GMScompound is the first major dungeon the player visits during Underrail storyline. It is located in Lower Underrail, and can be accessed via the Lower Underrail exit from South Gate Station, by heading north from the station platform on SGS level 1.
The initial level, some dusty old offices full of rathounds and junk. A large sealed door is located near the entrance. To the west is an unpowered elevator, to the northwest are stairs and the power generator for the whole compound is also on this level.
An Omni-Tool can usually be found somewhere on the first level, and it proves useful as the whole compound proper is full of accessible ventilation shafts. Just remember that rathounds are more than capable of crawling inside the same ventilation tunnels.
This level is largely devoid of living creatures. Armed Sentry Bots and Small Sentry Bots roam around. Being seen by the cameras will attract the bots towards you. Breaking in to the storage rooms can yield some useful loot.
This level consists of a relatively clean living area with cafeteria, and some storage rooms. The elevator on this level is broken, but it can be repaired with 15 mechanics skill. This level has been recently overtaken by raiders, coming in from the adjacent Lower Caves.
Burrower nesting area near the GMS compound. It is to the north of the storage room on the level 1 of the compound, and requires completing Gorsky's task first before it can be accessed (you may have to go back to South Gate Station and talk to Quinton to recover the keycard once the quest is complete).
The second group is located on the northern corridor. It can be found immediately after the pushable rock (strength 8 required). Pushing the rock will trigger a cutscene and immediately dispatch the second group of borrowers. Note, however, that doing so, will block access to a small crevice to the east where the body of a Dead Woman can be found. From her body the player can loot a Rathound Leather Armor, a Molotov Cocktail, a Tornado Crossbow, 13 crossbow bolts, a can of Gasoline, 1 Napalm C and 1 Magnesium Powder.
At the southern end of the eastern corridor, the player can find some Destructible rocks, behind which a deactivated Sentry Bot sits quietly. The rocks can be dispatched by either pushing the aforementioned rock, or using TNT charge. The sentry bot can then be powered up using any kind of Battery. Doing so will cause the sentry bot to join the player as a temporary follower. Note that the friendly bot will not leave the caves when the player exits.
Finally, at the centre of the cave, the player can find a Burrower Warrior munching on the corpse of a Dead Man. The Warrior can be easily killed by using any of the previous rocks encountered (provided that the player killed the respective group by hand). If you want to use this strategy, simply lure the warrior back to the second pushable rock and activate it.
(Homemade Chuck-&-key). This is a railroad plate with spike poked through the square hole in the plate. Now, you take the square spike and place it into the square hole of the car carrier door and turn counter clockwise and voila, your auto-rack door opens, then you can load up inside and ride in style!
Coil cars are used to transport rolls of steel. Various types of wire also are hauled in roll-form with the coil car. The steel rolls are manufactured mostly for the automobile industries.
This is a caboose without a cupola. The area in the mid-section of this caboose that bulges outward was used to keep an eye out on the train being pulled ahead of the caboose as like with the cupola.
Gondola cars are open topped rectangular rail cars used to haul various goods. Most haul scrap metal, but a few others may haul steel beams, metal & concrete culverts, rebar and even the occasional railroad track rails with ties still intact. You can ride in these gondola rail cars, but they sure are windy to ride! Trash, fodder and debris blows relentlessly no matter what the speed of the train! You might as well bring a pair of goggles with you when you plan on riding a gondola!
Locomotive units can be ridden as well. Each unit has its very own electric heating system, airconditioning, refrigerator with bottled water and even a restroom with a toilet much like on a Greyhound bus. Sometimes the train crew will be nice enough and let you ride inside the cab of the rear, trailing locomotive units. Most all have a radio so you can hear what is going on around you. There is enough room that you can roll out your bed roll on the floor of the cab and sleep comfortably. Also there usually are three to four adjustable seats in the locomotive cab.
Trains that transport goods long-haul travel while trailing other locomotives behind one another for added power, thus if you are experiencing cold weather, you can ride in the cab of the locomotive that is in rear trailing position three to four units back from the lead unit, (or how ever many units are trailing behind).
I am looking at getting myself a SUP Board but have been warned off black/dark coloured boards as they are allegedly more susceptible to popping due to hot weather. Is this true? Would it be best to avoid darker coloured boards all together?
Hi ISUPworld,
Please can you help. I have a decathlon itiwit paddle board 10ft touring model (FR-KAV B, 2019/04, D9 18, 96892). I grounded the fin in the sea which put a crack in the plastic housing that the fin slots into. This crack looks easily repairable. However, with stresses the fin is put under I realise the correct and best glue is needed. Would you be able to advise on the best and correct glue to use?
Any of your help here to get me waterborn would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Hey Leon, Sorry for my late response but if the fin is still cracked you could use AquaSeal glue. That stuff usually works great. Clifton Urethane Adhesive is also known to be a good glue for those types of repair. Good luck!
Hey Karen, Try changing the gasket (little rubber ring) on your pump valve adapter. Sometimes different boards require a different sized gasket in order to seal properly onto the valve. Your pump probably came with a few different sized gaskets in the package, With a different sized gasket it will likely seal fine to your board. Hopefully that helps!
Hi. Great article! I have ATOLL ISUP about 5 years old. I notice that it looked thicker last time I inflated it. I then saw that the seam glue was showing along the length of the board (about 1/8 inch). There are no leaks. Is this normal wear for an ISUP?
Very helpful article! Question.. I have a new ISUP. I want to add some D rings on the back end.. but the traction mat covers most of the board back there. Should I glue the D rings on top of the mat? Or should I try and heat up the mat enough to trim it away to make room for the D ring patch?
We have a maybe 8 year SE Needlenose 126 paddleboard which we LOVE because of your site. So first off Thank you. We have noticed the blue pad starting to deteriorate. Meaning it leaves you with blue knees and feet and will transfer to our white stern on our sailboat. It does wipe off, but wondering if there is anything we can do to the board to stop it? Maybe a spray of some sort? Second question is we have a pin hole leak in the top of the side seam near the bow. Do you recommend your Aquaseal (3 layers) for something like that, a patch or we have Toobseal to attack it from the inside.
I have a Aquaplanet board and it is the same. the side wall, not near a seam is leaking very slowly. It leaked from new so I did a youtube video. I photographed and zoomed in and you can see is is leaking from a crack in the plastic only visible by zoomed photograph. They implied i must have damaged it but on telling them I informed them of the leak before I used even used the board they have agreed to change the SUP. Hopefully
It is about 3 years old. It is hot here with humidity but I store it out of the sun. Obviously it should be kept out of the sun for extended periods when out of the water and if exposed, let some air out.
I was about to ask if the Starboard welding system also has issues with seam failure. I spent extra to get welded vs glued seams in order to avoid glue failure in the tropics Seems that Starboards still fail? Or was yours built with an older seam technology?
Hi Allison, we have had our Jimmy Stykes Seeker Isup about 4 years. Recently the nonslip deck pads appear to be disintegrating! When standing or kneeling on the pads black streaks and little black flecks are appearing on our legs. Do you have any suggestions for sealing the deck pads or removing and replacing the pads? We are open to any recommendations. Thank you in advance!
Checking to see how Toobseal did. We used that in our dinghy for the high pressure floor and it worked great. Have a pinhole leak in the top side seam of our inflatable paddleboard and were thinking of trying it.
Hi Allison, I own a body glove performer 11 for 2 years. Only use it during the summer at the lake, so far I am happy with it, but the upper pad is startling to detach from the board. Is this common ? Any suggestions on how to repair it ? Thanks
Hi again, I just thought of another option for you that might be even easier. OutdoorMaster.com has this SUP carrier strap that you could use and not have to glue on any D-rings or bother with the handle. Plus I have a discount code for them for 20% off. If you go for this use code ISUPWORLD20 at checkout!
I added 2 more pics to the link above.
One shows my fix after using all the glue that came with the repair kit (plus a touch of Gorilla glue I had on hand). The other shows a carrying rig I made using some rope and a laptop bag strap.
Hope this helps anyone else with similar issues. Happy paddling!
Hi! I like to bring my dogs with me on my SUP and have noticed that they sometimes scratch the foam traction pad. Is there a way to better protect the pad or to fix the scratches where they have torn it?
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