Best Dvd Ripping Software

[Nolan Guyz]

Iused to be WAV as its the best for SQ on the first generation Naim streamers.

When Asset UPnP launched the Synology version I went to that as it has an excellent feature to transcode all codec formats to any other as it streams.

I then batch converted all WAV to FLAC and now have Asset set to stream FLAC (play as) WAV on my NDX.

I do exactly the same as Mike. Rips are done to Level 5 Flac and then transcoded to WAV on the fly ie when they are being played. WAV should sound better on first gen streamers such as your NDX. With the newer stuff it makes far less difference, if any.

However playback devices tend to use different software routines to unpack these files, and this can lead to sonic subtle differences on playback specific to a particular device and encoding type, such as FLAC/ WAV/ ALAC. Naim first generation devices were rather sensitive to this, but have massively improved with later and current products. First gen devices were happier with WAV because of certain limitations in the designs.

I understand from a paper I read a few years ago that FLAC compression levels are only a time variable when encoding.

Decoding time is the same/similar irrispective of compression level.

That said, I still use level 5 as its the dBpoweramp default.

I accept downloaded FLAC files at whatever compression level they are delivered at.

Western rip saws can feel a bit like grunt work powering through a cut, whereas Japanese saws are much more about finding that rhythm (think the tortoise and the hare). Sawing with these can almost feel therapeutic.

If you've seen a fair bit of my work then you'll probably know that despite my love of keeping the tool kit minimal I'm a huge fan of the router plane.And this brings up a common question that I've decided to answer today - How do you keep...

Stuggling With Larger Edge Joints? Watch the full step-by-step video to learn the edge jointing process for tackling large boards by hand. A perfect reference for gluing up a table top. Find it for FREE in our Member Area: Login here. Or...

In this post I share my favourite design for homemade clamps. They can be made really large or really small to suit your needs. Further down we also include a short video segment from our latest series where I explain further how the clamps work. I've just been...

For me, I have trouble with the Japanese saws because my arms are long. I need a long saw plate and, for the method just described, I feel like I need to cut on the push. They are wonderful saws, but not for me.

Very good video. I been trying hand tool now for maby a year or so. I love it. But when it does come to ripping, even 3/4 stock its challenging. Especially when I look over to my right and see a 10 inch tablesaw sitting there. The hand tool users that I read about or see on you tube make a whole lot of sense. I can bare the thought of selling all my power tools. So I am looking for balance between the two. plus my time allocated for practice with hand tools is very limited. Thanks again.

I would love to find a good hardware solution that will let me just pop my CDs in, get them ripped, recognized, and tagged in a way that would be super friendly to Roon (and that will let me have control over the files and their data in case of need).

I used the Batch Ripper (part of dbpowramp) with 4 cd drives in my PC and was processing 15-20 cds an hour, but it does partly depend on how precise you want to be regarding the file tags (that is another subject all together and everyone has their own preferences.!)

This exercise pre-dated Roon, but I wanted to make sure that I could use these files regardless of the playback mechanism. For example, I could have used Naim equipment to rip and play Cds, but the files would have been useless elsewhere.

Hi, I use dbPoweramp (professional version) and other rip tagging tools for my CD ripping service. Most of the customers come to me for the same reason as you mention, ripping takes a lot of time and certainly if you want to get the structure, metadata and covers in order. BTW, Roon is my final check before delivery in addition to normal use

dBpoweramp for me was nearer 5 min a cd, and that was with a by now ancient Windows laptop. It uses all the cores available, so is fast. Only thing I found slowed it down was to rip to a network drive via wifi rather than to a local drive. Better to rip locally, then if you need to transfer across your network when a batch is done,

Just ripping 4 second hand CDs that arrived this morning, using dBpoweramp. Each one has taken less than 2 minutes to rip. I previously ripped my entire CD collection with similar results. Occasional slow reading CD, but that was the exception rather than the rule.

Weird way to open a comprehensive guide on ripping vinyl maybe, but hear me out: It takes too much time and the results are almost certainly not going to be as good as simply going and spending a few pennies on the digital file of the song that you want for your DJing.

Prefer me to talk you through this? In this video, a recording of a live show from the Digital DJ Tips YouTube channel, I talk you through everything in this article, and we take questions from our community on the subject.

For instance, I have a couple of cherished acetates (acetates are a special one-off pressing of remixes etc that DJs used to get made back in the day) that were given to me by big-name DJs. And the thing with acetates is, you can only play them a couple of dozen times and they wear out. So for me, digitising those was a no-brainer.

Ultimately, ripping vinyl can be fun, and it can also be a great way to catalogue and preserve hard to find music. But as I said at the start, for most DJs, most of the time, buying the digital files of the songs you want is likely to make more sense than doing this.

Yes, Gus is right. dbpoweramp is superb ( available in both Windows and mac versions). I particularly love the way it deals with metadata giving access ti a number of pre-existing solutions on other databases and allowing the user to edit as they wish. Further when bought as a bundle with PerfectTunes you also get cover art and can search for alternatives if you wish e.g when the cover art is of a 2023 version when you are ripping one from 1998.

What is the best chainsaw for ripping hardwood logs such as red oak, white oak, maple, cherry, and walnut?Most of these logs are 2 to 3 feet in diameter and 10 to 20 feet long.Also, are there any other inexpensive machine equipment to rip logs effectively?5/17/21 #2: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

rich c

What's a dollar amount that you consider inexpensive?5/18/21 #3: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

John Member

Husqvarna 3120XP and Stihl MS-880 are the big buys. The 395XP and MS-660 are sufficient for anything up to 3' diameter, however, and substantially less money though still not cheap. Those would be the ones I'd look at. I use a 385XP. It's been a great saw for 15 years but I always have wished for just a little more power.John5/18/21 #4: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

Kenneth

In response to Rich C., our budget is up to $1000.Thank you.5/18/21 #5: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

rich c

A Granberg mill and ripping chains will get you up around $300-$350. So the best chainsaw you can get is something that costs $650-$700. That won't get you very much past a 30" bar.5/19/21 #6: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

Mark B

Im pretty much with rich here. Your going to be scouring ebay/craigslist/FB yardsale hoping to find a combo that will run for $1000.00. Your base saw buying new will be far more than that but you may get lucky used. Hard part is those big production saws at least around here command top dollar even used (unless they are stolen).5/19/21 #7: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

John Member

Unless you are way out in the hinterland you'd be better off finding someone with a portable sawmill to mill logs for you. I cut several thousand bf with my chainsaw mill. It's really hard work and slow. 200 bf was a big day in 24 inch oak logs. Now I cut 700 bf with much less wear and tear on me or my bandsaw mill. Larger, more automated mills will do 2 or 3X that.

A chainsaw mill is the lowest cost route to get into milling logs; that's why I went that route in the beginning, but it's still not really cheap. I spent about $1000 for my 385XP and Granberg mill 15+ years ago; now it would be $2000. One ripping chain for my saw now costs $80. With luck I can mill 100 bf before I need to sharpen it. My mobile bandsaw mill cost $7000 two years ago. The blades cost $20 and sometimes I can cut 1000 bf before I need to sharpen it. If you hit a few nails both are toast, but you are only out $20 for the bandsaw blade.

Like I said, if you are out where there's no way to get a bandsaw mill to the logs or the logs out to a mill, fine, get a chainsaw mill. Otherwise, find someone with a bandsaw mill. I charge $0.40/bf to cut logs for people, so it's pretty economical if your logs are free. That $2000 you didn't spend on a chainsaw mill rig will buy you 5000 bf of cut lumber.John5/21/21 #8: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

Mark B

On top of location the killer is how many of the logs are actually 36" and how many in the lot need to be truly sawn at 20'. Those will typically be your achilles heel in finding a custom sawyer. A 36" log is a lot to handle on most anything but a very large portable mill and I'd imagine unless custom sawing is huge in your area the 20' logs will present a problem.We've opened up 36" logs routinely on a mill that will saw 25" boards but its a bear and Id imagine the bulk of those doing portable custom sawing will top out at 17'-18' logs if that.But John is spot on. Unless you a have uber huge logs (read 48" slabs) that are beyond the capacity of even large band mills you'd be far better off finding a custom sawyer or even tracking down a used manual bandmill but 36" will push the limits and I'd say you'd be fab'ing or buying extensions if you really need 20' material.5/22/21 #9: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

Tom Gardiner

Do you have friends or relatives who are prepared to help you muscle a mill down the log? And by my calculations one 8/4 board 30" wide by 16' long could weigh +325 lbs when green. That means more than one helper.5/26/21 #10: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

Mark B

Heavy slabs and flitches are just part of sawing. If you have the capacity to handle the log you'd darn well better have the capacity to handle that log cut into small pieces. Kinda like being able to blast a cow, hang it, bleed it, and not be able to handle the hamburger.5/27/21 #11: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

rich c

Mark B.

When the OP says he has up to $1,000 for a sawmill, I don't think he will have a forklift to handle slabs.5/30/21 #12: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

Bill Gasow

As far as the best chainsaw to use I'm a Stihl man myself. I live in the Pacific Northwest and we have some big wood out here. A while back I bought a Grandburg mill and a ms661. I can't imagine what an 880 would be like (As far as weight and handling I mean). That 660 goes pretty fast through Douglas-fir, ponderosa pinee and sugar pinen as long as I have a sharp ripping chain. To tell you the truth, if I had to do it all over again I'd get a portable band sawmill. Chainsaw mills are less efficient and they have a big wide saw curf. Whatever you do it takes some muscle to get the log up on blocks or rounds, not to mention carrying the slabs and stickering in them. I love doing this stuff so it's okay for me. The one fellow said just hire somebody with a portable mill that's the way to go if you just want some boards in a hurry. Bill Gasow10/7/21 #14: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

George Member

I also use an MS661 and love the saw. But I run out of power on Oak and logs over 24 inches. I generally quarter the logs first, which has two advantages: 1) cutting the widest width when the chain is sharp and 2) the later cuts are narrow when chain is duller, but have proportional more power to push harder without bogging down the saw. This allows for better chips than dust. The slower you go, when power is limited, the more heat that is created and with the smaller chips, the chain gets dull quickly. I sharpen every 8 to 10 cuts on 8' logs.Note about rip chain. Do not get Grandberg rip chain. The concept of grinding off partial parts of teeth is flawed. Their chain is not on par with the concept of saw blades (ATB or TCG) where each tooth cuts a different section of wood. All they are doing is put the load on a few teeth to do the work, but has the friction of the partial ground teeth going through the Kerf. This is not the same concept as skip chain where the whole tooth is removed.I did a thorough review of their chain and of course, they did not post it. I have two of their chains and tested it against the Oregon 72RD. Done 1000's of bd ft to compare in multiple hardwood species. The 72RD is superior, cuts better and lasts longer.Love the MS661, starts well after sitting for months, and the new M-Tronics is awesome. If I had to do it over, I would have sprung for the 881 Magnum series. weight is not a factor when on the log. I end up pushing way too much with the 661 to the point of bogging down, which dictate the speed and time through the cut. It is more work in the end verses an 881, harder on the chain, bar, etc. Get the Max power you can get for wide hardwoods.Other tips: since taking off the chain in a grandberg mill is a hassle (have to take off the mill), I sharpen on the saw. I bring both files and battery operated Dremel with chainsaw grinding bits. I also use a lighter wt oil with the pump wide open to provide maximum oil. The eco friend saws of today do not throw enough oil for a 24" inch cut in oak. I built and tried an additional oil supply at the bar tip, just inside the tip sprocket, but turned out to have limited gain. I end up using Stihl Platinum oil (which is 40 wt) plus Stihl Winter (blue jug) that is 10 wt. I get a ratio around 20 wt, which flows well around the bar. BTW - The orange bottle, Woodcutter, is 30 wt. See the MSDS from Stihl on their oils.Final tip: Since each log needs a flat cut with an external rail-set first to guide the first cuts, the height has to be changed frequently between that and final thickness cuts, I have height block for 4/4, 5/4, 8/4, etc that I put under each end of the mill when changing heights. This provides consistency of cut thickness as I switch thickness heights for each log. I do not have to mess with the number gauges, which can be troublesome from end to end tightening.9/24/22 #15: RE: Best Chainsaw for Ripping Logs ...

George Member

Update: I decided to spring for the MS881. It is a bit more powerful and heavier. I do not mind the weight. The chain is .404 pitch and I equipped it with a 36" bar. my MS661 has a 32" bar and by the time the Alaskan mill is on, can only cut around 24. However, the 661 struggled at full cut on oak. The MS881 also has a reduced rpm and the chain cutter spacing is similar to a skip chain. This combination of increased HP, cutters spread out, and lower rpm is supposed to take deeper cuts, verses finer sawdust cutting. One drawback is the kerf is bigger than the MS661. The means more work to cut. Overall, I have notice an improvement over the 661.

However, the bar has an issue. With the .063 gauge groove, the remaining side rails the chain rides on are thin. Wore big divots in bar after a couple hundred board feet. The oiling adjustment is awesome and I ran it in the middle of the range. Plenty of oil thrown on the end guard of the mill. I mention this as there is sufficient oil that was not the cause. Also, the groove in the bar widened significantly causing the chain to wobble around and make big grooves in the wood. I flipped the bar over and it cuts better. Filed the divots out firstof course.

Overall, I like the increased HP. Verdict is out on if the it is significantly better than the ms661.

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