. Rows should be 24 to 30 inches apart. If you plant your corn
in a single row, expect to get missing kernels or misshapen cobs (or
both).
How to Grow Corn Plants:
Grow corn in full sun and a rich garden soil.
Plant corn seeds in rows, about 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Space four to six
inches apart in rows three feet apart. Some home gardeners will plant
two seeds close together then, thin out one of them if both grow. This
assures maximum use of limited garden space, with no gaps due to poor
germination. Another method is to space the seed closer together, then
thin them. Water well after planting, and again two to four days later
if there has been no rain.
To assure proper pollination, plant four rows four feet long.
Tip: Some gardeners try to transplant corn seedlings to fill gaps in
the row. In general, corn, does not transplant well. You can succeed
however, under the right conditions. First, transplant when the
seedling is very small. Second, transplant in cooler weather and near
evening. Dig extra deep to extract the plant as corn seedlings send
out a long, deep tap root. Finally, water well and daily for about a
week.
Fertilize with a general purpose fertilizer every two to three weeks.
Water regularly in dry weather. Water deeply.
Keep corn plants well weeded in their early life. Place mulch between
the rows to keep weeds down.
Sowing Squash Seeds:
Plant in rows or hills, planting seeds one inch deep. Row spacing is
dependent upon the variety you are planting. In hills, plant four to
five per hill. After they have germinated, keep the best two to three
squash plants. Cover very lightly with soil. Water the first day and
if there is no rain, every two to three days until they germinate.
How to Grow Squash:
Squash plants should be grown in full sun.
Squash plants are food hogs. They need a rich garden soil, and ample
fertilizer. The soil should be well drained. A side dressing of
fertilizer and regular feedings of fertilizer will significantly help
the health of the plant and the size of the harvest.
Water regularly, especially during dry periods and the fruit growth
stage. Water deeply. Like other garden vegetables, keep soil moist,
not wet. It is important to note, that irregular watering, can result
in pre-mature ripening of the fruit.
Weed regularly, especially during the early growth stage. Adding a
layer of mulch or compost, will keep the weeds down, and feed the
plant.
Train vines to go in the direction you want them to go. Carefully, and
slowly, turn vines as needed. Move them a little each day. Trim vines,
removing tertiary vines to promote larger fruit growth.
Tip: Bury vines with an inch or two of garden soil, to encourage
secondary root growth.
Sow seeds directly in the garden two to three weeks after the last
expected frost, when the soil temperature has reached at least 60
degrees F. (See the seed packet for depth and spacing. Plant the
seedlings in hills spaced 3 to 4 feet apart, two plants per hill. Set
the plants into the ground at the same depth they were growing in
their pots. Give plants an inch of water each week, and feed every two
weeks with compost tea or seaweed extract. Avoid fertilizers that are
high in nitrogen; they'll encourage lush foliage at the expense of
fruits.
Hills and rows of summer squash should be approximately 3 to 4 feet
apart while winter squash should be spaced approximately 4 to 5 feet
apart with 5 to 7 feet between rows and with the hills spaced about 3
feet apart.
across the street, and there was some issue with planting the corn in
four rows, and they ended up being planted in three. So today we will
plant some more corn. We had compiled a set of planting information
that unfortunately we were unable to get printed out. So I am sending
it in email form for everybody to refer to.
Companion Planting
In one technique known as companion planting, the three crops are
planted close together. Flat-topped mounds of soil are built for each
cluster of crops. Each mound is about 30 cm (1 ft) high and 50 cm (20
in) wide, and several maize seeds are planted close together in the
center of each mound. In parts of the Atlantic Northeast, rotten fish
or eel are buried in the mound with the maize seeds, to act as
additional fertilizer where the soil is poor.[1][2] When the maize is
15 cm (6 inches) tall, beans and squash are planted around the maize,
alternating between beans and squash. Milpas are farms or gardens that
employ companion planting on a larger scale.[3]
The three crops benefit from each other. The maize provides a
structure for the beans to climb, eliminating the need for poles. The
beans provide the nitrogen to the soil that the other plants utilize
and the squash spreads along the ground, blocking the sunlight, which
helps prevent weeds. The squash leaves act as a "living mulch,"
creating a microclimate to retain moisture in the soil, and the
prickly hairs of the vine deter pests. Maize lacks the amino acids
lysine and tryptophan, which the body needs to make proteins and
niacin, but beans contain both and therefore together they provide a
balanced diet.
Planting Potatos
A week or two before your planned potato planting date, set your seed
Potatos somewhere where they will be exposed to some warmth (between
60 and 70 degrees F.) and lots of light. This will induce them to
begin sprouting.
A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the
larger seed Potatos into "seeds". Each seed should be approximately 1
1/2-2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds.
Smaller Potatos may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your
'seed' will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to
prevent it from rotting once planted.
Dig a shallow trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. The
spacing at which you place the seed pieces will determine the
harvested potato size. For most household uses, you will want to plant
your potato seeds 15 inches apart in this trench. If you'd like a
quick crop of "baby" potatoes for soups and stews, you can plant the
seeds 4 inches apart, and begin harvesting them as soon as they reach
the desired size. Place the potato seeds into the trench (cut side
down) and then cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. (Do not fill the
trench in completely!) Depending on the soil temperature, the sprouts
will begin to emerge in about 2 weeks. At this time add another 3-4
inches of soil.
Your crop of potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface
of the soil. For this reason, when the stems are about 8 inches high,
you once again add enough soil to bring the level half way up the stem
of the plant. Another hilling will be needed 2-3 weeks later, at which
time you again add soil half way up the stem of the plant. After these
initial hillings, it is only necessary to add an inch or two of soil
to the hill each week or so, to ensure there is enough soil above the
forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed
to light.
If the new potatoes are exposed to sunlight while they are developing,
they will turn green. This green portion may be toxic!
CORN
Plant two or three seeds 12-15 inches apart, in rows 30-36 inches
apart. Shorter, earlier varieties can be spaced somewhat closer. Plant
seeds one to one-and-one-half inches deep, except for Xtra sweet
varieties, which should only be planted three-fourths an inch deep. If
both or all three seeds in a spot germinate, thin out the poorer
seedlings, saving the best plant from each spot. Isolate Xtra sweet
varieties from all other types of sweet corn; cross pollination with
other types can result in tough, starchy kernels.
Because corn is wind-pollinated, plant it in blocks of rows, rather
than in a long, single row, which would result in poor pollen
distribution on the silks and many kernel "skips".
Water the block-rows well after planting. Good soil moisture is
especially critical for the germination of Xtra sweet corn, as it must
absorb more water than other types for germination to occur. As plants
grow and weather becomes warmer, watering frequency must increase.
Most varieties of corn will produce shoots or "suckers" at the base of
the plant. Research indicates that sucker removal does not increase
yield or benefit the plant; therefore suckers are best left alone.
Fertilize when plants are 12-18 inches high, about July 1. Hoe
frequently to control weeds, but take care not to damage corn stalks
or roots. Adequate soil moisture is critical for plants to form
tassels and silks and to develop ears. Ears should be ready to harvest
about 3 weeks after silk emergence. Harvest sweet corn when kernels
are well-filled, tightly packed and when a thumbnail puncture produces
a milky substance.
You’re going to plant your seed about a half inch deep (no more) and
approximately six inches apart for the early varieties and 8 to 10
inches apart for the bigger, later varieties.
A row should be approximately 10 feet long at a minimum and you’ll
require 4 rows so the plants will cross pollinate and give you kernels
to eat. Rows should be 24 to 30 inches apart. If you plant your corn
in a single row, expect to get missing kernels or misshapen cobs (or
both).
How to Grow Corn Plants:
Grow corn in full sun and a rich garden soil.
Plant corn seeds in rows, about 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Space four to six
inches apart in rows three feet apart. Some home gardeners will plant
two seeds close together then, thin out one of them if both grow. This
assures maximum use of limited garden space, with no gaps due to poor
germination. Another method is to space the seed closer together, then
thin them. Water well after planting, and again two to four days later
if there has been no rain.
To assure proper pollination, plant four rows four feet long.
Tip: Some gardeners try to transplant corn seedlings to fill gaps in
the row. In general, corn, does not transplant well. You can succeed
however, under the right conditions. First, transplant when the
seedling is very small. Second, transplant in cooler weather and near
evening. Dig extra deep to extract the plant as corn seedlings send
out a long, deep tap root. Finally, water well and daily for about a
week.
Fertilize with a general purpose fertilizer every two to three weeks.
Water regularly in dry weather. Water deeply.
Keep corn plants well weeded in their early life. Place mulch between
the rows to keep weeds down.
Sowing Squash Seeds:
Plant in rows or hills, planting seeds one inch deep. Row spacing is
dependent upon the variety you are planting. In hills, plant four to
five per hill. After they have germinated, keep the best two to three
squash plants. Cover very lightly with soil. Water the first day and
if there is no rain, every two to three days until they germinate.
How to Grow Squash:
Squash plants should be grown in full sun.
Squash plants are food hogs. They need a rich garden soil, and ample
fertilizer. The soil should be well drained. A side dressing of
fertilizer and regular feedings of fertilizer will significantly help
the health of the plant and the size of the harvest.
Water regularly, especially during dry periods and the fruit growth
stage. Water deeply. Like other garden vegetables, keep soil moist,
not wet. It is important to note, that irregular watering, can result
in pre-mature ripening of the fruit.
Weed regularly, especially during the early growth stage. Adding a
layer of mulch or compost, will keep the weeds down, and feed the
plant.
Train vines to go in the direction you want them to go. Carefully, and
slowly, turn vines as needed. Move them a little each day. Trim vines,
removing tertiary vines to promote larger fruit growth.
Tip: Bury vines with an inch or two of garden soil, to encourage
secondary root growth.
Sow seeds directly in the garden two to three weeks after the last
expected frost, when the soil temperature has reached at least 60
degrees F. (See the seed packet for depth and spacing. Plant the
seedlings in hills spaced 3 to 4 feet apart, two plants per hill. Set
the plants into the ground at the same depth they were growing in
their pots. Give plants an inch of water each week, and feed every two
weeks with compost tea or seaweed extract. Avoid fertilizers that are
high in nitrogen; they'll encourage lush foliage at the expense of
fruits.
Hills and rows of summer squash should be approximately 3 to 4 feet
apart while winter squash should be spaced approximately 4 to 5 feet
apart with 5 to 7 feet between rows and with the hills spaced about 3
feet apart.
Babs Isak
Jun 15, 2010, 6:21:43 PM6/15/10
to saltlakecitygree...@googlegroups.com
Hello all,
Gabe forgot to mention and remind everyone that we have a Gardening
and Dinner evening for tonight. Come by anytime. Sarah Miller one of
our newest residents who is in town for the summer as a photo
journalist intern at the Deseret News has planned a "Breakfast as
Dinner" theme for the evening.
Festivitizes starting about 530pm with gardening and snacks/iced tea.
Dinner around 8pm or so.
Menu:
1.Pancakes
2. French Toast
3. Hash Browns
4. Grits
5. Homemade Bread
6. Salad
7. Iced Tea
Gardening agenda will include:
1. As Gabe and Torg mentioned--adding additional corn to the blue
corn blocks for pollination reasons. I.e making the corn 5 wide on
the mounds as opposed to 3. The purple corn is already all planted so
we should probably leave it as is.
2. Plant Cucumbers, Loofa and Melons along the west fence and between
Purple corn of the vacant lot and H20
3. Plant Tomatoes, Peppers and Basil along the north fence and h20.
4. Finish planting Potatoes and h20.
5. Plant carrots and h20.
6. Plant Beans in flats
7. Water Corn and Squash.
8. String up Peas
9. Organize and tidy up back yard.
10. Weed Front Yard with Anna's or Babs' Directions.
11. Use paint pen to label white stakes for garden in vacant lot
See everyone soon,
Bring an appetite
babs
jonathan krausert
Jun 15, 2010, 10:30:10 PM6/15/10
to saltlakecitygree...@googlegroups.com
sad day i wish i knew early
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Karen Cleveland
Jun 15, 2010, 10:07:31 PM6/15/10
to saltlakecitygree...@googlegroups.com
Hey Babs, thanks for the great info : ) Sorry I am unable to make it
tonight, my car caught on fire earlier today and it is in the shop.
Please keep me posted - it turns out I am spending many of my weekends
down at safehaven, I am sorry I have not been keeping up so well with
you guys. I think about you though : ) Make it great and enjoy the
evening...Love, Karen
tonight, my car caught on fire earlier today and it is in the shop.
Please keep me posted - it turns out I am spending many of my weekends
down at safehaven, I am sorry I have not been keeping up so well with
you guys. I think about you though : ) Make it great and enjoy the
evening...Love, Karen
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