L1000 won't turn and lacks power

[Troy Schulner]

So I just bought my first skid steer and it happens to be a rounder l1000 I have never worked on a skid steer before let alone know how all the internals work. But it was that time in life to upgrade and I ran across this rounder. It moves forward backward the bucket works fine it simply won't turn unless I jerk the levers repeatedly when trying to turn left its as if the levers are working against each other there's a certain point where the left lever won't go back without the right never pulling backwards. Could that be a bad pump? Another thing the manual and the skid steer both said to use 10w40 oil for the hydrolics that seems a bit thick considering I live in Wisconsin is there possibly something thinner I could run without hurting the machine? Could this possibly solve my issue. It also seems like it lacks power it struggles with simple inclines.

[Dummy]

Not sure about your L1000 but I have a L600 and there is a decal on my hydraulic tank that says to use Type F ATF.  I live in Wisconsin and use it all year round with no problems.

[Troy Schulner]

I did find a pin in the belly pan about an inch and a half long with threads on the top and a slot for a flat head I'm unsure if this is important but mine says to use 10w40 right by the tank I'm just unsure if anything lighter will damage the hydraulics or not

[Dummy]

Ya, that pin sounds important to me.  I can only guess but it may be from one of your levers?  Wish I could be more help on your hydraulic oil but I wouldn't suggest using anything other than what the decal states personally.  You could however contact your local hydraulic repair shop for advice if you have one.  Here is the name and contact information for the place I buy parts and have hoses made up, they are very knowledgeable:

Planert Hydraulics

715-834-4178

[Troy Schulner]

I walked into the garage tonight and was overwhelmed by the smell of gas I opened the back door and found my carb was leaking gas fairly quickly I'm going to go ahead and start there with the lack of power issues but thank you for the input

[steve z]

You should read some dialog I had with greg in this Rounder Group.  His problems ended up being a bad engine, with bad compression.    Regarding hydro static fluids, I don't understand using 10-40w oil.  I'd go with Tractor Supply Universal fluids for hydrostatics, they are better than motor oils and Type F.  Get an owners quide for your machine (should be available on line, maybe on this google group from some one) and fine out if if your control arms are working correct with your hydro pumps...these mechanical systems are prone to wear and failure as they are 30-40 yrs old.   steve    

[Troy Schulner]

Well the carb was one issue it does run a lot a better now but it still won't turn I've looked at the linkages those are good not sloppy im simply running out of ideas here

[oldsquare1]

Hi Troy, I've had a Rounder L-1000 for 3 or 4 years now. I've been lucky so far...no major issues. My carb leaks too. Not ready to do any major teardowns at this point, so I put a shut off in the line and use if I'm going to be stopped for more than a couple minutes. I also replaced all the fuel line, by-passed the mechanical fuel pump, and installed an in-line electric unit. 

Now to your no-turn problem. The fact that it goes backwards indicates the pump is working. With the limited info I have I'm going to point you in two possible directions. It could be the left-side drive motor or problems with the drive chain(s) on that side. If you have any way to jack up the left side and secure the machine, try that to see if the left wheels rotate. About the only other way to check is to remove the left-side tires, and open the panel that accesses the drive chains to do a visual inspection. Those chains take a lot of abuse and will stretch enough to dislodge and/or destroy the sprockets. If it is not that, it will definitely be in the linkage. I haven't had mine apart, but I have studied the linkage on mine alot...what an over-complicated nightmare.

I am attaching a parts manual I found on-line. It appears to be a copy of an original and the quality of the exploded views is not great, but it is what is available. I have unable to find much info on the 1000's. they appear to be pretty rare.

Good luck,

Chuck

[Troy Schulner]

Thanks chuck I'll look into that today my chains are good I've had the chain case apart but about your leaky carb I found a rebuild kit on eBay for the zeinith carb it was $30 and it took me over all 45 min to have the carb out rebuilt and back in very simple repair just remove muffler and literally unhook the carb

[oldsquare1]

Finally had the time to rebuild my carburetor this past summer...pleasantly surprised how quick & easy it went. Wow what a difference it made...runs great and no more fuel leakage.....Thank you Troy for the motivation. I did still have a problem with vapor lock on hot days. While studying the carb situation I noticed the intake & exhaust manifolds are cast together with a "web" connecting them. Could not understand why in the world Wisconsin engineers did that, so did a bunch of research. Evidently back when these V-4's were designed, it was determined that introducing heat from the exhaust to the intake manifold, the fuel would more completely atomize. I suspect when that design was created these engines were not yet being placed in the confines of a skid steer engine compartment. I believe due to confinement and loss of efficiency of the air cooling components the carburetor and fuel become so hot it boils causing vapor lock. I read that some guys cut away some of the "webbing" thereby lessening the heat transfer. I'm going to try a different approach. I have rounded up an inline boat bilge ventilation blower with 3" inlet/outlet, a length of 3" aluminum flex hose, and a perforated drain cover that happens to lock perfectly into the hose. I'll draw fresh air from a hole cut into the steel control housing the seat sets on, and route to the carb/intake. I'll operate it with a toggle switch so I can shut it off in winter. Already done a test fit and the tubing will comfortably fit around the control mechanisms. 

So have you figured out he source of your no turn problem yet? And were you able to open/access the parts manual I sent.