Hydraulic Drive Motors
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TexAcoon
Apr 13, 2009, 4:53:25 PM4/13/09
to Rounder
Rounder Parts Catalog calls for three different types of Hydraulic
Motors that Rounder used:
#1) Motor, splined shaft [01082015]
#2) Motor, 1 1/4" dia. shaft [01082023]
#3) Motor, tapered shaft (1 1/4") [01082031]
What I have on my machine is a - #3) Motor, tapered shaft (1 1/4")
[01082031]
Which is:
TRW/Ross
346 78A MAB 16003 A1
This hydraulic motor can be replaced with the following brand
hydraulic motors:
Parker: TF0195HS080AABP
White: (RE Series) 500200W3122AAAAA
I do not have any information on the other two motors since I am
having a hard enough time chasing down my parts.
The best price I found so far was from http://www.hydraulicsuperstore.com
for the White RE Series motors. Price $334.95 (Suggested $589.00).
As a follow-up of the castle nut torque for the White motor:
Recommended @ 280 ft/lbs - Manufacture states: Starting torque should
be (230/240 ft/lbs until castle nut lines with hole for cotter pin).
Thinking my motors are original equipment and being old style and
(probably worn out) who knows ???? I can not see spending the $105.00
on a seal kit and then something later go wrong or blow another
seal.
I plan on keeping my Rounder for good, and passing it to my grandson
later. At least it will have the latest engine, hydraulic motors....
and when the Hydrostat pumps go might as well as replace them as
well .. As each component gives, just replace with new.
Yet shop around for the best pricing ....
"Do It Right - The First Time" and never look back..
Motors that Rounder used:
#1) Motor, splined shaft [01082015]
#2) Motor, 1 1/4" dia. shaft [01082023]
#3) Motor, tapered shaft (1 1/4") [01082031]
What I have on my machine is a - #3) Motor, tapered shaft (1 1/4")
[01082031]
Which is:
TRW/Ross
346 78A MAB 16003 A1
This hydraulic motor can be replaced with the following brand
hydraulic motors:
Parker: TF0195HS080AABP
White: (RE Series) 500200W3122AAAAA
I do not have any information on the other two motors since I am
having a hard enough time chasing down my parts.
The best price I found so far was from http://www.hydraulicsuperstore.com
for the White RE Series motors. Price $334.95 (Suggested $589.00).
As a follow-up of the castle nut torque for the White motor:
Recommended @ 280 ft/lbs - Manufacture states: Starting torque should
be (230/240 ft/lbs until castle nut lines with hole for cotter pin).
Thinking my motors are original equipment and being old style and
(probably worn out) who knows ???? I can not see spending the $105.00
on a seal kit and then something later go wrong or blow another
seal.
I plan on keeping my Rounder for good, and passing it to my grandson
later. At least it will have the latest engine, hydraulic motors....
and when the Hydrostat pumps go might as well as replace them as
well .. As each component gives, just replace with new.
Yet shop around for the best pricing ....
"Do It Right - The First Time" and never look back..
TexAcoon
Apr 13, 2009, 5:21:04 PM4/13/09
to Rounder
Just received a phone call from Kevin @ Riekes Equipment (Prime Mover
Dealer) in Omaha, Nebraska .. (402-593-1181)
What was interesting, I provided Kevin with Rounder's part number -
hydraulic motors they can get for $104.00 each and are in stock.
Unfortunately the cost of the hydraulic motors sold for well over
$900.00... (we both flipped out on the cost)
So those that may need to replace their double sprocket(s) on their
drive motors .. I didn't think that was a bad price at all.. Figure
for time it takes to machine (taper and key) and to weld two
sprockets... Not a bad price at all ...
Check out your local motorcycle shop and call for replacement
sprockets .. WHEW! you will faint hearing those prices..
As far as the hydraulic motors go? ... WELL! we have found better
prices already ....
Dealer) in Omaha, Nebraska .. (402-593-1181)
What was interesting, I provided Kevin with Rounder's part number -
Motor, tapered shaft (1 1/4") [01082031]
He returned my call to let me know that the double sprocket for the
hydraulic motors they can get for $104.00 each and are in stock.
Unfortunately the cost of the hydraulic motors sold for well over
$900.00... (we both flipped out on the cost)
So those that may need to replace their double sprocket(s) on their
drive motors .. I didn't think that was a bad price at all.. Figure
for time it takes to machine (taper and key) and to weld two
sprockets... Not a bad price at all ...
Check out your local motorcycle shop and call for replacement
sprockets .. WHEW! you will faint hearing those prices..
As far as the hydraulic motors go? ... WELL! we have found better
prices already ....
TexAcoon
Apr 14, 2009, 9:55:18 PM4/14/09
to Rounder
Well Boyz! ...
The latest is I ordered my new hydraulic motors today!
[per the wife's request - apparently she sees some real value with
this machine after last week] ..
Should be here by Friday ... We shall see about this! ...
I still have to get those shaft nuts off to remove the sprockets from
the old motors...
WHEW! They are on there PREEETY GOOD! ....
The latest is I ordered my new hydraulic motors today!
[per the wife's request - apparently she sees some real value with
this machine after last week] ..
Should be here by Friday ... We shall see about this! ...
I still have to get those shaft nuts off to remove the sprockets from
the old motors...
WHEW! They are on there PREEETY GOOD! ....
TexAcoon
Apr 18, 2009, 9:29:16 AM4/18/09
to Rounder
Fred,
Removed the nut which retains the sprocket to the shaft [appox 250 ft/
lbs]...
After removing the nut:
I can not get the sprocket to come off the shaft - and it does not
slide off the shaft.
I have used a puller trying to remove it with no luck and it does have
a lot of pressure..
Tried tapping the end of the puller to shock the pull again with no
luck.
Looked at the sprocket to check for set scres - No set screws
I am really at a loss now ....????
Removed the nut which retains the sprocket to the shaft [appox 250 ft/
lbs]...
After removing the nut:
I can not get the sprocket to come off the shaft - and it does not
slide off the shaft.
I have used a puller trying to remove it with no luck and it does have
a lot of pressure..
Tried tapping the end of the puller to shock the pull again with no
luck.
Looked at the sprocket to check for set scres - No set screws
I am really at a loss now ....????
Mike
Apr 18, 2009, 6:07:44 PM4/18/09
to Rounder
If you are absolutly sure it is not threaded on (sometimes this older
equipment has left hand threads) then put on the puller again, wrap
the motor in wet rags and heat her up. Keep a lot of tension on the
puller and she will pop with enough heat. Another trick id to lightly
heat it up and then spray it heavy with liquid wrench with the puller
on. Good luck
> > WHEW! They are on there PREEETY GOOD! ....- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
equipment has left hand threads) then put on the puller again, wrap
the motor in wet rags and heat her up. Keep a lot of tension on the
puller and she will pop with enough heat. Another trick id to lightly
heat it up and then spray it heavy with liquid wrench with the puller
on. Good luck
>
> - Show quoted text -
John_w
Apr 19, 2009, 12:11:10 PM4/19/09
to Rounder
TexAcoon wrote:
> Fred,
> Removed the nut which retains the sprocket to the shaft [appox 250 ft/
> lbs]...
>
> After removing the nut:
>
> I can not get the sprocket to come off the shaft - and it does not
> slide off the shaft.
> I have used a puller trying to remove it with no luck and it does have
> a lot of pressure..
> Tried tapping the end of the puller to shock the pull again with no
> luck.
>
> Looked at the sprocket to check for set scres - No set screws
>
>
> I am really at a loss now ....????
>
factory it came with semi-floating rear axles, and the drums were
attached to the axles with a taper - keyed - nut assembly. Usually
the nut wasn't too bad to get off these beasts, but the drum was
another matter. You just couldn't have a big enough wheel puller.
You have probably seen them with two ears sticking out, designed to be
beat with a sledge hammer, and three prongs going down to three lug
bolts.
The drill there was to hammer the heck out of the two ears, until you
had a LOT of pressure on the system, then as you did, hit the center
of the hub a few times and then back to the ears again. Usually 4 or
5 times of that would get you a loud POP, and it was off. Sometimes
it took more.
My Jeep has been changed so all that is now history, but I do know
that Jeep brakes don't get checked as much as they should as it's such
a chore to get into them.
Now I wonder why the change in the Rounder? When I disassembled mine,
the sprocket was loose to move along the shaft. There was a small
slot on the motor shaft like there may have once been a 'C' clip (I
ought to check our parts manual) but it wasn't there. I did tighten
the set screw when I put it back together. Maybe the newer motor is
a better motor, but that sprocket sure sounds like a bear to mess
with.
Do you have access to a hydraulic press? Mine is just a homemade 12
ton, but it has convinced a few stubborn things to see things my way.
Good Luck!
John
TexAcoon
Apr 20, 2009, 9:49:18 PM4/20/09
to Rounder
Finally getting the sprockets off both of the motors, they sat all
weekend long waiting for the new motors to come in ...
WELL! today they arrived, and about 1 1/2" shorter than the
originals! .. Isn't new technology great! .. Same motor design for
power, pressure, and GPM .. shafts all the same etc... Just newer
design ....
For new motors I went with WHITE brand, seems they are like PARKER
products, they have been on the market without all the trading between
partners over the years...
Tonight, I installed the sprockets on the new motors, installed the
motors in the Rounder and connected my hydraulic lines. Installed all
of my drive sprockets on the axles shafts. After all that bending
over, I decided to quit for the night. However, I could not wait to
operate the machine. Added fresh Premium Tractor/Transmission fluid
[Tractor Supply] and fired up the unit. Let it run a little to get
the air out of the system...
Engaged the drive and pulled lightly on each stick until fluid
evacuated the air out of the motors. Then when I could see them speed
up a little I added more stick pressure .... YUP! I think these are
going to work...
Also purchased on EBay a new Parker 3 Spool valve... It should be in
sometime this week ..
When will I install it? .. Well the Rounder has a lot of work to
do .. I removed most of the fencing on my property this week with the
exception of the small cedar post still in the ground [loose but won't
come out by hand]... Hopefully the Rounder will pull those out like
no tomorrow..
Until next time......... ;-)
weekend long waiting for the new motors to come in ...
WELL! today they arrived, and about 1 1/2" shorter than the
originals! .. Isn't new technology great! .. Same motor design for
power, pressure, and GPM .. shafts all the same etc... Just newer
design ....
For new motors I went with WHITE brand, seems they are like PARKER
products, they have been on the market without all the trading between
partners over the years...
Tonight, I installed the sprockets on the new motors, installed the
motors in the Rounder and connected my hydraulic lines. Installed all
of my drive sprockets on the axles shafts. After all that bending
over, I decided to quit for the night. However, I could not wait to
operate the machine. Added fresh Premium Tractor/Transmission fluid
[Tractor Supply] and fired up the unit. Let it run a little to get
the air out of the system...
Engaged the drive and pulled lightly on each stick until fluid
evacuated the air out of the motors. Then when I could see them speed
up a little I added more stick pressure .... YUP! I think these are
going to work...
Also purchased on EBay a new Parker 3 Spool valve... It should be in
sometime this week ..
When will I install it? .. Well the Rounder has a lot of work to
do .. I removed most of the fencing on my property this week with the
exception of the small cedar post still in the ground [loose but won't
come out by hand]... Hopefully the Rounder will pull those out like
no tomorrow..
Until next time......... ;-)
John_w
Apr 20, 2009, 11:03:02 PM4/20/09
to Rounder
John
TexAcoon
Apr 21, 2009, 9:46:08 PM4/21/09
to Rounder
Well Boyz! .... She's all back together and gave her a test drive
tonight ...
All is well! .. No more hydraulic oil going into the sump! No loss of
hydraulic fluid [except a little through the spool valve] ...
Everything so far seems to be running great! ...
OH! how I love being able to turn the key to the off position now and
hear the engine kill! .. That's good! ...
Tomorrow will be the ultimate challenge! .. I still have a pile of
dirt to move around the house and will give her a try...
The only thing I can honestly say I did not like about the
installation was:
The hydraulic motor sprockets went on like they should and measured
out like the previous Ross motors.. Just like the Ross motors the nut
that locks the sprockets into place was only a half nut... All I can
say is not only did I tighten the nut down to approx 100 Ft/Lbs ....
But the threads were coated with the RED Loctight! .. So its going to
take a heck of a lot to get those bad boys off!
Next Chapter of this story - "Installation of my new forks and back
plate ..."
Until next time! ... Yeepie Ki Yay!
tonight ...
All is well! .. No more hydraulic oil going into the sump! No loss of
hydraulic fluid [except a little through the spool valve] ...
Everything so far seems to be running great! ...
OH! how I love being able to turn the key to the off position now and
hear the engine kill! .. That's good! ...
Tomorrow will be the ultimate challenge! .. I still have a pile of
dirt to move around the house and will give her a try...
The only thing I can honestly say I did not like about the
installation was:
The hydraulic motor sprockets went on like they should and measured
out like the previous Ross motors.. Just like the Ross motors the nut
that locks the sprockets into place was only a half nut... All I can
say is not only did I tighten the nut down to approx 100 Ft/Lbs ....
But the threads were coated with the RED Loctight! .. So its going to
take a heck of a lot to get those bad boys off!
Next Chapter of this story - "Installation of my new forks and back
plate ..."
Until next time! ... Yeepie Ki Yay!
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