Atl Cracks

[Aliza Pointon]

I am a contractor doing remodeling work and this product has made my life easier like no other. I'm excited to say the Reusable Smart Dispenser is a total home-run guys I recommend this Great Stuff to all my colleges, friends and family. for window unit replacement to replacement Front doors the gaps and cracks formula expands to fill up to an inch and no over expanding that could bend or twist frames, perfect!

A.If the foam has not cured or hardened, use fingernail polish remover (with acetone); a polyglycol-based skin cleanser or corn oil may be effective. Then wash with soap and plenty of water. If the foam has hardened, there is no solvent that will remove it. It will not harm your skin and will wear off over time. To remove cured foam from skin, use a pumice stone (available at most drug stores) and warm, soapy water. Then apply petroleum jelly.

Hello all,
I am trying to characterize/ quantify the cracks and pores found on the (sub)surface of this SEM image of the lateral side of a micro-EDM cut section of NbC (cracks and pores caused by rapid heating and cooling and vaporisation/ melting of material).

Is there a way for the skeleton plugin to only target the cracks and not the background? Cropping the image and trying to remove the background that way, does not solve the issue, as a portion of the background always remains (and I also cut out a piece of the cracks that way).
I also tried some other thresholds, but due to the background being completely black, same as the cracks, I could not figure out how to eliminate it that way.

Maybe some kind of active contours to fill out the background without invading the cracks, then turn that area white and proceed with segmentation?
Random first thought, maybe someone else will have something specific to Fiji, have only used active contours in Python.

usually a good way tool to find length is the skeletonise and you can maybe want to find the width and for that a common approach is the Local Thickness (you can find those plugins on the imagej/fiji websites)

The ImageJ wiki is a community-edited knowledge base on topics relating to ImageJ, a public domain program for processing and analyzing scientific images, and its ecosystem of derivatives and variants, including ImageJ2, Fiji, and others.

If there is one adventurous hike to do in the Cederberg Wilderness Area, this is it! Very popular, and for good reason, this is a hike with an adventurous feel and is a lot of fun. Many people just do the Wolfberg Cracks. I would recommend adding the additional miles to see Wolfberg Arch as well. Once up the cracks, the hiking along the top to the arch is easy and very stunning.

This is an amazing hike that is do-able most any time. The steep part of the hike is in the shade much of the day, making it approachable even in the heat of the summer though I would recommend an early start.

The trail starts near the camping area at Dwarsrivier. From Clanwilliam go west to the N7 and travel south about 25 km. Turn left onto the road signed for Algeria and follow it about 18 km to the Algeria Campsite and Visitor Center.

From the Algeria Campsite, go south on the main road as it crosses the pass and descends to Dwarsrivier. The total distance from Algeria is about 26 km. You will need to stop at the store / reception center there to pick up a permit. In 2016, the reception center was open from 8AM to 5PM, with a 1-2PM lunch closure.

To The Top (1.5-2.5 hours)
From the trailhead, follow the trail up and up and up. It meanders and zig-zags its way to the base of the cliff band that guards the summit. When the trail reaches the boulders and large rocks near the base of the cliffs, the route divides. The Narrow Crack is the recommended way up and involves fun scrambling and obstacles. If you are afraid of heights or obstacles, take the Wide route. The Wide route is straightforward hiking with a few small obstacles, but nothing difficult. I would recommend going up the Narrow and down the Wide.

The Narrow Crack
The narrow route is to the right of the more obvious wide route. The route starts by scrambling up and to the right under the large boulder blocking the path. This looks tricky (and is dark), but is class 4 and fairly straight forward when you find the feet.

Up above the first boulder, go right, contouring around a prow on a narrow ledge. Once around the prow, the trail becomes much more visible again as it cuts back and up left through an arch. Stunning!

Passing through the arch deposits you in a large flat area. The exit crack is straight across the boulder field and marked with an arrow. Squeeze in and through the crack, popping out into an amazing dark chamber. There are a couple of impressive arches visible in the chamber.

From the chamber, continue straight and to the left up and over a few boulders between the two big arches. Stay left and find the most difficult obstacle of the day, a short chimney up climb. There is a good hand high and right that makes this easier than it appears, but those unused to such moves may be happy to have some assistance

Above the chimney, a boulder blocks the path and must be crawled under. This has to be done ace up to be able to squirm out the other side! After the boulder it is a couple of minutes to the top where the crack opens. Continue a couple of more minutes to the trail junction on the edge of the large field area. If returning via the wide cracks, the route down is the crack just left of this junction.

The Wide Crack
From the bottom junction, the Wide is the obvious wide crack to the left. This requires a bit of boulder hopping to get into but is then very straightforward to the top. Once on top, continue a few minutes to a trail junction at the end of a large field area. This junction is at the top of the Narrow.

Wolfberg Arch
From the trail junction at the top of the Narrow/Wide at the end of the large field area, continue on the well-used trail. It is about 5 km to the arch, but after about 15-20 minutes, the arch comes into view in the distance. Even if not making the entire hike to the arch, it is worthwhile to walk to the first view of it.

The trail is easy to follow in most places. When in doubt, look for cairns. Just below the arch, an old wilderness sign marks a junction. The trail splits. Go left, and the trail meanders up to the arch. On return, you can circle back down to this junction.

Return the same way.

I already turned the extruder temp up by 15 degrees total but this didn't make a difference. It's now printing at 255 degrees.
It actually made things worse.
You need to eliminate thermal expansion as much as possible, so you need to print at the lowest possible temperature. Try 230-235 instead of 240. You also need to keep the output hot, so set the bed to 100 or 110 degrees.
Also, don't use linear types of infill. Try honeycomb.

With ABS you need an environment enclosure. The Prusa I3 Mk2 open frame printer is not good with ABS unless you do so. Prints warp and lift and upper layers need work. Try Simplyfy3d as your slicer and you can do better. ABS is on its way out, look to new materials coming out, ie PLA Plus.

I built an enclosure around mine using a sheet of 1/2" rigid foam insulation cut into 2'x2' squares and taped together. It made a huge difference in printing ABS. I also switched the default warm up G-code in slic3r so that the bed warms up fully before the hotend starts to warm up. It adds a few minutes to the print time but nothing significant and it helps heat up the enclosure a bit before starting. If an enclosure doesn't help, a draft shield around the part might also help.

I disagree that ABS is on the way out, although things like PLA Plus or PETG may be gaining popularity, ABS still has it's place. I personally use it anytime I need to be able to solvent weld multiple parts together. It's also cheaper than PETG or PLA+ per cm^3.

If the plastic bag over the printer doesn't work try printing as cold as possible. I mainly print ABS and just started printing in other materials but always go back to ABS. Also if you print it cold you won't get a lot of layer strength in the print but if you brush some acetone on it will make it solid

thanks for the tips. an enclosure is hard because i barely have room already for the printer.
I use ABS because this is very heat resistant and i use it for cosplay parts that i wear in the sun and need to be black. (thus soaking up heat).
I obviously transport these in the car as well and sometimes leave some parts behind in the car.
I know PETG is a other good solution, but does apparantly not easily bond parts to each other. Exept with super glue, but super glue has a very easy breaking point.
ABS can be "melted" together.

The bad layer bonding could also be a result of water absorbed from the air in your ABS filament. If you hear small pop and cracks from nozzle when extruding, this is a sign of water in the filament.
The moister can be removed by heating up the ABS filament to 60-65 degree C for a least 2 hours.

As a home builder I love trim. Trim around doors, baseboards, chair rail, etc, etc. I love all of it. Trim allows you to neatly cap off surfaces and join different surfaces together all while keeping everything clean and intentional looking.

That's why it pains me to see trim done so poorly in many homes, new and old. Gaps, cracks, and unfilled nail holes are some of the most common issues I see. And it's super easy to fix stuff like that, anyone can do it in an afternoon.

So I figured I'd make this little guide showing you how you can touch up your trim and get it looking better than new! It's a great little project for those of us who are still stuck at home during the lockdown. Why not freshen up your place a little bit if you're going to spending so much time at home, right?

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