How To Install Autotune
Francisca Noggles
I'm working with Arduino IDE 1.6.12 (my OS is ubuntu 14.04). I was trying to install the PIDAutotune library Arduino Playground - PIDAutotuneLibrary by downloading the respective .zip-file from github, and then using the "Add .zip library" option in the Arduino IDE, as I have successfully done with other libraries. However, instead of installing the library, I receive the error message
The auto tune module is used to generate fueling adjustments that may be applied to the current mapping of a Power Commander. Dynojet makes Auto Tune for PC3, Auto tune-200, Wideband2 and possibly other modules that work with different kinds of Power Commander networks. Contact Dynojet to be sure the Auto Tune device you purchase is appropriate for your setup. The device that works with my PCV is Auto Tune-200.
There is no reason at all to use AutoTune over Wideband2. The WB2 is about $40 more but it has more adjustments through the LCD-200 for reading tach, AFR and rpm than Autotune. WB2 with the LCD-200 can also be used to access any channel with a 1-5 v sensor--so you can pick any sensor you want to receive data from if the WB2 does not already have that channel in its repertoire. If you're willing to tap into OEM sensor wires, you don't even need a PCV to use the WB2 to receive data. If you have a PCV, you can use WB2 to tune AFR just like you would with AutoTune plus the data channels you receive are more configurable with a data logging device.
1. The location of the Auto Tune O2 sensor could effect the reliability of your exhaust sampling. Many suppliers of aftermarket exhaust systems will weld the bung in for you. It would be a good idea to be certain the location is far enough from the engine to allow for sampling an even mixture of exhaust gasses from all cylinders. On the other hand, exhaust samples that are taken farther from the engine will be cooler and possibly be disrupted by muffler reverberations. There are varying opinions on the best location for O2 sensors. The LH side of the exhaust will provide the best location to keep the sensor concealed and prevent it from protruding to the side of the bike.
O2 sensors have been known to require replacement because of rust. It is always important to position an o2 sensor bung a minimum of 10 above horizontal. This will help prevent moisture from settling in the sensor and damaging it. Before mounting the bung at the angle and position you prefer, be sure the sensor that protrudes outside of the pipe will clear all surrounding parts.
View of my O2 sensor bung from the LH side of the bike. My exhaust is a 4 into 2 into 1. The location of the O2 sensor is sampling exhaust mostly from cylinders 1 and 2. I may relocate the sensor a few inches downstream in the future and if possible right on top of the pipe to get dead center on the flow from all cylinders.
2. There are a number of switched 12v power sources and ground locations that may be used for the Auto Tune module. Depending on the power and ground source, different types of contacts may be attached to the power and ground wire of the module. The rear brake light connector is right under the seat. It is a convenient source of power and ground for an underseat install of Auto Tune provided the rear brake light lead is disconected. The power and ground wires may be trimmed shorter if desired. Attach appropriate electrical contacts to the ends of the black and red wire housed in the stiff plastic tube that comes off of the Auto Tune module.
Normally, the rear brake light leads are not connected if the rear fender has been removed (see DIYRear Fender Removal and DIY Fender Eliminator =CE80FE5C-D56B-84E2-151AB9DA30FE0878 ). I was able to find some very small crimp on electrical contacts from my local motorcycle dealership. Similar contacts can be purchased at Radio Shak or a hardware store but you will probably need to use some emery paper and a file to make them small and thin enough to fit the female contacts of the rear brake light lead.
3. Connect the CAN cable supplied with your Auto Tune kit to either of the ports on the Auto Tune Module. Insert the small plastic CAN cable terminator plug into the other port of the Auto Tune module. The terminator plug must be inserted in the open port in order for the module to function.
7. The O2 sensor harness leads are tucked in front of the shift lever.
The O2 sensor harness leads are secured to the water pump with a zip tie.
The O2 sensor wire is secured with a zip tie to the frame near the sensor.
8. Remove the tape from the wires at the free end of the O2 sensor harness. Use a straight slot micro screwdriver to attach the wires from the O2 sensor harness to the appropriate holes in the Auto Tune module as shown. With the module turned over and the connector holes pointed at you the order from left to right is: Blue, Red, Yellow, Black, Grey, White.
If these wires do not seem to go in as far as they should, flatten the tinned ends by squeezing with a needle nose pliers so the ends will pass under the screws.
9. Secure the Auto Tune module with self adhesive backed velcro and connect the CAN cable to either port of the PCV. The open port on the PCV must have a terminator plug inserted into it in order for the modules to function properly.
10. The power/ground wire tube should be routed to the location of the rear brake light (or wherever you plan to connect these wires). I coiled mine up and placed it under the ECU to avoid the need to cut it shorter.
Input at least 120.000 seconds in the Minimum Run Time box to avoid trims made immediately after the engine starts. It is doubtful you would check trims until the engine has been thoroughly warmed up, anyway.
I suggest you deselect this box when you first start using Auto Tune. When you become familiar with Auto Tune and your engine, you may wish to prevent Auto Tune from making trims until the engine has reached a certain temperature.
If this function is used without much experience with Auto Tune, I would set the Minimum Temp to no more than 100. Operating temperature could vary according to ambient temperature and other factors. Setting Minimum Temp too close to optimum operating temperature may be confusing if you do not actually know what that temperature is. Again, you will always be warming your bike thoroughly before checking trims so the minimum temperature is not that relevant.
I suggest that you keep your maximum and minimum trims very small until you become more familiar with Auto Tune. You may need to do many more tuning runs to achieve your optimum AFR but accepting small trims will be safer than accepting large trims.
Unless you have a special setup, this should be 1
Click OK to accept the present data entered in the Auto Tune Configuration box or click Cancel to close the window without changes.
I have Vegas Pro 20 w/ Windows 11. Today I installed Antares AutoTune Pro X 10. Any ideas why it's not showing up in the effects folder? I also installed the Antares AVOX Bundle and it is showing up in the VST folder as it should- but no Autotune program. Any ideas? TIA!!
Harry-worth. I don't have a Steinberg folder. In preferences I tried to rescan the c drive for any VST pluggins. Big mistake. It got stuck at 50% of the scan. it would move about 1% every two minutes. Finally got to 99% and stayed there. Then when I tried to restart Vegas it would get stuck at the same 50% when doing the normal scan for VST when I start the Vegas program. I had to restore windows to an earlier point to get Vegas to start. Now I'm afraid to have it scan for VST's. My older version of Vegas 12 was excellent and worked perfect with Autotune 7. Why do software developers have to improve things just to make things worse?
BTW, my other VST3 plugins (Ozone) work just fine. I don't know why Autotune is seemingly not compatible. Apparently Harry-worth got Autotune to load- I'm jealous! That means it will work! My Autotune is in the Common Files folder- same place as the Ozone files- it just refuses to load.
My original system had Two O2 sensors and the new system now has one. I would like to confirm that it is correct that I unplug and remove both O2 sensors and install the wide band O2 sensor and plug it into the left side plug leaving the right plug empty. Can you please confirm this is correct.
After installing and riding the bike I get an engine light for code p0132. I'm assuming this is because the right side O2 sensor is missing. Is there more instructions on what needs to be changed in the map to stop this code. Is it correct to just uncheck P0132 for the ECU diagnostics. I assumed the map Graves supplied me would be set correct for my set up but not so. How can I also confirm the active tune is even working. When reading the ECU after riding can you see the new adjusted fuel map or is this only if you use the monitor and save a new base map live?
From your answer and the video I'm still unsure how to view any corrections made by active tune. I only have a bench tune kit and do not have the bike side harness or a dyno to pre-tune. I understand the active tune will take much longer to tune when the map is not dyno tuned and re-flashed to be closer but I started with the Grave Map and just wish to confirm it is adjusting. After viewing the monitor trim values reading from the ECU after riding it just shows all zeros to both the TPS and MAP default trims? I apologize if I'm missing something obvious. Where does the active tune store it's corrections and can they be viewed.
Didn't realize you are using a bench harness. You cannot see any trims with the bench harness because once the ECU is powered off it loses the trim values. It wont take long for the ActiveTune to tune itself when riding though. It is nice to save the changes to your base map and get closer and closer but it's not necessary.
Also if you are using a Graves file you cannot make fueling changes to that file. So you are not able to apply trim values to the base map. Now it will still correct and apply them when riding but you cannot permanently put them in the base map. Hope that makes sense.
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