Eastman Pro Software Manual

[Tinisha]

Order Film by Number

All Eastman Films may be distinguished by the numbers on the ends of the cartons. A-122 is the number of film for this camera ( No. 3A Autographic Kodak) . Thenumber appears on the carton, on the cartridge, and on the Autographic door which islocated on the back of the Kodak.

Autographic film can be used in old style Kodaks, old style film can be used inAutographic Kodaks, but to get autographic results, Autographic film must be used in anAutographic Kodak.

IMPORTANT

When Autographing film, bear down with the stylus as heavily as the paper willstand without tearing.

Before LoadingBEFORE taking any pictures with the No. 3A Autographic Kodak read the followinginstructions carefully. Make yourself perfectly familiar with the instrument, taking especialcare to learn how to operate the shutter. Work it for both time and instantaneous exposuresseveral times before threading up the film.

The first and most important thing for the amateur to bear in mind is that the lightwhich serves to impress the photographic image upon the sensitive film in a small fractionof a second when it comes through the lens, can destroy the film as quickly as it makes thepicture. Throughout all the operations of loading and unloading, be extremely careful tokeep the red paper wound tightly around the film to prevent the admission of light.

EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY, ROCHESTER, N. Y.

CONTENTS

PART I.Loading the Camera ....3Loading with Film ....3Loading with Plates...7PART II.Making the Exposures ...9Operating the Shutter. .10

Instantaneous Exposures ..12Time Exposures . .24Flash-Light Pictures ...30

The Rising and Sliding Front ..33PART III.

Removing the Film . . ..37Finishing the Pictures.. ..42

PART ILoading with Film The film for the No 3A Autographicl.Kodak is furnished in light proof carriages and the instrument can therefore beloaded in daylight. The operation should,however, be performed in a subdued light,not in the glare of the bright sunlight. Itshould also be borne in mind that after theseal is broken care must be taken to keep thered paper taut on the spool, otherwise it mayA-122slip and loosen sufficiently to fog the film.

- The Autographic Film Cartridge is made with a thin red instead of the familiar thick red and black (duplex) paper.The thin red paper is not light proof in itself. Between it and the film is inserted a strip of tissue. The tissue serves two purposes: To supplement the red paperin light proofing the cartridge, and to permit the recording, by light, of the writing upon the film.

1. To load the Kodak, take a position where the daylight is somewhat subdued, and grasping theinstrument with the left hand remove the back by pressing in simultaneously with the thumb andsecond finger of the right hand as indicated in Fig. I.

2. The Kodak having been opened, an empty spool having a slit in it will be seen in the windingend of the camera. This forms the reel on which tile film is wound after exposure. The full spool is tobe placed in the recess at the opposite end of the Kodak. To accomplish this pull out spool pins asshown in Fig. II.

3. Drop the film cartridge into this recess. as shown in Fig. III Be careful to get the top of thespool at the top of the camera. The top is the winding side of the camera. Each cartridge is marked with the word"Top" on the red paper near the top of the spool.

Note - If the cartridge is inserted wrong end up, the red paper instead of the film will be brought next to the lens, resulting,of course, in the absolute loss of the pictures

4. Push spool pins into place so that spool revolves upon them.

5. Remove the gummed slip that holds the end of the red paper, pass the paper over the twoaluminum rollers and thread into the slit in reel, as shown in Fig. IV. Be careful in so doing that thepaper draws straight and true.

To secure a tight grip on the red paper, do not unfold the end, but thread it into the slit inreel with the paper creased. By doing this the red paper will not be liable to slip.

6. Give the key one or two slight turns - just enough to bind the paper on the reel - and no more.See Fig. V.

The paper should now be in position indicated in Fig. (VI)7. Replace the back on Kodak, being careful to put it on right side up (the wide catch at the top), and snapping the springs at the top and bottom fully into place. Care should always be taken to handle the back of Kodak carefully, especially when it is detached from camera, as even a slight bend would make it fit badly, resulting very probably in a leakage of light and consequent loss of film.

Throughout the foregoing operation, from the time the gummed slip is cut on the fresh roll of film until the backis once more in place, keep the red paper wound tightly on the roll. If it is allowed to loosen, light will be admittedand the film fogged.

8. The roll of film in the camera is covered with red paper and this must be partly reeled offbefore a picture can be taken. Turn the key slowly to the left and watch the little red celluloidwindow at the back of the camera. When 15 to 18 turns have been given, a hand pointing toward thefirst number will appear, then turn slowly until the figure 1 is exactly in the center of the redwindow. Fig. VII.

The film is now in position for taking the first picture. Press in slightly when turning the winding key, so as to make sure thatthe web on the key stayswithin the slot in the top of spool. Loading with Plates 1. If using glass plates the plate holders must be loaded in a dark-room--that is, a room fromwhich all white light has been excluded. The only light permissible is a dark ruby light, such as canbe obtained from a properly constructed dark-room lamp.

2. Provide also:

No. 3A F. P. Kodak Combination Back.

No. 3A F. P. Plate Holders.

1 dozen Seed Dry Plates,

3 1/4 x 5 1/4. Kodak Dark-room Lamp.

Ashelf or table on which to work.

3. Light the lamp and place it upon the table.

4. Remove the dark slides from the plate holders.

5. Open the box of plates by running a thin knife blade around the edge of the box.

6. Take out one of the plates and place it in the holder face up. (The face is the dull side.) Brushgently over the face of the plate with a camel's hair brush to remove dust.

7. Replace the dark slide in the holder.

8. Repeat the operation until all the plate holders have been filled, then close up the remainingplates in the box, wrap up securely and put them away in a dark drawer.

The remaining operations may be performed in daylight.

9. Remove the back from the camera as before described. (See page 4.)

NOTE - There must, of course, be no film in the Kodak when opening it for use with plates.

10. Remove the back of the adapter by pressing down on the inside spring catch and sliding sameout. Then insert ground glass panel for focusing, being sure that side marked front faces the lens.Snap the combination back into place, taking care that the springs at each side engage with thecatches and that the back is right side up, i. e., the plate holder should draw from the end towards theKodak handle.

11. Focus carefully with the largest stop before the lens, and when the lines show sharp and true,close the shutter, remove the ground glass, pressing down on catch at the bottom to remove it, and insert oneof the plate holders.

12. Pull out the dark slide. The plate is now in position for making the first picture, and theexposure should be made the same as for films. After making the exposure re-insert the dark slide inplate holder. Remove the plate holder from the camera by means of leather lug, pressing backslightly on same to start it. Focusing with Scale When Using Combination Back

As it may sometimes be desirable to focus by scale when using plates, the Kodak may be focusedin the same manner as for films, the slight variation in focal plane being provided for by asupplementary focusing scale situated directly under the film scale. Merely lift up the scale used forfilm, and the plate scale will appear.

PART IIThe general instructions in this No. 3A Autographic Kodak manual apply equally well to thecamera, whether fitted with Rapid Rectilinear or f. 7.7 Anastigmat Lens.

Making the ExposuresBefore making an exposure with the No. 3A Autographic Kodak, either time or instantaneous, besure of four things:

FIRST- That the shutter is adjusted properly. (For instantaneous, time or bulb exposure.)

SECOND - That the diaphragm lever is placed at the proper stop opening.

THIRD - That the camera is focused.

FOURTH - That an unexposed section of the film is turned into position. (Or a fresh plate is ready for exposure.)

This illustration shows the shutter on the Kodak when it is equipped with the Rapid Rectilinear Lens.Note - Exposures are made by pressing push-pin at end of cable release D or pushing down on release C.

The shutter is self-setting.

Avoid making too sharp a bend in the cable release, as by doing so it will be liable to kink. Operating the ShutterPerfect familiarity with the shutter is essential to successful picture taking with any camera. Thefollowing directions should, therefore, be carefully read and the shutter operated several times beforethreading the film up for use.Instantaneous ExposuresFIRST- Set the lever A at 25, 50 or 100 (representing the speeds of the shutter), according to thetime of instantaneous exposure desired.

Note - The lever A should be used at 100, only when taking moving objects in bright sunshine, and lever B must always be placed at No.4 or f. 7.7 when taking this kind of a picture.

Second - Set the lever B at No. 8 or f. 11. Lever B controls the Iris diaphragm and No. 8 or f. 11 isthe proper opening for ordinary instantaneous exposures in bright sunlight, using speed 25.

NOTE - For instantaneous exposures when the sunlight is unusually strong and there are no heavy shadows such as in views on theseashore or on the water use diaphragm No. 16 and speed 50. With light clouds or slightly smoky atmosphere use No. 4 or f. 7.7 andspeed 25. With heavy clouds do not attempt instantaneous exposures.

Third - Press push-pin or push down on release C. This makes the exposure.

Note - Press push pin with a firm, quick movement. At the same time be sure to hold the Kodak rigid, as a slight jarring will cause a blurred negative.

Time ExposuresFIRST - Set the lever A at the point T (time). This adjusts the shutter for time exposures.

Second - Set the lever B at No. 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 or 128. If the Kodak is equipped with the f. 7.7Anastigmat lens, set the lever at f. 7..7, 11, 16, 22, 32 or 45. See instructions for the use of thestops for Interior Exposures as given in table on page 26, also the table for Time Exposures inthe Open Air, page 28.

Third - Press the push-pin. This opens the shutter. Time the exposure by a watch. Again press thepush-pin. This closes the shutter. Shutter may be opened by pressing release C and closed by asecond pressure if desired.

Bulb ExposuresWhen it is desirable to make a very short time exposure this is best accomplished by making a "bulb exposure."

First - Set the lever A at the point "B" (bulb). This adjusts the shutter for "bulb" exposures.

Second - Set the lever B at No. 4, 8, 16, 32, 64 or 128. If the Kodak is equipped with the f. 7.7Anastigmat lens set the lever at f. 7.7, 11, 16, 22, 32 or 45. See instructions for the use of thestops for Interior Exposures as given in table on page 26; also the table for Time Exposures inthe Open Air, page 28.

Third Press push-pin or release C to open the shutter and release it to close the shutter. This makesthe exposure. The shutter will remain open as long as the push-pin or release C is underpressure.

ImportantDo not oil any part of the shutter.

In case of accident return shutter to your dealer or to us for repairs. As a general rule, make exposureswith the cable release instead of with the releaseC, as the cable release is less likely to jar the camera.

Instantaneous Exposures"SNAPSHOTS

When making ordinary instantaneous pictures the subject must be in the broad, open sunlight, butthe camera should not.

The sun should be behind the back or over the shoulder of the operator.

Focus on the Subject 1. Press the concealed button as shown in Fig. I and push down the bed of camera to the limit of motion.

2. Set the locking device on the index plate for the distance desired, grasp the springs at thebottom of the front board and pull out the front to the limit of motion. Fig. II.

On the camera bed will be found an index plate which is divided for 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 25, 50and 100 feet. _ This is for focusing the camera. NOTE - The index plate is scaled both _ for feet and meters and care should be taken not to confound them. Except when photographing at_ a distance of 15 feet or less, it is not necessary to estimate thedistance with any more than approximate accuracy; for instance if the focus issetat 25 feet (the usual distance for ordinary street work) the sharpest part of the picture will be theobjects at that distance from the camera, but everything from 15 to 35 feet willbe in good focus. For general street work the focus may be kept at 25 feet, but where theprincipal object is nearer or farther away, the focus should be changed accordingly. Everything beyond 100 feet is in the 100feet focus. Nothing nearer than 6 feet can be focused without using the Portrait Attachment. See page27.

Automatic Locking Device The automatic locking device which is on the right side of camera bed will be found a greatconvenience in focusing.

By means of this device the front locks automatically at 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 25, 50 or 100 feet focus.

To set the focus, pull over and slide the lever shown in diagram, and set catch in the slot markedfor the distance desired. Then pull out front of camera lo limit of motion and the camera will be infocus for the distance at which you have set the catch.

With PlatesWhen using plates with the combination back, the ground glass or the supplementary scale (seepage 8) can be used for focusing, as the Automatic Locking Device in this case cannot be employed.

Use Stop No. 8, or f. 11For all ordinary out-door work when the sun is bright, use stop No. 8 or f. 11 and use speed 25. Ifa smaller stop is used for ordinary snapshots, the light will be so much reduced that it will notsufficiently impress the image on the film and failure will result.

When making portraits out of doors, when the sun is shining bright, place the subject in the shadeof a building or large tree, but with clear and unobstructed sky overhead,--then use stop No. 4 or f.7.7 and use speed 25. By following this rule unpleasant and distorting shadows on the face will beavoided.

In views on the water when the sunlight is unusually strong and there are no heavy shadows,diaphragm No. 16 and speed 50 may be used.

If a smaller stop opening than No. 16 is used for snapshots absolute failure will result, except thatNo. 32 or f. 22 may be used for extremely distant views, marine or snow scenes or clouds, in brightsunshine using speed 25.

Locate the Image Aim the camera at the object to be photographed and locate the image in the finder. For ahorizontal picture hold the camera as shown in Fig. III, reversing the finder, as indicated. Alwayslook into the finder from directly over it, not at an angle. (Of course, when using plates and the focusing glass is employed, the image willbe located on that instead of in the finder.)

For a vertical exposure the camera must be held as shown in Fig. IV. The finder gives the scopeof view and shows a facsimile of the picture as it will appear, but on a reduced scale.

Any object that does not show in the finder will not show in the picture.

It will be noticed that the top of the finder is notched as shown in Fig. V. This is done so that onefinder will correctly show the view included when the Kodak is held in either horizontal or verticalposition. As the picture taken with the No. 3A Autographic Kodak is oblong it will readily be seenthat unless the finder was made in this manner it could not correctly show the exact view intendedwhen held in either position. Remember that only the view indicated in the dotted lines will show in the picture.

Fig. VI shows how to hold the camera when making an exposure without the use of the cablerelease. Grasp the bed of Kodak firmly with the left hand, steady it with the right, and with thethumb of the right hand lightly touch the exposure lever.

Hold It LevelThe Kodak must be held level.

If the operator attempts to photograph a tall building while standing near it, by pointing thecamera upward (thinking thereby to center it) the result will be similar to Fig. VII, page 20.

When making this picture the camera was pointed too high. This building should have been takenfrom the building opposite and at a level corresponding with the middle of the subject.

IMPORTANT

When making instantaneous exposures, hold the instrument firmly against the body, asshown in illustrations, and when operating the cable release or pressing the exposure lever, hold thebreath for the instant.The operator should hold the camera level, after withdrawing to a proper distance, as indicated bythe image shown in the finder on the front of the camera.

Note - The rising front may be used in helping to center high objects on the plate. See page 33.

If the object is down low, like a small child or a dog, the Kodak should be held down level withthe center of the object.

When making the exposure:

--hold the Kodak steady,

--hold it level,

--press push-pin oncable release.

The Autographic FeatureThe Autographic Kodak has a spring door on the back, covering a narrow slot through which thewriting is done upon the red paper. The slot is provided with an automatic safety spring border whichoperates when the door is open to press the papers into contact with back of the film, thus securingthe sharp printing of the image of the writing and preventing the diffusion of light around the edges of the slot. This slot is located so that normallythe writing comes between the exposures.

The Autographic Record as a Guide

Many amateurs have distinctly improved the quality of their work by making notes, at the time ofexposure, of the prevailing conditions. As. Bright light, 1/25 sec., stop No. 8, which, by the way, canbe easily abbreviated to: B. 1/25, 8. By keeping such records the amateur can quickly find the causeof failure, if any. By comparing negatives and records he will soon get a line on his errors and when heknows what his errors are, he can easily rectify them. It is obvious that the best way to make theserecords is autographically - on the film, at the time.

The Operation After the picture is taken, lift up the spring door with thumb (Fig. VIII). Use the stylus, held in asupright a position as is convenient, and write on the strip of exposed red paper any memorandum desired, such as the title of the picture, the date, or details in regardto the exposure, light, stops, etc. (Fig. IX).

The "Autographic Negative" printed below is merely to suggest a few of the thousand andoneways in which autographic records may be used to add value to your negatives.To get a clear impression, press firmly on both up and down strokes. While writing orafterwards the sun should not be allowed to shine upon the paper. The action of the stylus so affectsthe tissue as to permit the light to record the writing upon the film. After finishing the writing, thedoor should be left open for the printing, in accordance with the following table:

(Expose to the sky, but not to the sun.) OUT OF DOORS INDOORS CLOSE TO WINDOW BRILLIANT LIGHT 2 to 5 Seconds 5 to 7 Seconds DULL LIGHT 5 to 10 Seconds 10 to 15 Seconds INCANDESCENT LIGHT, distance 2 inches, 30 to 60 sec.

Welsbach Light, distance 6 inches, 30 to 60 sec.

Close the door before winding a new film into place.

Caution. In order to locate the writing accurately in the space between the negatives it isimportant that the film should be turned so that the exposure number centers perfectly in the redwindow of the Kodak.

TURN A NEW SECTION OF FILM INTO POSITION: Press in slightly and turn the key in top ofcamera slowly to the left, until the next number appears before the window. Three or four turnswill be sufficient to accomplish this. Fig. X. The warning hand appears before No. 1. Repeat the foregoing operations for each picture.Important. When you haveused the last exposure on yourroll of film and have made theautographic record of it in accordance with the foregoingdirections, turn the windingkey of the Kodak until a letter (A) appears in the center of the window in the back of the Kodak. Raise the spring-door and writeyour name on the red paper, expose it to the sky the same as was done when making the exposurerecords, then close the spring-door and finish winding film and red paper for removal from theKodak. Your film is now ready to send to your finisher and when developed will be readily identifiedby the autographic copy of - your name which you wrote on the red paper.

Time ExposuresINTERIORS Set camera in such a position that the finder will embrace the view desired.

The diagram shows the p rope r positions for the Kodak. It should not be pointed directly at awindowas the glare of light will blur the picture. If all the windows cannot be avoided, pulldown the shades of such as come within the range of the Kodak. To make a time exposure place the Kodak on some firm support,like a chair or table, and focus as before described. Be sure, however, to place the Kodak not morethan two or three inches from the edge so as to avoid including part of the chair or table in thepicture.

Fig. XI shows the Kodak in position for a vertical exposure. The Kodak is also provided withtripod sockets and may be used on a tripod.

When it is desired to make a horizontal time exposure without the use of a tripod, pull down leverat side of focusing scale and place Kodak in position, as shown in Fig. XII (page 25). Adjust the shutter for a time exposure as described on page 11.

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