Still trying to repower L600

[Dozer]

I have been all over the internet on this little L600.
Well first off I should post my rebuild project.
Purchased L600 to compliment my Bobcat 873 for barn cleaning jobs. Ran
just long enough for me to appreciate it and want to fix it. Wheel
started wobbling indicating worn bearings. Engine quit running due to
bad carb.
Found out that that model carb no longer exists and engine was pretty
much shot anyway. Need to repower.
Have taken off old axle tubes. Gotten in new bearings, cups and seals,
(Thanks Tex for your fantastic photobucket page) Am putting back on
the axles and will be tightening chains.

Came across a set of 4 brand new skidsteer tires in correct size for
$100.

So far I am in about $325 with the labor to have the new cups and
bearings put in (no shop press)
I will also be adding hoses for the third valve so I can construct a
grapple bucket.

The hold up is in the engine. I can't find a used horizontal shaft
engine in useable shape and a 16-24hp Briggs or Honda with tank and
muffler is closer to $1500 than I want to be.

My question is this. It originally came with a 16hp Onan Engine. I can
find great deals on Honda and Briggs and off-brand 13 hp engines for
around $400. Would a modern 13hp engine be as good as a 1970s Onan
16hp engine? I can't find any specs on the That year of Onan engine to
determine torque.

I know that many of you have repowered your rounders with 18-24hp
engines and I was also wondering if you have seen noticeable increase
in HP and torque?

thanks,
Dozer

[Dozer]

So far I have gotten a few emails to my personal but not on here so I
will summarize what I have been getting.

If I can find a 16-24hp Horizontal engine for less than $1000 I should
definetely let everyone else know where they are as well.

If I get a 20+HP engine I will be happier.

Used engines are a real risk to take.

ROunder went to a 18hp engine shortly after having the 16hp engine
because it wasn't enough for the skidsteer. So trying to get by with a
13hp is a recipe for dissapointment.

THanks to all who have emailed me with ideas and personal stories.

DOZER

[swr]

Thanks for the summation. I've wondered the same thing. Mine was re-
powered with a 25 hp kohler and I think that was overkill. The
exhaust heat with that big kohler is to close to the seat and i havent
found a good way to route the exhaust away that is any better. The
nice thing about the original engines is the top exhaust, all the
current ones seem to have the ports on the crank side. You mentioned
tightening the chains, I need to do that also. How is that done?

Thanks

Scott

[DAN SCOTT]

When I did the Briggs 23 the exhaust routing was tight but worked without any mods to the rounder.  I had to raise the seat up off of the seat base with about 3/4" of washers to fix the hot butt problem.

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[Dozer]

Here is where I am at right now

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/
DSC01033.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/
DSC01038.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/
DSC01034.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/
DSC01036.jpg[/IMG]

[Dozer]

Here is my other thought.

Has anyone thought of using a 1:1 90 degree gearbox?

So basically this

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=13-1462&catname=powerTrans

underneath this. with the correct bracketry

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=28-1766&catname=engines

what do you guys see being the "catch" here?

[Francis]

The "catch" , from what I can see is:
1. Will the 90 deg. be able to handle the 3000+ RPM the engine will
be turning at operational speeds.
2. Raising the motor up 6+ inches is going to raise the CG (center
of gravity). Tip-over can become an increased risk in turns and tilt-
back will be on the increase with an empty bucket.
This could be partially fixed by using the s-10 brake drum wheel
weights that one of the group came up with for his.



My ideas on the "catch".

Francis

[Mike]

ihave been ubing the same setup on my logspliter for many years.
running a 12.5 HP with a regular 2 stage pump. havent had any
problems. brackets were easy because you basically have to stop the
pump from turning. square plate on the pump setting in a square cage.
nothing fancy. on a tractor when you run a PTO pump, only a light
chain holds the pump, of course thats onle 540 or 1000 rpm. took my
idea from that and it worked.

[Mike]

sory for all the spelling errors, seem to have a case of fat fingers

On Dec 12, 12:33 pm, Mike <mike1...@winco.net> wrote:
> i have been using the same setup on my logspliter for many years.

> running a 12.5 HP with a regular 2 stage pump. havent had any
> problems. brackets were easy because you basically have to stop the
> pump from turning. square plate on the pump  setting in a square cage.
> nothing fancy. on a tractor when you run a PTO pump, only a light

> chain holds the pump, of course thats only 540 or 1000 rpm. took my

> idea from that and it worked.
>
> On Dec 11, 11:55 pm, Dozer <nvrb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Here is my other thought.
>
> > Has anyone thought of using a 1:1 90 degree gearbox?
>
> > So basically this
>
> >https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=13-1462&catname=powerTrans
>
> > underneath this.  with the correct bracketry
>
> >https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=28-1766&catname=engines
>

> > what do you guys see being the "catch" here?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Dozer]

Yes I know the gearbox I linked will not work simply because of the
RPM's I was hoping someone would know where to find me a 90 degree
gearbox that could take those RPMs.

I am not too worried about my COG since I will be weighting the area
under the engine mount anyway and that should keep the weight low
enough.

If someone can find me the gearbox I will carry through with this
idea.

In the meantime I will continue my search for either that gearbox or a
decent priced Horizontal shaft motor.

DOZER

[Dozer]

Just got the axle tubes back on this evening. Man that was a lot of
work and I still need to get the cotter pins in. At least I have all
the holes lined up so I just have to push them through and bend the
ends.

Just a tip for everyone else. Just go ahead and remove the side
shields if your opening up the top cover anyway. It makes it much
simpler to work on. I also added the grease zerks like Texacoon did. I
then had them press in standard wheel studs to make the whole issue of
mounting rims easier and hopefully they not ruin the rims like the
other method did. Used simply RTV gasket sealer for the axle tubes.
Layered on both sides and once partially cured used my finger to
smooth out the excess. Hopefully will keep oil out for a good while.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/IMG00072-20101218-2026.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/IMG00071-20101218-2026.jpg

<a href="http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/?
action=view&amp;current=IMG00070-20101218-1858.jpg"
target="_blank"><img src="http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/
BASHBRO1/skidsteer/IMG00070-20101218-1858.jpg" border="0" alt="Left
side complete"></a>

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f332/BASHBRO1/skidsteer/
IMG00069-20101218-1732.jpg[/IMG]

[John_w]

On Dec 8, 6:35 pm, Dozer <nvrb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> The hold up is in the engine. I can't find a used horizontal shaft
> engine in useable shape and a 16-24hp Briggs or Honda with tank and
> muffler is closer to $1500 than I want to be.
>
> My question is this. It originally came with a 16hp Onan Engine. I can
> find great deals on Honda and Briggs and off-brand 13 hp engines for
> around $400. Would a modern 13hp engine be as good as a 1970s Onan
> 16hp engine? I can't find any specs on the That year of Onan engine to
> determine torque.
>
> I know that many of you have repowered your rounders with 18-24hp
> engines and I was also wondering if you have seen noticeable increase
> in HP and torque?
>
> thanks,
> Dozer

I just read a post on the welding web where a guy bought an engine for
a small Bobcat. It is a 16 HP horz shaft engine. What the guy said
was:
"I got the engine from Carrol Stream Motor Company off of Ebay for
$369 and free shipping. I have bought from them before and gotten good
service. They are chinese clones, but they are made by Lifan which is
good for chinese. "

To read the whole thread, see: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?p=450538#post450538

I don't know anything about the engines, but this guy says he has had
good luck. On the other hand, if you buy a good ol American engine,
it is probably made in China as well.

John

[DAN SCOTT]

Good luck finding parts for the Chinese engine.

These guys have horizontal shaft engines on clearance every once in awhile. 

http://www.smallenginedistributors.net/index.html

Schlitzguzzler

[Dozer]

I must confess that I have sinned.
I purchased a Carrol Motor Company chinese 16hp Engine.
It will get this rebuild back on track for now.
The machine will be lucky to get 20 hours a year use since my 873
Bobcat does most of the work. I figure even if its only good for 100
hours thats 5 years of use and we can buy another one or a good motor
if it comes along.
I will report back if it works OK.
thanks,
Lucas

[Dozer]

OK. I will post pictures as soon as I get some.
Progress report
Engine Installed. Needed to raise engine 1" to line up with lovejoy
coupler. Wheels back on with new tires, Chaincase completely cleaned
out and filled with fresh fluid. Chaincase cover replaced. Just need
to do some fine tuning with the engine to get the belts to stay on and
figure out what do do with the muffler. (factory one blows into pillar
and is loud as sin)
Fired up OK but I see is leaking a little hydro oil our of drive pump.
(Great)
Like I said once its up and running 100% I will post pics and
hopefully a link to a video.
thanks for all the help,
DOZER

[John_w]

On Dec 30, 10:36 pm, Dozer <nvrb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OK. I will post pictures as soon as I get some.
> Progress report

I'm looking forward to seeing your project. I think my B&S engine had
to be lifted a bit. The bracket for my hydraulic pump was home made
and has a lot of adjustment, perhaps for the same reason, to bring the
pump down to the engine crank.

My humble experience is that the hydraulic pump tends to leak it the
alignment isn't very very close to dead on. Mine leaked a LOT and I
had a hydraulic ship go through it. When I reinstalled it, it wasn't
much better.

Then I had to change the drive belt. When I reinstalled the engine I
tried to put it back exactly where it had been, but I failed. Lucky
me! The pump quit leaking! Before the engine comes out again I'm
going to make and install an angle iron guide so the alignment stays
where it should be.

The exhaust on my B&S is less than I could have hoped for, but there
isn't much room. I haven't fooled with it.

John

[DAN SCOTT]

I had to raise my engine up an 1 1/4".  I used 1" square tube with 1/4" strap welded to it. Hope these pics help................

Schlitzguzzler