Beldenby HAVEPro Triax Cables. Hand-assembled with flexible 20 AWG solid copper conductor Belden 1856A cable and total quality Canare Tri-K Pro Triax connectors that operate at frequencies up to 2.0 GHz.
All of our Belden Triax assemblies are great for field deployable digital camera applications, DC Power to Camera applications, Teleprompter or monitoring feeds, and Robotics. Perfect for HD up to 100 FT, Digital up to 250 FT, and Rugged analog applications up to 500 FT.
I just got a pc with Gigabyte rx 7700 xt 12 gb (OC) gpu and the PCU in the case only has one PCIe cable fit for the gpu. It has 2x 6+2 connectors but its on the same cable the second is its tail. I saw some people saying that you should always use seperate pcie cables for each 8pin connections on the gpu but other than buying a new pcu I don't see any other option but to use it as is. Do you think its absolutely imperative that I use 2 seperate cables and to that end should get a new psu with more cables or is it ok to just keep using it like that. My system has :
Daisy-chaining cables like that is considered suboptimal but for a GPU like yours it is fine. It can potentially be an issue with more powerhungry hardware so I wouldn't connect a 4090 or a 3090 like that but a 7700XT should be perfectly fine.
So, really, I'd say you're fine as it is and getting a new PSU would only be needed if you plan on doing some heavy overclocking (daisy-chain might cause issues like instability, potentially) or if it just really bothers you. But the GPU will work fine as it is and you won't really see any performance differences.
Hondata only sells adapter harness with the modified ECU. An unmodified 02-04 ECU with adapter harness (with or without KPro) will not work on a 05-06 RSX without the internal ECU modifications performed by Hondata.
The 05-06 K-Pro is only certified to work in an 05/06 RSX. Engine swaps using an 05-06 RSX engine and gearbox into another chassis are not supported with the 05/06 K-Pro and adapter harness.
The K-Pro ECU is a specially modified 2002 to 2004 Honda ECU with a USB interface to a notebook PC running Windows. It is currently available for the standard shift Acura RSX base model and Type-S, the US Civic Si and the Euro Civic Type R. K-Pro ECU Manager software allows the setting of cam angle, ignition advance, fuel, and a variety of other aspects. The purpose of the K-Pro ECU is to fine-tune the Honda ECU for best possible engine performance under various operating conditions and with various engine configurations. It also allows you to disable the immobilizer which is particularly important to those people performing engine swaps.
The modified ECU with a big Hondata sticker on it. K-Pro Manager software. Installation instructions. A six-foot USB cable 2 silver Hondata stickers. The modifications included installation of a 1.75 x 4.5-inch Hondata-branded daughterboard. This required soldering a couple of connectors onto the motherboard. I analyzed the daughterboard because I was curious as to what it does. The two main chips on it are: In addition, Hondata made a small cutout in the rear wall of the ECU housing to accommodate a standard USB connector.
As is usually the case with USB peripherals, the USB driver must be installed before the ECU is plugged in for the first time. After that, the ECU can be connected to the computer even if it is not in the car. The PC will then recognize it and install the proper driver. When it first came back, I simply connected the K-Pro ECU to my notebook and installed the USB driver. Then I put it back into its mounting bracket in the passenger footwell of the car and reconnected the various cables.
Very nice texture cable. I bought both this one in purple and the blue regular one. both has the usb to usb-c adaptors.
quality wise, this premium one is better in quality. is it worth an extra 10, i don't think so.
overall, this one looks a lot better in pictures, and the regular coiled cable also from keychron looks a lot worse in the pictures.
this sets the expectation of this premium version a lot higher than the regular non premium version.
reality is the regular non premium one is a lot nicer than it looks in its pictures and this is one is not as nice as it looks in pictures.
KnuKonceptz Bassik Power Wire is simply that, a no frills, true American Wire Gauge spec cable. KnuKonceptz continues its pledge to manufacture cables that meet industry and globally recognized specifications.
Made from large strand Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA), our Bassik Power wire is our budget friendly cable designed for lower powered applications, all while maintaining AMERICAN WIRE GAUGE STANDARDS. Using larger strands helps reduce production time, which helps us lower the over all cost of the Bassik Power Wire. These savings are passed onto our customers.
Rated in Amps, Not Watts: Here at KnuKonceptz, you will not find a random watt rating on our packaging or plastered across the main product image. No, we rate our kits the same way electricians rate the wiring in your home, in amps, by following industry standards.
OFC stands for Oxygen Free Copper, it is the most common conductor used in mobile audio at the moment. Copper is increasing in cost though and Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) has continued to grow in popularity. KnuKonceptz was an early adopter to CCA as we saw that when used properly, CCA would make a cost effective alternative to OFC. The main difference is CCA is less conductive then OFC, so by lowering the load on the cable, you can use CCA at a cost savings. Some applications of CCA may require a larger gauge.
Has this been done? I found a company in the UK that claims to offer a kit. It seems one negative would be that you would have to let the throttle move within your hand when the solenoid blips the throttle.
This seems like 10000x more trouble/risk/money than it is worth. You would have to have some kind of actuator that pulls the cable for you. Seems VERY odd. Sure, anything is possible with enough money, but if this is something you really need, I feel you either need to just practice or get a new ride-by-wire bike.
I am not sure, but for me it is or must be muscle memory, I do not pay much attention to the mechanics. Maybe a slipper would be a better application for you. I would be very skeptical of any product that actuates anything that takes control of my bikes components. Like Cruise control in my car, man, they never told me NOT to take a nap when I turned it on.
I worked with race cars that did these; it is fairly commonly done when they are running sequential dogboxes. They would use a pneumatic actuator to "kick" the throttle quadrant with varying levels of accuracy. It can absolutely be done, but it can also be an absolute nightmare. Rev-matching is only worthwhile when it is close, otherwise it is as bad or worse than when omitted. There have been some very good tidbits on here about how to manually do it smoothly, and that has helped me a lot. Namely, focus on keeping your right hand's "C" shape constant underbraking and rotate it (allowing the fingers to slide on the brake lever) so I'd exhaust those resources first before committing to an additional gadget
Have a buddy with a C7 Corvette (damn, what a freeking nice car) . It auto-blips the throttle with downshifts. It's really cool, but still takes some getting used to coordinate the shift with what the computer wants to do. Shift too slow and it doesn't go that well. The one time I drove the beast, i got it wrong a bunch.
Speaking of askew body parts - the old R-bikes had footpegs that were equidistant to the cylinder in front of them. As the cylinders were offset front to back by the same distance that the crank arms were offset, one foot was always further forward than the other. After riding 2 of those old R-heads over 2 decades, it took a long time to get used to having my feet in the same plane when the offset was gone.
I swapped to the R6 throttle in order to cure my rev matching affliction. Works just fine. I had the muscle memory but there's just too much twist to the stock throttle drum to make rev matching work easily.
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